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View Full Version : 1250 Warranty Only Items


PhilS
02-13-2008, 08:43 AM
Guys:

In a few months I will be at the end of my 1 yr warranty. The only issue I had was cosmetic on the chain guard. They replaced it without question.

I noticed Trey said he had some minor warranty issues he needed to look at (specifically some stiching I think). I am curious wha the other issues are.

What "warranty" items have you all seen? This may be a way to get us looking at things we've missed before our warranty runs out.

Thanks - Phil :rider:

treybrad
02-13-2008, 09:11 AM
Good idea Phil, my warantee will be up in June...

The stitching on my seat, on the right side where it meets the tank (but doesn't touch or rub), has started to come undone. It's only about 1/8" right now, but I can see the foam underneath, and I'm sure it will only get bigger. I don't know if it was just a bad job at the factory, or what, but it's too early to be considered wear and tear I think.

The only other thing that I need to look at is my front brakes... They don't pulse or anything, but I need to examine the pads for even wear. At slow speeds, if I'm next to a wall especially, I can hear the pads dragging on the rotors. That's normal, but the sound isn't constant... it gets louder and softer like you would expect with a warped rotor. Think, "ssh, ssh, ssh, ssh, ssh." The oscillation will increase the faster I go, and stops if I touch the brake lever.

It isn't BAD, but I don't think it's normal, not for a bike with less than 10,000mi on it.

I'm curious to see what others have noticed...

trey

PhilS
02-13-2008, 09:17 AM
Thanks - I hope this helps us get free stuff (which is good) before we actually have to pay for it (which is bad) when it really should have been free during warranty (which would be way bad!!).

My fronts, after 3400 miles, are still making the shzzzz sound when applied. I was expecting that to go away after a thousand or so. Other than that, life is good.

Phil

treybrad
02-13-2008, 09:30 AM
My fronts, after 3400 miles, are still making the shzzzz sound when applied. I was expecting that to go away after a thousand or so.

Eh, I think the "whirrrr" noise is normal. I've had cars with drilled rotors like the Bandit that made the same sound, some pads exaggerated it more than others. This is my first bike that I've noticed the noise though...

trey

Roy
02-13-2008, 09:50 AM
Floating rotors up front, noise is totally normal and will be there the life of the bike. Rotors center up on the buttons under breaking and that is the bzzzz sound. I think is sounds cool.:mrgreen:

No issues to date on my Black '07 "S" almost 5k miles on it. My warranty runs through July 21st 2008.

bones
02-13-2008, 11:39 AM
I have a 5 year ext. I am not too worried :D

PhilS
02-13-2008, 11:50 AM
I have a 5 year ext. I am not too worried :D

But the real question is, have you had any warranty issues to date? Trying to build a list of "broke" stuff.

rworm
02-13-2008, 12:05 PM
Good idea Phil, my warantee will be up in June...

The stitching on my seat, on the right side where it meets the tank (but doesn't touch or rub), has started to come undone. It's only about 1/8" right now, but I can see the foam underneath, and I'm sure it will only get bigger. I don't know if it was just a bad job at the factory, or what, but it's too early to be considered wear and tear I think.

The only other thing that I need to look at is my front brakes... They don't pulse or anything, but I need to examine the pads for even wear. At slow speeds, if I'm next to a wall especially, I can hear the pads dragging on the rotors. That's normal, but the sound isn't constant... it gets louder and softer like you would expect with a warped rotor. Think, "ssh, ssh, ssh, ssh, ssh." The oscillation will increase the faster I go, and stops if I touch the brake lever.

It isn't BAD, but I don't think it's normal, not for a bike with less than 10,000mi on it.

I'm curious to see what others have noticed...

trey
My seat /same exact place/took back and showed/new seat on no problems:clap: -This was when bike was about 2 weeks old



rworm

kinkead26
02-14-2008, 09:29 AM
I hate to bring this up, but I was just revisiting the mega thread and I read about the Happy 1250 Owner's story about the blown engine again.

I am sure some of you are well past the 4000 mile mark. Has anyone heard or seen anything else come from this? My warranty is up in June and I am debating about just purchasing the extended 3yr.

treybrad
02-14-2008, 09:31 AM
I hate to bring this up, but I was just revisiting the mega thread and I read about the Happy 1250 Owner's story about the blown engine again.

I am sure some of you are well past the 4000 mile mark. Has anyone heard or seen anything else come from this? My warranty is up in June and I am debating about just purchasing the extended 3yr.

Just a troll. I've got almost 9,000mi on mine now and no issues mechanically whatsoever.

trey

PhilS
02-14-2008, 09:37 AM
I hate to bring this up, but I was just revisiting the mega thread and I read about the Happy 1250 Owner's story about the blown engine again.

I am sure some of you are well past the 4000 mile mark. Has anyone heard or seen anything else come from this? My warranty is up in June and I am debating about just purchasing the extended 3yr.

+1 on that as well. I am not over 4K, but "Happy dude" never repsonded to PM's, open discussion on the thread, or anything. I have heard of nothing since his insane rant. He logged on several times after he started this panic, but never responded.

Onward :rider:

MetrickMetal
02-14-2008, 12:36 PM
I'm happy to say that I have had no problems with my 1250S, and I am at 5800 miles, and it just keep running better and better. I pulled the plugs at around 5000 and they were clean as a whistle. :rider:

kinkead26
02-15-2008, 11:11 AM
Thank you for the quick responses. Boy do I love riding the bandit. I must say that red IS faster.

KenB
02-15-2008, 07:43 PM
Fantastic idea for a thread, Phil! Subscribed.

gunzip
02-15-2008, 08:24 PM
I'm hoping I don't have a problem with mine, trouble is it won't hardly downshift after it gets warmed up .m After about ten miles of riding when i pull up to a stop I have to row the clutch lever to get the thing shifted back down into first. I only have about 300 miles on her hoping this looses up and goes away. I will take the linkage apart and lube every thing up , maybe change the adjustment a little . Any ideas ?

rworm
02-15-2008, 08:30 PM
I'm hoping I don't have a problem with mine, trouble is it won't hardly downshift after it gets warmed up .m After about ten miles of riding when i pull up to a stop I have to row the clutch lever to get the thing shifted back down into first. I only have about 300 miles on her hoping this looses up and goes away. I will take the linkage apart and lube every thing up , maybe change the adjustment a little . Any ideas ?

So are you coming to a complete stop in3rd-4th-maybe 5th gear then trying to downshift to 1st?????????????????

Dont start taking apart yet(wow some wisdom)


rworm

PhilS
02-15-2008, 08:48 PM
Mine did it too for the first 1000 miles or so then it all lossened up adn it went away. Fear not........

suzukijo
02-15-2008, 08:48 PM
i'm with worm.

you must downshift as your still rolling.
to make life easier, i use my heel. some say thats goofy, too rough on parts, but once you try it, you might find that your heel is not as dumb as you think, or as clumsy.

also, after a couple downshifts and slowing, my foot is put out front to place on tarmac, sometimes i think its a hangover from dirt bikes.

i must admit, i ride goofy, so it may not work for you. (the heel thing)
but waiting till your stopped will not allow the transmission to shift properly, unless you slip the clutch and or rock the bike back and forth, its physics.
i also encourage positive shifting. a strong forceful shift, either up or down, does not harm the trans.
wearing tenny shoes, and gently working the shift lever is about the worst thing you could do.

one thing you can do is to practise downshifting and upshifting while rollling along at 30 mph. you can hear the clik, clik, clik, and whirring noises, and become comfortable with working the lever.
if ever when you upshift, and it stays in the same gear, you did not shift completely the shift before.

i hope this doesnt get all attacked, but a strong solid shift, up or down, is not harmful to the trans.
oh, .....i always use the clutch, you should too. i blip on upshifts, this maybe needless, but i do it anyway.

gunzip
02-16-2008, 01:13 AM
no its hanging up as i roll to a stop, but sometimes it doesn't do it at all

MetrickMetal
02-16-2008, 08:48 AM
no its hanging up as i roll to a stop, but sometimes it doesn't do it at all


Your bike should always be moving when down shifting, which keeps the gears in the trans turning which allows the trans to be shifted easily, and if you wait until you come to a complete stop or almost to a compete stop, and then try and down shift the trans, your going to have the problems your having, and your owners manual even states that the bikes need to be moving while shifting. You may want to take a few minutes and read the section in your owners manual on shifting. ;-)

TWTourist
02-16-2008, 09:20 AM
I also think this is a great idea. With only 6,000 miles on my Black Bandit I have zero problems.:mrgreen:

As for the the shifting thing, I agree with suzukijo......he rides goofy.:rofl: But he is right you must shift firmly up or down. Always use the clutch for down shifting. Up shifting ????? I blip my clutch and gas to shift.

gunzip
02-17-2008, 09:11 AM
Your bike should always be moving when down shifting, which keeps the gears in the trans turning which allows the trans to be shifted easily, and if you wait until you come to a complete stop or almost to a compete stop, and then try and down shift the trans, your going to have the problems your having, and your owners manual even states that the bikes need to be moving while shifting. You may want to take a few minutes and read the section in your owners manual on shifting. ;-)

come on guys give me a 'little' credit:giveup:
its as balky to downshift at 50 mph as at 10 .
I'm going to try the 'el bandito' peg swap mod later today and see if moving a spot on the spline and getting the adjustment rod more in the middle of the range might help. It's adjusted about all the way up now and I wonder if might be in a slight bind

suzukijo
02-23-2008, 10:02 PM
i tried the peg swap, and found i had to move the top arm one notch. i also found there was no way i could live with the lever being 2 inches closer to the peg, with no room for my foot, no matter where i put the lever. but, some have different views, and what works for me may not work for you.

i think i got sidetracked by your "rowing the lever" statement, meaning to me, you needed to pull it in, let it out, pull it in, let it out, all the while downshifting. this makes no sense to me?

by the time i stop rolling, my bike has been in neutral for some time, and i coast to a stop. zzzzzzzzzzzrrrrrrrrrrrr. i cant imagine trying to find neutral from a higher gear, while stopped and not rolling. sometimes i go back to first, then to neutral, no problem.

so far, i've been lucky enough to only have to have panicked stopped once, and besides the bike swerving from me having to modulate the brakes, pulling in the cluth and trying to not lock the engine, stalling the engine, was business work for me at the time. i did not buy the abs, and after that thought maybe i should have.

since then, i have practised stopping quickly, a few times while on a familiar road with good clean asphalt, and although i thought the brakes wooden when new, panick stopping will lock the front end. try it.

did you notice any improvement from lubing all 5 pivots.