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rhenriksen
11-18-2007, 10:10 PM
Hopefully this'll seed a dedicated thread to one of the most talked about mods.

I finally got around to installing the Bikemaster Daytona bars on my 1250. I cut a 1/2" off each end with a pipe cutter, and used a round file to clean up the inside of the cut. Elected to trim off the pegs from the inside of the controls rather than have to drill the bar for that locating peg; wanted more flexibility in locating the controls, both in rotation and in/out from the center of the bike. The controls are apt to spin fairly easily now, even with the screws torqued down; I'll probably put some painter's tape on the bar underneath the controls to help them grip. Oh, the same round file (double cut) worked well to remove the pegs - though without a vise to hold the plastic piece it would have been trickier.

The left grip wasn't as hard to remove as I'd read about. Used the long thin screwdriver technique to break it loose (before removing the bar from the triple clamp!)

I'd never removed bar ends before, but it does look like *not* unscrewing the screw completely is a Better Way to Go. Wasn't sure at first whether it'd be easy to retrieve the interior bit of the assembly from inside the bar.

All in all, a no-brainer for the $20. I'd prefer another few degrees of rotation, though (pinky lower, thumb higher).

mrpesas
11-18-2007, 10:24 PM
Pics?

rhenriksen
11-18-2007, 10:41 PM
There are one or two buried in the monster thread. To be honest, the angle difference between the two doesn't look like all that much. My wrists do feel an improvement, though. I didn't think I'd be able to take any pictures that really shed much light on the difference.

camperjohn
11-19-2007, 03:09 PM
Post pics anyway... ;-)

rhenriksen
11-19-2007, 08:00 PM
You know, it's weird: the handlebar change made my shifts smoother!

I rotated the clutch lever down some below stock when I swapped bars. Today I was clicking off upshifts like a DSG gearbox. Amazing how much difference it made.

camperjohn
11-19-2007, 11:09 PM
But it is also preventing you from uploading pics. Hmm... strange.

PhilS
11-20-2007, 04:47 PM
I did it - here's my pics:

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z62/stearnsp/BikeMasterDaytonaHandleBar001.jpg

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z62/stearnsp/BikeMasterDaytonaHandleBar004.jpg

It made a big difference for my wrists. Now they make contact across the palm and not only on the outside edge.

Cheap mod - $20.

Willie
11-20-2007, 06:09 PM
Nice Phil, did you also cut down the ends of the Daytonas??

PhilS
11-20-2007, 06:12 PM
Nice Phil, did you also cut down the ends of the Daytonas??


Yep - maybe 1/2". I also measured the factory alignment holes for the switch pods from the end and drilled those as well - see below.

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z62/stearnsp/BikeMasterDaytonaHandleBar003.jpg

Willie
11-20-2007, 06:28 PM
Thanks! Winter project. Oh, winter is here.

camperjohn
11-30-2007, 12:14 PM
Are these handlebars lower? Do they make you lean over more like a sportbike?

I am interested in lowering my handlebars closer to the front like a sportbike. The bandit sits really high for me, and even though I did lower my handlebars a bit last night, I would be interested in ones that make it 3 inches or more bent over.

Suggestions anyone?

treybrad
11-30-2007, 03:44 PM
Are these handlebars lower? Do they make you lean over more like a sportbike?

I am interested in lowering my handlebars closer to the front like a sportbike. The bandit sits really high for me, and even though I did lower my handlebars a bit last night, I would be interested in ones that make it 3 inches or more bent over.

Suggestions anyone?

http://www.bikebandit.com/product/A4758821

$15 - They're the black bars on the bottom. Pretty much completely flat, no rise or pull back to speak of. Had them on my SV and thought they were fine. A little tiresome around town, but at highway speeds, on a naked bike, the wind kept the weight off your wrists pretty well.

I think they'd be pretty extreme for the Bandit, when you're that low, even the stock windscreen is going to keep all the wind off of you and it'll be annoying with that much weight on your wrists. Add a pillion and it gets twice as bad b/c they're leaning forward to hang onto you. YMMV.

But, for $15, it's hard to go wrong. Bikemaster has a whole bunch of different bends, get whatever you think is what you're after. For $15 they really transformed the SV.

Here's some links to pics, mine's the blue naked (not 56k friendly at all...):

https://webspace.utexas.edu/treybrad/www/SVRider/ride%20015.jpg

https://webspace.utexas.edu/treybrad/www/SVRider/ride%20011.jpg

https://webspace.utexas.edu/treybrad/www/SVRider/ride%20006.jpg

trey

camperjohn
12-02-2007, 07:33 PM
Has anyone tried or considered turning the handlebars upside down?

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/4785/img1202km1.gif

GregH
12-03-2007, 01:10 PM
It would just be too freaky!:angryfire :flip:

camperjohn
12-03-2007, 01:22 PM
It would just be too freaky!:angryfire :flip:

No it wouldn't. I am checking it out thinking it would make it like a sports bike how the bars are lower rather than really tall.

I am going to get some different bars for my bike - probably straight, but they way the current bars are, I think lower could also work.

When I get my new bars, I will install my current bars upside-down before I install the new bars and see how they work. Then send photos.

Then I will say "that was a dumb idea" and install my new bars.

Squeaky
12-03-2007, 01:24 PM
Upside down might give issues with clearance I'd think - would you be able to go full lock left and right with them that low, or would they hit the tank/fairing?

camperjohn
12-03-2007, 01:29 PM
Upside down might give issues with clearance I'd think - would you be able to go full lock left and right with them that low, or would they hit the tank/fairing?

Yes you're right - I guess that was what I was really asking. "Has anyone tried turning them upside down (think flipping left right so they are still pointing towards you), and had it work?"

I am looking at it thinking it would be close and could hit, but don't know until I have tried it.

This weekend I did turn my bars a bit towards me to make them lower, but my thumb is really close to the tank. So I will buy the straight bars and install those so I can get lower while still having good clearance. I want a lower riding position.

GregH
12-03-2007, 01:54 PM
I am checking it out thinking it would make it like a sports bike...
Do we have a budding hooligan in our midst? :rider:

I believe the Bandit could be made into a deceptively agile sports bike.

camperjohn
12-19-2007, 01:17 AM
How did you get your handlegrips off? Or did you just buy new ones for the new handlebars?

I cant get the original left handlegrip off to put it on the new bars.

rhenriksen
12-19-2007, 07:44 AM
Long, #1 philllips screwdriver. Wiggle it under the grip. I'd get it ~1" in, and then rotate it around the perimeter of the bar. Go another inch in, repeat.

MetrickMetal
12-19-2007, 09:15 AM
Do the Daytona bars have less sweep back than the stock bars, and how does the rise of them compare to the the stock bars?

camperjohn
12-19-2007, 10:06 AM
Thanks. I got it off and installed my new handlebars - but they don't fit. I will send pics why.

When turning to the left or right full on, it misses the tank on the near side, but the brake or clutch lever hits the fairings on the front side. So I will have to re-install the original bars. I don't think I will try again with a different set of bars.

PhilS
12-19-2007, 10:09 AM
What aftermarket bars did you install?

MetrickMetal
12-19-2007, 10:31 AM
Well per PhilS's feedback, I just ordered up a set of the Daytona handle bars from ridenow.com for a total of $22.95 shipped.

These bars have less sweep back then the stock bars, and thats exactly what I was looking for, and I can't wait to get them and try em out.

It looks like they are shipping out of their Tempe AZ. warehouse, so hopefully I will get them before Christmas. :thumb:

theopj
12-19-2007, 11:02 AM
Fitted Renthal Bars to mine (their Low's or Ultra lows). Same sort of height as the stockers, just less angled. Much better.

Only problem is that have just added the Vstorm HandGuards for the winter, and I had to trim them down quite a bit as I couldn't get full lock when turning - and couldn't lock the bike either - got it sorted now though.

Willie
12-19-2007, 01:54 PM
Well per PhilS's feedback, I just ordered up a set of the Daytona handle bars from ridenow.com for a total of $22.95 shipped.

These bars have less sweep back then the stock bars, and thats exactly what I was looking for, and I can't wait to get them and try em out.

It looks like they are shipping out of their Tempe AZ. warehouse, so hopefully I will get them before Christmas. :thumb:

Put the Daytonas on my 1250. Only problem, it snowed and hasn't gone away!! No chance to go for a ride and feel the difference, but when I sit on it in the shop and make the motorcycle noise, "VROOOOM", they feel a lot better!

MetrickMetal
12-19-2007, 02:46 PM
Put the Daytonas on my 1250. Only problem, it snowed and hasn't gone away!! No chance to go for a ride and feel the difference, but when I sit on it in the shop and make the motorcycle noise, "VROOOOM", they feel a lot better!

Hi Willie,

Well we have no snow down here in the high desert of Lancaster CA, as we are still having pretty nice, but cold weather here.

I can't wait to try out these bars when I get them, and if they end up doing what I'm looking for, which by the pictures that PhilS posted up, looks like they will, then their cost of only $22.95 makes it all that much sweeter, as you can't beat the price. ;)

Willie
12-19-2007, 08:13 PM
"but cold weather here".


I think that I once froze to death at Willow Springs at a race in February!! But it was a "Dry" cold!!!

Maybe we can meet in April. I'll be down on the Bandit for the AHRMA races at Willow. I met Joe there last year.
Willie

MetrickMetal
12-19-2007, 08:16 PM
I think that I once froze to death at Willow Springs at a race in February!! But it was a "Dry" cold!!!

Maybe we can meet in April. I'll be down on the Bandit for the AHRMA races at Willow. I met Joe there last year.
Willie

Sounds good, as I only live about 20 miles from Willow Springs.

Willie
12-19-2007, 08:21 PM
Just hope the weather is a little cooler this coming April! I about died this year. It got to 103 sitting under the awnings!! This Calif. born boy has lost his tolerance for heat!!!

MetrickMetal
12-19-2007, 09:12 PM
Just hope the weather is a little cooler this coming April! I about died this year. It got to 103 sitting under the awnings!! This Calif. born boy has lost his tolerance for heat!!!

I see your a member of the IBA. What types of rides have you done, as I have ridden 3 Saddle Sore 1000's, but I only officially regestered one of them.

Willie
12-20-2007, 06:10 AM
I see your a member of the IBA. What types of rides have you done, as I have ridden 3 Saddle Sore 1000's, but I only officially regestered one of them.

I've only done one, SS1000 Aug of 2006. Finally got my number yesterday. Still waiting for the "Fluff" (plate backer, etc...) Got inspired after a 700+ mile day on my BMW R1100S on the way back from Calif in April of '06. I got my 650 Vstrom in July of '06 after a friend and I decided to ride to the Arctic Circle in Alaska. While breaking-in and setting-up the Vstrom for the Alaska trip I decided to attempt an Iron Butt ride. Got a Sargent seat on the friday before the ride and on Monday did 1028 miles in 17 hr 10 min. Been wanting to go for a BB1500 or go real crazy and try a BBG1500 this Spring. Last riding season was pretty much consumed with preparing for, and going on the Alaska adventure.

MetrickMetal
12-26-2007, 11:25 AM
The Bikemaster Daytona bars that I ordered from ridenow.com, are scheduled to arrive this Friday, which I can't wait to get and install on my bike.

I also have a set of polished 15mm high billet riser spacers that I had machined up to try out with the stock bars, but since I have the new bars coming, I'll just wait and see how the new bars feel before trying out the spacers. I made them the same diameter as the risers, and with a stepped shoulder and recess, so when they are installed, they should blend in pretty seamlessly with my polished risers.

The forecast calls for rain on Friday here, so it will be a good day to install the bars and possibly the riser spacers on the bike. I have even drawn up a new one piece riser that moves the bars back up and back 1".


http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20071226/b/d/a/bda9aef79706d0aae1a12b7ebfac5e5d0_large.jpg

MetrickMetal
12-27-2007, 09:56 AM
How did you get your handlegrips off? Or did you just buy new ones for the new handlebars?

I cant get the original left handlegrip off to put it on the new bars.

The method I have been using, and it works great without damaging the grip, is I have a 1/2" wide, .035 thick x 12" long feeler gauge that I slide all the way in between the grip and the bar, then I wiggle and push the feeler gauge around the bar, breaking the glue bond.

After I have worked the feeler gauge completely around the bar, and before I remove the feeler gauge, I squirt a little isopropyl alchohol between the grip and the bar to help it slid off the bar easier.

The feeler gauge has a full radiused tip, so it doesn't cutt into the grip when you push it in, and the somewhat sharp edge on the side of the feeler gauge seems to break through the glue bond better, than the rounded surface of a screw driver blade can.

PhilS
12-27-2007, 10:40 AM
The stock grips are thin cheap rubber. Really nice gel grips that remove some of the Bandit Buzz run $10 to $20. Why are you trying to save the stock grips?

MetrickMetal
12-27-2007, 10:48 AM
The stock grips are thin cheap rubber. Really nice gel grips that remove some of the Bandit Buzz run $10 to $20. Why are you trying to save the stock grips?

Phil,

If your talking to me, no I am not going to reuse my stock grips, as I am picking up a set of gel grips at Cycle Gear to install with the new bars. I'm even going to get red ones to match my bike, and their $12.95. :rider:
http://www.cyclegear.com/images/17-8006DualClrBlkRed_410x193.jpg

PhilS
12-27-2007, 11:04 AM
Ooops - should have addressed it - sorry. I was actually asking CamperJohn.

I picked up the Superbike Gel Pro Grips from Dale Walker (www.holeshot.com) for $12 when I bought some other thingys. They look and feel great......at least to me.:sun:

Get this - stock handlebar from Suzuki - $84. R/L Stock grips from Suzuki - $31. :eek2: :eek2: :eek2:

Here's mine.

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z62/stearnsp/acc_pro_grips.jpg

MetrickMetal
12-27-2007, 09:45 PM
Ooops - should have addressed it - sorry. I was actually asking CamperJohn.

I picked up the Superbike Gel Pro Grips from Dale Walker (www.holeshot.com) for $12 when I bought some other thingys. They look and feel great......at least to me.:sun:

Get this - stock handlebar from Suzuki - $84. R/L Stock grips from Suzuki - $31. :eek2: :eek2: :eek2:

Here's mine.

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z62/stearnsp/acc_pro_grips.jpg

The ones I bought today are also made by Pro Grip, and have the same dual compound gel formula, but are just a differant style.

The Ferret
12-28-2007, 11:54 AM
The pro grips gel grips are really nice grips. I use the ones like Phil uses and love them (I think they are model 719 gel grips). Be aware that gel grips come in 2 different lengths and with and without the ends plugged.

I use comressed air for removing and installing grips.

MetrickMetal
12-28-2007, 10:37 PM
I just finished installing my new Daytona bars and my new gel grips, and just sitting on the bike, this is a big improvement over the stock bars and grips, and I also think that the new bars have a much nicer visual appearance than they stock bars, and I really like the new shape.

I took my time and installed the bars, clutch and brake reservoirs and switch housings, then made sure I had everything where I wanted, before marking the locations to drill the holes for the switch housing locating pins. The whole installation went very smoothly.

One thing I did find out though, is you really need to trim 1/2" off of each end of the bars, and mark the location of the switch housing locating pins accurately, otherwise the throttle cables could end up hitting the windshield when the bars are turned full lock.

I can't wait to take it out tomorrow for a test ride, and because they have less sweep back and are much flater than the stock bars, they diffinately give you more leverage, which I like very much. :thumb:

MetrickMetal
12-31-2007, 04:10 PM
Well, I just got back from visiting Suzukijo, and the two of us went on a a short loop out through the mountains and back around through the desert, and I ended riding about 70 miles, and I have to say that these new Daytona bars are great, as riding that distance with the stock bars, the outside edge of the palms of my hands would already be starting to get sore from the pressure against the ends of the bars, and now with the new bars, not even a hint of soreness.

As far as I am concerned, Its the best $22.95 you can spend on your bike. :rider:

PhilS
12-31-2007, 04:14 PM
+1 on that as well. I love the flat feel adn it looks just a bit better to me as well.

Did you happen to notice 1 extra hole in the stock bars versus the Daytona's? I assume you drilled the alignment holes for the right and left side switch packs - but I found one additional hole on the throttle side on the stock bar.

Did you?

MetrickMetal
12-31-2007, 04:22 PM
+1 on that as well. I love the flat feel adn it looks just a bit better to me as well.

Did you happen to notice 1 extra hole in the stock bars versus the Daytona's? I assume you drilled the alignment holes for the right and left side switch packs - but I found one additional hole on the throttle side on the stock bar.

Did you?

Yes, I did drill new holes for the switch housing locator pins, but that extra hole on the right end of the bars, got removed when I cut 1/2" off of each end of the bars.

PhilS
12-31-2007, 04:27 PM
I hear ya - I cut off about 1/2" as well on each end. These may also be universal bars from Suzuki or some other M/C that used additional holes - who knows, who cares. Here's where my pics are from my install - you can see that extra hole on the stock throttle top side......

http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?p=297901&highlight=daytona#post297901

Pecan7
03-02-2008, 07:44 PM
Has anyone tried any other bends than Bikemaster's Daytona bar? It's tough to read the bar measurement charts and get a good understanding of how the different options would feel on the bike.
I don't like the stock bars either, but just wondering if there are any other good choices. I'm even considering buying the Daytona bars and then putting a pair of Hunter Flat Bars on them....
Also, anyone tried Flanders bars? I'm curious why the Flanders bars cost 3x or 4x the Bikemaster bars.

bones
05-11-2008, 09:20 PM
Just ordered Daytonas. The more around town riding I do the more I hate the stock bend. Hope I can get the grip heaters transfered over without ruining them

commuter boy
05-11-2008, 10:37 PM
I just realized that the 650 Bandits have a different handlebar holder setup than the 1250's. Ours comes with a spacer plate that you can put under the triple tree or on top of it to move the bars up and back more.

Here's some pictures of the plate, and installed on top of the triple tree:

whitesands
05-12-2008, 12:32 AM
Hmmmmm....I wonder if those will fit on the 1250 ???

Thanks for the info!

whitesands
05-14-2008, 03:56 PM
The Bikemaster Daytona bars that I ordered from ridenow.com, are scheduled to arrive this Friday, which I can't wait to get and install on my bike.

I also have a set of polished 15mm high billet riser spacers that I had machined up to try out with the stock bars, but since I have the new bars coming, I'll just wait and see how the new bars feel before trying out the spacers. I made them the same diameter as the risers, and with a stepped shoulder and recess, so when they are installed, they should blend in pretty seamlessly with my polished risers.

The forecast calls for rain on Friday here, so it will be a good day to install the bars and possibly the riser spacers on the bike. I have even drawn up a new one piece riser that moves the bars back up and back 1".


http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20071226/b/d/a/bda9aef79706d0aae1a12b7ebfac5e5d0_large.jpg


Have you tried out the spacers yet ?

MetrickMetal
05-14-2008, 04:40 PM
Have you tried out the spacers yet ?

No I haven't as the Bikemaster Daytona bars are working great for me and I don't get any of the soreness in my ARMS like I did with the stock bars, but I my try them out here one day just for giggles. :rider:

whitesands
05-14-2008, 08:33 PM
nice! Sounds like good handlebars.

MetrickMetal
05-15-2008, 07:42 AM
nice! Sounds like good handlebars.

Their a great replacement handlebar and well worth the $22.95 including shipping and I highly recommend them if you do not like the shape of the stock bars.

I couldn't ride my 1250S more than 50 miles with the stock bars without my arms and wrists starting to hurt, but I've ridden close to 400 miles in one day with the Daytona bars with no pain at all.

I only wish I had gotten them in black instead of chrome, as I think they would look better, so I'm thinking of pulling them off this weekend and painting them with semi-gloss black engine enamel. :rider:

whitesands
05-15-2008, 04:55 PM
My problem is that I get a little cramp at the base of my neck between the shoulder blades....But it takes about 100 miles to start deeling unless its cold outside...My issue would be solved perhaps with just an inch up and back on the handlebars...It might be an issue of me being on the short side.

twist
05-16-2008, 12:25 PM
whitesands I had the same issue. I am using the rox risers (1" up and 1" back) and they made a noticeable improvement for me. They seem to work fine, they're strong and secure - kind of a pain to install and they blocked the underlying allen bolts somewhat.

My clutch line was a little too tight, so I took it out of the rubber 'holder' under the tank and removed the left chrome line securing dealy-bob from the handlebars.

New handlebars and new break/clutch lines is probably the "best" solution - but I'm cheap, lazy and not so mechanically inclined - this course of action worked for me :zen:

labandit
05-18-2008, 05:31 AM
anyone using Renthal mx bars on thiers? the european streetfighter version of the Bandit looked pretty cool,(with Renthal mx bars). i rode desert for awhile and came to like that fat/beefy look and comfy/stable hand position that mx bars have.

Rcdd
05-29-2008, 03:03 PM
anyone using Renthal mx bars on thiers? the european streetfighter version of the Bandit looked pretty cool,(with Renthal mx bars). i rode desert for awhile and came to like that fat/beefy look and comfy/stable hand position that mx bars have.


Was thinking along the same line......Road bars Renthal P/N 756-01 (Generic High)...Or the Quad bars Renthal P/N 677-01 (Suz Quad Racer)

Only concerned about having to drill the aluminium for the controls....Not a big fan of altering alum tubing....

I might just get the Daytonas...**** it's only $22.....:rider:

Brass
05-29-2008, 04:16 PM
Only concerned about having to drill the aluminium for the controls....Not a big fan of altering alum tubing....

Having grown up with dirt bikes I learned to never have your controls clamped too tight. In case you crash, which I did a lot, your controls could just spin up or down and most likely not get busted up.

So when it comes to street bikes I never drill the bars for the pins. Instead the pins are removed.

I'm not saying that you should do it. That's just what I do.

Rcdd
05-29-2008, 06:57 PM
Having grown up with dirt bikes I learned to never have your controls clamped too tight. In case you crash, which I did a lot, your controls could just spin up or down and most likely not get busted up.

So when it comes to street bikes I never drill the bars for the pins. Instead the pins are removed.

I'm not saying that you should do it. That's just what I do.

I hear that....same reason the set of perches I bought for the CR had teflon on the inside.....

Ed-B
06-06-2008, 07:26 PM
Well, this is heading in the opposite direction from most, but I've gone for a lower handlebar on my 1250. I'm running the lower GSX650F saddle, and I wanted to drop the bar a comparable amount.

I just installed a second generation Bandit 1200 bar on my bike. The bend is similar to the 1250 bar, with about an inch less rise, and just a little less rearward sweep. It's exactly what I had in mind. And now that I think about it, the seat and bar combination make the 1250 fit more like the GSX650F.

I was surprised to find that the holes for the control pods were on the top side of this 1200 handlebar, however. I was expecting it to be a simple swap, but I had to drill it anyway. BTW, I drilled them with the bar mounted on the bike, going through the holes on top to guide the drill. That worked out fine.

When you turn the bar to the stop there's just enough clearance between the handlebar and the gas tank for a gloved hand, but it's tight. And the forward side of the bar drops into the corner of the fairing a little better than the stock handlebar. I think that this could be desirable when I install my DL hand guards later.

Now that I have the cockpit ergonomics tailored to my preferences I can tweak the windshield. I'm hoping that the stock windshield works a little better for me now that I'm a bit lower on the bike. I may need a slightly taller screen, but I'll need to ride it more to know for sure.

Ed.

Ed-B
06-07-2008, 08:49 AM
I just took the bike out for a little test ride with the B12g2 handlebar, and I really like it! The bike feels a bit sportier to me, and it's still very comfortable.

I took some photos of the bike with the new setup. You can see them here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25373440@N00/sets/72157605483862513/

Ed.

Dink.1170
06-07-2008, 05:41 PM
I also replaced my bars with lower ones. When I first rode it home I thought I was on a dirt bike with ape hangers; i.e. too high and too wide, probably due to my stepping off a GS1150 Suzuki onto Bonnie and a "real"Katana as well.
I found the bike extremely tiring to ride as I had a death grip on the bars from feeling I was gonna blow off the back at any minute.
I fitted super bike bend bars, about 3/4 of an inch lower and an inch and a half narrower, these are still a little wide for my liking, but I will get used to them, afterall dont want to give away too much leverage.

Dink

MetrickMetal
06-07-2008, 11:35 PM
I just took the bike out for a little test ride with the B12g2 handlebar, and I really like it! The bike feels a bit sportier to me, and it's still very comfortable.

I took some photos of the bike with the new setup. You can see them here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/25373440@N00/sets/72157605483862513/

Ed.


I think the new one piece seat looks a lot better the stock two piece unit. Hows it working out, done any long trips on it yet? :rider:

Ed-B
06-08-2008, 05:14 AM
El Bandito,

Yes, personally I think the GSX650F seat looks better, too. The one piece design has a smooth, flowing appearance on the bike. I saw a GSX650F saddle that was modified by Sargent on another forum which had a pronounced driver's section, and that looked very nice, too.

The GSX650F saddle and B12g2 handlebar combination work very well together, and the stock fairing is more effective in the new postion. For me it's a much better setup for higher speeds and spirited riding. The position is just a little lower and deeper in the machine, and it's easy to move around on the saddle. I can slide back and hunker down behind the fairing on the lower handlebar, and shifting my body weight to the inside for cornering is smoother, too.

I've now had the bike for two weeks, and the farthest single ride to date has been about 150 miles. I stopped for lunch at about 120 miles that day. For me this stock GSX650F seat is quite comfortable to these distances. I always want to ride the bike further but I have other commitments. I'm sure that I'll have an opportunity to spend a longer period of time on the bike, but I don't anticipate any real discomfort with the saddle.

At this point I'm very satisfied with the GSX650F saddle. There are other accessories that I'd like to get, and other mods that I'm planning for the bike. The handlebar was the next significant change that I had planned to improve my position and comfort on the bike. I'm satisfied with that, too. I'm focusing on the windshield next; I may not need to do much, perhaps just an MRA ad-on spoiler, or perhaps a slightly taller screen. From there I'll look into changes for functionality and performance, and then finally I may consider some appearance enhancement.

After those things are done there's always the option to go back and tweak the saddle. If anything, I would consider having Sargent modify the GSX650F saddle next Winter when the bike is not being used here in Maine.

Ed.

vamacher
07-03-2008, 11:39 AM
I am following this thread very closely because after about ten miles my right hand is numb and both of my palms are sore. The whole handlebar/seating position is awkward for me. (5'9" 200lb) Is there a concensus on this board that lowering the bars versus raising them improves comfort?? I gotta do something and I am not sure which way to go.
Thanks for your opinions.
Vince

bones
07-03-2008, 11:51 AM
Daytona's are the big stink here. They work also and are only $20 and get soem gel grips also

vamacher
07-04-2008, 10:01 AM
I ordered a set of Daytona bars and a set of Progrip RVGS Gel Grip Model 716 from Ridenow last night. The grips I ordered are open ended I was thinking I would put the weights from the original bars back on. Is that right??? I don't know anything about handlebars. The stock set is very uncomfortable and I am following the collective wisdom.
Thanks for the help,
Vince

Derwood
07-06-2008, 07:55 AM
I'm curious too. How do the bar ends go back on to after market bars?

I remember on my DRZ400s the stock bars had a threaded hole welded inside the bar that the bar end screw threaded into, so I couldn't re-attcah the bar ends on the taller Renthals I put on.

PhilS
07-06-2008, 05:59 PM
Stock 07/08 bar ends are expansion type that expand/contract with a rubber expansion thingy when you tighten and loosen the philips head on the end. It's easy. :sun:

Marc B
07-06-2008, 09:37 PM
I removed my Daytona's today and put on a Pro-Taper mini, Dont have pics but they are 29" which is what the Daytona's were before trimming a 1/2" off the ends. The Pro tapers are about a 1/2" taller than the dt's but dont turn in as much, Had to cut the bar end weights down to fit in the ends due to the PT's are thicker on inner diameter, They are alum. in color and look cool but not sure if i can stand the straighter bar, I removed the DT's because they felt too narrow to me after cutting the ends, I was gripping the bar ends to feel right. SZ.

Indy Bandit
08-02-2008, 03:41 PM
I removed my Daytona's today and put on a Pro-Taper mini, Dont have pics but they are 29" which is what the Daytona's were before trimming a 1/2" off the ends. The Pro tapers are about a 1/2" taller than the dt's but dont turn in as much, Had to cut the bar end weights down to fit in the ends due to the PT's are thicker on inner diameter, They are alum. in color and look cool but not sure if i can stand the straighter bar, I removed the DT's because they felt too narrow to me after cutting the ends, I was gripping the bar ends to feel right. SZ.

Can you drop us a pic of it?

Thanks.

rworm
08-02-2008, 06:22 PM
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh44/robertworm/bandit177.jpg

Marc B
08-02-2008, 08:24 PM
Can you drop us a pic of it?

Thanks.

Well Worm posted a pic of the same bar, I only ran mine for a day and i just couldnt stand the straighter bar, I went back to stock with 3/4" spacers. Im happy for now, The Daytonas are not bad but they feel like a hard jolt would bend or even break em. The stockers and Pro tapers are a much stronger bar. I got the spacers and longer bolts {case hard} at tractor supply.

suzukijo
08-02-2008, 11:21 PM
i had a pair of old daytona style bars, mounted them and i too went back to stock. daytona was too flat, and made the bike feel pudgy.
i then resorted to using a long pipe and bent the stock bars forward about halfway to where the daytona bend was, and it seems that is the fix for me.
(i too had previously used longer bolts and spacers to raise the bars 3/4")

bending the bars, i crinckled the chrome experimenting with the right bend.
and i too agree, the stock suzuki bar is stronger than i remember bars to be, and found another poster who had changed his bars, and i bought his old stock items, and plan on bending those too, this time trying not to crinckle the chrome.

i have almost 20k mi on it now, so as you can see, i dont rush into things.
at speed, stock bars tend to make you push in your elbows, which is good.
its the slow speed stuff, riding straight bolt upright where they feel funny and yes, again i agree its the little muscles above my elbows that feel it.

thanks scott, for the good deal on the bars. (even tho they sit on my toolbox)

funkemaster
08-03-2008, 02:54 PM
I just ordered a pair of the black daytonas. I think it will look cool with the silver and some pro grips. 40 shipped so it's not to huge of an investment and hopefully it helps with the palm burn (especially when riding two up).:rider:

labandit
08-03-2008, 10:06 PM
rworm....me likey those bars!

Marc B
08-03-2008, 10:17 PM
I noticed Worm has no bar end weights, but he may not even want them for drag racing. I also noticed he has no fairing:rofl:

rworm
08-04-2008, 07:45 AM
I noticed Worm has no bar end weights, but he may not even want them for drag racing. I also noticed he has no fairing:rofl:
Put 2 45/70 400 grain lead cast bullets in each end,melt a candle and
fill the bars w/ wax and get rid of vibes and weights;-)
rworm

Marc B
08-04-2008, 07:52 AM
Great idea Worm.

Indy Bandit
08-08-2008, 08:49 PM
I removed my Daytona's today and put on a Pro-Taper mini, Dont have pics but they are 29" which is what the Daytona's were before trimming a 1/2" off the ends. The Pro tapers are about a 1/2" taller than the dt's but dont turn in as much, Had to cut the bar end weights down to fit in the ends due to the PT's are thicker on inner diameter, They are alum. in color and look cool but not sure if i can stand the straighter bar, I removed the DT's because they felt too narrow to me after cutting the ends, I was gripping the bar ends to feel right. SZ.

I was looking all around the internet and the shops in Indy today and apparently the Daytonas are sold out everywhere until mid Sept. I just happened to be checking out the Pro Tapers today at one of the local shops and thought they looked like a good fit, but it looked like the control mounting would be farther from center and may be a stretch for the cables. How is that working out for you? How do you like the position.

Marc B
08-09-2008, 09:07 AM
I was looking all around the internet and the shops in Indy today and apparently the Daytonas are sold out everywhere until mid Sept. I just happened to be checking out the Pro Tapers today at one of the local shops and thought they looked like a good fit, but it looked like the control mounting would be farther from center and may be a stretch for the cables. How is that working out for you? How do you like the position.

The position would have been fine if the bar had a little more turn in, No problem with the switchgear cables/wires, They still had some slack, For now im back with the stockers with 3/4" spacers/risers, this set up suits me best.

whitesands
08-09-2008, 02:00 PM
What are you using for spacers ?

Marc B
08-09-2008, 03:40 PM
What are you using for spacers ?

This may sound hodge-podge but i went to tractor supply and they have an assortment of ground rod spacer/sleeves with the hex head screw in the side, when screwed in they become flush with the outer wall of the spacer. The inside hole of the spacer is a close match with the bolt diameter, I also bought the longer bolts there as well in {case hard non metric} along with new nuts and 4 flat washers, 2 for each side, I took one stock lower clamp and one bolt with to make sure i got bolts with the same head for the counter sink and the right length for the add.3/4". The spacers 1/2" along with the extra flat washer top and bottom work out to the 3/4" rise,The outer diameter of the spacers and flatwashers are the same and match the bottom of the lower bar clamp indention, It is safe and secure and total cost was $ 6.00, After the first ride i knew it was just right for me. I will add that it looks clean,, silver and you dont see the flat washers, Cant tell that its anything other than risers, hex head screws face forward out of sight.

Indy Bandit
08-10-2008, 09:49 AM
I removed my Daytona's today and put on a Pro-Taper mini, Dont have pics but they are 29" which is what the Daytona's were before trimming a 1/2" off the ends. The Pro tapers are about a 1/2" taller than the dt's but dont turn in as much, Had to cut the bar end weights down to fit in the ends due to the PT's are thicker on inner diameter, They are alum. in color and look cool but not sure if i can stand the straighter bar, I removed the DT's because they felt too narrow to me after cutting the ends, I was gripping the bar ends to feel right. SZ.

I'm installing a set of Pro-Taper Mid-ATV bars today. When you mentioned you had to cut the bar end weights, how exactly did you do that?

Thanks.

Marc B
08-10-2008, 11:57 AM
I'm installing a set of Pro-Taper Mid-ATV bars today. When you mentioned you had to cut the bar end weights, how exactly did you do that?

Thanks.

I had bought a pair of the knurled type bar end wgts. and first tried to grind down the the part that goes into the bar ends with no luck so i cut that part off and put the rubber inserts to the grinder wheel and whittled them down to where they would fit. If you want to use the stock wgts.they dont have metal inserts but the rubber part thats supposed to go in the bar ends will have to be trimmed down or grinded down to fit, It is a pain but with persistence it will work. Rworm said he used 45 cal lead bullits and then sealed them with wax and used non open end grips...Good luck. SZ.

rworm
08-10-2008, 01:13 PM
I had bought a pair of the knurled type bar end wgts. and first tried to grind down the the part that goes into the bar ends with no luck so i cut that part off and put the rubber inserts to the grinder wheel and whittled them down to where they would fit. If you want to use the stock wgts.they dont have metal inserts but the rubber part thats supposed to go in the bar ends will have to be trimmed down or grinded down to fit, It is a pain but with persistence it will work. Rworm said he used 45 cal lead bullits and then sealed them with wax and used non open end grips...Good luck. SZ.
Put 2 45/70 400 grain lead cast bullets in each end,melt a candle and
fill the bars w/ wax and get rid of vibes and weights
rworm

Frito Bandito
08-10-2008, 06:55 PM
Anyone tried the GSX650F bars? They are black and seemed to have a better bend. I sat on one this afternoon.

Marc B
08-10-2008, 07:11 PM
Anyone tried the GSX650F bars? They are black and seemed to have a better bend. I sat on one this afternoon.

They would be a good fit, I sat on one a while back, Its just dropping 80.00 for oem that stings a little.

Frito Bandito
08-10-2008, 07:20 PM
Would they have the same holes and are they the same length as the 1250? I don't mind dropping the extra money if it's a straight swap.

Indy Bandit
08-10-2008, 08:35 PM
Well the Pro Taper Mid ATV bars were a bust. The straight part of the grip area is too far of a reach for the stock cables and brake hose. That was a $70 lesson - I suspected this was going to be the case, but I just had to try it. I should have hedged on grinding off the positioning tab until I was certain :pound:

I think for now I am going to go Suzukijo's route and bend the stockers using a 5' piece of 1" pipe. That's my after work project tomorrow. If that doesn't get it done, I may try the GSX650F bars mentioned above. :rider:

PhilS
08-10-2008, 08:52 PM
Hey Indy...


I'll be over on the 14th of Sept for the MotoGP and possibly to ride the track at Indy for the parade lap. You can check out my Daytonas and thier fit when I'm in town. I got my Bikemaster Daytona Chrome bars at RideNow.com. Are they out of stock as well?

See ya then.

Marc B
08-10-2008, 09:55 PM
Well the Pro Taper Mid ATV bars were a bust. The straight part of the grip area is too far of a reach for the stock cables and brake hose. That was a $70 lesson - I suspected this was going to be the case, but I just had to try it. I should have hedged on grinding off the positioning tab until I was certain :pound:

I think for now I am going to go Suzukijo's route and bend the stockers using a 5' piece of 1" pipe. That's my after work project tomorrow. If that doesn't get it done, I may try the GSX650F bars mentioned above. :rider:

I had bought the Pro taper mini's, same price, The cables reached fine but the lack of turn back i coudnt stand and i took them off the next day. I painted them prior to putting them on so i also share the same lesson, They are on the shelf out of sight...someone thinks they are still on the bike, Shame on me.

funkemaster
08-10-2008, 10:05 PM
Hey Indy...


I'll be over on the 14th of Sept for the MotoGP and possibly to ride the track at Indy for the parade lap. You can check out my Daytonas and thier fit when I'm in town. I got my Bikemaster Daytona Chrome bars at RideNow.com. Are they out of stock as well?

See ya then.

They are out. I ordered a pair with the pro grips and they told me they would have any in until sept 11. I ended up canceling the order and have begun to search locally for what there is around here. It was a lot better deal through ride now though. 40 shipped for both there locally its 65-80 just for the bars.

Indy Bandit
08-10-2008, 10:51 PM
I saw the minis at the dealer, but wanted a little more rise. I have checked every website I could find and they were all out of Daytonas.

Phil, I may hold out on anymore full-priced experimenting until I get a chance to check your setup - they're not available until about that time anyway.

I may check for some salvage bars at Cycle Recycle here locally. I love cheap experiments -- not like the one today.

If I just had some 7/8ths tubing and a bender, I know what I want. Hey don't those guys on American Choppers have benders?:rider:

Indy Bandit
08-14-2008, 12:53 AM
Well, I bent the stockers today and put them on the bike. I bent the grip areas forward probably cutting the bend back angle at least in half (reduced pullback by 2 - 3" I'd estimate). With the help of a friend, we took 2 - 4' lengths of 1" pipe, put each handgrip area inside of its own pipe, laid pipe with one end of the hbars on on the floor and levered the other end of the hbars with the other pipe. We then switched direction on the handlebars and did it again. Kept tweaking until we got it where I wanted it and without goofing the chrome. We were able to get the bends to within about 1/16" of pullback difference between them - not perfect, but pretty good. They feel much better - much less pressure on the heel of the palm. It also changes my arm position since my hands are turned more outward. This unlocks my elbows which makes balancing at stops smoother, looking over my shoulder for traffic checking easier, shifting is smoother (hand controls are easier to operate) and I can corner the bike more smoothly and accurately. The bars are probably just a little bit too far of a reach however. I'll probably put a 1.5" riser on them - they should be about ideal for me then.

Ed-B
08-14-2008, 05:22 AM
BTW, I looked at the GSX650F handlebar for my bike when I decided to change the bar. The top triple clamp for the 650F is different, and the handlebar clamps are closer together. Most OEM Suzuki handlebars have serrations where they sit in the clamps, so these won't line up perfectly with the Bandit 1250 clamps, you'll see them sticking out of the Bandit clamps.

Ed.

Indy Bandit
08-17-2008, 11:28 AM
This may sound hodge-podge but i went to tractor supply and they have an assortment of ground rod spacer/sleeves with the hex head screw in the side, when screwed in they become flush with the outer wall of the spacer. The inside hole of the spacer is a close match with the bolt diameter, I also bought the longer bolts there as well in {case hard non metric} along with new nuts and 4 flat washers, 2 for each side, I took one stock lower clamp and one bolt with to make sure i got bolts with the same head for the counter sink and the right length for the add.3/4". The spacers 1/2" along with the extra flat washer top and bottom work out to the 3/4" rise,The outer diameter of the spacers and flatwashers are the same and match the bottom of the lower bar clamp indention, It is safe and secure and total cost was $ 6.00, After the first ride i knew it was just right for me. I will add that it looks clean,, silver and you dont see the flat washers, Cant tell that its anything other than risers, hex head screws face forward out of sight.

Can you send us a pic of this?

Marc B
08-17-2008, 12:43 PM
Can you send us a pic of this?

sorry no pic, no camera, i'll have to wait for my son to come by with his to post a pic, by that time you will probably have a fix and wont need it but i will post one asap. If you can get a visual on a 3/4",rise, not much to see.

LowRyter
08-17-2008, 01:50 PM
I've got gold annodized Renthal bars on my Gen 1.

Not much help here, but they have plenty to choose from. Mine are taller, wider and pulled back.

Indy Bandit
08-17-2008, 02:21 PM
sorry no pic, no camera, i'll have to wait for my son to come by with his to post a pic, by that time you will probably have a fix and wont need it but i will post one asap. If you can get a visual on a 3/4",rise, not much to see.

I went to Tractor Supply and found the shaft couplings that you mentioned. Now I can visualize the install as you described it. I was looking for 1" couplings, but they only had the 1/2" you used. I'm going to check around for some 1", but this does seem a solid and inexpensive solution for a riser. Thanks for your write-up.

MtnTrax
09-06-2008, 11:21 AM
Reviving this thread with a bar setup install I just tried-
After lots of thought and consideration of options and comments from here I took the plunge and tried a motocross application hoping to get something I could live with. I mounted a set of Pro Taper Evo bars along with their mounts. Bars are wide 800mm, same total rise with mounts as stock using a one inch spacer and have much less pullback. Result was further forward, same height and much wider but fortunately the ABS brake line wasn't too short. Reach seems fine but the width may take some getting used to. The spread of the sweep bend prevents cutting more than about a 1/2 inch per side off. So far I've left that extra length in place as a 'bar end'. They do come with plugs though. Painted the stock lower mount bracket to match the clamp.I opted for the Magnesium ( bronze brown) but black is available too. Their own web site will claim mag color only but not true. They're 1 1/8 that taper to 7/8 bar ends. I'd like to add grip heaters next for some cool fall riding. http://www.protaper.com/contents/products/handlebars/index.html

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j274/Mtntrax/Bandit%201250/ProTaperBars17.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j274/Mtntrax/Bandit%201250/ProTaperBars116.jpg
http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j274/Mtntrax/Bandit%201250/ProTaperBars110.jpg

KenB
09-06-2008, 02:55 PM
Installed Renthal High Road Bars recently and love them. Same height and width as stock but they have a bit more sweep and a more natural grip angle.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/keboyer/Vehicles/1250SA/August2008025.jpg

Rcdd
09-09-2008, 07:56 PM
Ken B.....

Where?.....$$$?.......and did the cables fit, or need to be re-routed?.....

The bars look great.....think the Titanium will be my choice....:eat:

KenB
09-09-2008, 08:08 PM
Ken B.....

Where?.....$$$?.......and did the cables fit, or need to be re-routed?.....

The bars look great.....think the Titanium will be my choice....:eat:

No problems with the cables (and I have the ABS lines) or clearances on lock to lock. These bars not only look great, they feel great too. Remember though that you will need different bar end plugs too -- the stock bar ends are too large in diameter for these 7/8" bars.

I bought them from a member over on max-zuk but I'm very pleased with them. They are aluminum. The height and width is almost identical to stock but the sweep is greater so they come back to you a little more. The end plugs are from Renthal also.

Renthal Road High: Part Number 756-01

http://www.renthal.com/File/apps1.as...del=&bikedate=

Try the usual suspects like Bike Bandit, Kneedraggers.com, Ron Ayers. I bought a set for the 919 last year and I think they were about $60 from kneedraggers.

Rcdd
09-10-2008, 08:41 AM
Cheers for the info......linky didn't work....

And BTW, luv the avatar......still my fav Who album....:rider:

KenB
09-10-2008, 08:44 AM
Cheers for the info......linky didn't work....

And BTW, luv the avatar......still my fav Who album....:rider:

Sorry about that, try this one:
http://www.renthal.com/File/apps1.asp?tabtype=5&productid=0&appid=ROAD&zone=&biketype=&manufacturer=&model=&bikedate=

Quadraphenia! :thumb:

eaglemike
09-10-2008, 11:16 PM
No problems with the cables (and I have the ABS lines) or clearances on lock to lock. These bars not only look great, they feel great too. Remember though that you will need different bar end plugs too -- the stock bar ends are too large in diameter for these 7/8" bars.
Ken,
The aluminum bars have thicker walls - all the common bars for our bikes are 7/8" outside diameter, steel or aluminum. That might be what you were saying..... :-D

Some of the aluminum bars have tapered wall thickness, and a few (rare on these bikes, more common on dual sports) have tapered diameter and thickness, in the interest of decreasing vibration and increasing stiffness. A lot of handguards use a sleeve over the expanding nut when installed in steel bars, but not with aluminum bars.

Maybe all this will help someone that hasn't been there before......

all the best,

Mike

KenB
09-11-2008, 05:52 AM
Ken,
The aluminum bars have thicker walls - all the common bars for our bikes are 7/8" outside diameter, steel or aluminum. That might be what you were saying..... :-D

Some of the aluminum bars have tapered wall thickness, and a few (rare on these bikes, more common on dual sports) have tapered diameter and thickness, in the interest of decreasing vibration and increasing stiffness. A lot of handguards use a sleeve over the expanding nut when installed in steel bars, but not with aluminum bars.

Maybe all this will help someone that hasn't been there before......

all the best,

Mike
My bad - left that important part out! Thanks, Mike. Yes, the walls are considerably thicker to reduce vibes on the lighter weight aluminum, no doubt. I put the stock grips back on and while the vibes seem to be about the same as with the stock bars, I'd like to get some grips that would reduce vibes even more. Suggestions welcome!

sproggy
09-11-2008, 08:19 AM
Yes, the walls are considerably thicker to reduce vibes on the lighter weight aluminum, no doubt.

The walls on aluminium bars are thicker because aluminium isn't as strong/stiff as steel of the same thickness. Manufacturers of aftermarket bars can't increase the outside diameter so they have to reduce the inside diameter to get the thickness required for strength and stiffness - I doubt that they care about vibration.

Vibration is counteracted by weight, not by stiffness/thickness, hence the fitting of heavy bar end weights.

I switched to Renthals with small aluminium end 'weights' (they weigh next to nothing) and got the same amount of vibration through the throttle grip as with the stock steel bars and end weights. Then I balanced the throttles and the vibration disappeared. Vibration-absorbing grips just cover up a problem that proper throttle balancing could solve.

Dink.1170
09-11-2008, 03:44 PM
The walls on aluminium bars are thicker because aluminium isn't as strong/stiff as steel of the same thickness. Manufacturers of aftermarket bars can't increase the outside diameter so they have to reduce the inside diameter to get the thickness required for strength and stiffness - I doubt that they care about vibration.

Vibration is counteracted by weight, not by stiffness/thickness, hence the fitting of heavy bar end weights.

I switched to Renthals with small aluminium end 'weights' (they weigh next to nothing) and got the same amount of vibration through the throttle grip as with the stock steel bars and end weights. Then I balanced the throttles and the vibration disappeared. Vibration-absorbing grips just cover up a problem that proper throttle balancing could solve.

+1
Fix it dont hide it.

Dink

Brass
09-11-2008, 03:46 PM
In the past on other bikes that I mounted Al bars on, I would drill out the ends to fit the stock weights. You only need to go in about 2".

To add to what others have said, balance your TBs for the smoothest ride.

eaglemike
09-12-2008, 01:41 AM
Actually changing the bars has been known to change felt vibration in the grips. Since I have a bit of experience in the thumper world, I'm familiar with vibes... ;-)

Pro Taper bars (both fat and standard versions) have been known to decrease vibration a fair bit. The harmonic resonance might be better or worse with a certain bar setup on a particular bike.

I'll do some looking into the grip length compatibility for some of the gel grips. In the KLR650 world these are popular. IIRC the favorites are the 714 and 727 versions. These are larger diametere than the stock grips. I found them to be a great improvement over the stock grips on the KLR.

all the best,

Mike

KenB
09-12-2008, 05:54 AM
Sorry, we'll have to agree to disagree then. All the throttle sync in the world won't resolve all vibrations. The thickness of the Renthal bars is undoubtedly there to aid in strength, but if they were thinner the vibrations would be much worse. That thickness adds weight to the bars. If some different grips mask a "problem" that can't be entirely resolved, well then it's $15 well spent. My 2006 Hornet was testimony to this issue and some Renthal super bike grips did wonders for a bike that was tuned to perfection.

sproggy
09-12-2008, 07:30 AM
Sorry, we'll have to agree to disagree then. All the throttle sync in the world won't resolve all vibrations.

You're taking my statement too literally - of course it won't eliminate them all. Put it another way. Before I balanced my throttles I had a problem with vibration through the throttle-side grip to a point where I would have paid money for a solution, new grips or otherwise. It was no different with the Renthals than it had been with the stock steel bars. After balancing I don't have a problem - of course there still is some vibration but I don't notice it and it has no effect on my hands/fingers whatever the length of the ride. Vibration through the footrests is also vastly reduced.

That's my experience with my 1250 Bandit. We are talking about Suzuki Bandits here, right, not Honda Hornets or Kawasaki KLRs?

eaglemike
09-13-2008, 12:03 AM
Sproggy,

If I read the previous post correctly, you said "Vibration is counteracted by weight, not by stiffness/thickness, hence the fitting of heavy bar end weights." I didn't see a specific application there - sorry! I know that doing something to change the harmonic resonance can lessen felt vibration in the bars. Bar end weights is one way.

all the best,

Mike

mi1lertm
10-24-2008, 05:08 AM
I dropped on the Renthal ultra low rise bars (came non drilled +1 dealer) no issues with cables, of course stock damping did not fit. Got a bit vib'e at 60-70mph. However, I used $10 endcaps with a tube of white silicone injected into the bars and it seemed to do the trick. Renthal wanted $70 for their vib damping inserts. OTD for $12.5, had to buy new grips and with out cutting the bars they will lock. It will tap the cowling now and then but I have yet to have any issues. The Ultra L/R pull you further forward but do not add a lot of weight to your wrists. Handling is now +1 as well. IMO the stock bars are a joke.

Fittysom'n
10-24-2008, 11:28 AM
I'm really short (5' 2") with T-Rex arms.....

I replaced my factory handlebars with some sexy black bars from off the GSX650F. The wrist angle is better but they're an inch lower than the 1250's OEM bars. The end result is my having to reach/lean forward more now. I thought I would like the more aggressive riding position, but I've since learned that extended arms (read, 'straight' arms) are not conducive to relaxed counter-steering.

I plan to order some bar-backs from Gen Mar that'll bring the bars both up and back to me. I hope that the lower rise of these GSX bars will assist in allowing the bar-backs to work for me without having to change out any hoses. To tie everything in place and make for a solid foundation, I already have Holeshot's billet handlebar brace..... looks really really cool too!

Young Old Man
12-12-2008, 04:35 PM
To confirm: the GSX650F bars are a straight bolt-on?

Do the switchgear pods mount match up cleanly as well?

Fittysom'n
12-13-2008, 12:56 AM
Bolts up.... no prob'.
However when I added my bar-backs, I filed the fittings off the plastic controls that would normally fit in the locater holes of the bar..... so I could rotate them to the angle I wanted.

chakaman6
02-01-2009, 08:47 AM
For those of you who have replaced your bars. Im looking to buy some stock 1250 bars to replace some dented ones. Thanks

MetrickMetal
02-01-2009, 09:20 AM
Have you tried out the spacers yet ?

I finally installed these spacers about a month ago and I like the additional height over stock. :rider:

LowRyter
02-01-2009, 09:46 AM
For those of you who have replaced your bars. Im looking to buy some stock 1250 bars to replace some dented ones. Thanks

There are lots of aluminum aftermarket bars, like Rethnal that you can choose as well. Usually quite a bit cheaper than stock.

I've got some wider ones with gold finish on my 1998 Bandit.

treybrad
02-02-2009, 01:10 PM
There are lots of aluminum aftermarket bars, like Rethnal that you can choose as well. Usually quite a bit cheaper than stock.

I've got some wider ones with gold finish on my 1998 Bandit.

+1. It's hard to go wrong for $20:

http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster-handlebars/c/a685889a623818

Probably easier than trying to find some stock bars...

trey

MikeLe
02-02-2009, 02:18 PM
Found this link on another site, looks like good info. Daytonas sound great but having trouble finding them in the UK. I want to use steel bars not ali so the weights & guards still fit

http://www.sideroadcycles.com/ImportedMotorcycles/ImportHandlebars/StockBarsOne.html

sproggy
02-02-2009, 04:19 PM
You can fit the standard weights and the DL650 guards to Renthal bars - I have. I chose to bore out the inside of the Renthals to the same internal diameter as the standard steel bars, but you can also use an alternative method (someone suggested fuel pipe) of providing an expansion fitting for the standard weights.

MikeLe
02-03-2009, 01:48 AM
Cheers Sproggy, thats good to know, so the only remaining question is which Renthal bars ?
I have seen reference to High, Low & Ultra Low. Prime requirements are improved palm fit (less sweep?) and clearance with the Fairing & tank.

Any ideas ???

sproggy
02-03-2009, 04:19 AM
It's all down to personal preference, really. I had the "Road Ultra Low" bars which were great and gave a more sporty riding position while giving adequate clearance. Because of shoulder/neck problems I've now gone for something higher (about the same height as the standard bars, but a more natural grip angle) but I can't remember off hand what bend they are. I can check tonight if you want to know.

You just have to judge from the dimensions what might suit you compared to the standard bars, really, as everyone's a different height/build and has a different preference for riding position. And any bars can be changed further by combining them with risers and/or bar-backs, as long as the length of control cables/hoses allows.

MikeLe
02-03-2009, 06:59 AM
And thats the fundamental issue for us all. There are innumerable options and further alterations we can make. I dont want to get into bar risers, up an inch, back an inch etc at least not yet, and I dont want to change hoses etc.

The main complaint remains the palm grip angle, personally I would move towards a lean forward more not less option but I`m not looking for a dramatic alteration in general positioning. (I have an SP1 for back trouble :-)

If you could post your current bar type (and any fit / clearance issues) that would be great.

Fittysom'n
02-03-2009, 08:02 AM
Mike,

I had success without having to replace lines/hoses on my ABS model. It was the wrist angle that I wanted to address, as the factory bars just didn't cut it for me.

I replaced the bars with some black bars from off the little GSX650F, they're lower and have the wrist angle I was looking for; but they didn't clear the tank easily.

I added GenMar bar-backs to the equation (black), and my bars were now an inch back and an inch up for me.... sweeeet; but once again, they didn't clear the tank easily.

I filed the little plastic locating-tabs off my controls, and was now able to rotate the bars and locate the controls to an angle that cleared my gas tank, albeit by a quarter/half inch.

The final thing I did was install a sexy (black) Holeshot handlebar brace that Dale Walker offers. The brace not only compliments the resulting 'look', but it makes for a VERY solid platform to which the bars are now married.

I lean forward a bit now and my lower back appreciates that. The wrist angle works for me, and everything looks good.

Indy Bandit
02-03-2009, 09:05 AM
I didn't like the grip angle on the stockers either. I took 2 - 1" dia. x 5' pieces of black pipe and slipped them over the grip areas of the bars and just bent them to what I wanted. I bent them forward and down a little. It made a huge improvement and didn't cost much - just the 2 pieces of 5' pipe. Just pull the bars off and bend away.

Fittysom'n
02-03-2009, 09:16 AM
Whoa.... I wish I had nerve enough to try that.

I didn't mind the stockers, and they actually grew on me; but that wrist angle was a killer! I was tempted to try bending them, but I didn't have a platform/vice/grip solid enough to hold the bars, and I wasn't gonna try it with 'em still on the bike.

I paid LOTSA money for those OEM bars, designer-name bar-backs, and billet handlebar brace! And the frustration of not getting the clearances and angles I wanted taxed me. It all worked out though, but I sure would like to have used all that money for other things.....

KNOWING that the bars can stand up to the bending, given as how Indy Bandit did it successfully, is a bonus for those who wonder if they oughta try it themselves!

mi1lertm
02-03-2009, 09:20 AM
I use the ultra low rise as well and enjoy them very much. Not to much wrist pressure and they do give a sporter stance.

Mark

Indy Bandit
02-03-2009, 09:23 AM
Just to clarify, have your wife/girlfriend or buddy stand on one pipe while it's on the floor - I found setting that pipe in the garage floor joint keeps it from rolling during the process. Then bend the other end, swap ends and repeat. Putting the bike on the center stand, you can quickly reset the bars in place and take measurement from the floor to get the height of the bar ends the same and by laying them on the flat floor it's easy to check the pull back. This helps you keep the bends symmetrical.

sproggy
02-03-2009, 01:03 PM
I didn't like the grip angle on the stockers either. I took 2 - 1" dia. x 5' pieces of black pipe and slipped them over the grip areas of the bars and just bent them to what I wanted. I bent them forward and down a little. It made a huge improvement and didn't cost much - just the 2 pieces of 5' pipe. Just pull the bars off and bend away.

A perfect demonstration of how flexible the stock bars are. And let's face it - flexibility is not a characteristic that is even remotely desirable in handlebars.

Decent (alloy) bars are so cheap, someone at Suzuki should be shot for specifying those tin-foil excuses in the first place.

sproggy
02-03-2009, 01:14 PM
If you could post your current bar type (and any fit / clearance issues) that would be great.

Just been out (braved the snow ;-) ) to check and they're Renthal's 756 bend which is Road High (on the table you linked to above). They're about the same height as stock but a better bend. I got mine from B&C Express - highly recommended, excellent service.

http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/cgi-bin/bc_page.pl?cat=HB-ROAD

tristan.duff
02-03-2009, 01:29 PM
First off, I've read through all seven pages of this thread and haven't seen the information I'm looking for... and the Bandit Megathread scares me. If I'm asking a redundant question, my apologies.

So I've been considering doing something with my B1250's handlebars since I got it; while I do like the somewhat "aggressive" riding position when I'm on twisties, most of my riding is commuting and distance. As such, the stock setup and the stock seat height get tiresome after about 100 miles (I'm 6' and 170 lbs). I feel most of it in my shoulders. It feels like a more upright riding position would do me a world of good. However, I have serious reservations about pulling my handlebars apart and swapping them with something else; I'm afraid I'll get something out of whack, or not fasten something correctly, and won't notice it until I'm doing about 70 mph (not a good time to find a mistake). I have been considering the handlebar risers from Holeshot Performance, as those look like a simple enough swap:

http://www.holeshot.com/Bandit_1250/1250riser.html

The only downside to this is that the kit is $90 (for my ABS model). I am liking the idea of a $20 solution, and at the moment, I've got at least a month before I am able to even start riding. For those of you who have done the swap with the Daytona bars, can you compare the riding position / distance comfort with the stock handlebars? Also, if anyone has tried both the Daytona bars and the risers, I'd love to hear a comparison on those.

MikeLe
02-03-2009, 01:30 PM
Cheers Sproggy
What a brave soldier :clap:

and thanks for the link

Mike

Indy Bandit
02-03-2009, 07:29 PM
A perfect demonstration of how flexible the stock bars are. And let's face it - flexibility is not a characteristic that is even remotely desirable in handlebars.

Decent (alloy) bars are so cheap, someone at Suzuki should be shot for specifying those tin-foil excuses in the first place.

I think the flexibility felt is coming from the rubber mount. Those things are pretty tough to bend. Even with a 5' stick of pipe, it takes some effort to bend them. I have great confidence in the rigidity of the stock bars. I hate their shape, but they are pretty tough. I don't ever see them being a safety or steering accuracy issue. I think any felt sponginess probably comes from the rubber mount.

Fittysom'n
02-04-2009, 12:15 AM
I gotta come clean on this....

Prior to spending all that money on new bar$, bar-back$, gel grip$, and a billet handlebar brace, I simply rotated the OEM bars in their mounts thus changing the grip angle. These were my observations:

* Never before has simply rotating the handlebars a half inch forward or back, so effectively changed the feel of ANY of my bikes. I've been doing this for years, but it has never been as effective on my other bikes as it was on the Bandit (?!?).

* I was VERY SURPRISED to experience what a 'neutral' sitting position did with regard to my ability to counter-steer effortlessly and dance through switch-backs with ease. The BMW RT has been known for putting it's pilot in the "sit up and beg" sitting/handlebar position. I briefly experienced this with the OEM bars when I rotated them closer to me.

I looked for a set of after-market bars identical to the factory Bandit bars, but with a less radical grip angle. I couldn't find any.....
My current handlebar set-up is best when I scoot up on the seat and bend forward with bent arms, for canyon carving or exceeding sane velocities.

I must say however that I am VERY much sold on Holeshot's one piece billet handlebar brace. My set-up is mucho SOLID! If I could do it all over again, I would have continued to search for and possibly find something based on the factory bars with a different bend.......

All said, try rotating your factory bars forward or back until you find an angle that you can live with. You may not need new bars.

tristan.duff
02-08-2009, 12:27 AM
So I'm really thinking that a set of risers is a better move for me than going all-out and replacing the handlebars... I'm comfortable with a toolkit, but removing the bars and replacing them with something else sounds like a lot of work that I don't care to do (yes, you can call me lazy if you'd like). I've found a couple sets online that have my attention, but after looking around at the bike itself for a few minutes, I have a question:

How the **** do you get those stupid nut caps off? I've tried pushing, pulling, twisting, brute force (bent a knife trying THAT one)... how do they come out? I know I'm probably going to feel like an idiot once someone tells/shows me, but right now I feel like a monkey staring at an algebra book.

Indy Bandit
02-08-2009, 01:36 AM
So I'm really thinking that a set of risers is a better move for me than going all-out and replacing the handlebars... I'm comfortable with a toolkit, but removing the bars and replacing them with something else sounds like a lot of work that I don't care to do (yes, you can call me lazy if you'd like). I've found a couple sets online that have my attention, but after looking around at the bike itself for a few minutes, I have a question:

How the **** do you get those stupid nut caps off? I've tried pushing, pulling, twisting, brute force (bent a knife trying THAT one)... how do they come out? I know I'm probably going to feel like an idiot once someone tells/shows me, but right now I feel like a monkey staring at an algebra book.

I just used a box cutter to catch the edge of the cap and pry it up. I wouldn't sweat changing out the bars, it's really pud. After bending the stock bars, I put a set of 2" Rox risers on and it really helped. I need a longer front brake line so I can follow suit with Fitty and then just rotate them down a little but the line is stretched to the max now.

Rcdd
02-08-2009, 05:45 PM
So I'm really thinking that a set of risers is a better move for me than going all-out and replacing the handlebars... I'm comfortable with a toolkit, but removing the bars and replacing them with something else sounds like a lot of work that I don't care to do (yes, you can call me lazy if you'd like). I've found a couple sets online that have my attention, but after looking around at the bike itself for a few minutes, I have a question:

How the **** do you get those stupid nut caps off? I've tried pushing, pulling, twisting, brute force (bent a knife trying THAT one)... how do they come out? I know I'm probably going to feel like an idiot once someone tells/shows me, but right now I feel like a monkey staring at an algebra book.

I used a small wood chisel......lightly prying up.....

tristan.duff
02-09-2009, 07:21 AM
Yes, I was right: I feel like an idiot now, after seeing how it works. I was prying the caps as if they were large metal (as in, I assumed the top part of the nut was part of the cap, NOT the nut). I actually ended up using the metal pocket clip on a ballpoint pen with great success. Thanks for the heads-up.

thunderbolt
02-14-2009, 06:12 PM
Rotated my stock bars forward and wow, what a difference! I went as far forward as I could without the throttle cables touching the windscreen and it is perfect for me. Here's how close I put them, this is with the right bar pushed all the way forward against the stop.

http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss354/wvaneeden/Motorcycles/Modifications/Crash%20Bars/0f523c1a.jpg

saucisse
03-26-2009, 05:23 PM
Thread resurrection here :giveup:

Anyone knows what are the stock handlebar's measurements?

I want to get a slightly higher handlebar with a more natural angle for the wrist. My wrists don't like the stock one.

Any suggestion other then the Daytone which does not offer a rise ?

http://www.ufo-productions.com/products/street-bars.htm

Looking at the link above, I can get the 87-0053 but I really don't know how it compares to the stock one.

Thanks for the help!

streak07
03-26-2009, 08:30 PM
http://www.sideroadcycles.com/AmericanMotorcycles/Handlebars/Stock_Bars.html

saucisse
03-26-2009, 09:04 PM
http://www.sideroadcycles.com/AmericanMotorcycles/Handlebars/Stock_Bars.html

Many thanks !!!

sandman53
05-30-2009, 10:58 AM
After having neck surgery this fall, I find the tiding position of the Bandit much less comfortable. Wondering if anyone has experimented with a 3-4" rise in the handlebars, or pull back of 2-3". If so, what does this entail?
(i.e. clutch and brake line, cables, ect.) Would appreciate any and all info., as I have a road trip coming up.
Thanks in advance, Sandman.

Pecan7
06-03-2009, 07:27 PM
Saucisse, what did you find out about how those bars compare to the stock ones? When I try the link to the chart, it won't load.

Also, anyone have alloy bars on a Bandit? Seems like it might add some much-needed bling to the bike, make it look just a little nicer.

streak07
06-03-2009, 08:23 PM
After having neck surgery this fall, I find the tiding position of the Bandit much less comfortable. Wondering if anyone has experimented with a 3-4" rise in the handlebars, or pull back of 2-3". If so, what does this entail?
(i.e. clutch and brake line, cables, ect.) Would appreciate any and all info., as I have a road trip coming up.
Thanks in advance, Sandman.

You'd need some risers for 7/8" bars and all new lines. May have to extend electrical wires as well depending on how far back you go. Just put some genmars on and the brake lines are fairly snug, clutch line is close to being too tight but not quite. And this is with the tree slid down on the forks about an inch for my short wife, cut the factory zip ties to give them the slack needed. So definitely new brake/clutch/throttle lines, electrical would be cutting it close. If you did that much rise plus the pullback then I'd say definitely.

sproggy
06-04-2009, 02:43 AM
Also, anyone have alloy bars on a Bandit? Seems like it might add some much-needed bling to the bike, make it look just a little nicer.

Yes, I've got Renthal alloy bars - same height as stock but a more comfortable grip angle. They certainly look better than the cheap chrome ones the bike came with.

Fittysom'n
06-04-2009, 09:40 AM
I'm surprised that I haven't posted this yet....

I looked for and found my OEM handlebars in the garage, mounted them to a stable work bench, then took a five foot pipe and proceded to bend 'em. I bent the grip angle forward from their original "wheel barrow" position to something more comfortable.

By measuring the distance from the work bench to the tips of my bar, I ended up moving the grip angle about an inch and a half forward. The grip is now wider and easier on my wrists.... stretching my cables to their max', as the bars are mounted in some Gen Mar risers that put the bars an inch higher and an inch closer to me....

Pecan7
06-12-2009, 08:51 PM
Can someone please measure and reply with the length (in millimeters) of the stock handgrips on the bike?

I need to order replacement grips, and need to know what length to get. My bike no longer has its stock grips, so I can't measure my own.

Much obliged.

Willie
06-13-2009, 08:02 AM
Can someone please measure and reply with the length (in millimeters) of the stock handgrips on the bike?

I need to order replacement grips, and need to know what length to get. My bike no longer has its stock grips, so I can't measure my own.

Much obliged.

120mm on "Old" #29. These are the original grips (OEM Suzuki)

Indy Bandit
06-13-2009, 12:11 PM
After having neck surgery this fall, I find the tiding position of the Bandit much less comfortable. Wondering if anyone has experimented with a 3-4" rise in the handlebars, or pull back of 2-3". If so, what does this entail?
(i.e. clutch and brake line, cables, ect.) Would appreciate any and all info., as I have a road trip coming up.
Thanks in advance, Sandman.

Sandman, I have some degeneration with the discs in my neck and also was uncomfortable with the stock riding position. From an earlier post (see this thread from AUG08), and like Fitty, I took some pipe and and bent the stockers forward quite a bit. They are much more comfortable. I also put on Rox 2" risers and rotated the handlebars back a little. Cables just barely reach now. I can't rotate them back quite as far as I'd like (longer hoses will be a winter project later this year). This helped a bunch, but for my long torso, I'd still like at least 1 more inch of rise. If you have a more average build, I think this to work pretty well - gets your neck and spine more aligned.

PhilS
10-02-2011, 09:06 PM
I searched and only found IndianJoe doing this and he's been off forum for a year.........

I am looking to see if anyone has tried the BikeMaster Superbike bars? They seem to have the same specs as the Daytona's that a bunch of of use, BUT, they have less rise. So, you lean a little more forward.

Anyone tried these? For $22, I'm about to..........

banditcoastie1250
10-05-2011, 10:00 PM
Phil what did you end up going with? the daytonas or the superbikes? i just ordered the daytonas to give them a shot. that combo with the progrip 719s open. now im still lost, the factory bar ends will not work on the daytonas????

PhilS
10-07-2011, 07:19 PM
Phil what did you end up going with? the daytonas or the superbikes? i just ordered the daytonas to give them a shot. that combo with the progrip 719s open. now im still lost, the factory bar ends will not work on the daytonas????

Factory ends work perfect with Daytonas. I have Daytonas on my bike now but want a lower bar so Im thinking about the Superbike bars.

Here is my Daytona install.........

http://www.twtex.com/forums/showpost.php?p=326786&postcount=7

banditcoastie1250
10-07-2011, 07:55 PM
Keep us posted as to how they turn out, I'm eager to see the diff the daytonas will make let alone going to a lower bar, wish I would have looked into those before buying the daytonas

PhilS
10-07-2011, 10:15 PM
Keep us posted as to how they turn out, I'm eager to see the diff the daytonas will make let alone going to a lower bar, wish I would have looked into those before buying the daytonas

I bought the Daytonas "solely" because my wrists were hurting with stock bars. The pull back (angle from center back) on the stock bars was too much thus creating a pressure point on my outer palms when my hands were set normal OR they made me bend my wrists/hands outward to match the pullback angle. This is "probably" due to my wider shoulders. Perhaps the small Japanese test rider/ergonomic model was 100 lbs lighter, a foot shorter, and had narrower shoulders.

Either way, the Daytonas fit perfectly as my hands now hit the bars at a comfortable angle. The look toward the Superbike bars was simply about lowering the rise and retaining the pullback.

Specs are as follows per the BikeMaster site http://www.bikemaster.com/bmstrv2.nsf/Products/7BBFEBB7D70BBBCD86257700007385F4?opendocument :

Daytona - Width 29.2", Rise 5.36", Pullback 3", Center 4.4
Superbike - Width 29.2, Rise 3.04, Pullback 3, Center 4

GregH
10-08-2011, 09:34 AM
Do you what the rise is on the stock bars?

achesley
10-11-2011, 11:31 AM
Do you what the rise is on the stock bars?

Just saw this. I'll measure next time I'm in the garage today.

GregH
10-12-2011, 09:48 PM
Thanks, Andy. I'm considering replacing the bars this winter for something more comfortable.

achesley
10-13-2011, 03:42 AM
Got hung up with a group to escort the Portable Wall from Lafayette to Jennings so didn't get them measured till this morning. ;=)_

This is all fairly close measurements as I didn't take off the stuff I have attached to the bars.
Width = 27 ( not counting the end pieces )
Center = 5.5 "
Rise = 3"
Pull back = 6"

GregH
10-15-2011, 12:49 PM
Thanks for benchmarking it, Andy.
Now I have to decide which number I want to change...

banditcoastie1250
10-15-2011, 05:32 PM
got my daytonas installed with superbike progrip 719 grips and wow what a difference those made. rode with my wife last night for about 30 minutes and about a 20 mile run and no soreness nor loss of feeling in the digits. best 50$ i spent so far. the black bar looks good on the red bike too esp since im going for the whole, red black and cf look

GregH
10-16-2011, 01:22 PM
How about a pic? We believe nothing without pics!

Shotrod
10-20-2011, 06:38 AM
Thanks, Andy. I'm considering replacing the bars this winter for something more comfortable.

Me also...I don't want anything lower that stock though. Other than the angle, is there any difference in the Daytonas? Also Phil .. what kind of grips are those? I like the looks and they look comfortable.

achesley
10-20-2011, 08:28 AM
I have a set of bars I took off a stock DRZ 400 I had bought years back. They would look good on da Bandit and look to be a good fit , but I would have to put on at least 5" up and back risers for me to be comfortable with them for long rides. That would mean lots of extensions and re-routing. Measuring and ordering brake lines and clutch line, throttle cables. I'd really have to study the wiring runs also. I'm pretty much at full extension on the wiring and stuff with the 3" Roxs. Something I might play with one day when I'm absolutely bored. ;-)

MetrickMetal
10-20-2011, 01:54 PM
What I want to know, is who is going to be the first one to put a set of ape hangers on their Bandit like these.

http://www.pollsb.com/photos/o/35072-purpose_really_tall_ape_hanger_handlebars.jpg

achesley
10-20-2011, 02:31 PM
AMAZING! True APE HANGERS.

GregH
10-20-2011, 08:24 PM
You've got to really want it to put up with those.

Shotrod
10-21-2011, 06:16 AM
Dang...can you imagine four exhaust pipes like that? I'd probably run mine straight back to discourage tailgaters .. but then you'd have to have them little red flags on'em

achesley
10-21-2011, 07:39 AM
Years back, for the heck of it, I pulled the muffler off my KLR and got right in the middle of a group of friends on piped crusiers. They were cringing at the noise that bike was making. Could not figure out how such a small engine was so loud. Right at the same size as one of their cylinders and higher compression was my answer. ;-)

BlueStreak
10-28-2011, 06:15 PM
Keeps his pits nice a cool. :)

I've seen that pic before, and I still can't figure out how he maneuvers it at low speeds.

YoDoc
10-29-2011, 02:45 AM
What I want to know, is who is going to be the first one to put a set of ape hangers on their Bandit like these.

http://www.pollsb.com/photos/o/35072-purpose_really_tall_ape_hanger_handlebars.jpg

I had always just assumed it was shopped.... I hope not, but always thought it was.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

Scubadvr
10-31-2011, 03:44 PM
I had always just assumed it was shopped.... I hope not, but always thought it was.
It's not; I've seen the guy on the road twice. :eek2:

YoDoc
10-31-2011, 03:55 PM
It's not; I've seen the guy on the road twice. :eek2:

!!!

MetrickMetal
10-31-2011, 06:46 PM
It's not; I've seen the guy on the road twice. :eek2:

He should have been in the Planet of the Apes. :rofl:

YoDoc
10-31-2011, 11:46 PM
I would literally be afraid of falling off.

Carless
11-15-2011, 12:00 PM
http://www.pollsb.com/photos/o/35072-purpose_really_tall_ape_hanger_handlebars.jpg
What I want to know is, who is this guy and does he know he's famous?

Scubadvr
11-15-2011, 03:52 PM
What I want to know is, who is this guy and does he know he's famous?

His picture has been posted in a bunch of different forums, so I suppose he's gotten the attention he so obviously craves.

PhilS
11-16-2011, 07:41 PM
What I want to know, is who is going to be the first one to put a set of ape hangers on their Bandit like these.

http://www.pollsb.com/photos/o/35072-purpose_really_tall_ape_hanger_handlebars.jpg

I'm guessing he's from Missouri.....

Also, look at those exhaust stacks!!!!!

Tazman2
11-23-2011, 10:21 AM
At least he can save on deodorant with all that fresh air going up in there! :rofl:

PhilS
11-24-2011, 08:39 AM
At least he can save on deodorant with all that fresh air going up in there! :rofl:

I'm guessing using deodorant isn't usually on his list of daily activities........:rofl:

Oh slam......I'll never hear the end of that one!!! Just kidding.

But, back to handlebars.....

I saw a set of Renthal's on a Bandit on Jimmy Fireblades (UK) Bandit Wheelie Website. These bars had a separate support bar on top - like motocross bars. What's that all about on a streetbike?

GregH
11-24-2011, 11:04 AM
...I'll never here the end of that one!

Where?

Ross.Moorhouse
01-17-2012, 04:10 AM
At long last my Renthal Medium Road Bars have arrived today. Spent the afternoon fitting them. It was not a smooth process. Not the bars fault at all as I have not changed the brake hoses etc.

I wanted a set of bars that would take a fair bit of weight of my wrists and the front end. I toyed with getting the Renthal Low Road bars which I see a few fit to their Bandits. I wanted a bit more of an upright seating position. So I went for the Medium Road Bars. Let me say they have given me what I wanted. More upright. My wrists are at a more natural position compared to the OEM bars. I have more leverage on the bars due to them being wider compared to the OEM bars. So I am very happy with them. I will just have to fiddle with the front dampening settings due to the weight coming off the front end as it has now. This is the good.

The Bad and some more good. I can not have the grips. clutch, brake or switch gear positioned so there is no bar showing at the end. See below photo of bars fitted to bike for this "over hang". Also there is a bit of pull now on the wiring into the switch gear. The brake hose is just about at full stretch. So too the throttle cables. This, however, has not affected either the braking of the throttle. When bars are at full lock the throttle cables do not pull and make the engine rev. I will just keep and eye on the wiring and make sure it is not being strained. If it does I will have re-route this wiring somehow.

There is just enough clearance for bars and the tank at full lock too. I think had I have gone for the Low Road Bars that the bars would have just about hit the tank. I will of course not know this for sure.

Also my bark buster hand guard fit but they now clamp in a bend in the bars. They did not on the OEM bars.

I did not want to cut the bars down. So I have "over hang" as mentioned above. I may get a machine shot to run me up some bar ends that are just caps at the end and the rest fitting into the bars. Paint then black and really no one will know the difference. In the short I ride I did this arvo after fitting the bars I noticed less vibration through the bars so may just a cap on the bars will suffice.

Ok now some photos to show the difference between the OEM bars and the Medium Road Bars.

http://i39.tinypic.com/35jzh5l.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/11m92y0.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/1znvdl1.jpg

What they look like on the bike.

http://i44.tinypic.com/mtm6v6.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/2mo74li.jpg

dasminkar
01-17-2012, 04:19 AM
what is that on the end of your right handlebar?

Ross.Moorhouse
01-17-2012, 04:23 AM
what is that on the end of your right handlebar?

Throttle rocker... http://throttlerocker.com/ Been using them for some time now on my bikes. Helps stop your hand from cramping.

Ross.Moorhouse
01-17-2012, 04:30 PM
I was able to remove some of the wire brackets that hold the wire to the switchblocks tight to the frame. This has allowed me to move everything on the handles bars to the end of the bars now. Have just fitted the OEM bar ends too with some fuel hose over the bolt and a bit of tape to take up the gap. Then tighten them and they are holding nice and tight.

http://i44.tinypic.com/14sproz.jpg

jackhammer50
01-24-2012, 08:29 PM
Were you able to fit your bar ends into the Renthal bars? Would a throttlemeister fit?

Ross.Moorhouse
01-25-2012, 02:10 AM
Were you able to fit your bar ends into the Renthal bars? Would a throttlemeister fit?

Yes see my post above yours?

gunzip
01-25-2012, 06:15 AM
'snipped ' These bars had a separate support bar on top - like motocross bars. What's that all about on a streetbike?

I went through several handlebars on my old gs1100l trying to find a bend that did not kill my wrists , I wound up with a motocross bar that was perfect for me. I found the crossbar to come in handy as a place to mount things i.e. I had a little tool bag hanging there that I kept sunglasses and gloves in , had a cup holder on it at one time too.

The bandits bar space is pretty cramped for space and as I acquire gadgets that bar mount , I am contemplating fabbing up a variant of this product
http://www.streetline-usa.com/Store/2334/PN-612-0040/GPS-Mount-Adapter-BMW-F800ST-Suzuki-Bandit-1250 [ yes i am an idea thief]
making it longer and wider as a 'dashboard' of sorts to line up the thingys I want . gps , heated grip control , radar detector, power outlet etc

GregH
01-25-2012, 08:33 PM
...I am contemplating fabbing up a variant of this product
http://www.streetline-usa.com/Store/2334/PN-612-0040/GPS-Mount-Adapter-BMW-F800ST-Suzuki-Bandit-1250...

That looks pretty cool.

Carp
01-30-2012, 08:47 PM
Has anybody tried the 1250FA bars on their 1250S? The look like they are a bit higher and a bit narrower.

Bill@ButlerMaps
02-23-2012, 02:40 PM
another Grip option
http://spidergrips.com/spiderg/

and bar end insert if you have vibs
http://www.vibranator.com/street_bikes_s/23.htm

Ooops - should have addressed it - sorry. I was actually asking CamperJohn.

I picked up the Superbike Gel Pro Grips from Dale Walker (www.holeshot.com) for $12 when I bought some other thingys. They look and feel great......at least to me.:sun:

Get this - stock handlebar from Suzuki - $84. R/L Stock grips from Suzuki - $31. :eek2: :eek2: :eek2:

Here's mine.

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z62/stearnsp/acc_pro_grips.jpg

Alton
03-20-2012, 11:47 PM
3.5 years and 6 pages ago, sz-rider posted an idea for an on-the-cheap set of risers. I decided to use his idea and post some pics. My setup only adds 1/2" rise, but that was exactly what I needed. My total cost was about $15. Click on the pics for larger versions.

After taking off the handlebars and removing the mounts, this is what one of the mounts looks like.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_p9uK8hW8rY/T2lRyy1C0AI/AAAAAAAAAd4/rbHhDg5slaQ/s288/DSC_8597.JPG
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UIPsCYGQMCvpIhadGp4_CtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=d irectlink)

Go to the hardware store, and take one of the above with you (just in case you need to compare).
I bought two of each of the following.

3/4"x1/2" collar
3/8"x3" hex head bolt
3/8" lock washer

I chose stainless steel. Its more expensive, but overall seems worth it.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--UGJ84cspuk/T2lSIkv3hpI/AAAAAAAAAeE/gpfbVCU4Tw8/s288/DSC_8598.JPG
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IrkGXj387diNhrCo5REcidMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=d irectlink)


When it goes back together, this is the order. The triple-tree goes between the collar and the lower rubber washer.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-suhb5CLW0e8/T2lSJMIYXbI/AAAAAAAAAeI/WwOoPnXqriY/s288/DSC_8601.JPG (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-MSfK3CLErRNotSLZJaCVNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=di rectlink)

Don't forget to use some of this.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mNw0V08s1W8/T2lSJMZPOpI/AAAAAAAAAeQ/CMK4dbUxjJ8/s288/DSC_8602.JPG
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Hz27IqoB0WbjXJMr0Z4yR9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=d irectlink)

And here is what it looks like when all put back together.


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7eSQW5Dv6sg/T2lSJayZJ-I/AAAAAAAAAeg/a-nsMzm4Hro/s288/DSC_8603.JPG
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LW9TGp9WpNJDjDga7cfaRtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=d irectlink)


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dXTlhMnwqhc/T2lSJjme2SI/AAAAAAAAAec/4O2tdXiIpZg/s288/DSC_8604.JPG
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ThyKrEXKdrAhbxY4yKuhS9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=d irectlink)

achesley
03-21-2012, 06:53 AM
Very neat and thought out job. Thanks for the pics.
If I redo my bar height again, it will be from a ROX 2 in to 3 in. But that would require a longer clutch line and some serious looking at the wiring to see if it will go there even with rerouting.

PR_Portugal
03-21-2012, 01:14 PM
Does anyone knows the Dim A, B, C, D, E and F of the OEM handlebars? Just to comparison purposes.
Thanks!!

PR_Portugal
03-21-2012, 01:15 PM
Forgot this: http://www.renthal.com/File/apps1.asp?tabtype=5&productid=0&appid=ROAD&zone=

Alton
03-21-2012, 06:50 PM
Does anyone knows the Dim A, B, C, D, E and F of the OEM handlebars? Just to comparison purposes.
Thanks!!

http://www.sideroadcycles.com/AmericanMotorcycles/Handlebars/Stock_Bars.html

Ross.Moorhouse
03-31-2012, 01:18 AM
3.5 years and 6 pages ago, sz-rider posted an idea for an on-the-cheap set of risers. I decided to use his idea and post some pics. My setup only adds 1/2" rise, but that was exactly what I needed. My total cost was about $15. Click on the pics for larger versions.

After taking off the handlebars and removing the mounts, this is what one of the mounts looks like.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_p9uK8hW8rY/T2lRyy1C0AI/AAAAAAAAAd4/rbHhDg5slaQ/s288/DSC_8597.JPG
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UIPsCYGQMCvpIhadGp4_CtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=d irectlink)

Go to the hardware store, and take one of the above with you (just in case you need to compare).
I bought two of each of the following.

3/4"x1/2" collar
3/8"x3" hex head bolt
3/8" lock washer

I chose stainless steel. Its more expensive, but overall seems worth it.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/--UGJ84cspuk/T2lSIkv3hpI/AAAAAAAAAeE/gpfbVCU4Tw8/s288/DSC_8598.JPG
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IrkGXj387diNhrCo5REcidMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=d irectlink)


When it goes back together, this is the order. The triple-tree goes between the collar and the lower rubber washer.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-suhb5CLW0e8/T2lSJMIYXbI/AAAAAAAAAeI/WwOoPnXqriY/s288/DSC_8601.JPG (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-MSfK3CLErRNotSLZJaCVNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=di rectlink)

Don't forget to use some of this.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-mNw0V08s1W8/T2lSJMZPOpI/AAAAAAAAAeQ/CMK4dbUxjJ8/s288/DSC_8602.JPG
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Hz27IqoB0WbjXJMr0Z4yR9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=d irectlink)

And here is what it looks like when all put back together.


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7eSQW5Dv6sg/T2lSJayZJ-I/AAAAAAAAAeg/a-nsMzm4Hro/s288/DSC_8603.JPG
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/LW9TGp9WpNJDjDga7cfaRtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=d irectlink)


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-dXTlhMnwqhc/T2lSJjme2SI/AAAAAAAAAec/4O2tdXiIpZg/s288/DSC_8604.JPG
(https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ThyKrEXKdrAhbxY4yKuhS9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=d irectlink)

This is my take on what you did. I could not get a collar. I searched our huge hardware chain store today and they had none. So I used 4 washes on each side. I also bought 3" x 3/8" bolts to mount the bar clamps back onto the triple clamp. You need at least 3" to allow for the extra length created my the bolts.

These cheap risers have given me 3/4" rise. What I like about using the washers is I can lower them in increments of just over a 1/4". So far I like the height.

http://i44.tinypic.com/20sg4nt.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/2re5vde.jpg

http://i43.tinypic.com/24ct9pu.jpg

mi1lertm
03-31-2012, 01:22 AM
Just a heads up. Dale over at holeshot now has some custom bars with the lines to go with it (+3 in) over stock. Not a bad setup if you are looking for the whole kit at one place with one price.

Mark

Ross.Moorhouse
03-31-2012, 08:05 PM
I have also toyed with the idea of getting a set of laverda jota adjustable handlebars. How many here remember these?

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm278/Scabbyrat/Raaskadjustablebars1.jpg

llcarr78
03-31-2012, 08:59 PM
Ross,

What happened with your Renthal Road Medium bars?

Do you like them?

Thanks!

llcarr78

Alton
03-31-2012, 10:03 PM
This is my take on what you did.

Nicely done! :clap:

I think it looks good.

Ross.Moorhouse
03-31-2012, 11:35 PM
Ross,

What happened with your Renthal Road Medium bars?

Do you like them?

Thanks!

llcarr78

I loved them. But they got bent when I had to pick the 1200 up after it rolled off the sidestand.

Ross.Moorhouse
03-31-2012, 11:38 PM
Nicely done! :clap:

I think it looks good.

Cheers mate you inspired me with how simple your risers are.

I changed from 4 washers to 2 washers today. Then did 100km ride just now and they are really comfy.

Tundra Dweller
10-10-2013, 09:21 PM
I threw a set of these 30mm Tusk risers ($23 with bolts) under the stock bars. Weekend long ride coming up to test them out.
They work fine with the stock wires/brake and clutch lines. Even gained some more clearance on the left DL-1000 hand guard.
Will be trying a Daytona chrome bar with heated elements soon.

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/tundratom/Risers_zps9e2dabea.jpg (http://s199.photobucket.com/user/tundratom/media/Risers_zps9e2dabea.jpg.html)

Tazman2
10-11-2013, 08:28 AM
I have the 1 inch Vstrom ebay risers myself and for a few bucks they made a huge difference! :)

Tundra Dweller
11-05-2013, 09:35 AM
I left the chrome Daytona bar at it's stock length, drilled the control pin holes and changed the grips with added heated element. With the above photo 30 mm risers I did need to re-route the throttle cables (no problem as the throttle assembly was apart) and got rid of the "coat hanger" guides. All stock controls with only the front brake line needing some rotation to work.
MUCH better riding position and wrist angle with a bit more leverage with no added vibration (oops I said the "V" word) :doh:
Under $50 for the bars and risers.

Tazman2
11-05-2013, 09:50 AM
I was concerned about drilling for the control pins until I took it apart and noticed they were broken INTO the factory bars but after tightening down everything they aren't loose so life is good! ;)

af240z
11-05-2013, 03:39 PM
To contribute, I installed a protaper 7/8 SE bar on my bandit. It was $63 shipped from amazon. This is the "Honda mini" bend, but if I were to do it again, I would have likely done the Raptor bend which is almost the same, but taller.

http://i.imgur.com/Wm9GodI.jpg

This is the old photo when I first installed it. I rotated the bars down towards the rider a bit and it's more comfortable. The bar is almost straight and wrists don't hurt

I made my own bar end adapters using mostly stock hardware and some fuel line:

http://i.imgur.com/70cGwP1.jpg

I have also removed the center cross bar with foam

http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88582