Bandit 1250 17-Tooth Sprocket

So - I ordered mine today from Dale......yep $33 delivered. I plan on taking some shots of the install and posting here in a week or two. Hopefully my front sprocket area will be a spotlessly clean as Suzuki Joes when I'm done!!! That's what PJ-1 SuperCleaner is for.

If anyone has a comment on the change out, post away. I looked for a thread on this subject and found nothing - other than what is embedded in the MEGA THREAD.

Onward....

As much as I would like to do this I am resisting since by doing this you will increase cruising RPM's by about 300 rpms. I use my 1250 primarily for long trips so a relaxed motor is more important to me. I did the -1 down on the GSX-R1000 and love it but I use it for the track 95% of the time so mileage and rpm's don't matter on it. Also the smaller the front sporcket the sharper the bend o nthe chain which will excelerate chain wear but a 17T is pretty much standard equipment on 90% of the bikes 750cc and larger so no biggy there. That 18T front is a weird one I can only think of 1 other bike that has that stock, Triumph Speed Triple. Suzuki was really trying to take the ummph out of this big long stroke I4 by adding that 18T front. One other tidbit before I go, the 17T will set your chain adjustment farther back and if your 1250 is like mine it only came with 4 marks left brand new so that 17T will leave you with about 2 marks and a 1/2 left for adjustments. I personally thing +1 or +2 up on the rear would be the best bet and it would bring the rear axle closer in. Only downfall of a moving the axle closer in (which is not always best) would be a bit more wheelie prone and it might throw off the handling a little. A longer wheelbase is always more stable than a shorter one. On a GSX-R1000 the further back the axle the safer you are on that beast. Suspension guy always told us back when I was racing get that rear axle as far back as you can, I will never forget him preaching that. Of course those were twitchy sportbikes to begin with.

PhilS said:

If anyone has a comment on the change out, post away. I looked for a thread on this subject and found nothing - other than what is embedded in the MEGA THREAD.

Onward....

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I changed mine out last weekend. It was a pretty straight forward swap. I did however have one minor mishap.

Brass said:

*NOTE*

To anyone changing your front sprocket. If you remove the clutch slave cylinder from the sprocket cover make sure you either clamp the cylinder (inner bucket) in place or secure it in some other manner. Residual pressure in the system will slowly force the cylinder out of it's body making a huge mess on your office floor (if that's where you store your bike).

Best choice is to leave it bolted to the sprocket cover.

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The bucket ended up being pushed out of the housing very slowly while I was talking with my boss, who was waxing his Harley parked in the lobby. I caught it before the entire system drained but it still made a mess on the carpet here in my office.

Will you be installing a SpeedoHealer or have you already added one to the bike?

If you tie the clutch lever to the bar the piston in the slave cyl. will not work its way out while you have the assembly off the bike. A tip from a former V-strom 1000 owner BTW its in the V-Strom service manual to do it this way not sure why it is not covered in the 1250 service manual. Suzuki oversight maybe.

Roy said:

If you tie the clutch lever to the bar the piston in the slave cyl. will not work its way out while you have the assembly off the bike. A tip from a former V-strom 1000 owner BTW its in the V-Strom service manual to do it this way not sure why it is not covered in the 1250 service manual. Suzuki oversight maybe.

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So what are you saying? Do I need to tie the clutch lever in or let it out like normal?

Brass said:

Will you be installing a SpeedoHealer or have you already added one to the bike?

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$100 on the healer....not sure if I want to go this route just yet. It's off 5 or 6% from stick now and the 17 tooth will add another 5 or 6% I'm sure. So at 70 indicated, I will really be doing about 60 plus racking more miles than reality. We'll see.

PhilS said:

So what are you saying? Do I need to tie the clutch lever in or let it out like normal?

.

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Yes, or watch the piston closely so it won't ooze out when you remove the Clutch slave cyl. I have done it both ways in the past. I have tied the clutch lever to the bar (engaged) and I have removed the cyl. without doing it but the piston will start oozing out ever so slowly. Sounds crazy to engage the clutch to remove the cyl. But trust me it is covered in the V-Strom 1000 service manaul and the 1000 has the same setup, hydraulic clutch. I still am not sure why the 1250 manual does not cover this part, I chalk it up to a Suzuki oversight which if you have had as many as I have this type thing happens pretty often. I have removed the cyl before and simply taped the piston opening so it would not pop out. Either way the point here is to not let it come out while the cyl. is detached. If that happens you will be doing the clutch bleeding afterward. Don't over anylyze this it won't come rushing out the minute the last bolt comes out so you have time to work with what ever works best for you.

PhilS said:

racking more miles than reality. We'll see.

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That is already happening according to my GPS verses miles traveled. GPS miles traveled always is correct in my truck but not on any motorcycle I have owned since riding with a GPS attached.

Roy said:

Yes, or watch the piston closely so it won't ooze out when you remove the Clutch slave cyl. I have done it both ways in the past. I have tied the clutch lever to the bar (engaged) and I have removed the cyl. without doing it but the piston will start oozing out ever so slowly. Sounds crazy to engage the clutch to remove the cyl. But trust me it is covered in the V-Strom 1000 service manaul and the 1000 has the same setup, hydraulic clutch. I still am not sure why the 1250 manual does not cover this part, I chalk it up to a Suzuki oversight which if you have had as many as I have this type thing happens pretty often. I have removed the cyl before and simply taped the piston opening so it would not pop out. Either way the point here is to not let it come out while the cyl. is detached. If that happens you will be doing the clutch bleeding afterward. Don't over anylyze this it won't come rushing out the minute the last bolt comes out so you have time to work with what ever works best for you.

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Great answer. Sounds like you've been doing this a while. Me? I sell airplanes and ride for fun on the weekends so I rarely get tear things up like this.

Later...

page 599 of the manual, explains the reason the piston comes out by itself. also page 5C-11, pg 604.
spring. this takes the play out of the lever, and the clutch can certainly handle the pressure. the brakes cannot therefore dont have one.

tying the clutch lever in, closes the circuit, stopping fluid flow by closing the inlet and capturing the fluid amount.

i think el bandito and rworm have debated the fluid dynamics thing in another thread. no need to go over that here.

while on this thought, taking the brake lever off, if you have the calipers off for a long time, keeps hand flickers from working the brake pistons out the caliper while the bike sits. its just one bolt. neat idea.

i would have never thought someone would have let the clutch lifter sit unbolted so long it allows the piston to fall out, but stanger things have happened.

windman, how can i grab pics off the manual and post?
sheesh, how would i grab a page and put that in a folder?

i can use a hammer, (daveC, heres your chance to post hammer),
but admittedly i am computer stupid...

doh!

Manual on PDF has camera looking icon at top. It is a select to clip board tool. Outline with the tool what you want by holding in the left mouse buton and dragging, then let go and it snaps a photo to the clipboard. Then go into paint or something and paste it and save it as a jpg. Then post it somewhere.

There ya go.

uh no camera looking thing on mine?
just where would that be?

sorta like me saying, "yeah drop the motor and yank tha cams", "got it".


sheepishly admitting, i know nuthin about computers.

Sorry....

Try this.

messing around i found this, but drop dragging, and copying, when i go to twt message, the paste is in ghost?



the snapshot tool allows me to make a box, and copy it, but where it goes?

i'm just dumb......

it will be in the virtual memory of your computer.

Open a program such as paint and then EDIT---PASTE---SAVE AS---SELECT .JPG

then you need to post it on the web such as http://www.imageshack.us/

and then copy the url of the image and post it here

Suzukijo hold your arrow over the image, right click, go to save picture as and then save, look at the top of the save box and it will tell you where it will be saved, this can be changed by clicking on the arrow and a drop box will apear the image normally showes up in (my pictures) or (my documents)

Sorry I may have miss read what you are trying to do, are you wanting to save pictures or images from a web page and then post them or just save them to your computer?

I installed my Sunstar 17 Tooth Front Sprocket today. I bought it from Dale for about $25 delivered. Unfortunately it's raining so no testing until it's dry. Because a few of you asked, here is the 20 photo blow by blow.

#1 - Clamp the clutch


#2 - Remove the side cover


#3 - Remove the shift linkage and speed sensor sender


#4 - Loosen the voltage regulator top two screws - DO NOT REMOVE


#5 - Remove the clutch thingy....


#6 - Remove the sprocket cover plate and screws.


#7 - Jam the rear wheel from the top so you don't torque against the transmission.


#8 - Remove the sprocket speed sensor


#9 - Remove the Front Sprocket - Good Lord this was tight!!!!


#10 - Loosen the rear wheel and move it forward


#11 - Remove the washer and sprocket


#12 - Re-install new sprocket and washer


#13 - Jam the rear wheel from the bottom this time and torque the sprocket - also remove the chain guard for a good look at things while you adjust the chain later.


#14 - Re-install the speed sensor


#15 - Re-install the voltage regulator bolts and tighten the top two. As well, re-install all the side plate and clutch thingy bolts.


#16 - Re-install the gear shift linkage and the speed sensor sender.


#17 - Release the clutch clamp


#18 - Re-install the side cover and clean it up.


#19 - Adjust the chain for 1" slack and torque the rear wheel to 75 ft lbs (actually 72.5). Check it on the side stand - although it does not seem different on the center stand


#20 - Re-install the chain guard. Then go test it out!!!


All in all - very straight forward and took maybe an hour. Only headache was popping the sprocket free. I did not have an impact wrench would have helped a bit. I'm sure my back will be fine after a few visits to the chiropractor!!!!

Great write-up, Phil. Thanks for taking all of the photographs and the step-by-step instructions. I can hardly wait for the report on the "shakedown cruise."

I posted this in Dale's place on Max Suzuki......
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I installed the 17 tooth today and agree with all the comments above on performance, ease of install, etc, etc, etc. But I also am experiencing the louder whine/scraping sound from the sprocket area. I rechecked everything and even looked for metal dust - but found nothing wrong. I relubed everything and loosened the chain, but it's still there. I can especially hear it when I drop it in neutral at say 40mph and coast. When I load it up it's gone, but when coasting I can hear the noise DirtDad mentioned at the beginning of this thread (in Max Suzuki). Perhaps the lack of the rubber factory damper is the culprit, eh?

Also, I am now indicting 55mph and GPS'ing 49mph. Thus, unfortunately for my wallet, a speedo healer is in my future.
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Overall - a really good change - y'all should do it.

Phil (from the north)

GregH said:

Great write-up, Phil. Thanks for taking all of the photographs and the step-by-step instructions. I can hardly wait for the report on the "shakedown cruise."

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+1

So - after a 20 mile test today I am really happy I did this.

One thing I like is the low end peppyness as the RPM's come up quicker now - so coming out of turns does not require the downshifting I used to do.

The ringing I am hearing appears to be a direct result of the difference in the stock rubber dampened front sprocket as opposed to the solid metal aftermarket version. The green ring pictured here is the rubber damper on both sides which also contacts the chain inner edges - all in all I would guess in an effort to keep things quiet. It did and the new one does not. But like all sounds, I will get used to it happening from time to time and it will disappear as things get dirty or my mind blanks it out.

Again - this is a good cheap "free horsepower feeling" mod well worth the $30 and the morning messing with your bike - which is always time well spent.

One last thing, this sprocket is after 3800 miles and cleaned up with PJ1 supercleaner - the greatest cleaner on earth.

I bought DW's 17T'er a couple months ago and also ordered the Speedo-Healer at same time. In fact, I sent HealTech the Bandit 1250 install instructions with pics for their website; it's now posted on there (David M. is yours truly).

Results: Yup as mentioned, the bike is much noisier particularly when decel'ing or coasting, BUT the bike just plain old jumps when you touch the throttle. If you're "just" into touring or daily commuting, I'd advise leaving the 18T'er in with all that torque, BUT if you love the fun/performance factor in biking, the 17T is way to go.

The SH install goes very quickly. You absolutely need correction on the odo after the primary change. I'm using -15% for now (to "erase" some of the extra miles piled on with factory's mechanism) even though the speedo is now reading about 4-5% slow; a local cop agreed to use his radar gun to clock me at indicated 45mph; he had me at 47mph. After I reach next oil change, I'll reset the SH's correction factor to approx -11%.

Just a comment on an old thread but it might help someone. There is no need to clamp the clutch lever to the handlebar. Even though the push rod may not go all the way in on reassembly, just install the inner sprocket cover first, then put on the clutch cylinder and finger tighten the retaining bolts first, going top to bottom alternately. The do the final tightening with the socket/wrench and you are good to go.

The service manual is correct after all, there is no need to bleed the clutch if you don't clamp the clutch lever to the handle bar. It is a sealed system, there is no way to introduce air into it unless you compromise the seals or banjos. If you need to bleed the clutch fluid after a sprocket change, check for leaks or loose banjos because that might be the problem.

Also, when removing and reinstalling the VR and clutch cylinder, make sure you also connect the plastic retainer which holds the clutch hose in position relative to the VR. If you don't see one there (underneath the lower right side of the VR) then you might want to get one and put it in.