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Roy
06-08-2008, 08:49 AM
I put my bike on SDS yesterday and cleared the two error codes I had with the FI recently. Seems it was the O2 code C44. Dales bypass has went bad on me so I removed it. Calling him monday to see if he will sell or swap me out a new one. Meantime I tried to adjust the TPS since it was off according to the on dash info. I set it correctly but the bike ran poorly low idle and popping out the exhaust. So it seems my bike came with the throttle bodies out of sync and the TPS adjusted to mask the problem. Bike runs okay as is but it bothers me the TPS is about a half degree out. Currently its at 27 degrees should be 27.9 degrees. So I am buying a motion pro carb tuner so I can sync the throttle bodies and set my TPS correctly. The paint on the TP adjusting screw had never been tampered with so it came this way. No problem really it only makes the bike surge a bit at 3500 rpm with the state of tune its in now with the O2 connected. The O2 bypass seemed to mask the problem. I suspected from day one the throttle sync was out on this bike. Another tale tale sign was when it was on SDS the idle was up and down 100 rpm or so which is more precise than the tach neddle which is steady. The SDS is a pretty good software but its not a fix it all you must have some mechanical knowledge of the parameters. It is primarily a diagnostics software, just tells you what was going on at time of problem and what currently is going on throughout the system. So in short my O2 bypass went out (it was intermittant with it problem comes and goes) ECM is back re-mapped to stock settings and O2 re-connected. Still got the surge at 3500 on light throttle openings. The sync will solve this and I will most likely keep the O2 connected to retain good fuel mileage since I commute on the bike everyday. I'll keep this thread updated. I should have the sync tool by weeks end and tackle the sync next saturday.

So if you have the surge go into dealer mode and check the on dash readout it should look like this "-C00" not like this "_C00" or with the bar above the "C". Bar should be in the middle of the "C".

Arbee
06-08-2008, 10:10 AM
In all honesty i was surprised to see this thread topic, after coming off BMW
Boxer engines where valve clearances & throttle body sync is a way of life
and should be undertaken regularly, i didn't think the Bandit was affected as easily as that...

TPS adjustments are not for the faint hearted as it is very easy to stuff it up
without expert knowledge

cheers arbee

KenB
06-08-2008, 03:03 PM
TPS adjustments are not for the faint hearted as it is very easy to stuff it up without expert knowledge

cheers arbee
I envy you guys that have mechanical skill. I'm proud of myself when I'm able to install a Stebel horn or Dale's Stage 1 kit and have the bike still start and run normally afterwards :pray: Me thinks I'll pass on the TPS adjustment and throttle body sync stuff, whatever the heck these things are :eek: :lol2:

PhilS
06-08-2008, 03:47 PM
I envy you guys that have mechanical skill. I'm proud of myself when I'm able to install a Stebel horn or Dale's Stage 1 kit and have the bike still start and run normally afterwards :pray: Me thinks I'll pass on the TPS adjustment and throttle body sync stuff, whatever the heck these things are :eek: :lol2:

I have found my equal!!!! I was nervous pulling off the fuel cannister stuff!

The TB Sync stuff does make sense, but I have been told basically not to even bother checking it unless there are some "engine running" issues such as bad idle, rough take-off, etc, etc. So at 7500 miles, I think I'll stick with the oil change only as the bike is smoooooooooooooooth...............and I'll save a few bucks.

windman
06-08-2008, 05:03 PM
So if you have the surge go into dealer mode and check the on dash readout it should look like this "-C00" not like this "_C00" or with the bar above the "C". Bar should be in the middle of the "C".

what does it mean if the bar is down like this _C00 ?

sproggy
06-08-2008, 05:08 PM
In all honesty i was surprised to see this thread topic, after coming off BMW
Boxer engines where valve clearances & throttle body sync is a way of life.......

TPS adjustments are not for the faint hearted as it is very easy to stuff it up
without expert knowledge

If TPS setting is as easy on the Bandit as it was on all the BMW boxers I had before then I'm a happy man. As you say - valve clearance, throttle body sync and TPS check are a way of life with the boxers (every 1500 miles or so in my case, just to keep them spot on). I can't see it'll be any different with the Bandit - a decent multi-meter will do the job fine. Having said that, I haven't checked the factory manual yet.

I plan on doing my own throttle body sync as I don't trust a dealer to take as much care as I would. That was always the case with BMWs and I'm sure Suzuki dealers are no different. Same goes for TPS setting - if you want it done properly, do it yourself. The only reason the dealer's getting a look at my bike is because of the warranty (7,500 mile service on Tuesday). As soon as that's up I'll do all the work myself.

Roy
06-09-2008, 06:40 AM
what does it mean if the bar is down like this _C00 ?

your TPS is out of adjustment.

Roy
06-09-2008, 06:43 AM
If TPS setting is as easy on the Bandit as it was on all the BMW boxers I had before then I'm a happy man. As you say - valve clearance, throttle body sync and TPS check are a way of life with the boxers (every 1500 miles or so in my case, just to keep them spot on). I can't see it'll be any different with the Bandit - a decent multi-meter will do the job fine. Having said that, I haven't checked the factory manual yet.

I plan on doing my own throttle body sync as I don't trust a dealer to take as much care as I would. That was always the case with BMWs and I'm sure Suzuki dealers are no different. Same goes for TPS setting - if you want it done properly, do it yourself. The only reason the dealer's getting a look at my bike is because of the warranty (7,500 mile service on Tuesday). As soon as that's up I'll do all the work myself.

Well said. The TPS is not hard to set on the Bandit but with throttle bodies out of sync its a mute point until they are balanced. Valve adjustments are no harder I've done many a V-Atrom twin in the past and single cylinder dirtbikes where cams have to coome out. My GSXR's never seem to lose and adjustment, weird. I am not sweating the details the Bandit runs okay but it could be better and considering the _C00 on the dash is not the preferred setting then I will go forth and correct it now instead of later.

Roy
06-09-2008, 06:45 AM
In all honesty i was surprised to see this thread topic, after coming off BMW
Boxer engines where valve clearances & throttle body sync is a way of life
and should be undertaken regularly, i didn't think the Bandit was affected as easily as that...

TPS adjustments are not for the faint hearted as it is very easy to stuff it up
without expert knowledge

cheers arbee

I have sync'd the throttle bodies on V-Strom twins in the past with ease this should be no different.

treybrad
06-09-2008, 01:39 PM
The TPS was set way off on most SV650's, so this is a pretty common thing to do with them. It made a big difference when I did mine...

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=55459&highlight=throttle+position+sensor

I haven't checked mine yet, is the process pretty much the same? Do you short the same two pins in the dealer connector, I'm not sure if the bikes share the same plug style. Anyone know what RPM the -C00 is supposed to hop up to the top?

I'll probably tackle TPS/Vavle Check/TB Synch this summer. I'm at ~14k miles now, and it runs fine, so I'm in no hurry.

trey

achesley
06-09-2008, 01:53 PM
[QUOTE=
TPS adjustments are not for the faint hearted as it is very easy to stuff it up
without expert knowledge

cheers arbee[/QUOTE]

I find all of them much simple compared to the 4 carbed bikes with the individual throttle cables of the late 60's and early 70's. Now , they were fun. ;-).... I still even have my mercury manometer from from then in some corner of my old shop, I think? ;-).. And since I can't use the Twin Max on either of my bikes at present ;-( ...

Roy
06-09-2008, 02:03 PM
The TPS was set way off on most SV650's, so this is a pretty common thing to do with them. It made a big difference when I did mine...

http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=55459&highlight=throttle+position+sensor

I haven't checked mine yet, is the process pretty much the same? Do you short the same two pins in the dealer connector, I'm not sure if the bikes share the same plug style. Anyone know what RPM the -C00 is supposed to hop up to the top?

I'll probably tackle TPS/Vavle Check/TB Synch this summer. I'm at ~14k miles now, and it runs fine, so I'm in no hurry.

trey

Same procedure. On the 1250 plug it is the two pins to the right of plug facing it with plug release clip on top. You can check this without the bike running just have the key on and on/off switch on. Jump the two pins wait a second and look at the dash where the trip/odometer reading is at. should read -C00. I played around with the TPS with SDS saturday in graph form on the laptop, mine was at 27 degrees throttle closed wide open it was 108 degrees. Optimum setting was suppose to be 27.9 degrees closed but it would not run good at that setting, poor/low idle and popping at steady throttle opening at 3500 rpm sitting still. So I concluded very quickly that the throttle body sync was off. The shop did not have a sync tool, new dealer so yep they do not have all the tools. I have a homemade manometer at home but it is for twins, I owned two V-Stroms and the 1000 was always getting off sync. This homemade thing won't work on my multi. I odered the motion pro carb sync tool this morning and will have it thursday afternoon. I had to turn my TPS adjustment screw one full turn clockwise to get my bar in the middle of the "c" but like I said it ran poorly when I did that so I set the screw back to stock (easy to do since it was paint striped from the factory). I checked my GSX-R1000 TPS for giggles and it was spot on the money but I suspect the sync is off on it since it has a vibration at certain rpm's. I plan on setting it soon as I get the motion pro tuner. Keep in mind once you sync you must check/re-set your TPS in most cases. The both work together.

On a side note I contacted Dale Walker about the defective O2 bypass I have and he referred me to Dobeck Performance for replacement. They are sending me a new one as soon as I return the defective one. I should have that in about a week or so but I may try and get the bike to run right with the O2 hooked up. That would be nice since the fuel mileage would certainly be better and lord knows we need all the help we can get with $4 bucks a gallon gas and rising.

Roy
06-13-2008, 08:08 AM
Well the sync job did not go as planned. I got the Motion Pro sync PRO in yesterday afternoon. Hooked it up proceeded to crank the bike and the fluid sucked right up into the lines instantly. I never got passed the part where you sync the tool for the job. I called Motion Pro and spoke with a tech, seems my serial number on my unit is a bad one with a hg rating not suitable for a big multi engine or a outboard engine.:giveup: So he is sending me a new unit but I would not have it until next friday they are in Ca. I am in Ms., sucks. So I called a longtime friend mechanc who used to be the guru Suzuki mechanic locally, still is only he works for a kawi dealer now. I told him the problem and he offered to loan me his Suzuki vacum ball sync tool the official tool used in the service manaul. So I am to swing by his place this afternoon and pick it up. I should get a result tonight once I tear into the bike again. What really pains me is I spent $105 bucks on that Motion Pro piece of junk made in china of course and once I took it apart and looked at how its made I concluded the replacement won't be much better. Cheap piece of junk is all I can say. I may return for it for a refund once I get the actual replacement unit next week. I may keep it though since its more trouble than its worth to ship it back I have a pre-paid UPS return label. I really wanted to own one since I suspect my 1000 is out of sync also.

Roy
06-13-2008, 10:46 PM
okay its done and I will lay money down that I have the smoothest running Bandit 1250..................STOCK!!

Thats right folks stock, go buy the TFI, PC and do the O2 bypass yosh box thing but it all comes down to this,,,your bike was not properly tuned from the factory...PERIOD!! No more surge anywhere and it runs so smooth words cannot descride it. No roughness around 5k or 3500 rpm's anymore.

Let me describe this to the ones not following it so far. My bikes ECM is at stock settings currently, O2 is connected so we are closed loop once warm. My TPS from the factory was an astonishing 3/4 turn off:eek2: which in turn made a correct throttle sync almost impossible to achieve. What I did was and I stress here read you service manual it is spelled out, I set my TPS, -C00, took 3/4 turn to bring it to this. You must be in dealer mode to do this! okay now the fun part, I hooked the sync tool up to #1 vacum port to sync the tool to my bike. This must be done really accurately. It comes in to play later. Once this is done connect all the sync tools hoses to the vacum ports, go into dealer mode, unplug the ISC plug per manual. Now crank the bike, its gonna be running bad but proceed. Adjust the air mixture screws to achieve balance on each cylinder. Once this is done kill the bike, reconnect the OEM vacum hose and ISC plug. Crank the bike it may idle a bit high for the 1st 10~20 miles, don't worry the ECM is learning the new setup/map. More air in now means it must adjust. Once it gathers its needed info you will notice the idle will resume the 1200 rpm mark. If not no big deal simply do to the dealer and plug in the SDS interface and re-set the idle. Chances are you will not have to do this. The bike is smart, very smart.:trust:

Okay now that I shared that how to with you all here is the bad news. My bike was so out of whack from the factory its a wonder it even ran at all. My TPS was 3/4 tuns off to the low side, my air screws on #2~#3 were basically bottomed out. After the adjustments the bike is totally different. Completely smooth all the way to redline in fact I used to shift on the vibration pulses can't do that anymore. Now for some background on what I have done for 12k miles on ttis bike. I had a Dale Walkers O2 bypass, Yosh box re-map +5% on the low and believe it or not it ran pretty good but it sooted up the tailpipe blew black smoke and used a little oil. It ran good though but seemed fat in the map. That is when I started reading learning about the operating system and discovered all I was doing with a rich condition was masking a simple adjustment issue. The TFI is good but something I never heard Dale mention is did he check the throttle body sync or did we just take that as done? Sure any master tuner should do this right? No so many do and you would be suprised to find that out as I was. Trust me when I say this, Suzuki ASSEMBLES motorcycles they do not tune them. That my friends is left up to the dealer tech to do if and when you come back with a complaint. If you got a smooth 1250 to begin with, good for you mine was a surging nightmare from the get go and I now know why, it never has been tuned properly. BTW I have a 1000 sitting in the corner of the garage that is next, very rough at 5700 and 7k rpm's, its the sync its out.:trust:

If anyone has any questions regarding this please feel free to ask me as I am sure alot of you are riding around with some poorly tuned bikes as I was. Pouring more fuel on the fire will mask the problem but not solve it. I am checking on the purchase of the SDS software and interface cable tomorrow to put on a laptop. I figure I will need it in the future on any Suzuki so money well spent IMO.

KenB
06-14-2008, 07:57 AM
Roy - it sounds like you are very pleased with the changes from your tune-up. I'm in no way qualified to do the work that you have performed. If I were to approach the dealer and request that this work be done under warranty, how would you suggest I best describe the symptoms, the display code, and the solution. Thanks in advance.

Roy
06-14-2008, 08:35 AM
Roy - it sounds like you are very pleased with the changes from your tune-up. I'm in no way qualified to do the work that you have performed. If I were to approach the dealer and request that this work be done under warranty, how would you suggest I best describe the symptoms, the display code, and the solution. Thanks in advance.

Ken 1st thing you can do is remove the right side cover. You will find a white plug with a rubber cap. Take the rubber plug cap off as you are looking straight at the plug you will see to the far right two plugs pin holes. Take a paper clip (I know I have been blasted about this elsewhere but trust me it has been around for years on Suzuki's) stick it in the two right hand side plugs holes. now turn the key on making sure the on/off switch is on. Now look at the dash where the trip meter is you will see hopefully a -C00 come up anything else like this _C00 or with the bar above the C your TPS is off. Since your not comfortable doing the actual adjustments now you have your case. Take it to the dealer and request the TPS to be set if its not correct (-C00 is correct BTW) and sync the throttle bodies while they are at it. They may charge you since this is classified as a maintenace item just depends on your relationship with your dealer. They will/should be using SDS instead of dealer mode so you will get to see alot more things that need or may not need adjusting. SDS is a dianostics tool similar to the automotive industries setup. It is a realtime tool. 1st step is to check the TPS I am curious as to how many have the missaligned unit such as I did this could explain the ones that surge and the ones that do not. Throttle valve sync is required at 7500 miles I did not do it then, my bike has 12,200 on it now. It has run bad from day one except when I masked the issue with an enrichment map and O2 bypass. If you were closer I would love to take a look at it but you ain't exactly across the street:mrgreen: Switching into dealer mode as I suggested is easy and trouble proof. This is the same way you retrieve a code if you get a light or something on the dash like when a problem arrises. I am not the best writer so please all bare with me on this as I will try to explain it in a easy to understand format. The service manual is written for the tech minded people and can be a bit hard to follow in places.

KenB
06-14-2008, 08:40 AM
Well, the diagnosis sounds easy enough. But if I get anything besides -C00, I'll need to head to the dealer. My bike has Dale's complete Stage 1 kit installed. Would the TFI box affect this code at all? If I get any other code and take it to the dealer, is it advisable to remove the TFI box and 02 bypass module first? I'm guessing they would just tell me that the mods are causing the problem...

Roy
06-14-2008, 08:53 AM
Well, the diagnosis sounds easy enough. But if I get anything besides -C00, I'll need to head to the dealer. My bike has Dale's complete Stage 1 kit installed. Would the TFI box affect this code at all? If I get any other code and take it to the dealer, is it advisable to remove the TFI box and 02 bypass module first? I'm guessing they would just tell me that the mods are causing the problem...

The TFI should not affect any readings on the dash. A -C00 just says your TPS is okay as far as adjustment goes and you have no current error codes. It does not tell you how out of whack the throttle body sync is. My guess is if you had surge before the TFI install then yes the sync is definetly off proceed to the dealer and request a throttle body sync. Make sure they actually perform it and here is the clincher if your tech is not qualified your end product will only be as good as he was. Balancing throttle bodies take time and patience not eveyone will get the same result due to a number of things ie: improper balancer tool adj. sync, rushed job or just a lack of know how. I have been doing this for years, the old V-Stroms drove me nuts with the constant imbalance. Your TFI enrichment will mask a driveability issue just like my Yosh remap did but will not mask what a tech will see once he hooks up the balancer to sync the TB's. Syncing the TB's is like adding new plugs at a prescribed interval on a big multi engine it is a must do thing periodically more so important with this closed loop setup which runs lean to begin with. The Bandit is one of the easiest bieks to do this on that I have come across so far. Another thing to ponder is at the valve check the balance shoudl be perfromed also since tight vavles will affect the balance. My valves are quite noise so I seriuosly doubt mine are tight I don't even plan on checking the valves until close to 20k miles and that will be time to re-check the TB balance then anyway.

Roy
06-15-2008, 09:48 AM
Logged 300 hard miles on the bike yesterday, running hard 90+ mph GPS speeds, over a 100 mph several times, mixed highway mostly with some spirited backroad running, 44 mpg!!:eek2: Serious headwinds while on the southerly freeway rides. I do not ride slow so this number is outstanding since before I would have struggled to get 38~40 mpg. There is still a slight and I do mean slight on off surge at very light throttle openings at cruise speed. Usually right after having the throttle pinned for miles then roll off then back on lightly. I can live with it. This is the O2 planing I suspect. The mileage is impressive and with gas at $4 bucks a gallon and climbing this is good very good. Parking lot speed chugging is apparent in 2nd gear (shouldn't be in 2nd gear at this speed anyway) but I am sure that is normal with the OEM lean maps. It pulls like a rapped ape up top now before I could roll on hard and if I let off the throttle a bit it would speed up, not now it continues to climb and pull hard all the way to redline. Bottom end top gear roll on passing is good. I went and connected the bike to SDS yesterday to clear the -C13 code you create by doing a dealer mode sync. You do not have to clear this code it is stored under DTC but while I was there I went ahead and cleared the ECM's memory. I like a tidy shop. I went through all the information to see if it was all in order, sure enough the idle is at what is was from the factory and throttle position was 27.5 degrees, would have liked to see 27.9 here but I may tweak that next week when my replacement balancer gets here. I don't think the few tenths of a degree will make it any better or worse just me getting anal with this that is all.

I am quite happy with the results. My tailpipe has began to clear up from the sooty black it always was to more of a chalky grey color inside with black rim tip now similar to my 1000. I was running way too rich before with the throttle bodies being out of whack and the TPS off and me having a fat re-map to compensate all that.

I should have my replacement O2 bypass in a week or so and I may install it so see what if anything changes. I suspect the slight on off surge will be gone with that installed but I am still leery of what map state the O2 bypass locks the ECM in, seems no one will tell me that supplies these items maybe they just do not know. Either way its a 5 second ordeal to plug and play with it. I also plan on re-checking the TB sync with my replacement motion pro balancer by weeks end just to compare the fluid type manometer job with the ball vacum unit job I originally did the work with.

I bet I get 50 mpg commuting on it this week:mrgreen:

KenB
06-15-2008, 04:16 PM
Very interesting comment about MPG, Roy. I wonder if this might have something to do with the disparity in MPG reported by so many Bandit owners. I regularly get 48-50 MPG and I'm not exactly babying it. Perhaps the guys that are getting high 30's and low 40's are in need of throttle sync / TPS adjustment?

Roy
06-15-2008, 09:24 PM
Very interesting comment about MPG, Roy. I wonder if this might have something to do with the disparity in MPG reported by so many Bandit owners. I regularly get 48-50 MPG and I'm not exactly babying it. Perhaps the guys that are getting high 30's and low 40's are in need of throttle sync / TPS adjustment?

That is exactly what I have been thinking also Ken. It would be worth a check if anyone is getting sub-par mileage, its so easy to do. Be for warned the TPS has about a 1/2 turn on the screw of adjustment where it actually will appear correct on the dash but actually a few tenths of a degree up or down utilizing SDS to analyze it exactly. I advanced my TPS a few more tenths of a degree today, much better down low no more chugging in the parking lot. Outstanding burst of acceleration in the mid range, WOW my GSXR-1000 better watch out, well maybe not that good:mrgreen: I have all but gotten rid of the slight on off light surge I mentioned earlier. This thing actually rides/runs pretty dang good and its all stock except for the Leo Vince slip-on pipe. throttle blips are so cool now brap, brap almost sounds like my 450 at times.:lol2: I got another steady 43 mpg today running my usual brisk pace. If I would slow down I am good for at least 48 mpg I just know it.

I am done tinkering for now until I get my replacement balancer guages later this week. I'll update as need be.

PhilS
06-15-2008, 10:26 PM
Roiy:

I am having trouble finding the screw to adjust TPS in the manual and on the bike.

To start with - my bike runs well, gets 47mpg at 80mph on longer freeway runs, and is relatively smooth at 1500+ all the way up. For kicks, I set it into dealer mode and got the -C00 as you indicacte. BUT, if it were out, where the heck is the adjuster screw? Can you supply a photo maybe?

Thanks man.

Phil

PhilS
06-15-2008, 11:00 PM
More confusion:

It would appear on other models that the adjustment is loosening the unit by the two mounting screws and twisting it. Is that true here as well while reading Ohm 1 and Ohm 2 readings?

Roy
06-16-2008, 06:44 AM
More confusion:

It would appear on other models that the adjustment is loosening the unit by the two mounting screws and twisting it. Is that true here as well while reading Ohm 1 and Ohm 2 readings?

phil on the 1250 the TP adjustment is by a screw. Remove the tank look down between #2 and #3 thottle body right where the throttle cables go in you will see a screw with a spring under it, the TP screw is hidden under the throttle wheel. 10 mm nut with a allen key in the center should have white paint on it. The TP sensor on the 1250 is a combination unit unlike previous models with the torx screw loosened you twist the actual sensor not so on the 1250. Idle is adjusted by a step motor which you will see also under the middle of the throtle bodies, idle can only be set with SDS link. They do not discuss this secret TP screw because they simply do not want you messing with it since it a major player in EPA tuning. They briefly mention it in throttle body disassembly section of the manual. If you have -C00 right now chances are at 7500 miles just check you TB sync and keep rolling. That was not the case on my friday built bike.:doh:

My GSX-R1000 is a '06 not a complete SDS bike as the '07s are. You adjust the TP on it at the sensor by twisting it once you have the torx screw loose. I checked it and it was spot on but it only has 4k miles on it. I do plan on checking the TB sync on it soon though.

PhilS
06-16-2008, 07:46 AM
Thanks a ton.

I am at 5000 miles and have the rest of the season to get to 7500. I will be looking into the local shops to find a great "tuning guy" who will look at the TPSensor/TBSync via his SDS link at next service.

Thanks for the tips - nice write ups.

Roy
06-16-2008, 10:26 AM
Thanks a ton.

I am at 5000 miles and have the rest of the season to get to 7500. I will be looking into the local shops to find a great "tuning guy" who will look at the TPSensor/TBSync via his SDS link at next service.

Thanks for the tips - nice write ups.

Good luck finding anyone who works at dealership who understands SDS. These people are living on borrowed time IMO. Eventually alot of out of whack machines over time will begin to show up at their front doors and in reality all they need is a simple tuning but to do that you must understand how these things work and what makes then tick. Electronics!! I think Suzuki is aware of the pending big problem. Last week when I contacted them in an effort to speak with a technical person they told me I could not I had to go through the dealer channels. I explained to them that was not going to work very well due to the lack of knowledge issue lcally. He offered to fly a qualified tech to my dealers location and tune my bike. I said thanks but no thanks I ride it everyday (primary transportaion) and I could not be down for two weeks time waiting on something I felt I could fix if I had some basic info I felt was left out of the manual. He logged my call as a complaint. I told him I was not bashing anyone but did feel they need to do more training at the dealer level. We agreed that was not totally the answer since most shops pay low and the employees are a revolving door.

I think I may borrow the dealers laptop with SDS this week and keep it over night. General Manager there has offered that option to me since I live 50 miles away from the shop and he drives by my house on his way home everyday. Might as well they are not using it for anything. Service manual on the 1250 seems a bit vague in some areas to me. I have read a few of my older bikes manuals and they seem a little clearer. Alot of miss-spelled wording in the 1250 manual also, not that means much towards it being informative but it just tells me it was thrown together quickly.

sproggy
06-16-2008, 10:29 AM
Alot of miss-spelled wording in the 1250 manual also, not that means much towards it being informative but it just tells me it was thrown together quickly.

Probably more likely it was written in Japanese and then translated by someone with a less than perfect grasp of the English language.......and no decent spell-checker :-)

Roy
06-16-2008, 10:32 AM
Probably more likely it was written in Japanese and then translated by someone with a less than perfect grasp of the English language.......and no decent spell-checker :-)

could be wright :mrgreen: there, didn't think of that.

whitesands
06-19-2008, 10:12 PM
nice info...

coupe930
06-19-2008, 11:13 PM
Wow. 29 postings and only 3 of them (including this one) are from Texas. Three of the first 6 are from outside the U.S.

Two Wheel Texans indeed. Texas is bigger than I thought, but then everyone says that Texas is a state of mind.

Patrick McDonaldhttp://www.twtex.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_razz.gif
:-P

Roy
06-24-2008, 10:30 AM
Spent 4 hours on SDS last night with the Bandit. I have learned alot about this software. My bike is running as good as it ever will in stock trim. It was way off the mark in several throttle body settings from the factory. I am monitoring a possible ISC valve problem but I have recorded it with my dealer for possible warranty claim even though my warranty expires in a month. The problem with the ISC seems to be intermittent and not constant. A high idle at times. After using SDS last night I wish I could cough up the $600 clams for it plus a laptop to run it on. It is pretty slick with some of the graph over lays you can do on it. You can also save out your files on it to the laptop for future comparisons later on down the road. Much easier to sync with the SDS than just dealer mode. Since the 1250 has no temp guage you must sync between 176 and 212 degrees, easy to go over that without a guage which complicates the sync job. SDS provides realtime temp which makes it easier.

Case closed on this until I have to sync again or have a true definet problem with the ISC valve.

achesley
07-01-2008, 08:09 AM
Okay Roy, a few questions.
Does unplugging the vacuum stuff on #1 to hook up the hoses for for sycn work cause any FI malfuctions to light up?. If doing this at home do we really need the unit to complete the job? . I'm sure my dealer would not be as kind as yours on lending me his high buck tools. I am hoping that I just have to pull the tank up, unplug the factory stuff on #1 I read about but have not looked at yet. Then do the job and put it back together without any problems.
The only FI units I've had before this '07 Bandit were BMW boxers and a DL1000 witch I keep in sync with a twin max and my mercury manometer (from back in the early 70's) before on my first '95 Beemer GS.
Thanks for all your input on the subject. Really helps out when fixing to do this stuff for the first time. The Manuel is pretty short on this stuff.

Roy
07-01-2008, 08:36 AM
Okay Roy, a few questions.
Does unplugging the vacuum stuff on #1 to hook up the hoses for for sycn work cause any FI malfuctions to light up?. If doing this at home do we really need the unit to complete the job? . I'm sure my dealer would not be as kind as yours on lending me his high buck tools. I am hoping that I just have to pull the tank up, unplug the factory stuff on #1 I read about but have not looked at yet. Then do the job and put it back together without any problems.
The only FI units I've had before this '07 Bandit were BMW boxers and a DL1000 witch I keep in sync with a twin max and my mercury manometer (from back in the early 70's) before on my first '95 Beemer GS.
Thanks for all your input on the subject. Really helps out when fixing to do this stuff for the first time. The Manuel is pretty short on this stuff.

Andy 1st off get yourself a service manual this beast is a elctronic gadget if there ever was one. I'll try to brief you on some of the details but remember the service manual spells it out pretty good. You cannot just pull #1 vac. port off it will not crank with this unplugged. To sync your guages assuming you have the type that must be synce'd before use. 1st off pull #1 vac. hose off plug up the sync guage manifold which is 4 hoses into 1. Plug up the #1 hose with a screw or some other object. You can now crank the bike and sync your guages. Once you have done this, unplug all 3 remaining vac. ports, unplug the IAP valve coupler the thing all the vac. lines go into. Plug all your guage hoses into their respective port. Set your bike in dealer mode, white plug on the right side of bike behind the plastic cover, two pins to the far right jump with a object, I like a paper clip or you can buy the suzuki specific dealer switch. Once you have this jumped crank the bike and begin the sync the idle will jump up to about 1400 in a few minutes of cranking with the IAP disconnected don't worry proceed with the sync. Also the dash will say -C13 don't not worry its not permeanent at this point. I like to screw all the airscrew all the way in and start fresh. Idle will drop but continue on. Sync the TB's and then kill the engine re-connect all the vac. lines and plug back in the IAP coupler. Your done and hoepfully no codes need to be cleared from the ECM if so check with SDS and clear the DTC. Hopefully your ISC valve will not freak out like mine did then you will need SDS to straighten it all out.

That's it now go :rider:

achesley
07-01-2008, 01:47 PM
Thanks Roy,
I have the Service Manuel download already. I'll print out the stuff for TBS and give it a shot next time on the bench. Probably next oil change.

Andy in Jennings, La.

Roy
07-01-2008, 02:56 PM
Thanks Roy,
I have the Service Manuel download already. I'll print out the stuff for TBS and give it a shot next time on the bench. Probably next oil change.

Andy in Jennings, La.

One more very critical part Andy. Not sure how your suppose to get around this without using SDS but engine temp is critical when doing the sync. Since the Bandit has no temp guage and SDS provides this info doing it in dealer mode only no SDS is quite complicated due to the increase in engine temps which affects TB sync as the manifold pressure rises due to excessive heat generation. 176~212 degrees is the manual spec'd sync temp anything above 212 and things get hard to sync. SDS will not even let you start until it reaches the 176 degrees to which then you are able to lock in the ISC air with the laptop. Dealer mode supposedly does the same thing but I had trouble with it on mine. That is when I had to borrow the laptop with SDS and perform the procedure. 1st TB sync spec is not until 7500 miles according to the manual. I know it says 600 in there somewhere but that must be a mis-print was the only thing I could think. I would not worry about it unless 1.) your fuel mileage is low 2.) your experiencing rough running or 3.) and this was my case your TPS is off.

Good luck.

achesley
07-01-2008, 08:56 PM
Thanks Roy,
I have an infared gun from my years as a drilling rig and compressor mochanic. Have a lot of fun going about and showing people their engine / radiator temps. Now I don't do anything but my stuff.;-). I'll look at all this stuff next time I put it on the bench for an oil change. The bike is running super great. So much better than my '06 V Storm 1000. And, now I'm getting the ergos to meet my dilapidated old body. ;-) Last 212 miles average was 47 mpg running in the 60 to 65 mph range on back roads. I'm very easy on the gas. Hate having to buy tires and chains and sprockets and adjusting that stuff unnecessary. I guess several hundred K miles and lotsa bikes does that to a guy.

H2E
07-27-2008, 12:48 PM
Hi Everyone,
I have a few comments and questions regarding TPS and Throttle valve sync. To clarify for some: the dealer mode connector on the 08 1250 Bandit is not where the 07 manual I have suggests it is - it is located on the right side of t he bike directly under the elongated black plastic cover which can be removed using a 4mm allen wrench. jumpering the red/white black/white connections puts this in dealer mode. It is a white connector with a white cap cover that dead ends there.
I have performed both the TPS adjustment and throttle valve sync several times on this bike (08 1250).
Question: Am I correct in the fact that the TPS adjustment is done using the screw located adjacent to the throttle linkage? This seems odd since it is a mechanical adjustment and not a sensor - on my dL1000 you actually moved the sensor. In any case, advancing this screw does in fact cause the C00 indication on the speedometer to go from _C00 to -C00.
Question: I used a homemade manometer - works great, but- is there a reference position for one of the throttle valve adjustment screws or do they just have to be 'in sync'.
Comment: after adjusting the TPS to -C00 and then doing the sync my engine was definitely rougher - especially obvious when in neutral and holding the rev's to around 2500rpm. When I back off the TPS adjustment to the original setting (about 5/8ths turn and reading well into the _C00 range) and then do the sync again, the engine is smoother in the steady rev test as well as on the road.
Question: Am I missing something here?

One more thing - even when adjusted for the smoothest setting, there is a slight hickup when holding the rev's in neutral at 2500rpm. I can't detect anything under normal riding conditions - would any other adjustments affect this or is this normal? - I've checked and replaced the spark plugs - they all look good and identical - same result, very minor but I have no other bike to compare it with. No hickup or lack of smoothness anywhere in the rev range detectable when riding.

sproggy
07-27-2008, 04:58 PM
The screw between the 2nd and 3rd throttle bodies is something to do with throttle shaft synchronisation between the two throttle body blocks (I think) - it certainly isn't the TPS adjustment. The factory manual says "don't touch it unless you have to".

The only reason it changed the TPS indicator is that it moved the throttle spindle that the TPS is mounted to. I suggest you read the manual before doing anything further othewise you won't be making any improvements! Adjust the TPS properly and then re-sync.

The hickup around 2500rpm is normal - if you do a search on the forum you'll find various suggestions for improving it from O2 bypasses to remapping.

H2E
07-27-2008, 06:47 PM
The screw between the 2nd and 3rd throttle bodies is something to do with throttle shaft synchronisation between the two throttle body blocks (I think) - it certainly isn't the TPS adjustment. The factory manual says "don't touch it unless you have to".

The only reason it changed the TPS indicator is that it moved the throttle spindle that the TPS is mounted to. I suggest you read the manual before doing anything further othewise you won't be making any improvements! Adjust the TPS properly and then re-sync.

The hickup around 2500rpm is normal - if you do a search on the forum you'll find various suggestions for improving it from O2 bypasses to remapping.


Thanks, that makes sense - Mystery solved! simple as could be - the TPS sensor is located just forward of the STP sensor on the left hand side of the bike - completely exposed and adjusted by loosening the two torx screws and moving a tiny amount in either direction with the bike in dealer mode. Anyone turning a 'screw' 1/2 turn or more must be doing what I did and should put the screw back in its previous position. In the manual it is easy to miss its location since it is a triple sensor marked: IAP/TP/IAT

Roy
07-28-2008, 08:10 AM
Thanks, that makes sense - Mystery solved! simple as could be - the TPS sensor is located just forward of the STP sensor on the left hand side of the bike - completely exposed and adjusted by loosening the two torx screws and moving a tiny amount in either direction with the bike in dealer mode. Anyone turning a 'screw' 1/2 turn or more must be doing what I did and should put the screw back in its previous position. In the manual it is easy to miss its location since it is a triple sensor marked: IAP/TP/IAT


Wrong, the TPs screw and there is one is under the throttle bodies in the middle. White stripe of paint on the jam nut. The Sensor you refer to is FIXED on this model and should never be undone.:lol2: The screw on top in the middle of the throttle bodies is as sproggy pointed out butterfly sync for the #1 and #2 body with #3 and #4 body. You use a .001 feeler guage in the throttle body throat under the butterflies with them off the bike to set this. Been there done all this already my bike runs great after I worked on it. Suzuki was no help. If you did undo the TP/IAT sensor you basically got lucky that it would even move any since it has two screws holding it down in a fixed position unlike the older designs which had only one and a slot to swivel the sensor. The STP secondary sensor still adjusted that way its behind the TPS sensor. you might want to hook your bike up to a laptop with SDS and check the degree your TPS is at now re-set that sensor best you can and use the screw under the throttle bodies to set the TPS correctly. Just saying.;-)

whitesands
07-28-2008, 06:09 PM
Roy, are you going to try the fly removal ? With your throttle bodies synced you're going to have the smoothest running bandit 1250 around!

Roy
07-30-2008, 06:52 AM
Roy, are you going to try the fly removal ? With your throttle bodies synced you're going to have the smoothest running bandit 1250 around!

Most likely not since my bike right now runs great. I am getting 46 mpg on my work commute steady every week. I just do not see an improvement with that. I did do it on my V-Strom 1000 and the results were good.

whitesands
07-31-2008, 03:31 AM
So you're just using the 02 mod as far as fueling is concerned ? With the extra fuel being added you can't beat 46mpg on a 1255cc bike...

Roy
07-31-2008, 07:04 AM
So you're just using the 02 mod as far as fueling is concerned ? With the extra fuel being added you can't beat 46mpg on a 1255cc bike...

Bone stock! my tuning of the throttle bodies, TPS set correctly stock everything except no O2 sensor. I have it bypassed with the homemade model 1/2 watt 1k resistor. Dobeck never got me another replacement after teh 3rd one failed. I guess they are done with me. It runs nice an smooth with no surging ECM maps are all stock. 90% of the problem with these bikes is the throttle body sync and TPS incorrectly set from the factory + the fact they are using a cheap designed O2 sensor. Get rid of it and it runs fine if all the other things are adjusted correctly. 16,200 miles on mine and I ride it everyday to work.:rider:

H2E
08-15-2008, 01:45 PM
Just for the record - thanks to Sproggy, I will be attempting the TPS adjustment and secondary plate removal again soon - my dealer says that there is NO adjustment for the TPS according to their Suzuki rep. I took the bike in a couple of weeks ago to just have the TPS set and at the end of the day (when they finally got to it), I found them playing with the STP sensor. When I showed them the TPS screw under the throttle bodies, they said that was just for idle adjustment -- so I am done with them wasting my time on this.
I have one more question regarding throttle valve sync: Since I have a homemade differential manometer, I can't determine an absolute value for the vacuum - is it good enough to balance them and if not, can anyone provide a setting for the number of CCW turns necessary to get a reference value.

sproggy
08-15-2008, 03:04 PM
I have one more question regarding throttle valve sync: Since I have a homemade differential manometer, I can't determine an absolute value for the vacuum - is it good enough to balance them and if not, can anyone provide a setting for the number of CCW turns necessary to get a reference value.

I can tell you what I did, but not whether it's correct! I screwed all 4 screws fully in and then averaged the number of turns (they were pretty close, but I don't remember the figure) to turn them all out again by. I then treated No. 1 as being the datum and adjusted the other three to match that.

Although the manual says to balance at idle I tried at higher revs too and found that 1&2 were out of sync with 3&4. You can adjust this balance with the screw facing upwards between the 2nd and 3rd throttle bodies. This is the other screw (along with the TPS adjuster) that the manual says not to touch!

dmerc
08-15-2008, 06:57 PM
I just left the #1 screw where it was, and adjusted the other 3 to match. I use a homemade manometer as well, I keep thinking I should get a 4 way tee, and turn it into a 4cyl. model, but I never remember!:doh:

but matching them all to #1 worked fine, and they came into synch very well.

H2E
08-16-2008, 06:11 PM
Thanks for the hints! We have a stretch of bad weather this weekend but I will give it a shot soon. (I don't have a garage)

Roy
08-16-2008, 11:40 PM
American Suzuki does not know these bikes nor does the dealer they are 2nd 3rd party passer ons of missinformation. Trust me the TPS is set by the screw under the throttle bodies just like its the screw on the end of a GSXR throttle body. Not suprising your dealer is an idiot most are. I work closely with a guy who has been working on Kawasaki and Suzuki motorcycles for 30+ years and yes that is the TPS adjustment. Do as you may but I told you so. BTW my bike runs great after I worked on it not suzuki they were and are still clueless all the way back to the Brea, California office.

Roy
08-16-2008, 11:44 PM
You can adjust this balance with the screw facing upwards between the 2nd and 3rd throttle bodies. This is the other screw (along with the TPS adjuster) that the manual says not to touch!

Do not adjust this screw it is for the butterfly adjusment between the 1~2 TB and 3~4 TB. To adjust it you must use a 1 thousandth feeler guage and slide/drag it out of each TB butterfly either 2 or 3 or 1 or 4. I checked mine when the TB's were off the bike and mine were spot on. Your adjusting the butterfly gap between the TB's since 1 and 2 are a pair and 3 and 4 are pair.

Roy
08-16-2008, 11:50 PM
For those wanting their dealers to set their bikes right you might as well face the music here they simply do not know how to do it or just do not want too its really that simple. We are not building rockets here. If you TPS bar is off its really this simple your TPS is OFF! not by the sensor but by the TPS adjustment screw which controls the attitude angle of the TB shaft. The sensor does nothing on this model in relation to shaft angle. Correct angle is 27.9 degrees always will be. They do not want you messing with this because of the emissions laws in place today. ITs a factory setting with the throttle bodies OFF the bike and once in place on each individual bike some are off some are not. Suzuki is in the business to comply with law not worry if your bike is running correctly or not. I've read all this about my dealer said htis and that Suzuki said this and that, its all bull, read up on how to adjust your bikes its all been covered here. My bike runs great now and will for some time because it is right after I adjsuted the TPS and balanced the TB's. Nothing more nothing less. If you do not know how I suggest you learn it really is not that hard to do.

Roy
08-16-2008, 11:52 PM
When I showed them the TPS screw under the throttle bodies, they said that was just for idle adjustment -- so I am done with them wasting my time on this.
.

There is NO idle adjustment on this bike it is electronically controlled by the ECM. It is programed into the unit. It is spelled out in the service manual under the SDS diagnostics section.

Z_Hawk
08-17-2008, 11:36 AM
Sadly, my bike fits all the criterion for a mis-aligned TPS. I did the test this weekend and I got a C-, so straight to the TBS when I get my sync tool.

H2E
08-17-2008, 02:04 PM
There is NO idle adjustment on this bike it is electronically controlled by the ECM. It is programed into the unit. It is spelled out in the service manual under the SDS diagnostics section.

Hi Roy, :giveup:
I hope you were reading my responses as I intended - I am in full agreement with you on this and the TPS setting, the dealer has seen the last of me.
Thanks for all the good advice, I'll reset the butterfly balance using a .001 feeler gauge when I have the TB's off the bike.

sproggy
08-17-2008, 03:11 PM
Do not adjust this screw it is for the butterfly adjusment between the 1~2 TB and 3~4 TB. To adjust it you must use a 1 thousandth feeler guage and slide/drag it out of each TB butterfly either 2 or 3 or 1 or 4. I checked mine when the TB's were off the bike and mine were spot on. Your adjusting the butterfly gap between the TB's since 1 and 2 are a pair and 3 and 4 are pair.

I know - that's why I pointed out that you can adjust the balance between 1&2 and 3&4 with this screw! Clearances with feeler gauges may be the theoretical way to do it but when it comes down to it it's all about balance and that isn't measure in thousandths of an inch! On my bike 3&4 were drawing harder than 1&2 with the revs above idle. Tweaking this screw very slightly restored the balance and the bike runs smoother as a result.

Roy
08-18-2008, 06:47 AM
I know - that's why I pointed out that you can adjust the balance between 1&2 and 3&4 with this screw! Clearances with feeler gauges may be the theoretical way to do it but when it comes down to it it's all about balance and that isn't measure in thousandths of an inch! On my bike 3&4 were drawing harder than 1&2 with the revs above idle. Tweaking this screw very slightly restored the balance and the bike runs smoother as a result.

Balance is drawn from vacum on the intake tracts. Your valves are most likely like mine one or two on the tight side reducing the aboumt of necessary vacum compared to the others. The butterflies should all be equal then go from there.

H2E
08-19-2008, 08:41 PM
Did it! - set the TPS and removed the secondary butterflies. Thanks for the advice- it took about 2 hours to complete the job. I also sync'd the throttle valves but the rpm was high (1500rpm) so I will do it again when it settles down. No sign of surging or any other problems- smooth throughout the rpm range right through redline. Even at my elevation (9,000 ft) the bike is very strong and it is down almost 30% from its sea level power! The bike has all of Dale's stage 1 mods including TFI and was broken in strictly following advice from the web: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html :rider:

jpb
08-20-2008, 06:04 PM
I may have missed it in the manual but where does it say that _C00 means the TPS is out of adjustment, that is what mine shows, and also the book dosnt show where or how to adj. it. It shows 2 adj. screws that are preset at the factory and not to adj. them unless needed, but dosnt say what each does. Any help with these questions would be greatly appreciated. I would like to adj. mine. Tks. Jeff

jpb
08-20-2008, 09:50 PM
After reading all the responces I answered all my questions, tks. for all the great information posted here. Jeff:clap:

Highwayman
09-13-2009, 01:48 PM
Recently installed a 2 Bros. exhaust. Prior to that exhaust was stock. Didn't notice any vibration prior to new install. Went on 400 mile trip, did some mountain riding, then 400 miles home. Vibration started on way up and progressively worsened. Vibes felt in bars and foot pegs. Could the aftermarket exhaust cause the problem? No other mods except for exhaust. Bike also surges now. Any pertinent technical insights appreciated.

treybrad
09-13-2009, 04:47 PM
Recently installed a 2 Bros. exhaust. Prior to that exhaust was stock. Didn't notice any vibration prior to new install. Went on 400 mile trip, did some mountain riding, then 400 miles home. Vibration started on way up and progressively worsened. Vibes felt in bars and foot pegs. Could the aftermarket exhaust cause the problem? No other mods except for exhaust. Bike also surges now. Any pertinent technical insights appreciated.

I always thought I had a little more vibes with my Holeshot can, even after synching the TB well and what not. I think part of the problem is just the mass of the stock exhaust acts as a bit of a bar-end weight for the motor. Yeah, it's ugly and heavy, but I guess the heft is good for one thing.

Double check all the fasteners that hold the exhaust to the bike and make sure they're tight. Check the motor mounts and header bolts too. Other than that, I think it's just the nature of the beast.

trey

Highwayman
09-18-2009, 06:52 AM
I always thought I had a little more vibes with my Holeshot can, even after synching the TB well and what not. I think part of the problem is just the mass of the stock exhaust acts as a bit of a bar-end weight for the motor. Yeah, it's ugly and heavy, but I guess the heft is good for one thing.

Double check all the fasteners that hold the exhaust to the bike and make sure they're tight. Check the motor mounts and header bolts too. Other than that, I think it's just the nature of the beast.

trey

Thanks Trey. All fittings were tight. I neglected to mention I'd put a "Power Tip"(baffle) on the Two Brothers. I don't know if that made any difference. A friend recommended I disconnect the battery for an hour or so, giving the ECM a chance to reset on next start up, I did. In the meantime the stock can was put back on. Next ride I'll see if things are back to normal. When I put Dale Walker cans on my FJR I didn't have this problem.

Fittysom'n
09-18-2009, 08:01 AM
Go to Holeshot's site, click onto the Bandit 650/1250 sub-section, then scroll down to select:
"Holeshot Bandit 650/1250 Anti Vibe Muffler Bracket".

Would this (possibly) do anything to reduce felt vibration (as suggested), or is it strictly cosmetic?


http://www.holeshot.com/

lbel
03-04-2010, 04:44 AM
You guys I hope you still have your bandits.

I live in Greece and have an '07. TPS was with the dash up from stock. I managed to make it -C00 unfortunately by slightly moving the TSP sensor (I had not read Roy's advice at that time) and I synced the TBs as you all suggest.
Bike runs smoothly but I still get a hickup at 2,500, which is more evident when cruising and keeping the throttle pinned for long. The symptom dissapears when I unplug the IAP sensor. This leads me think that the sensor is clogged, but i'm not sure if this is the case.

The fact is that when I sync (having unplugged the IAP sensor and having adapted an adaptor on dealer mode coupler - ISC isolator with a temp indicator) there is no hickup at all at 2,500 or anywhere else and the bike revs perfectly.


I have ordered a new IAP along with the bridge hoses on top of the TBs, to test.

I am infuriated/frustrated as dealers here are clueless ( I 've been to at least four). I love the bike (I used to have a honda cbf 1000) but If i don;t fix this problem I'll definetely sell it.

Regards from Greece

whitesands
03-04-2010, 09:33 PM
Is it a surging type hiccup that you have at 2,500 ?

lbel
03-05-2010, 02:59 AM
Yes, this is correct.
It clears when I open the throttle.

Last night I synced all over again with the IAP on. IAP Plugged on #4, synced #1,2 and 3 and then IAP plugged on 3 to sync #1,2 and 4. The result is even worse as the indications in my carbtune II could not stabilize, as you can guess. No evident hickup at 2,500 but the engine stagnates from 1,500 all the way to 3,000 now. I cleaned the ISC valve (was full of carbon) and the IAP with a contact cleaner spray but no change. I have ordered a new IAP.

Next plan is to take the TBs out, balance butterflies with a feeler and start all over again but this is at least 2-3 hours work.

Thanks for asking anyway!

lbel
03-05-2010, 03:24 AM
Roy, have you ever tried to clean your ISC valve?

rworm
03-05-2010, 05:40 PM
Yes, this is correct.
It clears when I open the throttle.

Last night I synced all over again with the IAP on. IAP Plugged on #4, synced #1,2 and 3 and then IAP plugged on 3 to sync #1,2 and 4. The result is even worse as the indications in my carbtune II could not stabilize, as you can guess. No evident hickup at 2,500 but the engine stagnates from 1,500 all the way to 3,000 now. I cleaned the ISC valve (was full of carbon) and the IAP with a contact cleaner spray but no change. I have ordered a new IAP.

Next plan is to take the TBs out, balance butterflies with a feeler and start all over again but this is at least 2-3 hours work.

Thanks for asking anyway!

You shouldn't be plugging the IAP sensor in to the vac port
Suck a vac on it and crimp it off...then sync...
If you need more help post up...
Phils did a real good detailed write up that would help
you out....
Dont have time or i would find it for ya...
Just holler if ya need more help

lbel
03-05-2010, 07:06 PM
Many thanks for this rworm

You're Correct about IAP. Manual says you unplug it nad then sync. I'll do them tomorrow and I'll post. Tonight I found out that my STP was off (0.7 volts instead of 0.6).

Best

RichBinAZ
03-13-2010, 07:02 PM
Heres how I balanced my TB's. It might be helpful as it worked for me
http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e134/RichBinAZ/Bandit%20TB%20Sync/?action=view&current=1FrontSupport.jpg

lbel
03-16-2010, 01:53 PM
Thank you for this RichBinAZ

I have difficulty in getting a good tune with -C00 on my TPS. I have retained the overscore found but I have finally managed to tune the bike, I would say in an acceptable manner. i follow a quite different route than the one you are suggesting, perhaps under the influence of the service manual.

For instance, I unplug the IAP before sync and I also plug in a special british made "adaptor" I bought in the web, which I plug in at the dealer mode coupler while syncing. This adaptor temporarily takes out the ISC, which has a tendency to bring idle to the pre specified rpms amd does not allow you to sync the pilot (air) screws.

ISC should also be taken out and cleaned, which is pretty easy and pays I believe. Mine was full of carbon deposit.

Apart from TB sync I also discovered I had the wrong STP tune, which is quite easy to bring back at stock position using a multi meter.

I have clocked more than 200 miles and it seems that I made it this time. No hickups, smooth revving all over, good exhaust color and reasonable consumption.

Also, I have put iridium NGK plugs (CR7EIX) and I think they do a good job.


Many thanks and good luck!!

RichBinAZ
03-19-2010, 10:48 PM
Getting the TPS to read -C00 looks hard. The screw is in the middle where that black plastic box is, between the throttle bodies. Lucky for me, I didn't need to touch it.

Thanks for the tip on the ISC valve, I may take a look at that, see if it has carbon. (That seems to be something common on cars as well.) When i had the valve cover off to do the valve adjustment I was quite surprised to see carbon in the air injection reed valves. There must be quite a bit of back pressure from the exhaust catylist to cause that.

The vacuum pull on the IAP valve comes from a suzuki mechanic and Dale Walker (http://www.holeshot.com/)I think. Hope I have credited the right people. Dale has been working suzukis for a long time and definately knows his way around them

Ozbandit1250s
03-21-2010, 09:57 PM
Hey. Can anyone tell me if i have to get my 1250 re-maped after removing the secondary's & sync , TPS.'
I live long way from a dyno shop and would like to ride it until i get to a shop?

twist
03-21-2010, 10:29 PM
I have never (and likely will never) had anything on a dyno. I wouldn't recognize a dynamometer (is that right?) if I saw one.

I have secondaries out, stage 2 (TFI), the bike runs faster than I could ever really need, mileage is in the high 40's (50's if I drive the speed limit)

So my opinion is... NO, you don't need it dynoed

:rider:

lbel
03-22-2010, 08:13 AM
And did you finally clean the reeds?

lbel