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MetrickMetal
12-23-2007, 09:23 AM
I am 6' 2" tall, and even though my knees fit within the cutout's on the sides of the gas tank, I felt I would like to have a little less bend in my legs. I had tried raising the seat up, but it made my knees barely fit within the cutouts on the sides of the gas tank, and I did not like how much higher on the bike I sat.

So I discovered that you can rotate the footpeg mounts (items 6-7) in the picture around 180 degrees, which lowers the foot pegs 1 1/2", while also moving them forward about 3/4", and this has made a big improvement for me as in my riding position and comfort, as the top of my thighs were almost parallel to the ground when I was sitting on the bike, and now their at about a 10 degrees angle down.

I went out riding in some twisties yesterday and a pretty good clip, and the pegs did not touch, but I am going to take it out today on some tighter corners and see what happens, but so far so good, and as of right now, I won't be changing it back.

When you rotate the peg mount, you will also have to remove the pivot pin (item 11) for the foot peg, and rotate the foot peg back around 180 degrees also, so the the rubber is back on top.

http://image2.frappr.com/pix2/i/20071223/f/7/7/f775de63f0e9bedab28f520d58070c190_large.jpg

A1A
12-23-2007, 03:15 PM
Scott,

That is a great way to get additional leg room. I also raised the seat for the very same reason.
I wonder if you could post a picture of the pegs on both sides after this Mod?

:rider:

MetrickMetal
12-23-2007, 10:38 PM
Scott,

That is a great way to get additional leg room. I also raised the seat for the very same reason.
I wonder if you could post a picture of the pegs on both sides after this Mod?

:rider:


I'll take a few photos tomorrow and post them up.

bones
12-24-2007, 12:05 PM
Slick! Is there enough adjustment in the shifter and brake to make up for this change?

MetrickMetal
12-24-2007, 01:34 PM
Slick! Is there enough adjustment in the shifter and brake to make up for this change?


Bones,

As a matter of fact I did adjust both my shifter and brake levers, and that along with the lowering of the foot pegs has made it just about perfect for me now over what it was before.

For the brake lever, I adjusted the pedal all the way down until the end of the plunger rod was almost hitting the top of the brake lever, now my foot sits comfortably over the brake lever, without my foot touching it, and is easily actuated, and much better than the stock lever position was.

For the shift lever, I removed the plastic side cover to expose the shifter linkage, and I removed the pinch bolt on the splined shift arm, and rotated the lever clockwise one notch.

I then adjusted the shift linkage rod all the way in on both ends, now the top of my boot sits right below the shift lever, and its muchs easier for me to shift it now than as it came setup from the factory.

If you do decide to rotate the shift arm over one notch, you must adjust the shift linkage rod all the way into both ends, for if you don't, you run the risk of the shift lever hitting the mounting bracket, which could limit the shift lever travel, and cause the trans to not upshift properly.

As it is, with the arm rotated one notch, and the shift linkage rod adjusted all the way in, the front of the shift lever barely clears the the mounting bracket on upshifts, but it does clear, and thats all that matters.

I just took it for a ride up and down the street, and it is truly a pleasure to ride now with the lowered pegs, and readjusted shift and brake, and It also feels as if it shift more easily into first gear now. :rider:

http://image2.frappr.com/pix2/i/20071224/6/1/2/612d1045e1d72643e4eca9ecb9d493220_large.jpg

http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20071224/4/7/c/47c29840fdc0d5bf04863bf649dfd00a0_large.jpg

PhilS
12-24-2007, 01:44 PM
Well - here ya go. They are now flipped. The shifter side took less than 5 minutes. The brake side took 30+ minutes. Reason being was that the bolt on the brake side was cross threaded by the gorillas at Suzuki so getting it out was tough and thus getting it back in was tougher - until I re-tapped and threaded and cleaned it all up. The brake side is also under some pressure in alignment as the pedal is somewhat spring-loaded so it takes a second to align. Another hand would have been handy.

Impressions:

Left Leg - The shifter side felt strange as the peg is now closer to the shifter thus the angle from the top of peg to bottom side of shifter for upshifting is more severe due to the reduced distance - see photo. I need to look at the shifter linkage and think for a moment about raising the shifter without mucking with the shift geometry. There is a turnbuckle of sorts in there (#2 in top photo) that appears to give fine adjustment - I think I need to work with that adjustment later.....

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z62/stearnsp/Shifter.jpg
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z62/stearnsp/DSC01261.jpg
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z62/stearnsp/DSC01263.jpg

Right Leg - The brake side is great.

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z62/stearnsp/DSC01262.jpg
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z62/stearnsp/DSC01264.jpg

Knees on the tank - MUCH improved. My legs were at the point of just toying with the tank cut outs. Now it fits like a glove.

Phil

PhilS
12-24-2007, 02:36 PM
...............cured.

I adjusted the brake plunger rod as Scott said almost all the way to the pedal lever - fits great. I then went one tooth clockwise on the shifter pinch bolt/spline then adjusted the rod until it felt good. And, if I ever wanted to go back, I marked the spline/pinch bolt location and the rod ends were never taken loose so the adjustment is effectively still in sync.

Good mod Mr. ElBandito!! :thumb: :chug: :dude:

bones
12-24-2007, 02:45 PM
Phil are you in the 6' tall range also?

Nice sneeeeeeeakers :-P

MetrickMetal
12-24-2007, 02:47 PM
...............cured.

I adjusted the brake plunger rod as Scott said almost all the way to the pedal lever - fits great. I then went one tooth clockwise on the shifter pinch bolt/spline then adjusted the rod until it felt good. And, if I ever wanted to go back, I marked the spline/pinch bolt location and the rod ends were never taken loose so the adjustment is effectively still in sync.

Good mod Mr. ElBandito!! :thumb: :chug: :dude:

Phil,

Glad my mod worked out for you, and the best part about simple mods like this is, its doesn't cost anything, and I always enjoy being able to share things with fellow riders. :rider:

Have a Merry Christmas and a happy New Years.

PhilS
12-24-2007, 02:52 PM
Thanks for the sneeeeeeeeeekers comment. Those are my clean shoes - I was wearing my normal "bike riding and fixing" dirty ones at the time...much more comfy too. These shoes were for the classy photo-op only as well as to wear to Christmas Eve services and such ;-) .

Yes, I am 6'4" with a 34" inseam - so leg room options were a plus. I tried on a few bikes (919, FZ1, R1200R, and 250 Rebel (just kidding)) before I settled on the Bandit. The R1200R though was a great fit for the legs and body, just not the wallet!!!!:doh:

Lowering the pegs is a nice change.

PhilS
12-24-2007, 02:56 PM
Phil,

Glad my mod worked out for you, and the best part about simple mods like this is, its doesn't cost anything, and I always enjoy being able to share things with fellow riders. :rider:

Have a Merry Christmas and a happy New Years.

Yea - me too. I love it when mods don't cost anything except pulled muscles or bleeding knuckles. Although, doing this at a cloudy 32 degrees here in Ohio is somewhat less desireable than the doubled sunny 64 degree you are experiencing way out there.

Now on to the $30 "17 tooth sprocket mod" to give this beast a bit more bite.

Phil

A1A
12-24-2007, 04:49 PM
Great write up and pictures guy's and thanks for sharing.:clap:

:rider:

MetrickMetal
12-25-2007, 10:30 AM
Yea - me too. I love it when mods don't cost anything except pulled muscles or bleeding knuckles. Although, doing this at a cloudy 32 degrees here in Ohio is somewhat less desireable than the doubled sunny 64 degree you are experiencing way out there.

Now on to the $30 "17 tooth sprocket mod" to give this beast a bit more bite.

Phil

Let us know how the smaller counter shaft improves the off the line acceleration, as I know that Dale Walker says on his website, that it make the Bandit, wheelie fun. :rider:

PhilS
12-25-2007, 10:46 AM
Will do, but I need to order it first which happens when Dale comes back after the 1st sometime..........of course, pictures to follow.

Marc B
02-09-2008, 08:03 PM
Will do, but I need to order it first which happens when Dale comes back after the 1st sometime..........of course, pictures to follow.

If you moved the lever clockwise one notch, doesnt that move the toe lever down, I tried rotating it counter clockwise to raise the toe but the lever at the shaft hits the oil line, so i left it at stock and screwed the adjustment out a little to where i can get my toes under the shifter but its a pretty steep bend for my foot, Am i missing something here? Im not a smart man!

Marc B
02-09-2008, 08:52 PM
If you moved the lever clockwise one notch, doesnt that move the toe lever down, I tried rotating it counter clockwise to raise the toe but the lever at the shaft hits the oil line, so i left it at stock and screwed the adjustment out a little to where i can get my toes under the shifter but its a pretty steep bend for my foot, Am i missing something here? Im not a smart man!

NO-NO-NO, I got it backwards, It raises the toe lever but i cant get the kind of clearance shown at the top of this thread, The shaft lever will bump that oil line but i adjusted the rod out about 2 1/2 turns to get the toe up a little, I think there is still close to a 1/2 inch of thread in the tie rod ends, Does this make since? Thanks for any and all help. SZ.

suzukijo
02-10-2008, 01:23 PM
i did the swap today, here are pics.

after much trial and error, i put the pegs back to normal.
the issue was my left foot not fitting, no matter how i adjusted the shift lever.

PhilS
02-10-2008, 01:45 PM
http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/2098/img0244ss9.jpg


Joe - Is that picture of my shoe on the brake lever on the monitor behind your cat's head? I believe it is. :clap:

You make a good point about the free play on the brake lever - I must check that. Thanks.

Phil

suzukijo
02-10-2008, 01:48 PM
yep, your famous...

suzukijo
02-10-2008, 03:36 PM
i returned the pegs back to stock. adjusting the shift lever as high as it would go, would not allow my foot to fit. proper angle was much lower, still my foot did not fit. i dont have large feet. pegs felt good, being lower, issue was not enough room between lever and peg.

Marc B
02-10-2008, 04:48 PM
Where did Bandito get those chrome swingarm nut covers?

MetrickMetal
02-10-2008, 04:56 PM
Where did Bandito get those chrome swingarm nut covers?

I made them. :rider:

PhilS
02-10-2008, 04:56 PM
He made them. He is a master metal fabricator designer milling billet kinda guy......so it would seem. There are several things on his bike made, modified, and/or polished. Very cool.

Marc B
02-10-2008, 09:19 PM
OK! ditto on the cool, I was just wondering if maybe they were like from --not being a smartelec--we used to pilfer those chrome caps from the urinals and put them on the brake pull knobs in peterbilts, I mean if you didnt know where they come from you would go wow, where,d you get em, Of course we would wash them first, Always looking for an easy chrome trick! By the way I was just looking at oneidasuzuki.com and they are advertising new 07 1250s for 6.999.00 I hate it when that happens.

Marc B
02-10-2008, 09:57 PM
i returned the pegs back to stock. adjusting the shift lever as high as it would go, would not allow my foot to fit. proper angle was much lower, still my foot did not fit. i dont have large feet. pegs felt good, being lower, issue was not enough room between lever and peg.

I may want to put mine back too, Its just too steep of an angle to stab my foot down in there to up shift but the extra leg room is so nice. shame!

Brass
02-11-2008, 05:58 PM
Although I haven't tried this yet, you may be able to get past the shifter problem with the help of a local machine shop.
I think (anyone, please jump in here if you disagree) all you need is a slightly longer shaft between the 2 shifter arms. 1/2-3/4" would probably fix it.
Find a machine shop and ask them to thread a piece of metal rod a bit longer than the stock piece to fit the ball joints and it's done. The cost would be minimal. Just remember that one end will have left-hand threads.

Marc B
02-11-2008, 07:02 PM
Although I haven't tried this yet, you may be able to get past the shifter problem with the help of a local machine shop.
I think (anyone, please jump in here if you disagree) all you need is a slightly longer shaft between the 2 shifter arms. 1/2-3/4" would probably fix it.
Find a machine shop and ask them to thread a piece of metal rod a bit longer than the stock piece to fit the ball joints and it's done. The cost would be minimal. Just remember that one end will have left-hand threads.

I was thinking about that very thing this morn. I hear ya on the left hand thread, I put em back stock for now, Cant stand for anything to be not quite right,

suzukijo
02-11-2008, 07:58 PM
i had repositioned the top lever on the shaft, and adjusted the link rod.
it made no difference. the root problem is not the height of the toe of the shifter, but the lack of clearance between it and the peg.
i wear size 8.

adjusting the toe high, allowed foot to fit, but the total movement of my foot to get to it then is an issue that is unresolvable, save for cutting and shortening the lever.

the other option, is to create some sort of lowering link, to allow the peg perch to remain upright, but lower it.

the brake side, was livable, but cramped also.

the only solution that seemed appropriate without cutting, welding, or remanufacturing parts, was to return it all back to normal.

which is what i did.

MetrickMetal
02-12-2008, 09:13 AM
i had repositioned the top lever on the shaft, and adjusted the link rod.
it made no difference. the root problem is not the height of the toe of the shifter, but the lack of clearance between it and the peg.
i wear size 8.

adjusting the toe high, allowed foot to fit, but the total movement of my foot to get to it then is an issue that is unresolvable, save for cutting and shortening the lever.

the other option, is to create some sort of lowering link, to allow the peg perch to remain upright, but lower it.

the brake side, was livable, but cramped also.

the only solution that seemed appropriate without cutting, welding, or remanufacturing parts, was to return it all back to normal.

which is what i did.

I am quite happy with my lowered pegs and re-adjusted shifter compared to what it was, but it could be improved and one of my projects that I want to do is to design up a complete new set of billet peg mounts that will move the mounting holes for the foot peg brackets down, but not forward, with some adjustablilty to them also in the form of several mounting hole locations. Stay tuned. :rider:

Shock96
04-03-2008, 10:50 PM
Yaa! Bring on those billet pegs. I am looking forward to seeing those.

Mike

MetrickMetal
04-04-2008, 09:11 AM
Yaa! Bring on those billet pegs. I am looking forward to seeing those.

Mike

I'm going to take one of the footpeg brackets off today and take some measurements of it so I can start drawing up the new brackets using my Inventor 3D drafting software.

I'm thinking that I will make them out 3/8" aluminum plate with similar cutouts for the heel guard section to keep the weight down, and I am going to change the shape of the heel guards to give them more of a high tech look. :rider:

MetrickMetal
04-05-2008, 10:14 PM
Well I just finished reverse engineering the left side stock footpeg bracket, and now I am going to play around with the location of the footpeg mounting hole and I going to see if I can possibly use a set of the fully adjustable footpegs from Lockhart Phillips on my new brackets also.

Tomorrow I will pull the right footpeg bracket and draw it up, as it is differant due to the rear brake master cylinder bolts to it. :rider:

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg136/hoggone/Footpegbrackets.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg136/hoggone/Adjustablefootpegs.jpg

Shock96
04-05-2008, 10:17 PM
Looooking goood!

gunzip
04-06-2008, 07:48 AM
Those L-P pegs look pretty cool but being ridgid mount could cause trouble for ground clearance. Pretty solid lever point there especially if lowered much.
I might order another lower shift arm and modify it to fit a little better with the rotated stock mounts ; I need to move my feet forward a little 'cuz my wife wants her pegs moved quite a bit. THAT will be a tricky project , but I have some ideas
Pictures at 11

MetrickMetal
04-06-2008, 10:52 AM
Well I started to think after I drew up my footpeg brackets, that why do I want to make them look a lot like the stock brackets, so I changed the shape of the left side bracket, and this design runs parallel to the angle of the swing arm and the chain, and it actually covers up more of the chain then the stock bracket does. It also allows me much easier access to the preload adjuster on my Works shock.

I printed it out and glued it to a piece of heavy manilla folder paper, then cut it out and the mounting holes out so I could bolt it up to my bike and see what it will look like, and I think it looks better than the stock bracket does, as it really opens up that area of the bike not having the stock bracket sticking up at an angle like it does. :rider:

suzukijo
04-06-2008, 02:03 PM
your design, looks like a mardi-gras mask.

MrH
04-06-2008, 05:25 PM
Buell XB Lightning footpegs installed on '08 Bandit this past week. Lowers a little over an inch and slightly more rearset. Fits my size 12 feet perfectly, and heel guard on Yoshimura prevents contact with the midpipe.

MetrickMetal
04-06-2008, 07:34 PM
Buell XB Lightning footpegs installed on '08 Bandit this past week. Lowers a little over an inch and slightly more rearset. Fits my size 12 feet perfectly, and heel guard on Yoshimura prevents contact with the midpipe.

Do the Buell footpegs fit right into the stock pivot brackets, and how much were they?

rworm
04-06-2008, 07:41 PM
Buell XB Lightning footpegs installed on '08 Bandit this past week. Lowers a little over an inch and slightly more rearset. Fits my size 12 feet perfectly, and heel guard on Yoshimura prevents contact with the midpipe.

tried doing the footpeg reversal to-----12 1/2 foot here so it dont work!!!!!!!
Those Buell pegs look like my kind of stuff

rworm
OH yea,i am glad i dont have LITTLE FEET:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

rworm
04-06-2008, 07:43 PM
[QUOTE=El Bandito;389916]Do the Buell footpegs fit right into the stock pivot brackets, and how much were they?[/QUOTE
It does look like only pegs are offset
rworm

MetrickMetal
04-06-2008, 09:13 PM
Well I am still refining the shape of the left footpeg bracket, and I have whittled the size down even more as well as changing the angle of it a little and I believe that this is probably the design I am going to go with, as after carefully checking what is really needed, it doesn't need to be any bigger than this.

Instead of the top section the heal guard being parallel to the swing arm angle as was the last design, it is now is a couple of degrees up from horizontal when mounted on the bike.

Those are 3 ball mill grooves at the top, and I think that I will paint the bracket with the semi-gloss black paint I have been using, and carefully apply a release agent to the ball mill grooves so that the paint won't stick down in the grooves, so that they will stay aluminum color for a nice contrast. :rider:

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg136/hoggone/Bandit%20Parts/Footpegbracket1.jpg

sproggy
04-07-2008, 07:38 AM
Buell XB Lightning footpegs installed on '08 Bandit this past week. Lowers a little over an inch and slightly more rearset. Fits my size 12 feet perfectly, and heel guard on Yoshimura prevents contact with the midpipe.

Thanks for the pics. Do you notice more vibration than stock? Without rubber inserts and the weight stuck to the bottom (as per stock) this might be an issue?

Looks like a neater solution than rotating the stock brackets, though.

MetrickMetal
04-07-2008, 09:04 AM
Thanks for the pics. Do you notice more vibration than stock? Without rubber inserts and the weight stuck to the bottom (as per stock) this might be an issue?

Looks like a neater solution than rotating the stock brackets, though.

I haven't made the new brackets yet so I don't know what eliminating the rubber bushings will do to as far as vibration is concerned.

So before I commit to making them without the bushings, I am going to install some flat washers on each side of the rubber bushings effectively making the attachment rigid as if there were no bushings and ride it around and see if leaving them out will cause an unacceptable increase in the amount of vibration in the pegs. :rider:

MrH
04-07-2008, 05:38 PM
The Buell footpegs are $25.75 a set (part #N0006.1AD) and very little vibration is felt thru the pegs, if any. All the modification to fit these were done to the pegs only, and can easily be swapped back to the stock ones in just a minute or two if desired.

The Buell pegs are aluminum and measure .965" wide and the Bandit mounting location is only .900" wide. So they had to be ground/filed/sanded to fit within the stock mounting bracket. Buell uses a .437" pin versus the .312" Suzuki pin. I opted to sleeve down the Buell diameter rather than open up the Suzuki mounting hole size. I wanted to keep it so I could easily put the stock pegs back on. The local hardware stores carry stainless and brass tubing in various diameters and 1' lengths. I found a stainless one with the correct .437"OD, a brass tube with the correct .312"ID, and another brass tube with the correct diameters to combine the other two. They all fit snugly inside one-another perfectly. Using Buell footpeg springs is necessary due to the larger diameter, springs are left and right hand, and used on all XB Firebolt and Lightning models. Once ground to the correct size and sleeves fitted the pegs will require material removed where they make contact at the stops, probably about .040" to .050" or until they fit perpendicular to the bike. Finally, adjust shifter linkage and brake pedal to your liking and enjoy.

One personal note, this is the 5th bike of mine that I have lowered the footpegs using Buell parts. As I never stand on the pegs I can't vouch for their strength, especially after grinding over .065" off the top surface. I see no strength issue otherwise, and would recommend persuing some other option such as flipping the stock pegs or fabbing lowered peg carriers depending upon your intended use.

MrH
04-07-2008, 05:50 PM
One more small detail...before you can ride away the side stand tang must be modified or removed. I put a small propane torch to mine about 1/2" above the weld and bent it until parellel with the footpeg and shifter rubber with stand in the up position. Didn't want to lose the ease in which the stand can be raised or lowered.

Brass
04-08-2008, 01:27 PM
El Bandito,

A while back I posted a link somewhere on here showing a set of peg extensions, I'll attach it again below. They are very similar to the LP parts with one exception, they aren't solid mount. No danger of levering the bike off its tire in a corner.
With your access to and skill using machining tools I'm sure you wouldn't have any trouble making a set.

http://www.whaccessories.com/GSGFootPegLowerKit.jpg

Roy
04-08-2008, 01:32 PM
Anyone found a solution to the high rear passenger pegs? wife said they are too high and hit cramps hers knees, she is 5'2" tall:doh:

I've seen adapters for the Concours 14 but nothing for the Bandits. I have the Leo Vince slip-on so I have room to drop since the Leo is way smaller than the OEM can.

Brass
04-08-2008, 01:42 PM
Roy,

With your smaller pipe, these may work with some minor mods. They are the same as the Concours parts.

http://www.motorcyclelarry.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=31


With the stock pipe, I'm going to try a set of Kuryakyn offset mounts. I'm expecting to have to modify the female portion of the mount slightly to make them work. They are on backorder from my dealer for now but once they arrive I'll report back to everyone.

http://www.kuryakyn.com/products.asp?bn=harley&ci=3595

MetrickMetal
04-08-2008, 04:42 PM
I just finished drawing up my new right side footpeg/master cylinder bracket.

After looking at the right side bracket I determined that there is no real need for much of a heal guard on that side, so I decided to make the bracket much smaller so that it will actually show off more of the master cylinder, which I plan on taking off and fully polishing the outside of it, and replacing the black rubber supply line with a piece of S/S braided hose, and eventually a new S/S braided rear brake line.

I am also going to replace the stock mechanical brake light switch with a banjo bolt that has the switch built into it.

I made the shape of the right side bracket to match the left side bracket along with the same 3 ball mill grooves. I plan on milling both of them up on the CNC mill at college in the next couple of weeks. :rider:

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg136/hoggone/Bandit%20Parts/Rightsidefootpegbracket.jpg

Shock96
04-08-2008, 06:27 PM
Woot!

MetrickMetal
04-12-2008, 02:38 PM
I needed to find a way to eliminate the stock mechanical brake light pull switch, as I did not want to have to run it with my new billet footpeg/heal guard brackets I will be making.

So I came up with a novel idea to adapt a regular car type hydraulic brake light switch using a custom made billet adapter manifold, that I attached rear brake master cylinder reservoir using a double length banjo bolt, and it is basically the same with as the banjo end of the brake line.

So I just Installed a banjo washer then the brake line banjo fitting, followed by another banjo washer, my new brake light switch manifold, then the outer banjo washer and torqued the banjo bolt to the factory specs.

I had to cut off the stock brake light switch connector and solder new leads on so that I could install the billet connectors that connect to the terminals on the brake light switch, and now the wires going to the new switch run down the fluid supply hose to the master cylinder and are pretty much hidden from view now.

The new switch works great, and I have used this very same type of brake light switch before on a lot of my bikes to replace the stock mechanical brake light pull switches, and they work great and never need adjusting, and I'ver never had one go bad.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg136/hoggone/Bandit%20Parts/Brakelightswitch003.jpg

While I was cleaning things up in preparation for my new billet footpeg brackets, I decided to modify the stock footpeg/heal guard brackets by cutting off the rear section on each bracket, then sanding, reshaping and repainting them with semi-gloss black paint.

I did this so that the master cylinder would be more exposed, as I thought it would look better smoothed out and polished and not partially covered like it was by the stock bracket. You can see the custom manifold for the new brake light switch pointing up vertically from the top of the master cylinder.

So I completely smoothed out the master cylinder and polished it, and it looks great against the black paint. I really like the looks of the modified brackets, and it gives me a good idea on just who much better my new billet brackets will look on the bike.

The next phase of this project will be machining up the new billet footpeg brackets. :rider:

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg136/hoggone/Footpegbrackets001.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg136/hoggone/Footpegbrackets004.jpg

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg136/hoggone/Footpegbrackets010.jpg

Another couple things I've done to my bike was strip the black paint off of each my rims, leaving the center of the rims black, and replacing all of the bolts for the brake calipers and the lower leg pinch bolts with polished S/S SHCS.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg136/hoggone/Footpegbrackets003.jpg

Eyabusa
04-27-2008, 03:10 PM
Thanks for the tip on the 180 degree rotation of the peg mounts for more leg space. I still need to fine tune the adjustment on the linkage arm but it's not clear to me how to. The service manual says to loosen the lock nut for adjustments but my 2007 doesn't seam to have lock nuts on the ends of the linkage arm. Just ball joints with hex shaped stem end. Lock like it might be a lock nut but it wont twist. I'm afraid to break it if I apply more force. How did you adjust yours?
Thanks in advance.
Erik

dmerc
04-29-2008, 09:25 AM
I still need to fine tune the adjustment on the linkage arm but it's not clear to me how to. The service manual says to loosen the lock nut for adjustments but my 2007 doesn't seam to have lock nuts on the ends of the linkage arm. Just ball joints with hex shaped stem end. Lock like it might be a lock nut but it wont twist.
Erik



They'll loosen....one is left hand thread, it was the lower one on mine, but they may not always assemble 'em that way, since that shaft would be easily reversed.

Anyone consider cutting and rewelding the shifter itself to shorten it up?
I'd like to paint mine black anyhow, so may just do that, since It wouldn't be that noticeable. I like the pegs MUCH better reversed, and I'm NOT putting them back!

whitesands
04-29-2008, 05:26 PM
How much difference can you tell in braking with the steel braided lines ?

MetrickMetal
04-29-2008, 08:43 PM
They'll loosen....one is left hand thread, it was the lower one on mine, but they may not always assemble 'em that way, since that shaft would be easily reversed.

Anyone consider cutting and rewelding the shifter itself to shorten it up?
I'd like to paint mine black anyhow, so may just do that, since It wouldn't be that noticeable. I like the pegs MUCH better reversed, and I'm NOT putting them back!

The shift linkage rod cannot be installed reversed, as to do so would mean that the ball joints would also have to be installed reversed by the factory, as they are permantly attached to each of the linkage arms, so I don't think that thats something that would be likely to happen. :rider:

dmerc
04-29-2008, 08:57 PM
The shift linkage rod cannot be installed reversed, as to do so would mean that the ball joints would also have to be installed reversed by the factory, as they are permantly attached to each of the linkage arms, so I don't think that thats something that would be likely to happen. :rider:

I had to run out and pop one of the boots off, by golly, you're right!

Well in that case, the LH is always on the bottom!:mrgreen:

dmerc
04-30-2008, 09:45 AM
I love the new peg position, so changed my shifter. I cut the weld at the original location, then drilled a hole 1 1/4" forward, drove the pin back in, then welded on the backside.

MUCH easier to shift now, with a slightly shorter throw. Required pressure wasn't affected much, surprisingly.

http://mysite.verizon.net/merc4/s1.jpg

and, chopped off.

http://mysite.verizon.net/merc4/s12.jpg

suzukijo
04-30-2008, 08:36 PM
that would resolve the one issue i had with moving the pegs as suggested above. i put mine back to stock, but this is the best solution to someone who intends to perform this peg movement change.

good idea, pictures tell the story.

Dink.1170
05-05-2008, 04:42 PM
Has anyone tried swapping the pegs side to side?? If they were rotated as per instructons in this thread, then swapped side to side, it should not only lower the pegs but move them rearwards as well, thereby creating the room to not need to mod othe bits like the shift lever.

Dink

MetrickMetal
05-05-2008, 04:48 PM
Has anyone tried swapping the pegs side to side?? If they were rotated as per instructons in this thread, then swapped side to side, it should not only lower the pegs but move them rearwards as well, thereby creating the room to not need to mod othe bits like the shift lever.

Dink


I had already looked at that but due to the locating lugs on each footpeg mount, new slots would have to be milled into each bracket to accept the locating lugs.

dmerc
05-07-2008, 06:15 AM
I'm lovin' my pegs! It's nice that they are moved forward/down.....last thing I'd wanna' do is move them farther back.

The shortened shifter requires more pressure than I originally thought. I expected it to be easier when warmed up, and moving. It's still fine, and actually makes it feel ....what's the word......positive, precise? But, at first, it does feel weird/different. My knees are loving it!:mrgreen:

icemakk
05-18-2009, 11:15 AM
I am 6' 2" tall, and even though my knees fit within the cutout's on the sides of the gas tank, I felt I would like to have a little less bend in my legs. I had tried raising the seat up, but it made my knees barely fit within the cutouts on the sides of the gas tank, and I did not like how much higher on the bike I sat.

So I discovered that you can rotate the footpeg mounts (items 6-7) in the picture around 180 degrees, which lowers the foot pegs 1 1/2", while also moving them forward about 1", and this has made a big improvement for me as in my riding position and comfort, as the top of my thighs were almost parallel to the ground when I was sitting on the bike, and now their at about a 10 degrees angle down.

I went out riding in some twisties yesterday and a pretty good clip, and the pegs did not touch, but I am going to take it out today on some tighter corners and see what happens, but so far so good, and as of right now, I won't be changing it back.

When you rotate the peg mount, you will also have to remove the pivot pin (item 11) for the foot peg, and rotate the foot peg back around 180 degrees also, so the the rubber is back on top.

http://image2.frappr.com/pix2/i/20071223/f/7/7/f775de63f0e9bedab28f520d58070c190_large.jpg

I am definitely going to try this. I tried to increase room by removing the rubber pad and weight. Some increase in room but the rise on the end of the peg made it a bit difficult to just put your foot on the peg. I had to consciously think of moving it in. I may try grinding some of that rise off to make it more flat. Has anyone had success in doing that before I go ahead?

My new boots have great grip so I won't be missing the rubber. No noticeable increase in vibrations thru the foot without them either....but then, it is a Bandit.:rider:

atonic
06-24-2009, 07:51 AM
Buell XB Lightning footpegs installed on '08 Bandit this past week. Lowers a little over an inch and slightly more rearset. Fits my size 12 feet perfectly, and heel guard on Yoshimura prevents contact with the midpipe.

Now, if I could just figure out how to get Buell pegs without going near a harley dealer.

achesley
06-24-2009, 08:08 AM
I'm lovin' my pegs! It's nice that they are moved forward/down.....last thing I'd wanna' do is move them farther back.

The shortened shifter requires more pressure than I originally thought. I expected it to be easier when warmed up, and moving. It's still fine, and actually makes it feel ....what's the word......positive, precise? But, at first, it does feel weird/different. My knees are loving it!:mrgreen:

After a few thousand sMiles, you will be just fine with the shifting. Just preload when shifting. I cut mine about 1 inch back after rotating the footpegs. Felt the difference in my knees first few blocks leaving town about 5 thousand mile back.

abowen500
06-29-2009, 07:22 PM
El Bandito,

I know you started this thread about 18 months ago. Just wanted to say thanks. I just lowered my pegs this afternoon and that small adjustment is going to pay off big. I don't yet feel a need to adjust my shifter. The shifter and left side peg, while closer to each other, are now about equal height so the angle I need isn't so extreme to upshift.

Iamjustifyd
10-26-2010, 10:10 PM
I know I'm bringing up an old thread, sorry. What exactly are you moving 180 degrees? I'm kinda new to all the mods and I'm just not seeing it. The whole mount or just the peg? I have a Bandit 600 but it should be the same. Thanks
I just found it, I'll give it a shot tomorrow. This is a great site, lots of stuff to learn.
Sherry

achesley
10-27-2010, 03:01 AM
Sherry,
Welcome. The process requires turning the bracket upside down, removing the footpeg and rotating it also so the rubberside it back on top. Not a hard job at all. Then you will need to adjust your brake pedal linkage and shift linkage to get them where you feel comfortable with. With my size 12 feet, I ended up cutting about 1" off the foot shifter, drilling a hole, threading it and putting a bolt with a nut backup. Then grinding it smooth.

Tree
05-12-2013, 08:25 AM
Hi. I know this is an old thread but seemed an appropriate place for the question. I was thinking about buying these adjustable pegs on ebay in order to avoid the shifter adjustment when flipping the stock pegs. Wondered if anyone had tried them or something similar and how they worked.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Suzuki-Front-Rider-Adjustable-Foot-Pegs-GSF-1250-650-Bandit-07-08-11-/300833612571?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ABandit|Submodel%3A1250&hash=item460b14a31b&vxp=mtr



1 Pair (2 pcs)
- Turns your stock footrests (rearsets) into adjustable footrests
- Inexpensive option compared to aftermarket adjustable rearsets
- When mounted on the motorcycle adjustments can be made in seconds
- Place more weight towards the front or rear of the bike based on positioning
- Shorten or lengthen your leg room based on positioning
- Provides extra grip over stock footpegs
- Retains your stock folding footpeg mechanism
- Allows for 12 different mounting positions (moves in a 360 degree circular motion)
- Based on rider and motorcycle, not all positions are optimal
- Interlocking teeth design to ensure secure positioning
- This Model is 25mm extension

achesley
05-12-2013, 09:23 AM
Looks pretty neat. I would wonder about the strength of the unit for the amount of standing I do on rough roads or just to give the rear end a rest.

Stretch30
05-13-2013, 10:39 AM
Looks like a great idea, would like to hear thoughts on them after the install.

gunzip
05-13-2013, 10:32 PM
Looks pretty nice , actually looks stronger than some of the shaved and modded buell pegs a lot of people run with no issues .
Knee pain is really limiting my riding right now , having a partial knee replacement in June hopefully after recovery , I'll sure hope to be able to ride in comfort again . I would hate to have to do something horrid like trade the Bandit in on a cruiser !! :eek2: :eek2:

Tree
05-14-2013, 06:45 AM
I asked a friend who is a machinist and motorcycle mechanic. He though they were probably not robust (to put it politely), the lack of any rubber was an issue, and that the right peg could unscrew when stood on. He tends to be right most of the time, so I'm going to pass on them and look for another design.

Stretch30
05-14-2013, 08:12 AM
In the video, there appear to be pins to ensure they don't rotate when tightened. Would be good to get MetrickMetals opinion.