Question for VFR riders/board surfers

[Jack Giesecke]

I'm working on a VFR750, 96. Guy has a fried regulator/rectifier. Fiche says $197! :eek: None on ebay right now. Guy's going to have to suck it up I guess. It got so hot it melted and burned the plastic at the stator leads on the plug. The stator tests fine and the stator plug looks fine. I'm just hoping it didn't damage the stator.

My customer tells me these rectifier/regulators "never have problems", or he was told that by the local Honda shop. Well, this one has! :lol: Has anyone with a veefer had a regulator/rectifier short out? I think it's probably a diode gone bad the way two of the leads to the stator got blackened.

[Rocket_Cowboy]

Friend just had is 98 VFR over in my garage with the same problem. Everyone I've talked to who has worked on Honda's say the late 90's VFR is notorious for poppin those things. Granted, there's alot of difference between 95 and 98, but the problem sounds identical to me.

[Jack Giesecke]

Friend just had is 98 VFR over in my garage with the same problem. Everyone I've talked to who has worked on Honda's say the late 90's VFR is notorious for poppin those things. Granted, there's alot of difference between 95 and 98, but the problem sounds identical to me.

Thanks. This one's a 96 with 10K showing. I kinda thought there might be a track record with it. :-D Now, I can talk to my customer and assure him the Honda shop was filling him with BS, LOL.

[bdmpastx]

My Honda 900rr, Which probably used the same RR would burn the connectors...So I cut the plugs and soldered the wires together. It fixed the problem. The connections were bad and had high resistance causing them to heat up and eventually allowed the battery to drain. Also, there are sever a f4 riders out there having issues with the RR...

[Jack Giesecke]

My Honda 900rr, Which probably used the same RR would burn the connectors...So I cut the plugs and soldered the wires together. It fixed the problem. The connections were bad and had high resistance causing them to heat up and eventually allowed the battery to drain. Also, there are sever a f4 riders out there having issues with the RR...

Thanks. I'm definitely going to have to fix that gang plug for him, all black and the contacts will have to be replaced if nothing else. It only fried two of the leads from the stator, why I think probably a diode blew. I'll suggest to him I might solder the leads, but was thinking just installing new female spades. If I spend time soldering, it'll take longer and time is money. Think he's planning on selling the bike. If it were mine, though, that's exactly what I'd do. I think probably putting female spades on it and dropping a bit of solder properly fluxed, at least on the stator leads, would work well to keep the resistance at the connector down.

[Tourmeister]

Do you have a battery tester? Often when the R/R goes, it will fry the battery in the process. You can find out more than you ever wanted to know about VFR's and RR's here:

http://www.cs.wisc.edu/~john/vfr-list/

Advice from a guy named Bruce in Tucson should be heeded. He's pretty much a guru on the VFR's.

Adios,

[Jack Giesecke]

Come to think of it, he did mention he'd put a couple of batteries in it that didn't last long. If a diode breaks down, could send AC current to the battery I reckon. Might be what's going on there. Hope it didn't damage my Wing battery. I used it to start the thing yesterday, LOL. But, I rode the Wing around today so I guess it's okay, started fine.

[mrcleanvfr]

I got my R/R through Dynamohumm for around $147.00 US (160 CDN?)

Paul

"96 VFR "Titanium"

[brd]

My customer tells me these rectifier/regulators "never have problems", or he was told that by the local Honda shop. Well, this one has! :lol: Has anyone with a veefer had a regulator/rectifier short out? I think it's probably a diode gone bad the way two of the leads to the stator got blackened.

Whoever told your customer that knows ZIP about VFRs. They are notorious for having bad reg/rects. :roll:

Get a new one from www.dynamohumm.com as someone suggested. The new part is different (has cooling fins on it), whereas the old one was just a solid block.

Mine crapped out at 10k miles and killed my battery. I put the new one from dynamohumm in with a new battery and it's still going good 15 months and 17k miles later.

[HiSPL]

Its also a good idea to run a ground fom the R/R case to the -'ve battery terminal. Same for the fuse block. I have four different (extra) grounds on my zook. The old GS's have a rep for bad electrics. Mine is doing just fine with the stock R/R and stator. Must be all the grounds 8-)