Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! 
Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to 520 miles - OK, it started raining this morning and I wanted to "putter", as my wife puts it - in the garage. I manage to ride about 80 miles this morning before the change. As soon as I hit 500 miles, took a few gentle excursions up to the 7K RPM zone - holy shikiesssss! SCARY acceleration! Absolutely smooth at that RPM too!
Anyway, let her sit for an hour in the garage before the oil change, long enough so the exhaust pipes were cool enough to drape a pastic bag over them while taking the oil filter off (what a convoluted process!!!!). I happen to have large channel lock pliers, so trying to manuever a filter cap and socket wrench in there to loosen and tighten a filter was uneccessary. Drained the oil, loosened and drained the oil filter. You have to remove the filter from the left side of the bike (if you were sitting on it), and carefully move the radiator hose. Trying to get it out the right side is impossible.
Dumped a tad of Kawasaki 10W-40 M rated (non-synthetic) oil into the filter to get it wet, lubricated the filter gasket, and cleaned the gasket seat on the engine block and installed it. Hand tightened it (as tight as you can get it with your hand, which is not much), then carefully put the padded (towel) jaws of the channel locks on it to give it a good twist without bending the filter.
It took almost the four full quarts of oil, post change. Started it and let it run for a few minutes initially, when I first put the oil back in it came up to the full mark on the window - don't be fooled by this. On initial startup and run (about 3 minutes) after the change, I let it settle for the recommended three minutes, and the level was below the "L" mark. Put in more oil to the "F" mark, started it and let it run for 5 minutes. Turned it off and looked again after 3 minutes - SPOT on the "F".
Old oil was actually pretty clean coming out, and there was very, very, very little metal bits on the magnetic portion of the drain plug. Wiped that off.
Be sure not to over-tighten that drain plug (owner's manual says 14.5 lb ft.). There are horror stories all over about people tightening with a large wratchet and cracking their blocks!!!! Especially with Suzuki engines, for some reason.
No pix of the change or the installed GIVI - my camera is dead (wife dropped it and it won't power up). Another $300 bucks I guess.
Anyway, let her sit for an hour in the garage before the oil change, long enough so the exhaust pipes were cool enough to drape a pastic bag over them while taking the oil filter off (what a convoluted process!!!!). I happen to have large channel lock pliers, so trying to manuever a filter cap and socket wrench in there to loosen and tighten a filter was uneccessary. Drained the oil, loosened and drained the oil filter. You have to remove the filter from the left side of the bike (if you were sitting on it), and carefully move the radiator hose. Trying to get it out the right side is impossible.
Dumped a tad of Kawasaki 10W-40 M rated (non-synthetic) oil into the filter to get it wet, lubricated the filter gasket, and cleaned the gasket seat on the engine block and installed it. Hand tightened it (as tight as you can get it with your hand, which is not much), then carefully put the padded (towel) jaws of the channel locks on it to give it a good twist without bending the filter.
It took almost the four full quarts of oil, post change. Started it and let it run for a few minutes initially, when I first put the oil back in it came up to the full mark on the window - don't be fooled by this. On initial startup and run (about 3 minutes) after the change, I let it settle for the recommended three minutes, and the level was below the "L" mark. Put in more oil to the "F" mark, started it and let it run for 5 minutes. Turned it off and looked again after 3 minutes - SPOT on the "F".
Old oil was actually pretty clean coming out, and there was very, very, very little metal bits on the magnetic portion of the drain plug. Wiped that off.
Be sure not to over-tighten that drain plug (owner's manual says 14.5 lb ft.). There are horror stories all over about people tightening with a large wratchet and cracking their blocks!!!! Especially with Suzuki engines, for some reason.
No pix of the change or the installed GIVI - my camera is dead (wife dropped it and it won't power up). Another $300 bucks I guess.
GO take some pictures anyway 
