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1250 check engine problem, won't start

W

windman

Guest
It happened 4 times.Once last fall, once 2 weeks ago and twice last week.

Turn on the key and the tack make it's calibration but you don't ear all that FI noise it's normally doing. The CHECK appeared on the speedometer like when you hit the kill switch.The starter can turn but the engine don't light up.after a few times ...it's starting for 2 or 3 second and failed again...a few more time like that and then it's ok...for a while
The kill switch is at the normal position
The gearbox is in neutral
The side stand is up
The clutch is depressed

I check the kill switch for bad connection, the side stand switch, the gearbox neutral connector...

I was able to bring it to the dealer with the problem active. He tried and no success like me. He keep it to plug the computer on...and when he tried to start it with the computer on...the F....er did light up..it never did it again at the dealer. The found 2 O2 sensor faults and one fuel pump ....but nothing that could cause this problem.

Yesterday it did it for the first time while the engine was running...at idle at the light...I cycle the ignition switch and it started again.

Anybody had something similar?
 
It happened 4 times.Once last fall, once 2 weeks ago and twice last week.

Turn on the key and the tack make it's calibration but you don't ear all that FI noise it's normally doing. The CHECK appeared on the speedometer like when you hit the kill switch.The starter can turn but the engine don't light up.after a few times ...it's starting for 2 or 3 second and failed again...a few more time like that and then it's ok...for a while
The kill switch is at the normal position
The gearbox is in neutral
The side stand is up
The clutch is depressed

I check the kill switch for bad connection, the side stand switch, the gearbox neutral connector...

I was able to bring it to the dealer with the problem active. He tried and no success like me. He keep it to plug the computer on...and when he tried to start it with the computer on...the F....er did light up..it never did it again at the dealer. The found 2 O2 sensor faults and one fuel pump ....but nothing that could cause this problem.

Yesterday it did it for the first time while the engine was running...at idle at the light...I cycle the ignition switch and it started again.

Anybody had something similar?

May I guess? Maybe the ignition switch has multiple contacts with one set going bad????????
 
Oooh, that sounds bad...

If you don't have any success replacing components, my home remedy for everything is Di-electric grease. Any connector you've disconnected, or may have gotten weathered, road salted, etc. is a candidate.

Use a toothpick to apply to each pin in the connector. A little dab will do ya (too much is bad!)

It's the recommended cure for all things German, i.e. can-bus.
 
Do you have a tipover sensor? Mine went bad on my V-Strom and behave in a similar fashion.
 
Do you have a tipover sensor? Mine went bad on my V-Strom and behave in a similar fashion.

Don't all 1250's have this TO Sensor? I believe it is located next to the ECM under the seat. If this malfunctions it kills everything..............kinda like you're experiencing. I am not near my bike right now, but is this it???

TOS.jpg
 
Don't all 1250's have this TO Sensor? I believe it is located next to the ECM under the seat. If this malfunctions it kills everything..............kinda like you're experiencing. I am not near my bike right now, but is this it???

TOS.jpg

Yea thats it and it has to be sittin in its cradle
Drum switch does sound like a good candidate/keep us posted
rworm
 
Take it back to the dealer. Plug in the SDS interface cable/laptop to the bike and retrieve the code(s) from DTC. It really is that simple, not to suprised teh dealer does not know most do not. The SDS on modern Suzuki's has left the shade tree types in the dust. SDS originated from Suzuki's automotive side. It can tell you what the bike was doing at time of failure, rpm, water temp and many other things. Once the key is switched off after you encounter a problem you must retrieve the code from the ECM and the only way you can do that is through SDS. After you have the code go from there. This bike is an electronic gadget so you will need a ohm meter and volt meter along wit hshop manaul to start chasing the problem at the various sensors.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
I'm with Roy on this one, take it to the dealer. You may still have some warranty left on it so why not use it.
On Saturday I seen someone having a similar problem with an '08 GSXR1000. The bike would turn over but made no attempt to start, a couple flips of the kill switch and it started. Perhaps a bad contact in the switch?
 
I agree with the tipover sensor theory. I assume you don't hear the fuel pump during the check? Being in the mount correctly certainly matters, but I'd have the dealer put a known good one on for a while. Or get a wiring diagram, and disable it temporarily. That's something a Dealer may refuse to do.
 
It has been a month now that the dealer found the problem...but I was not convince. But now the problem never came back...so I guess they were right. They found beginning of corrosion in the kill switch connector that was out of underneath the fuel tank exposed to bad weather.:clap:
 
Wow! Corroded terminal plugs. Reminds me of my cousins '82 Suzuki 1000G when we were returning from a trip to Colorado in '83. Started running worst and worst till we just had to take it apart at a motel in Kansas. Corroded Terminals on the Coils was the problem. I had already greased all on my '82 XV920RH. < to me one of the better bikes Yamaha ever built but no sales here killed it. >
Dilectric grease is your friend. It don't matter what language your bike speaks. ;-). I do this as routine maintenance on any bike I buy. As I come acorss a plug in, take it apart and grease it. Also waterproofs it.
 
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