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I'm WiReD!

Squeaky

2
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Joined
Mar 6, 2004
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Location
Plantersville
First Name
Rebecca
Last Name
Reed
First, this is the reason my horn wasn't making horn noises when pressing the horn button. Go figure. At least Ana (anaconda) has small enough hands to get in there and re-clip it into place. ;-)

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I positioned the fuse block in the lower section of my under-seat pan with space all around for the connectors. In this pic, you can see my "old" wiring system - an in-line fuse hooked directly to the battery, attached with zip ties to the front of the pan. I had an SAE acessory plug (trailer hitch plug) on the end of it so I could adapt miscellaneous things to it (battery tender, GPS, Chatterbox).

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I used a connector clip to tap into the thick orange wire here, which we confirmed is switched. We used this for the relay to keep the entire block switched. Yes, I would inevitably kill the battery leaving things on without it.

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Wire placement starting. I ran all three sets of lines up to the front of the bike, using one for heated grips with a switch and two for accessory SAE plugs (GPS and XM/Chatterbox). Most people hardwire their accessories, but I like the plugs because they're sturdy and allow me to remove all the gadgets and mountings for track days and major maintenance.

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Power, ground (direct to battery) and relay lines were brought into the pan from one side and the individual fused lines left the box from the opposit side.

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A close-up of the tap for the relay. This was kept in the space between the battery and the pan, with the relay itself mounted inside the pan with the block.

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Other than the tap, all of the connections were soldered and heat-shrink tubing encased it all.

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Next up was heated grips. I followed Ana's lead and wrapped the Symtec heating elements around the grips, then covered them with the extra pair of Grip Puppies she had.

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I located the small rocker switch for the grips right below the bars on the left fairing trim. I bet you can imagine how many sets of eyes were on me as the drill was placed in my hands and I began to make a hole in my bike. :trust:

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I think there's more zip ties on my bike now than most race bikes :lol2:

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These folks were there to watch/help/ridicule during the process, as well as work on wiring things on/to/with their own bikes.

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This guy likes to make fun of me for anything and everything, but he does it because he cares. Well, at least that's what they keep telling me. ;-)

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Woohoo! We're done! :rider:

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Oohh. w-i-r-e-d. I thought the title said weird. To which most would reply: "yeah, and so?" ;-)

nice setup. no more chilly fingers.
 
Nothin' like a gal who knows her way around a soldering iron!
 
Thanks for the write-up and the pics. Great job. I'm thinking of doing something similar as a winter project.
 
Nice job! I am thinking about doing this on the KLR along with instaling a higher output stator so I can run more accessories.

1. Was was the purpose for your project, other than streamlining the wiring for accessories, to tie in to a hot lead that is switched so when you turn off the ignition switch your accessories are dead?

2. Why the new relay next to the block?

3. Is the terminal block fused?

4. Are all your accessories independantly fuses with line fuses?

Thanks
 
Oohh. w-i-r-e-d. I thought the title said weird. To which most would reply: "yeah, and so?" ;-)

nice setup. no more chilly fingers.

weird that you would need heated grips in Houston!

I am impressed, as an electronics technician, that you soldered and heat shrinked the connections. Nice wire loom, tie wrapped. :phead:
Did you leave an outlet for your heated riding gear?
 
1. Was was the purpose for your project, other than streamlining the wiring for accessories, to tie in to a hot lead that is switched so when you turn off the ignition switch your accessories are dead?

My original fused line directly off the battery was for my GPS, then I made a Y-splitter when I added the Chatterbox in the Spring. When I started getting a fourth and fifth gadget to connect, an aux fuse block just made sense.

2. Why the new relay next to the block?

That's to keep it switched so I don't drain the battery by leaving something on.

3. Is the terminal block fused?

That was an option (using the existing in-line fuse to bring power to the whole block) but I was told that it was unnecessary for my application.

4. Are all your accessories independantly fuses with line fuses?

It's just the fuses in the block itself. One of the lines to the front will be shared between the Chatterbox and XM radio (when I get it working) since they will both live in/on my tank bag, leaving just one line to connect when I mount up.

weird that you would need heated grips in Houston!

I am impressed, as an electronics technician, that you soldered and heat shrinked the connections. Nice wire loom, tie wrapped. :phead:
Did you leave an outlet for your heated riding gear?

I have three more leads off the block that are open, and heated gear is a thought but not in the near future. I wear summer-weight gloves year round, so the grips will help when it starts to get chilly. I used them a few times in Big Bend this past weekend, and that added heat on the hands meant not having to stop and don the jacket liner when the temp was borderline chilly.

On the connections - if I don't solder and heat shrink on my bike, something is likely going to shake loose in the future. It just happens. :doh:
 
Oohh. w-i-r-e-d. I thought the title said weird. To which most would reply: "yeah, and so?" ;-)

nice setup. no more chilly fingers.

That was my first reaction.
 
On the connections - if I don't solder and heat shrink on my bike, something is likely going to shake loose in the future.
What kind of solder did you use? Any special technique to soldering the wires together? (I've soldered electrical components to boards but not wires together hanging in the air.)
 
What kind of solder did you use? Any special technique to soldering the wires together? (I've soldered electrical components to boards but not wires together hanging in the air.)

Bill didn't want me messing anything up so I was only *permitted* to use his soldering equipment on a few of my add-on wires. I had learned how to solder back in high school art (we did small metal sculptures) but it was Bill's equipment so I had to play by the rules). What I learned was that fanning out the wire ends and then twisting them together made for a less bulky connection point once it was done.

Bill also used the "load 'er up" technique - twist each of the ends on their own to smooth it out, load one up with solder, then put them together and heat them both so that the solder ran over to the second wire.

The hardest part for me was not getting the wires so hot during the soldering that the heat shrink waiting an inch or two down doesn't shrink itself out of place before you're ready.
 
Do you have an SAE plug for you Slime air compressor?

I rigged my Slime air compressor to adapt and plug into the electrical receptical for my heated vest on the GoldWing. We used the compressor on our trip to Arkansas two weeks ago to repair a flat on my buddy's VTX. We would have been up the creek withput it. The Slime uses a standard 10 amp SAE connector.

I used the compressor to air up my air mattress, although I have since bought a Coleman high volume air mattress compressor that runs on 4 D batteries.
 
Goor write-up. I need to get started on one for my mods. Oh, and I finally installed the Stebel horn... :trust:
 
Do you have an SAE plug for you Slime air compressor?

I don't have one. I use compressed air cartridges to re-inflate.

I just got one question. What's with all this "I" crap?????? LOL;-)

Hey now, I did a lot of stuff on the bike. Yes, you were a big help and I couldn't have done it without you - now why didn't you finish troubleshooting the you-know-whats this weekend? :giveup:
 
Why don't you two stop arguing and get to work on that Big Bend report? huh?






:duck:
 
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