QUOTE=[ST/SV]Just installed my Christmas present on my Suzuki SV 1000. It has been running ratty since I installed a couple of Leo Vince slip-ons a few months back. Of course its misting rain now so I don't want to take her out for a spin since she is nice and clean from a recent bath.
Instructions said 15 min install, yea right. Took me a couple hrs. since I don't have itty bitty hands to get into the tight spots to unplug connectors to plug in the unit.
Just curious if anyone else has tried one of these and the results of it.
Happy Holidays, Larry[/QUOTE]
A PC just gives you the advantage of re-mapping the A/F ratio curve. If the AF ratio is optimal without a PC then it will provide 0 advantage (it provides no majical HP gains if your bike is running optimal). On the other hand if your fuel delivery for a given PRM is not optimal then you can identify it using a dyno and correct it by using a PC and get a better running bike with HP gains to boot.
Now in your case, after adding the pipes the bike seems to be NOT running optimal. In this case the best way to set a baseline is to dyno it as it is and look at the A/F ratio curve then connect the PC (the pre-loaded free map will get you close to the ballpark but will not be optimal). The ideal ratio will be marked on your A/F graph (12.8:1-14.7:1) for your bike, if your ratio is above or below the ideal then you can add or subtract 5%-20% fuel for that given PRM (based on the deviation magnitude from optimal) using a laptop to add or subtract the fuel values for that map. It takes 2-3 dyno runs to make it close to optimal. Also called a custom map. A good shop will let you dyno for $20 and throw in the next 1-2 runs (after re-mapping) for free or a small $$ amount whereas some shops will not let you bring your own laptop and tinker + charge you exorbitants amounts. Best to call ahead and check. Adding 10% fuel at the zero throttle setting will make nice flames come outa the pipes when chopping throttle
I put a Yosh pipe on my 02 R1 back then and did not like the response, dyno run showed it to be far from optimal at 2-3 areas in the mid range + WOT. I had my laptop with me and pencilled in changes on the A/F ratio graph, next altered the fuel for those RPM ranges, the shop let me run it again for free and got a 5HP overall gain over the first run + a much smoother A/F graph (Motion Cyclesports Dallas).
BTW who is giving the best deals on PCs these days? I need to get one to re-map the low end on my nu R1.