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etcthorne
01-13-2008, 10:37 AM
520 miles - OK, it started raining this morning and I wanted to "putter", as my wife puts it - in the garage. I manage to ride about 80 miles this morning before the change. As soon as I hit 500 miles, took a few gentle excursions up to the 7K RPM zone - holy shikiesssss! SCARY acceleration! Absolutely smooth at that RPM too!


Anyway, let her sit for an hour in the garage before the oil change, long enough so the exhaust pipes were cool enough to drape a pastic bag over them while taking the oil filter off (what a convoluted process!!!!). I happen to have large channel lock pliers, so trying to manuever a filter cap and socket wrench in there to loosen and tighten a filter was uneccessary. Drained the oil, loosened and drained the oil filter. You have to remove the filter from the left side of the bike (if you were sitting on it), and carefully move the radiator hose. Trying to get it out the right side is impossible.

Dumped a tad of Kawasaki 10W-40 M rated (non-synthetic) oil into the filter to get it wet, lubricated the filter gasket, and cleaned the gasket seat on the engine block and installed it. Hand tightened it (as tight as you can get it with your hand, which is not much), then carefully put the padded (towel) jaws of the channel locks on it to give it a good twist without bending the filter.

It took almost the four full quarts of oil, post change. Started it and let it run for a few minutes initially, when I first put the oil back in it came up to the full mark on the window - don't be fooled by this. On initial startup and run (about 3 minutes) after the change, I let it settle for the recommended three minutes, and the level was below the "L" mark. Put in more oil to the "F" mark, started it and let it run for 5 minutes. Turned it off and looked again after 3 minutes - SPOT on the "F".

Old oil was actually pretty clean coming out, and there was very, very, very little metal bits on the magnetic portion of the drain plug. Wiped that off.

Be sure not to over-tighten that drain plug (owner's manual says 14.5 lb ft.). There are horror stories all over about people tightening with a large wratchet and cracking their blocks!!!! Especially with Suzuki engines, for some reason.

No pix of the change or the installed GIVI - my camera is dead (wife dropped it and it won't power up). Another $300 bucks I guess.

suzukijo
01-13-2008, 11:40 AM
for my first couple oil changes, i didnt have the new dia filter wrench, so first oil change was just oil no filter. second change i used a hose clamp on the filter, tightened so i could gently tap the srew head from the side, till i could grab it and unscrew it. it really didnt need to be overtightened as it came stock, but since then i bought the stock filter wrench, an odd size.

one tip is to use some aluminum foil over the pipes instead of plastic, it keeps the pipes clean, doesnt melt, can be easily shaped to funnel the oil to where you want, and you probably have some in the kitchen drawer just waiting to be used. some stainless polish, on the pipes, keeps the gold color away.

the reason the drain plug is so easy to overtighten is because of the suzuki steel sealing washer. most other manufacturers use aluminum, in that location.
i have a gallon of mobil one waiting for the next oil change.
each oil change, everything gets better, smoother idle, easier shifting, quieter engine running, better clutch action, blah, blah.

any one find a source for smaller chain kits?

Brass
01-13-2008, 03:45 PM
any one find a source for smaller chain kits?

I was wondering about that myself. Here is what I've found. The Bandit seems to share the same rear sprockets with the '07 GSXR1000. The front sprockets only differ in the number of teeth, stock is 18 on the Bandit where the GSXR has 17. So a 520 conversion set for the GSXR should work on the Bandit as long as you provide enough chain length and select the gearing to match.

If anyone finds that I'm wrong on this please jump in and correct me.

Bandit part list
http://sunstar-mc.com/searchresults.aspx?All=True&DD0=STREET&DD1=SUZUKI&DD2=GSF1250S&DD3=2007-08

GSXR1000 part list
http://sunstar-mc.com/searchresults.aspx?All=True&DD0=STREET&DD1=SUZUKI&DD2=GSX-R1000&DD3=07-08

txbanditrydr
01-13-2008, 05:29 PM
So the stock Bandit comes with a 530 chain... and you want to put on a 520 chain???? - on this torque monster??? :wary: :huh2: :scratch: :shrug:

Roy
01-13-2008, 05:48 PM
So the stock Bandit comes with a 530 chain... and you want to put on a 520 chain???? - on this torque monster??? :wary: :huh2: :scratch: :shrug:

It will work no problem people do it all the time on the GSX-R1000's to race with. Buy a good quality chain with a high tensile strength, no issues afterward.

kirbykajin
01-13-2008, 08:39 PM
It will work no problem people do it all the time on the GSX-R1000's to race with. Buy a good quality chain with a high tensile strength, no issues afterward.

they also change them pretty often because they stretch under all that power... I think the 530 is more suited for the long haul because of the mileage it will offer over the 520.

Roy
01-14-2008, 07:16 AM
they also change them pretty often because they stretch under all that power... I think the 530 is more suited for the long haul because of the mileage it will offer over the 520.


Not so.

I've had a whole season on 520 chain on a 1000 no problem what so ever. Like I said earlier buy a cheap chain and the old saying holds true "you get what you pay for". Buy a good quality chain DID etc. and it will last. Trust me a Bandit 1250 is not going to destroy a chain I own both bikes and a GSX-R1000 will eat a Bandit 1250 for lunch with a plug cap pulled off.:eat:

hetkind
01-14-2008, 02:11 PM
Showed a young man how to change the oil on his 06 Suzuki Kantana 600 yesterday. He previously used a local dealer for service...

while trying to remove the canister filter, it was awfully stubborn and we found TWO gaskets had been used. I guess a previous gasket had stuck to the bike and was left in place on the last oil change. Then we found the engine was overfilled with oil, chain was loose and rusty, and the bike wouldn't start until you would yank UP on the right handgrip!

Plus the front tire was totally bald and the rear was severely flat spotted, and bald in the middle, all at only 6,400 miles.

We will have the next remedial motorcycle maintenance once he brings new tires over...

Howard

Nofear
01-14-2008, 02:47 PM
Good write up but no pictures.... :eek2: GO take some pictures anyway :rofl:

Brass
01-14-2008, 03:40 PM
Not so.

I've had a whole season on 520 chain on a 1000 no problem what so ever. Like I said earlier buy a cheap chain and the old saying holds true "you get what you pay for". Buy a good quality chain DID etc. and it will last. Trust me a Bandit 1250 is not going to destroy a chain I own both bikes and a GSX-R1000 will eat a Bandit 1250 for lunch with a plug cap pulled off.:eat:

Roy,

Since you own both bikes, can you confirm (or disprove) that the rear sprocket from the GSRX will fit the Bandit. The search I did showed me a match in part numbers but that doesn't always guarantee a part will fit.

Roy
01-14-2008, 03:49 PM
Roy,

Since you own both bikes, can you confirm (or disprove) that the rear sprocket from the GSRX will fit the Bandit. The search I did showed me a match in part numbers but that doesn't always guarantee a part will fit.

Yes both front and rear off the '06 1000 will fit on the Bandit 1250. Stock rear on the 1000 is a 42T and the stock front is 17T. I currently have a 16T on the front of my 1000:eek2: I would like and extra tooth on the rear of the 1000 to compliment the 16T on the front, tracks I ride are tight no need for top end. Yes it will wheelie a little:rider: