Costa Rica by Bike [Archive]

Mike in Clear Lake

10-09-2008, 09:22 PM

AusFletch,

In answer to your question, yes, I have "experience" there. I am also a dual national US/Costa Rica. My family is from there, I've lived there and here. I speak both languages with no trace accents. Travel the world with both passports, etc., yadda-yadda. I can tell you just about anything you'd like to know about the country, history, culture, politics, etc. I know everybody there, and everybody knows me. It's a small country. We can go into more details in the background via PM. Here are some considerations if you are intent on riding.

1. Realize that the roads in CR are in bad condition (a past Ministro de Transportes y Obras Publicas went to college with me here in the US). Begrudgingly, I must admit that Panama now has the best roads in Central America. Keep in mind that Costa Rica is loaded with micro-climates. I would not do any night riding in Costa Rica on a motorcycle.

2. You may want to try a trans-isthmus ride to include Irazu volcano. By this I mean you start either in Puntarenas on the west coast or Puerto Limon on the east coast (they speak a patois English on the east coast, and the people there are of African descent and have a very unique micro-culture). You ride from one coast to the top of Irazu volcano. When you get to the top of Irazu (11,000 feet), if the day is clear, you will be able to see the Atlantic and the Pacific at the same time. It appears you will be there in dry season. This is good for riding. However, Irazu sits above the city of Cartago which seems to be in a perennial fog (micro-climate). Lots of rain-shadow there. If the fog ascends, it will block your view of the oceans. Even still, if it is cloudy, the benefit is that you will think you are actually riding above and on the clouds. One caution, however, is that I found this slightly disorienting. From Irazu proceed on to the next coast. Make sure you know how your bike behaves at altitude (settings, jettings, timing, etc.). Bike asthma takes its toll on Irazu. The ride is twisty and with switchbacks. There is a restaurant half-way up the volcano. My dad made me walk up there from Cartago when I was a kid. I thought I was going to die.

3. Another ride that is very interesting is from San Jose to the town of Zarcero. This is a twisty ride. I consider it a dangerous and challenging ride. It is twisty, but the danger is passing vehicles of all sorts going in both directions on a busy narrow road: Trucks, buses, cars, people walking, etc. I know you've done Mexico already, so this won't be a surprise to you. You will have little margin for error. The temperatures are very cool in Zarcero. It is also the center of the nation's dairy industry. The cheeses are fantastic. It is a small town with a fascinating church and park in the center of town. The park has hedges that have been carved up to look like human faces and animals. The church is completely wood carved inside...(see more below on this)

4. On the road to Zarcero you will ride through two other interesting towns. Grecia and Sarchi (there are actually two Sarchis, north and south). Grecia is the jewel of Costa Rica as far as I am concerned. The Gringo count is low. There are no hotels. It is a very traditional Spanish society. Very clean streets, very clean homes, old world manners. It is the Costa Rica I remember as a child before the blue jean culture and MTV arrived from the States.

5. Sarchi is a tourist trap, but the church and plaza are worth a brief stop and camera shoot. The reason why Sarchi is a tourist trap is because this is where souvenir ox carts can be purchased in various sizes. The shops are actually outside the town. Again, I stress the church interiors of Grecia, Sarchi and Zarcero as artwork. There is nothing like these interiors anywhere in the world. Some of the interiors will look like gold and marble, but it is all wood carving done by local Costa Rican artisans.

6. Grecia, Sarchi, and Zarcero kind of make up the Oz of Costa Rica, with Zarcero being Emerald City. Last time I was in Zarcero I saw no Gringos. There is a nice B&B in Zarcero. It's not in the guidebooks as I recall, but the name of it is Hotel Don Beto. It's clean and inexpensive.

More...?

Mike

Outlander

10-10-2008, 10:06 AM

I spend 10 days in Costa Rica and loved it. We did mostly Scuba diving on the Pacific coast but we also went to Ricon de la Vieja and visit EL Arenal volcano.

I wish I would had have the info that Mike posted above since we did mostly "turist" stuff but we never got the feeling of an over exploided turisty place.

Road were not bad (as long as you do not expect 4 lanes Hwy). Driving at night was intersting. No painted lines on the road, bicicles with two people and no lights.

I've been in places that I loved visiting but I don't feel the need to get back. Costa Rica is not one of those. I definetely want to get back and spend more time visiting it.

My belive in travel guides are wearing out. They are good for the "must see" places but I never had good experience with recomended places to eat. In CR enjoy the local "sodas" (small family restaurants) they are cheap and nice, just not flashy.

At Arenal volcano national park I felt like a nerd. Following the indication of the travel guide, we showed up in our best "Indiana Jones meet Survivor Man" outfits soaked in bug repelent, just to tour around with families in shorts wearing flip-flops :rofl: .

Beautiful country, nice people, good environmental culture :thumb:

Mike, please tell us more. I am taking notes.

Mike in Clear Lake

10-10-2008, 11:51 AM

Raul,

I suspect you stayed on the Nicoya peninsula. Very popular now for the beach crowd. Also the areas around Jaco, especially for surfing. The longest left curl in the world can be found in Costa Rica for those of you that are surfers.

For a hot ride (as in temperatures), traversing from the Nicoya peninsula to the Osa peninsula would make an interesting adventure ride. Not only could one hit the beaches, but one could also take side trips into the interior (up the mountains) and visit the various cloud and rain forests while doing so. Think of a comb that one used to comb hair. The base of the comb would be the north-south route, with the teeth of the comb being the side trips up the mountains.

For those who really want to rough it, the northeastern quadrant of the country is fairly remote and unexplored. Trails and roads come and go. Don't get eaten by any crocodiles. They are huge!

For most of us Costa Ricans, we define ourselves by the Meseta Central. Those outside of the meseta we consider strange ;-)

Outlander

10-10-2008, 01:37 PM

PURA VIDA

Yes, we stayed at Ocatal Resort at Playa Ocotal. The diving was great. It is different than the caribean, less coral reefs but more large fish and wales.

We didn't explore the Nicoya peninsula (we where just at the beginning of it) and went to the interior whenever we had a chance.

Outlander

10-10-2008, 01:50 PM

Example of the roads: I was waitng to finish the bridge to pass the truck. I didn't see the bus until it flew by me. The bus is on hte oncomming trafic lane.

http://pix.myphotoalbum.com/s/so/sol/sole/soler/solerroca/albums/album01/CosRic_D70S_0069.sized.jpg

Do you want to add more horses to your ride?:
http://pix.myphotoalbum.com/s/so/sol/sole/soler/solerroca/albums/album01/CosRic_D70S_0077.sized.jpg

Indiana Jones having Copos: Shaved ice, syrop and condensed milk :eat:
http://pix.myphotoalbum.com/s/so/sol/sole/soler/solerroca/albums/album01/CosRic_D70S_0267.sized.jpg

You do not see this in Texas (El Arenal Nat'l Park)
http://pix.myphotoalbum.com/s/so/sol/sole/soler/solerroca/albums/album01/CosRic_D70_0278.sized.jpg

Nice Beaches
http://pix.myphotoalbum.com/s/so/sol/sole/soler/solerroca/albums/album01/CosRic_Olym_0199.sized.jpg

Proof that Ticos are friendly. That's Sandy socilizing with a local White tip shark:
http://pix.myphotoalbum.com/s/so/sol/sole/soler/solerroca/albums/album01/CosRic_Olym_0355m.sized.jpg

More Pictures here http://solerroca.myphotoalbum.com/view_album.php?set_albumName=album01

AusFletch

10-10-2008, 04:38 PM

...I saw no Gringos....It's not in the guidebooks... It's clean and inexpensive.

Mike

Mike, I completely forgot you were from CR. Thanks for the detailed and enthusiastic response. That is great stuff and the phrases above are some of my favorite things to hear when getting travel advice! Let me proces your advice and maybe actually LOOK at a map to get a lay of the land. You can expect to hear back from me for more advice. I don't like to overplan my trips but since I am on limited time I don't want to be rudderless, either....

FLETCH

AusFletch

10-10-2008, 04:40 PM

I wish I would had have the info that Mike posted above since we did mostly "turist" stuff but we never got the feeling of an over exploided turisty place.

Mike, please tell us more. I am taking notes.

A friend of mine who just bought property in CR said that the guidebooks are priceless...as a source of all places to avoid. She said the places in the guidebooks are great but, because they are in the books, they are overwhelmed with tourists and there are so many great places to visit you don't have to be limited to the book. You guys agree with that advice??

Yes, Mike, more please..... :sun:

Mike in Clear Lake

10-10-2008, 05:40 PM

A friend of mine who just bought property in CR said that the guidebooks are priceless...as a source of all places to avoid. She said the places in the guidebooks are great but, because they are in the books, they are overwhelmed with tourists and there are so many great places to visit you don't have to be limited to the book. You guys agree with that advice??

Yes, Mike, more please..... :sun:

I would think the just "go there and ride" philosophy should not be applied to 3rd World countries (sorry I am a non-PC type of person). For the US, Europe, Canada, fine. Certainly not for a place like Costa Rica. I would strongly encourage the use of maps, guidebooks, and especially topographical maps. You can acquire topographical maps for most locations around the world. These topographical maps are generally 1:250,000 UTM maps and published by the US Defense Mapping Agency. Those of us who were in the military know the importance of a good map recon and some semblance of an operations plan before we hit the ground, but we also have to be prepared to alter things as we move along. Just going through a planning process helps us adapt when we get on the ground at the destination. In my opinion it does not stifle the fun, it makes things more fun.

Here are the first things I would ask you for a Costa Rica trip:

1. How much time between flights?
2. Which airport are you landing at? San Jose or Liberia? This will make a big difference in planning your rides and return to airport.
3. Are you riding alone or with others?
4. Are you packing light? Or do you have a chase vehicle? Or are you using a "depot" system.
5. What do you want to see? Just nature type stuff like an eco-tourist, or people and culture? Both?
6. How is your Spanish?
7. Do you want to ride the whole time?
8. Do you network in advance with the local people before you arrive? As examples (1) I am headed to Saltillo at the end of this month. This place is usually quickly by-passed by riders into MEX, or just used as an overnight stop with a walk around the plaza. However, I will be staying there for two nights. I have already made contact with several curators at some of the art museums and am expecting to have a dinner with a party of several folks. I called them out of the blue. I am sending my coat & tie in advance to the hotel and they have assured me it will be pressed before my arrival. I got the hotel name from a rider here at TWT. I will probably sponsor/purchase some art. (2) I am planning a ride to SLP in the spring. I have already made contact with a bull ranch nearby and am arranging for some private bullfighting lessons. I will board at the ranch. They let novices test young bulls, no horns on the young bulls, no espada in my hands. Neither the bull or I die in the ring. (3) My wife attends two company Christmas parties a year, one in Houston, one in Orlando. She flies ahead of me with my tuxedo in her valise. I get there in time for the party, mingle and politic with the bosses, etc. We spend the long weekend there afterwards, then I ride back, she flies back. I started "scamming" like this when I was in the US Army stationed in Europe. I was single then, great way to womanize all over Europe. Now I just do it to meet other people and get a better feel for where I am at. Anyway, I think you get my drift. Since you are a policeman, you have lots of segue that most people don't. You'd be surprised how many doors that opens overseas.

If you can answer me the above, I can give you some better ideas for your consideration on a trip to CR.

Mike

schwahead

10-10-2008, 07:13 PM

Mike in Clear Lake

10-10-2008, 08:24 PM

Mike this info is truly priceless to me, I have a question that you may or may not know anything about... I will be volunteering on organic farms with local families. But I am a certified divemaster and Im not exactly looking for employment but maybe somehwere where I could work as a diver, commerical or educational research in exchange for free room and board or even just the opportunity to do some free diving. Any info on anythign like this?

No I don't have that kind of info that is diving specific, but I bet the families that you are working with will. Where will you be working at? My uncle has coffee farms in the Turrialba area.

Mike

KenH

10-10-2008, 09:09 PM

Mike and Raul,

Thank you so much. The information you provide on Costa Rica is priceless. I hope dualsport/adventure riders and Costa Ricans all benefit from positive interaction.

Mike in Clear Lake

10-10-2008, 10:21 PM

Mike and Raul,

Thank you so much. The information you provide on Costa Rica is priceless. I hope dualsport/adventure riders and Costa Ricans all benefit from positive interaction.

BTW KenH, your rear fat-tired TW200 is the perfect bike for the dark soft soil trails found in the various cloud and rain forests.

Mike

Mike in Clear Lake

10-10-2008, 11:11 PM

Raul,

Tu eres mas loco que yo! Man do not pull on the shark's tail! Do not tease the eels! :mrgreen:

Folks if you click on Raul's link and press the slide show, you will see some really great pictures :clap: Man, I need to go to Costa Rica as a tourist instead of just visiting family. That trip looks like it was way fun.

The volcano shown in the background is Arenal. This is a cone shaped volcano (unlike Irazu). If the night is clear you can see the lava glowing at the top of the volcano and also some lava flows. This is very unique. Uh, for obvious reasons one doesn't successfully climb Arenal because of the lava flows. However, since Raul likes to pull on the tails of live sharks, perhaps we will have a first :) The lake in front of Arenal is a man made lake. The Arenal area is a popular honeymoon spot, mainly because of the lava glow at night. There is also a wind farm nearby that generates electricity, and also a few geothermal wells nearby. Costa Rica, however, generates almost all of its electricity from hydroelectric power. 20% of the country's land mass is dedicated to natural parks and sanctuaries, and this is actually growing. Petroleum products come in on the east coast of Puerto Limon and are pumped via pipeline to the Meseta Central (the highlands where most of the people live). When the pipeline is down for maintenance, the petroleum products are trucked.

Raul was on the Nicoya peninsula, which is in the northwest province of Guanacaste. This province was originally part of Nicaragua, but the people voted themselves away from Nicaragua and joined Costa Rica in the the mid 1800's or so (short version of that history). The people are different from the rest of Costa Rica, kinda like Texans are different from the rest of the US. Liberia is the capital of this province and it is somewhat of a backward city. My sister practices medicine there.

There is a smaller peninsula in the south named Osa. It has almost the same shape as the Nicoya peninsula. Take a look at a map, and on the west coast you can clearly see the two peninsulas. Osa is still not very well explored.

FZ6biker

10-10-2008, 11:49 PM

I had to chirp in even though I have no real info to give but only to ask you to post some of the pictures from your trip.Sounds like a fun trip. Good luck :thumb: My dream is to ride up into the Himalayas one day!!!

AusFletch

10-11-2008, 05:20 PM

I would think the just "go there and ride" philosophy should not be applied...

It sounds like we share travel philosophies...heavy on the research but not necessarily on the plans/commitments and make some local contacts.

Here are the first things I would ask you for a Costa Rica trip:

1. How much time between flights?
2. Which airport are you landing at? San Jose or Liberia? This will make a big difference in planning your rides and return to airport.
3. Are you riding alone or with others?
4. Are you packing light? Or do you have a chase vehicle? Or are you using a "depot" system.
5. What do you want to see? Just nature type stuff like an eco-tourist, or people and culture? Both?
6. How is your Spanish?
7. Do you want to ride the whole time?
8. Do you network in advance with the local people before you arrive?
Mike

[B]1. How much time between flights?
We arrive LATE on Sat the 14th and leave EARLY two Sundays later on the 22nd. This means we have 6 full days plus part of the second saturday to travel and arrive back at our starting point in San Jose to return the bike(s).

2. Which airport are you landing at? San Jose or Liberia? This will make a big difference in planning your rides and return to airport.Weare flying into and out of SJO and have already reserved a DR650 from www.wild-rider.com. They are located at Paseo Colón, 30 - 32 Street
50 mts. East of KFC, next to La Selecta bakery.

3. Are you riding alone or with others?
My wife and I are riding together on a single bike and we may have one or two other riding companions if their plans work out....won't know for a few weeks.

4. Are you packing light? Or do you have a chase vehicle? Or are you using a "depot" system.
Chase vehicle? Who do you think I am? Some wanker Englishman? ;-) We do travel light....probalby just a small tank bag and medium to large-ish waterproof duffel for both of our gear for all week. We will not 'depot' gear as we don't want to commit to destinations that firmly. We prefer to have a general 'menu' of destinations and such then pick and choose as the journey evolves. What we carry is what we will have...

5. What do you want to see? Just nature type stuff like an eco-tourist, or people and culture? Both?
We are bigger on the people/culture than the eco-tourism stuff although we would like to get a good sampling of the natural beauty CR has to offer...definitely both mountains and coast. We generally travel as an excuse to meet and learn about other people....

6. How is your Spanish?
Good enough to appreciate your poetry. :trust: Seriously it's just good enough to get me out of most trouble (after, of course, it got me INTO said trouble in the first place). My wife and I joke that together we are nearly fluent. She is a better listener and I am a better talker but that applies in English too. Practically, I can take care of all basic needs and have a pleasant, if slow, conversation as long as we don't delve into metaphysics or anything....

7. Do you want to ride the whole time?
We would like to ride every day and hit a new destination every afternoon. We generally prefer to leave early and ride about 6-8 hours per day and arrive at our destination early enough in the day to get a place to stay, get the lay of the land, meet some folks, relax, eat and drink and drink a bit then recuperate enough to hit the road the next day.

8. Do you network in advance with the local people before you arrive?
We certainly do whenever possible. We often try to combine learning about our vocations and avocations while traveling whenever possible, too....

This feels kind of healthy...almost like travel therapy. "Hi, my name is Fred and I like to travel...."

Mike in Clear Lake

10-11-2008, 06:08 PM

AUSFletch,

I will prepare a detailed response for you and post later.

Arrival Hotel: Since you are getting in late and the bike rental is on Paseo Colon, I would recommend you spend the night at the Grano de Oro. This is a very nice B&B about a block off of Paseo Colon. It is within walking distance of the rental location. I have stayed there myself. See http://www.hotelgranodeoro.com/welcome.html

About Paseo Colon
The boulevard has changed drastically since I was a child. It used to be a boulevard of very nice homes, most of which have been destroyed as the country morphed into modernity. At the top of the boulevard is the park La Sabana. You may notice an old Spanish looking building at this park that looks like an old mission with a bell tower. That building is actually the old airport terminal and that tower is the old air-control tower. It is now a museum, and La Sabana now has trees, walk paths, futbol fields, etc. Most of the young adults today don't know that was the site of the old airport. Back then we would land, pass through the old mission-looking building for immigration and customs, and then just walk down Paseo Colon to my aunt's house. The luggage would follow later by ox cart. Paseo Colon is now just a commercial boulevard, and as mentioned before most of the old homes are gone. The Costa Ricans finally realized they were destroying part of their architectural heritage and finally enacted laws to preserve the remaining old homes. You will only see about three remaining homes on Paseo Colon itself. Unfortunately my aunt's was not saved. After she died my cousin sold it, then it was sold again. The house was eventually acquired by commercial interests. The beautiful European facade was ripped off, the interior gutted. Now it is a Sherwin-Williams paint store. Other older homes off of Paso Colon still exist. If you lodge at the Grano de Oro, you will be able to appreciate what things used to be like. Have a good dinner, rest up from your flight, and the next morning pick up your bike early. More later...

Mike

AusFletch

10-11-2008, 06:21 PM

AUSFletch,

I will prepare a detailed response for you and post later.

Mike

You rock. Thanks, Mike.

Lil'Red

10-11-2008, 07:58 PM

I thought I would add my 2 cents...hubby and I went to Costa Rica 2 years ago and had a blast! I have a good friend that retired in the Orosi Valley, we used his home as a base camp and traveled from there (in a rental Rav 4) all over the country.

Some important things to remember...many roads are really rough (gravel and dirt roads are common especially in smaller towns). Generally, we stayed out of San Jose, but had to pass through a time or two...beware of the Circles of Death (actually traffic circles)! We noticed many motorcycles in San Jose do the lane splitting thing. They do it at high rates of speed and will dart in and out between cars and trucks even of there isn't any room, scared me to death! We also found that most of the roads are not marked. Even if you have a map, it is difficult to figure out exactly where you are or which street you are on. (When we were there GPS maps were not yet available...maybe they have them now). Lastly, many of the signs that say how many miles to the next town are incorrect. You might pass a sign that says 45 kilometers to Arenal then pass another one that says 56 kilometers to Arenal, while you are still traveling the correct direction. Don't be afraid to ask locals for directions. We speak very limited spanish but were able to talk to people all over. We had a wonderful time and met some of the nicest people ever. Everyone we spoke to was extremely friendly and helpful. We were warned to stay off the roads at night, as some of the potholes can definately swallow a car or a motorcycle.

One thing I did see in a travel book, that I would definately recommend, was a driving tour of the Orosi Valley. It is not a main tourist destination (a real plus to me), and is really beautiful. PM me if you want to know a really nice place to stay (on a coffee farm/botanical garden) in that area...my friend has a rental villa that is very affordable and would be a wonderful stop for a night or two.

Have a great time and don't forget to post pics from your trip!

:rider:

Mike in Clear Lake

10-12-2008, 11:20 AM

Day 2 - These would be my recommendations for Day 2.

As mentioned before, get your bike early. Your option to breakfast at the hotel or on the road, but keep in mind it will be Sunday morning and many eateries will not be open. After loading the bike I would recommend the trip to Zarcero that I mentioned above. However, I would not take the common route which is using PanAm Hwy and turning off at Naranjo (you will of course need maps). What I would do is take the secondary road that connects the towns of Alajuela-Grecia-Sarchi-Zarcero. This chain of towns with the twisty road connecting them all can be done in less than a day. In fact as a straight shot without sightseeing, you could get to Zarcero in less than two hours.

Alajuela - You will have already seen this town from a distance when you landed at the airport. It has a prominent dome on it's cathedral that you can see from the airport terminal. Here is where you will pick up the secondary road to Zarcero. In the central park in front of the cathedral are pavilions/gazebos where orchestras play from time-to-time so that the town residents may enjoy free music. This still goes on today, but much less. Sunday morning you may be able to catch a concert there between masses. The park is full of mango trees, and the mangos fall frequently. I have been hit by them and it does hurt, so be on the watch for this. Sometimes you can sit on a bench and hear them dropping around the park. The town is worth a look just for the architecture and layout of a typical Costa Rican city (San Jose can no longer be viewed as such). Unfortunately, there are some Ugly Americans in Alajuela, so you may get an opportunity to see some of them, though I think on Sunday mornings they make themselves scarce now. These are retired single American men, 60-yr olds with some well into their 80's. They gather in the park starting around 10:00a. They all know each other, and are what I refer to as Hemingway Trash. Most of these guys are divorced, though many have simply abandoned their wives in the US and Canada. They live off of their social security checks. In the parks they speak to each other in foul tones, brag to each other about their 30-yr old girlfriends (who are really goldiggers/prostitutes), the cost of Viagra, etc. I have spoken to several of them individually. They make horrible ambassadors from the US and quite frankly paint a picture of what many Costa Ricans think about Americans (more on that in later posts). In any case, it is a very nice town. BTW, should you decide to enter the cathedral, as you walk up the alter you will note that there is a plaque on the floor indicating that a man's heart is buried there. That's the heart of my g-g grandfather. Back in those days, they used to cut the heart out and drain the blood from the body, if the body was left to lay in state for more than a day or two (no embalming).

Continuing on to Grecia...but first, any questions on Alajuela?

AusFletch

10-12-2008, 02:52 PM

Day 2 - These would be my recommendations for Day 2.

...

Continuing on to Grecia...but first, any questions on Alajuela?

Mike, this is just outstanding. I am following along with my map and guide book like I am planning D-Day. It's like having a virtual guide which is more than I had hoped for...

My head is still spinning a bit trying to catch up so no questions so far but I really appreciate the cultural asides. I think they will help me enjoy the visit on my compressed time frame.

On a side note - I love maps but also have come to value GPS. Does anyone know if there are any usable GPS products for Costa Rica? I bought Bicimapas for Mexico and, while rudimentary, has helped me out a time or three in a pinch. What do the GPS-geeks have to say about CR???

-FRED

ps, I ran across this in the guide book while following along on your advice,

...y que manos carinosas
me lleven a la huesa muchas rosas
cortadas con amor...

I think I am going to like this place....

jtm133

10-12-2008, 03:05 PM

AusFletch

10-12-2008, 03:38 PM

I hope to be joining Fred and his much better half on this trip, especially after readingg all this...plus I owe him a good dirt dusting after riding back from Llano the other day (absolute blast by the way)

Glad to see you are following along. You really need to join us on this trip. Go over to Advrider and search "Costa Rica" to get really motivated...

Mike in Clear Lake

10-12-2008, 03:52 PM

Glad to see you are following along. You really need to join us on this trip. Go over to Advrider and search "Costa Rica" to get really motivated...

I saw two recent threads on advrider. For some reason that site is not exactly to my liking and neither were the two ride reports on CR (I am not registered there). There's something about that site that I just can't put my finger on, well I can but it would probably start a flame war. However, the two reports did have some excellent pictures. I encourage others to look at these reports for the picture content.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=291584

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376909

EDIT: P.S. I am now registered at ADVrider

AusFletch

10-12-2008, 04:13 PM

For some reason that sight is not exactly to my liking ... There's something about that site that I just can't put my finger on, well I can but it would probably start a flame war.

Oh, shoot, I'll jump into that off-topic battleground with both feet because I have thougth about it quite a bit lately.

I first stumbled onto Advrider about the time I bought my first GS, oh, 2003 and was searching for relevant information. I thought Advrider was the greatest thing since sliced bread. I really enjoyed the idea of a virtual community that shared my enthusiasms and had a seemingly endless wealth of information (and opinions). I used to visit that site religiously and spend hours reading about bikes, equipment and trips.

I discovered TWT a couple years later and found that my time spent at each site slowly but inexorably began tipping towards TWT to the point where, while I now check in at Advrider daily (almost exclusively to look for bikes for sale), I rarely spend any 'quality' time there and almos never post.

I have wondered why this is and have speculated two primary reasons:

1) Because TWT is a local (in the sense that a state as large as Texas can be local) community we share a bond that is as real as virtual. That is, we may and often do meet each other in the 'real' world.

2) There is almost TOO much information on Advrider. I grow very weary of the chastising "use the search function" posts. I enjoy the sense of community that exists in TWT and much of that is based on interaction and give-and-take like in this thread. You get to know the PEOPLE while learning about the TOPIC. Advrider seems to have become more of an encyclopedia than a community...IMHO.

I have found very few ride reports in Advrider lately (with ones like the Angola report being the exception) that have held my interest to any great extent. Maybe it's just over-stimulation by the plethora of great trips recounted or maybe it's the detached sense of not 'knowing' anyone....I dunno. What I do know is that I have come to much prefer spending my limited time here than there. Case in point, I didn't even think about posting on Advrider asking for advice about this trip.

Just my $0.02.

Now....back to Costa Rica....

-FRED

Outlander

10-12-2008, 05:29 PM

Raul,

Tu eres mas loco que yo! Man do not pull on the shark's tail! Do not tease the eels! :mrgreen: .

I was just Petting them.

The volcano shown in the background is Arenal. This is a cone shaped volcano (unlike Irazu). If the night is clear you can see the lava glowing at the top of the volcano and also some lava flows. .

We stayed in the cabins in front of the volcano, at night we were able to see the glow even having few clowds. Very nice and I can see why it is a honeymoon spot

After all your advice and re-visiting the pictures I feel like going back again. How is it during early December for a light 4x4 excursion?

I have edited the links for the pictures. Do they show now on the post?

AusFletch

10-12-2008, 05:34 PM

I have edited the links for the pictures. Do they show now on the post?

They are showing now. Thanks. -Fred

Mike in Clear Lake

10-12-2008, 06:15 PM

...

2) There is almost TOO much information on Advrider. I grow very weary of the chastising "use the search function" posts. I enjoy the sense of community that exists in TWT and much of that is based on interaction and give-and-take like in this thread. You get to know the PEOPLE while learning about the TOPIC. Advrider seems to have become more of an encyclopedia than a community...IMHO.

Agreed on advrider. Too big. I think the concept is great, but there's an in your face attitude over there that creeps out of the JoMomma section. I have been led to believe, by others and lurking on my own, that many of the trip reports are embellished with false stories. I have enough trouble getting along here at TWT, at advrider I would be gone in a flash. At least here if I get in a flame war over some political topic, it never bleeds over into riding/technical topics, which is really what this site is all about. So you are correct, I think the sense of community here means I can get in argument with a poster in an off-topic section, but that same poster will give me great info on a ride, a bike, repair advice, etc.

I was just Petting them.

We stayed in the cabins in front of the volcano, at night we were able to see the glow even having few clowds. Very nice and I can see why it is a honeymoon spot

After all your advice and re-visiting the pictures I feel like going back again. How is it during early December for a light 4x4 excursion?

I have edited the links for the pictures. Do they show now on the post?

Petting them? :mrgreen:

December is a great time to visit. You would beat the January crowds that start coming in with the dry season. However, as you already know, in Latin America things start shutting down in December and don't reopen till after 6 Jan. I'd be out of there by 12 December.

Arenal is a definite must...

Mike in Clear Lake

10-12-2008, 06:46 PM

Grecia - we are still on Day 2.

The ride from Alajuela to Grecia is short, but there is a world of difference between Grecia and the main cities of the Meseta Central (San Jose, Alajuela, Heredia, Cartago).

Grecia prides itself as the cleanest town in the world (actually I find Vaduz to be cleaner). One does not want to litter while in Grecia, or one may find some 80-yr old woman running out of her house with a broomstick to clobber the perpetrator. Grecia today very much represents the manners of Costa Rica in the old days. The people meet and greet each other in the streets. They generally dress respectably, eat with table manners, speak in eloquent Spanish, keep their homes clean, etc. Like most Spanish towns, the central park and the cathedral are the focal point of the town. There are no hotels in Grecia last time I was there, they do not want any. However, there are American retirees there who have bought homes. Most of these retirees have worked at weaving themselves into the Grecian society there and have become more protective of the town than the natural born Grecians. I would simply ride around the town to get a feel for the layout and the architecture. You will note that the cathedral is somewhat of an ugly reddish brown color, at least IMO. This exterior is made of metal. For a time it was fashionable to finish exteriors with this type of metal. There are a few old school houses in San Jose that also used these metal exteriors. These were imported panels from Belgium. However, inside the church you will see that it is completely wood crafted. You have to see this for yourself up close, nothing like it in the world.

Other than dismounting to see the interior of the church, should you decide to walk through the park, then ensure as a minimum that you greet people who walk by you. Buenos dias, may not be enough, especially if you are walking past any of the Doñas. With these matrons, feel free to introduce yourselves and tell them why you are in Grecia and ask them if there is a good place to eat, etc. It will be close to noon by this time, so this may be a good place to grab a snack (some places will be open by this time) and interact with some Grecians.

If I ever go back to Costa Rica to live, I will live in Grecia.

Next stop Sarchi...

P.S. If you haven't caught what I am doing yet, I am taking you through mountain country, it's going to get very twisty coming out of Grecia, and this will extend past Zarcero. You'll be seeing some volcanoes too. More tomorrow...

Outlander

10-13-2008, 07:59 PM

So, we are in Grecia and don't know where to go from here....

Hey, I am taking notes.

Mike in Clear Lake

10-13-2008, 09:50 PM

Sarchi - and we are still on Day 2.

You have left Grecia and are now on the road again headed north. Though a short distance, you are now well into the mountains. Sarchi is coming up just ahead.

Sarchi got it's fame in the world by artwork painted on ox-carts that were used to transport coffee to markets. These carts were painted with unusual designs. There are many theories as to how these designs originated, but nobody really knows. Sarchi is divided into Sarchi Sur and Sarchi Norte. As you come up the road and enter Sarchi Sur, you will see several shops. These are tourist trap type shops that sell these carts in miniature. People use these carts now as planters. There are also wood crafted products for sale in these shops. Across the road from these shops are furniture shops where you can see furniture being made by hand. I would probably only stop at the cart shops for a quick look and maybe pick up a pocket souvenir. However, if you walk across the road and stick your head into one of the furniture factories, you can ask some of the woodworkers about how they learned their trade. The furniture that you see being made is typical furniture that goes into Costa Rican homes. These are hardwoods.

Sarchi Norte is next up the road only a few hundred yards. This is the real Sarchi. Same scenario with church and plaza. The church is fabulous, again you have to go inside to see the interior. I am not happy about the church plaza. They have painted the tiles in some type of candy-land colors and it looks horrible. I complained to the Sarchi mayor, and to some government officials in San Jose when I got back to the city. Hopefully this has been fixed. There was also loud music blaring from one of the shops. Apparently they hoped that the tourist buses bringing folks to the shops in Sarchi Sur would stop in Sarchi Norte, so they tried to make it more appealing to Gringos by this paint scheme they used on the plaza and with the loud music. Best just to leave things alone, eh?

The ride up from Sarchi to Zarcero is next, and it is the best of all. This will include an overnight stay, a volcano (or two) as side trips, a colonial jewel side trip and much more...more tomorrow...

Mike

Mike in Clear Lake

10-14-2008, 05:55 PM

Zarcero - and we are still on Day 2.

The road from Sarchi to Zarcero gets even more twisty. Keep in mind you are climbing in elevation. The temperatures are getting cooler. Fog moves in and out of this area without any warnings, day and night. You may get yourself caught behind trucks, buses, etc. There are also people walking. No lines are painted on this road. Exercise caution. There’s only road and precipice on the way, so be careful. You will note that as you get closer to Zarcero that vendor stands are on the sides of the road. These stands are selling cheese. As aforementioned, this is the dairy center of Costa Rica. Stop and try some of the cheeses. These are fresh cheeses, not your supermarket variety. Enjoy the ride into Zarcero, you should make it there by late afternoon or early evening. Watch the sun, you are up in the mountains and it sets early. YOU DO NOT WANT TO RIDE AT NIGHT. When you get to Zarcero, go immediately past the church plaza and take the first right. Go up a block and check in to Hotel Don Beto http://www.hoteldonbeto.com/# . It is a bed & breakfast and the only hotel in Zarcero. I will advise you to depot there for at least one night, maybe two.

After checking in simply walk around the town. The town is very small, and it is in a bowl, you are surrounded by mountains. The church plaza has a topiary in it. A topiary is a garden where hedges are pruned into various shapes. Some shapes look like human faces, some like animals, and some are arches. The gardener who developed this topiary still takes care of it. He’s ancient. However, I did not see him last time I was there. Again inside the church the wood carving is incredible. You have to see it to believe it. Everything looks like gold and marble. If you knock on it, however, you will note it is all wood. Look at the craftsmanship of the woodwork and the painting, as well as the paintings. This is all local Costa Rican artisan work. The road you took into Zarcero is a north-south road, as you walk around the town you will notice roads going east-west up into the mountains. These roads lose their pavement once you are away from town. You are now in high mountain dirt bike country. More on that tomorrow, when you start Day 3…

P.S. Do I still have an audience? Google Map Zarcero. Turn on the satellite feature. Scroll east until you see the shiny turquoise "eye". That will be your adventure ride should you decide to take it on Day 3.

AusFletch

10-14-2008, 06:46 PM

P.S. Do I still have an audience?

Are you kidding me? I am engrossed....

AusFletch

10-14-2008, 06:50 PM

Turn on the satellite feature. Scroll east until you see the shiny turquoise "eye". That will be your adventure ride should you decide to take it on Day 3.

What is it? A lake in a volcano crater???

AusFletch

10-14-2008, 06:54 PM

Zarcero

http://mw2.google.com/mw-panoramio/photos/medium/598614.jpg

AusFletch

10-14-2008, 06:56 PM

Grecia

http://mw2.google.com/mw-panoramio/photos/medium/5925203.jpg

AusFletch

10-14-2008, 06:58 PM

What is it? A lake in a volcano crater???

I figured it out....

http://mw2.google.com/mw-panoramio/photos/medium/63734.jpg

AusFletch

10-14-2008, 07:01 PM

Mike, you paint a pretty vivid picture. It's like I can see a picture of what you are describing.

Mike in Clear Lake

10-14-2008, 08:34 PM

Hee-hee :rider: I see you are grabbing photos from the web. Very good.

Yes, that is the caldera (volcano crater filled with water) of Poas volcano. If you look at it via Google map you will see a turquoise eye and below that you will see another caldera that is darker. One is hot and active, the other is cool. There is also a smaller third caldera nearby, as well as a waterfall.

The decision you will have to make on Day 3 is whether you want to get there by dirt trails going due east from Zarcero (it will be rough especially riding two-up), or whether you want to go by a conventional route. Keep in mind if you want to see the calderas you have to get their early before the fog rises into the cloud forest.

More on this tomorrow...

Mike in Clear Lake

10-15-2008, 02:07 PM

Day 3 - Zarcero to Poas Volcano

Okay, so it is the morning of Day 3. You can have breakfast there in the hotel. Try it, or you can walk into town, or better to get an early start and eat on the road. Today you have to make a decision as to whether you want to to dirtbike it or tour it to get to Poas. Keep in mind, I don't know anybody who has done it by dirt. I have been told it has been four-wheeled.

Let's look at the google map with this link:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=Zarcero+Costa+Rica&sll=12.039321,-81.210937&sspn=2.304563,3.059692&ie=UTF8&ll=10.220328,-84.313889&spn=0.289896,0.382462&t=h&z=11

Locate Zarcero on the left, and San Juan Norte (SJN) on the right. Go just above SJN and you will see the turquoise crater of Poas. The dirt trails will take you from Zarcero due east to the volcano. However, you will need a topographical map, and you will need to know how to shoot an azimuth with a compass. This is a resection/intersection type of land navigation problem so I would not recommend it to novices. Remember you want to get to the volcano early in the morning so you can see the craters before the fog covers it. Below the turquoise eye on the google link, you can make out the other crater as well, it is dark.

But, and here's the fun part, you can get to Poas by secondary roads that are extremely enjoyable. Now you get to go downhill the way you came. Take the turn of at Grecia and instead of going back down to Alajuela you simply head towards SJN. A local map will take you to the entrance of the park. Leave Zarcero at daybreak, unless you are fogged in. Here's a blow-up once you get to San Pedro, you are looking for Poasito. http://www.1costaricalink.com/eng/web/maps/poas.htm

After you view the calderas at Poas take a ride to http://www.waterfallgardens.com/

You've got the lay of the land now, so after Poas and the waterfalls, your trip
Back to Zarcero should be a breeze, it will be mid-afteroon. On your way back to Zarcero stop at the town of Palmares. This is close to Zarcero on the spur leading to Naranjo. Don't bother stopping at Naranjo, it's a dump (government says it's because of the Nicaraguans, more on that later).

Palmares is the only town in Costa Rica where you will find some remaining colonial era buildings. While there are some other colonial era buildings sprinkled throughout Costa Rica, this is the only town where you will see an agglomeration of these. The town is now famous for it's annual festival. This used to be a nice festival, now it's a drunk fest and Gringos flock to this. I no longer recommend Palmares during fiesta time. However, the town is worth a look before you turn in from Day 3 back in Zarcero.

BTW, if you noticed in Zarcero, you will see that quite a few of the people look out of place for the typical Costa Rican, or even Spaniard. Some of the settlers in Zarcero came from the Celtic region of Northwestern Spain (huh?), so don't be surprised if you see a lot of freckles, green eyes, red hair, blue eyes, etc.

Tomorrow, you may continue your ride north...

Mike in Clear Lake

10-16-2008, 12:09 PM

busarider1

10-16-2008, 05:04 PM

Great information and have a great trip. Costa Rica is number two on my short list of places to retire.

Outlander

10-16-2008, 06:12 PM

Still reading and saving the info. :thumb: :clap:

Day 3 - BTW, if you noticed in Zarcero, you will see that quite a few of the people look out of place for the typical Costa Rican, or even Spaniard. Some of the settlers in Zarcero came from the Celtic region of Northwestern Spain (huh?), so don't be surprised if you see a lot of freckles, green eyes, red hair, blue eyes, etc.

I have to jump in. :rant: That is a typical missconception. Not all Spaniards are dark haired and with dark eyes, and Flamenco music is not payed in every corner. That is the Andalucia region wich was ruled by the moors for 700 years.

As you move north from the center, the people is more ligh skinned and with brown to blond hair. My father is from northwest Castilla, he has green eyes and so has my brother. The region you are refering is Galicia. Blond hair and blue eyer are fairly common in the north east.

Now back to the Costa Rica special (Sorry for the highjack:oops: )

Mike in Clear Lake

10-16-2008, 08:37 PM

Still reading and saving the info. :thumb: :clap:

I have to jump in. :rant: That is a typical missconception. Not all Spaniards are dark haired and with dark eyes, and Flamenco music is not payed in every corner. That is the Andalucia region wich was ruled by the moors for 700 years.

As you move north from the center, the people is more ligh skinned and with brown to blond hair. My father is from northwest Castilla, he has green eyes and so has my brother. The region you are refering is Galicia. Blond hair and blue eyer are fairly common in the north east.

Now back to the Costa Rica special (Sorry for the highjack:oops: )

This is absolutely correct! Spain in itself is a very eclectic country (I'm trying to keep it simple here Raul ;) ) But this is a very important anthropological point that Raul brings out, and yes indeed Galicia is Celtic in nature and they even have their own special language. My family traces back to Jerez de la Frontera in southern Spain. My dad's eyes were gray, my son's eyes are blue, which means the recessive gene was likely picked up in Costa Rica, not in Spain. Most of the Spanish immigrants who settled in the Americas during colonial times were from Andalucia and Extremadura, the south. These folks were more Mediterranean in their features and also with much Arab (Moro) blood, hence darker. The general rule is that as you go south in Spain the skin tone darkens. Similar in Italy too. Also, the Moros actually made it all the way up the peninsula for a short time. They were pushed back I believe starting with the Battle of Tours (southern France) by Charles Martel. Raul probably knows more about this then me, but I seem to remember that if one traces the castles of Spain that they actually form east-west lines that move southward as the Moros got pushed back.

Good post Raul and feel free to interject stuff like that. It's not off-topic at all but adds to the knowledge.

AusFletch

10-19-2008, 07:23 PM

P.S. I only post the next day's suggested itinerary if I get an acknowledgment that the last post was read. That way I know folks are still reading and interested. Otherwise I am just posting to myself :eek2:

Mike, I just got back from a road trip to Big Bend Country. I am all caught up and ready for more. -Fred

Mike in Clear Lake

10-20-2008, 09:21 PM

I just got back from Piedras Negras, MEX. Rode their Sunday, ate Nachos (they were invented there) and rode back today. More later...

Mike

AusFletch

10-20-2008, 09:46 PM

I just got back from Piedras Negras, MEX. Rode their Sunday, ate Nachos (they were invented there) and rode back today. More later...

Mike

No hurries. We have 5+ months to figure this all out. On a related note, my friend Pete just booked airfare so there are now 3 of us on 2 bikes. I think he will be checking in on this thread (and TWT) shortly...

How was PN? I have traveled through there several times while visiting Coahuila but have not stopped for more than gas or a bite to eat. -FRED

TwoLane

10-20-2008, 10:56 PM

I've had co-workers move down there, and I never enen thought of rentin' a two wheeler there. Maybe I need to visit those guys?:rider: :eat:

Mike in Clear Lake

10-22-2008, 04:33 PM

Day 4

Okay so you are now leaving Zarcero. If you got back late from Poas and did not get a chance to go see Palmares, catch it in the morning before heading on.

Your next destination will be Arenal volcano. You will have a nice twisty ride that will take you through Cd. Quesada-Florencia-Los Angeles-Tanque-La Fortuna.

My suggestion is that you book a room at one of the resorts in the area like this one http://www.tabacon.com/ From here you can take side trips like a canopy tour. Since you are with your wife and she has been riding two-up with you on the bike, she might want a rest at a spa like this, and then you can do the other kind of two-up since these places tend to be romantic :trust: Spend Day 4 here and Day 5 here doing the spa stuff and the side trips.

More later...

AusFletch

10-22-2008, 05:06 PM

Day 4My suggestion is that you book a room at one of the resorts in the area like this one http://www.tabacon.com/

My god man. My wife could see this. :eek2: I have her convinced there ARE no spas in Costa Rica. Shhhh....

Mike in Clear Lake

10-22-2008, 05:12 PM

My god man. My wife could see this. :eek2: I have her convinced there ARE no spas in Costa Rica. Shhhh....

Some times you have to be a metrosexual for a couple of days to keep them happy. Our annual Las Vegas trip always includes a spa visit. No spa? Then no poker tables or topless bars for me :lol2:

Mike in Clear Lake

10-24-2008, 09:50 PM

Prepping now for my ride to Mexico. I'll be back on this thread on Halloween or the day after, and should have it finished up by then, and also some alternative rides/activities.

Mike

AusFletch

10-25-2008, 06:40 AM

Prepping now for my ride to Mexico. I'll be back on this thread on Halloween or the day after, and should have it finished up by then, and also some alternative rides/activities.

Mike

No worries. No hurries. Wish I was going to Mexico with you.... If you end up near Austin give me a shout.

tx246

10-27-2008, 02:23 AM

Fletch,

I just got back from a two week stay and this is all Im going to say about navigation. You had better get a Gps loaded with the latest and greatest or you will lose major time in cities of any size. Like anywhere in CA they dont label anything and locals will give you directions that include landmarks that might not be there anymore. I did find a free version of CA that worked with my Garmin and I loaded it just for fun. It was rudimnetay but worked well enough for stuff outside the cities. The problem is that the major roads are still just two lane roads. When you get into town it is the roads are the same size as all the other roads. Add the one way streets and boom you are off the road that will get you out of town. I ended up following a lot of buses. The car rental agency can hook you up or there are timed maps that you can buy for your GPS.

They drive crazy and you had better be able to drive crazy too. Passing two cars on a double yellow while going uphill is normal. They just expect you to slow/move over. I never saw posted speed limit over 80kph(50mph). Peer pressure to pass is strong too. On the paved roads you will find lots of big rigs. Some of em are slow pulling the hills and traffic stacks up pretty quick. Before you know it, its your turn to pass and you are encouraged with by horn to take your chance and cross that yellow.:rider: You pay your money and takes your chances:mrgreen:

CR has every Suzuki GN125 ever made. There were lots of very small displacement bikes. Thousands of em. The biggest bike was the XT/Serrow 225. I did see a Harley and some big jap cruizers in SJ.

Lots of the pavement is very nice an twisty but with the crazy drivers I wouldnt reccomend playing road racer. DS opportunities abound.

Where to go.

If you can get there, and you like to be off the grid. Get to Sierpe, find a boat and get to Drake Bay. We stayed at Corcavado Tent Camps (Google it). Big Africa style tents with awnings and decks right on the beach. You wont find electricity but you will find yourself sleeping 15 yrds from the water, whales, howler and capuchin monkeys, toucans, and parrots within the first hour. My wife looked at me and said the only thing missing is Tatu or this would be Fantasy Island. Food is kind of spartan but adequate. Its here that you realize there is another way of life.

Want action, get to Terreaba sp? Get on the water specifically the Rio Pacaure. Ive whitewatered in CO and UT but this is crazy. Im used to hitting a big rapid and high fiving for the next 10min. Here the drops, and rapids just keep coming one after another. You are stroking like mad in a good way. We ran 12 miles and were gassed from all the work in the rapids in size and quantity. Guides were good. This river is listed as a Top 10 in the world.

Lake Arenal is beautiful. The road on the North side is very nice and paved. The DS road ie beat up dirt road on the south looked pretty tasty too. If you do the Volcano, get your reservations for the Observatory as you will be right there. We didnt have them but they let us in and we did the hike to the dormant volcano crater lake. We backed off to a village and got nice accomodations for very little money. I also got to windsurf in this lake which is known world wide as a hot spot.

I agree about the guide books. They are a good source for general information but you can find better deals if you will look a bit. Prices for "lonely planet recommended" places are higher just because they are in the book(especially food).

Next time I go back, I want to get off the airplane with motorcycle soft luggage, loaded gps and dirtbike gear.

Take gear to go from hot and humid to cold and rainy and be prepared to change often. CR is the definition of microclimate. I overheard a guy at our motel prior to departure telling someone else he would never ride in CR again. He didnt look the ADV part. If you have a sense of adventure, and adopt a pura vida attitude, you will have a great trip.

GTgirl

10-30-2008, 10:49 PM

Great!! You all have done it again!! Now I have to spend the next few months planning a ride/dive trip to CR. The more I read posts on this TWT site....the poorer I get! Can't you guys do something boring for a change? Something not so great or fun or adventurous? Oh well....it's only one more shift a week, I tell myself, ...at this rate I am gonna be working 120 hours a week to pay for all this fun ya'll keep talking me into!!

Mike in Clear Lake

11-05-2008, 08:50 AM

Thursday Morning Day 6

My suggestion is that from La Fortuna you ride to the the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula. This will put you in the town of Tambor. There are a variety of routes to get there. You can also take a ferry from Puntarenas. You know me by now, I would take the roads that would pass me through as many small towns as possible. In Tambor there are too many hotels to recommend. I have not stayed in any of them, as when I have been there it has been in friends/relatives beach homes. Raul may have some hotel recommendations for you here. Enjoy the beaches and explore the peninsula on your bike. I would stay here Thursday and Friday and exit back to SJO very early Saturday morning.

Mike in Clear Lake

11-05-2008, 09:05 AM

Saturday Morning

Take the most direct route back to SJO. Leave at daybreak and you will avoid traffic, though most of the traffic will be counterflow. Turn the bike in. If you did not stay at Grano de Oro upon arrival, this would be a good time to stay there. If you did, then try one of these other B&B places. (1) http://www.centralamerica.com/cr/hotel/milvia.htm I have stayed here, and it also used to be one my relative's home. (2) http://www.doncarloshotel.com/ This hotel was my great-uncle's house (don't wander around the neighborhood here at night as the red light district is close by). This home was joined to the house next door. The two families are also related by marriage now to each other. There is a nice gift shop in there too. (3) This one is my favorite http://www.bergerachotel.com/ No family connection there, but my cousin has his legal office just around the corner from there.

You should be there early enough to see some of SJO. Try a look at the National Museum and the National Theater. Have a safe trip the next morning back to the US.

I am at IAH right now headed to Africa for a month. I will have internet access when I get there, so will also provide some alternative suggestions when I get back.

Cheers,

Mike

AusFletch

11-06-2008, 07:53 PM

I am at IAH right now headed to Africa for a month. I will have internet access when I get there, so will also provide some alternative suggestions when I get back.

Cheers,

Mike

Thanks for the enthusiasm in your advice, Mike. It looks like I have the makings of a great time in Costa Rica. Feel like going? It would save me the trouble of writing all this down.... :trust:

Please have a safe trip. -Fred

miltonotto

11-09-2008, 10:08 AM

Mike in Clear Lake

11-09-2008, 11:32 AM

Thanks for the enthusiasm in your advice, Mike. It looks like I have the makings of a great time in Costa Rica. Feel like going? It would save me the trouble of writing all this down.... :trust:

Please have a safe trip. -Fred

Fred
I cannot believe all the help and behind the scenes info you are gleaning for this trip. The more I follow along the more I'm astounded. What a find Mike is. Simply awesome. At this rate, come March you won't even have to go.;-)

Lol! :rider: As you both know quite well, NOTHING really prepares you for these adventures.

Here are two alternatives that you can substitute for any part of the proposed itinerary above.

1. Ride the Reventazón River, uh...in a kayak or raft that is. These river tours usually gather in the town of Turrialba. There is a nice B&B there on a plantation, but I do not have the source handy since I am in Angola. If you are interested I can give you the name of the B&B when I get back to the US. Just PM me when I get back in early Dec. Time would be one day and an overnight on either the front or back end.

2. The two ocean ride I mentioned earlier in the thread. That is ride from one coast to the other and on the way stop at the Irazú volcano where you can see both oceans from the summit if the weather is clear. Personally I do not find Irazú to be an inspriing volcano as volcanos go. Poás and Arenál are much more inspiring but the ride up to Irazú would prove enjoyable. Time would also be a day and an overnight, plus one morning to get back to SJO.

These are the last of my recommendations for CR. Enjoy the trip!

Mike

miltonotto

11-09-2008, 12:25 PM

Hey
Don't stop now!

AusFletch

11-09-2008, 12:50 PM

Fred
I cannot believe all the help and behind the scenes info you are gleaning for this trip. The more I follow along the more I'm astounded. What a find Mike is. Simply awesome. At this rate, come March you won't even have to go.;-)

I have been having the same thoughts...the manner in which Mike has posted his advice has the feel of an actual ride report. I feel like my part of the mission is to go take pictures to plug into his report. More importantly, it really makes me look forward to meeting Mike...much like when I was getting advice from you a couple years back. -Fred

AusFletch

11-09-2008, 12:51 PM

Lol! :rider: As you both know quite well, NOTHING really prepares you for these adventures.

Here are two alternatives that you can substitute for any part of the proposed itinerary above.

1. Ride the Reventazón River, uh...in a kayak or raft that is. These river tours usually gather in the town of Turrialba. There is a nice B&B there on a plantation, but I do not have the source handy since I am in Angola. If you are interested I can give you the name of the B&B when I get back to the US. Just PM me when I get back in early Dec. Time would be one day and an overnight on either the front or back end.

2. The two ocean ride I mentioned earlier in the thread. That is ride from one coast to the other and on the way stop at the Irazú volcano where you can see both oceans from the summit if the weather is clear. Personally I do not find Irazú to be an inspriing volcano as volcanos go. Poás and Arenál are much more inspiring but the ride up to Irazú would prove enjoyable. Time would also be a day and an overnight, plus one morning to get back to SJO.

These are the last of my recommendations for CR. Enjoy the trip!

Mike

I had considered a two-coast itinerary and had also expected to spend more time along the coast but your suggestions - and those of a few other CR-knowledgeable friends - has convinced me you have outlined a pretty appropriate trip for me.

AusFletch

12-30-2008, 11:16 AM

As the new year approaches it is time for me to knuckle down and resume SERIOUS planning for this trip.

Since we last visited this great Costa Rican primer crafted by Mike my riding partner has suffered a severely broken left leg. A car turned left in front of him while he was riding his showroom quality R60/2. The collision caused him to rip off the left side of his handlebars as he unceremoniously parted company with the bike. He still hopes to make the trip but it may turn out to be just me and the bride.

Regardless, I have resumed my homework...

AusFletch

12-30-2008, 11:52 AM

...but first, any questions on Alajuela?

Actually....I am thinking we will spend our first night in Alajuela since we don't even hit the ground until at least 9pm and it's closer to the airport. Thoughts???

Mike in Clear Lake

12-30-2008, 01:21 PM

Actually....I am thinking we will spend our first night in Alajuela since we don't even hit the ground until at least 9pm and it's closer to the airport. Thoughts???

You still have to get the bike in the morning. I don't recall any hotels in Alajuela proper, at least not in the town center. Probably because the airport hotels are so close by. You can actually see the Alajulea cathedral dome when you walk out of the airport.

The drive from the airport to San Jose is not very long. I'd pick the Oro d' Grano because it's right off of Paseo Colon.

Mike

maximo

12-30-2008, 09:14 PM

I will be in Costa Rica late Jan early Feb riding solo. I plan on following some of your suggestions, Mike, they sound really cool. This will be my first trip to Costa Rica. I have been to Mexico, Honduras, Panama, and Colombia. It will be interesting to see how they all compare. I like your analysis of the old gringos living on social security. I have seen the type. They are so crude and disrespectful,,,it is so embarassing. For that reason, I try to visit places off the beaten path where the people aren't so burned out on the ugly americans. I have been told that, by and large, the ticos are very friendly.
I will be riding for one solid week, so hopefully I can cover some ground. I will be doing it the old fashioned way with my trusty national geographic road map of Costa Rica. I'm sure I will get lost quite often, but my Spanish is not too bad, so I think I will do okay. I think flying by the seat of your pants is the way to go!!!

Mike in Clear Lake

12-30-2008, 09:55 PM

maximo,

Have a good trip. Let us know of your adventures.

Mike

AusFletch

12-31-2008, 09:49 AM

Okay, When I picked Costa Rica as this spring's destination I thought to myself, "Self, it's a small country so planning should be easy." It didn't take me long to realize that, while small, Costa Rica is ridiculoulsy diverse and dense in opportunities to explore. I have had tremendous difficulty just narrowing my focus so I could actually start planning. Mike really came through and gave me that much-needed focus.

I have read and re-read Mike's and everyone's suggestions, cross-referenced them repeatedly to maps, consulted guide-books, used a Ouija board and finaly devised my rough itinerary/route (in pencil, of course!). I like it.

Day 1 - Sat - Arrive late and stay in SJO

Day 2 - Sun - Pick up bike and jet out of town to Alajuela, Grecia and Sarchi then overnight in Zaracero (I found some cool cabins just outside of town).

Day 3 - Mon - Day trip to volcano and such; Overnight in Zaracero area

Day 4 - Tue - Ride to La Fortuna (Tabacon Spa and Resort!!!)

Day 5 - Wed - La Fortuna (or extend trip further north into Guanacaste)

Day 6 - Thu - Ride to Nicoya Peninsula via land route; Overnight in Tambor

Day 7 - Fri - Explore Nicoya Peninsula; Overnight in Tambor

Day 8 - Sat - Leave Tambor early, catch ferry across, ride to SJO, Turn in bike, see SJO.

Day 9 - Sun - Leave VERY early. Yawwwwn. Who booked these flights???

Normally, I never stay more than one night any place as I like to travel and cover ground and meet new people. But, since my riding partner is out of action, we will be traveling solo and my wife will be much more comfortable not getting too adventurous with the riding miles. I would've liked to explore the Pacific coast south to Manuel Antonio or even Marino Bellena (should be whales this time of year!) but this just doesn't seem realistic.

What does everybody think of the route and itinerary?

Also, I don't usually - okay, never - book rooms in advance. Is there any reason I should change that policy for Costa Rica? I am fortunate to miss the start of Semana Santa by a solid two weeks.

If anyone has suggestions for specific places to stay or eat or see or things to do along this general route (or even modifications to the route or places) I am now entering that phase of planning so suggestions are VERY welcome. I am particularly overwhelmed with the beaches and accomodations near Tambor so personal recommendations there would be really fantastic.

-Fletch

Mike in Clear Lake

12-31-2008, 12:16 PM

maximo

12-31-2008, 12:28 PM

maximo

12-31-2008, 12:47 PM

I guess I should mention that I am not real particular about where I stay, especially if its only one night. About the only thing I might stipulate is that the sheets don't chase me around the room.

AusFletch

12-31-2008, 01:50 PM

About the only thing I might stipulate is that the sheets don't chase me around the room.

That's why I always bring my own...

http://www.cocoon.at/files/cocoon_fabfoto/320/156-ST24-RS-M_neu.jpg

Tragically, all accessories displayed are not included. :trust:

Mike in Clear Lake

12-31-2008, 02:49 PM

Mike,
I have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind. First, in the higher altitudes, how cool can one expect the temperature to drop? I plan on traveling very lightly, and was wondering if just a jacket liner would suffice for cutting out the cold.
Second, if I keep to my plan to stay away from the beaten path, even in high season will I be able to find places to stay? I dont plan on having a set itinerary, so I cant book in advance, except for the nights I stay in SJO. Thanks

First, weather: It gets cold at night when you are up on the Meseta Central. Elevation is not always an indicator. As an example, in Cartago it is generally very cool at night. You would need a heavy sweater or jacket there, even though in San Jose, which isn't that far and at about the same elevation, it would be much warmer. Micro climates abound in Costa Rica. In Zarcero, you will need to have a jacket every night. The cold there is damp and gets into your bones at night. Once you drop off the Meseta Central down to sea level, it is very hot. My advice for CR is a rain parka with a heavy liner (it still rains in dry season). Once you are down to sea level fold it up and put it away.

I guess I should mention that I am not real particular about where I stay, especially if its only one night. About the only thing I might stipulate is that the sheets don't chase me around the room.

Second, lodging: I was just talking about this to Chango the other day while at a restaurant. Generally when I hit a small town anywhere in Latin America (off the beaten path), as soon as I roll into town I go introduce myself to the police and/or the priest. They will be somewhere around the main plaza of town. The priest will of course be at the church. These guys know everything about the town. If hotels are not seen in the town you land in, or if they are full, these guys will be able to tell you where you can get a room. They may even offer you a room themselves (for pay). If you are visiting bars at night, that would NOT be a good place to ask about getting a room.

AusFletch

12-31-2008, 03:48 PM

Good plan! I would book the rooms in advance. Dry season means tourists, though I understand tourist dollars aren't flowing as freely these days. Is your wife riding her own bike or are you 2-up?

Mike

2-up. I think I may reserve rooms through Day 4/5 in La Fortuna then wing it after that...

Mike in Clear Lake

01-01-2009, 09:15 AM

2-up. I think I may reserve rooms through Day 4/5 in La Fortuna then wing it after that...

That's probably a pretty good idea. I would think La Fortuna might be the only place where you find a room availability bottleneck.

Mike

maximo

01-01-2009, 11:10 AM

Happy New Year!! Feliz Ano!!!! (pronounced "anyo")

Thanks for the tips Mike. I am down to just over three weeks before the big CR trip. I am hoping to get in lots of rides for 2009. I plan on going to Junction in April and I really have my heart set on Mexico in Oct. But for right now my focus is CR. My plans will continue as soon as my allergies and champagne headache subside a little. Thanks again for the valuable advice.

Mike in Clear Lake

01-09-2009, 06:40 AM

http://www.nacion.com/

You guys check the link above and your maps/routes. Major earthquake yesterday around volcano Poas. Also several bridges taken out, roads busted up, etc. Rescue operations appear to be underway for some tourists who were left without egress routes. Water/phone/electricity infrastructure also down. Seismic activity is up all over the country. Hey! It's not an adventure unless there is some risk.

Mike

AusFletch

01-09-2009, 07:33 AM

maximo

01-09-2009, 12:23 PM

thanks Mike,

I've been following the news reports on the web. Looks like it was pretty strong. I feel sorry for the people killed and displaced. Hopefully it wont get any worse. I will continue to monitor.

maximo

01-18-2009, 10:09 AM

AusFletch

01-18-2009, 12:08 PM

Hey Mike,

I am just a little over a week away from my trip to Costa Rica.

Are you riding down or renting a bike there? If so, where are you renting? It's nice to have a 'scout' going down there before me... -Fletch

Mike in Clear Lake

01-18-2009, 12:20 PM

Hey Mike,

I am just a little over a week away from my trip to Costa Rica and wanted to ask you a couple more questions if you don't mind. First, what is the best way to call back to the states? I am guessing there are calling cards that can be purchased and used over land lines, but I dont know which ones are the best. Second, I have heard that a standard ATT with GSM will work in Costa Rica,,,albeit expensive,,do you have any first hand experience with this? Third, what is the availability of internet cafes once one is off the beaten path? I am not going to travel with a laptop due to limited storage, but was just wondering how often I will be able to find internet.

Off the topic of Costa Rica,,,I just recently saw your posts about Mexico. I would definitely be on-board for an occasional trip to Mexico. I have seen other ride reports about Mexico and it looks great. Take care and thanks in advance.

Maximo, your cell phone will work down there if you have interantional service. Just dial and you can connect with home easily. I don't know the rates. I don't use calling cards so don't know about that either.

Internet cafes are everywhere. Gotta remember Costa Rica is a nation of readers, like one of the highest literacy rates in the world. Even the coffee bean pickers log on to the web. No kidding.

Fill out a profile on yourself over on the Mexico rider & wannabee thread. I've met two of the riders there IRL, but have not done rides with them yet.

Mike

maximo

01-18-2009, 12:42 PM

Thanks for the info Mike,,,I will scope out the calling cards when I get there. I remember reading something about them, but didn't make note of it. I will do the profile thing on Mexico. I will probably try and do the trip in Oct 09 also.

AusFletch,
I am renting when I get there from Wild-Rider.com. I am going to be on a Yamaha XT600. They provide MC, bags, helmet. I will have to bring protective gear. They gave me a rate of 65usd per day. I have the bike for 1 week +-. I really don't have much of a plan at this time, just to try and stay away from the tourist areas. I do plan on traveling along the coastline as much as possible. I have no GPS, just a national geographic map of CR.
Anyhow,,,thats the plan, or lack of, up to this point. I will fill you in on what I learned once I return. Take care.

AusFletch

01-18-2009, 03:34 PM

AusFletch,
I am renting when I get there from Wild-Rider.com. I am going to be on a Yamaha XT600. They provide MC, bags, helmet. I will have to bring protective gear. They gave me a rate of 65usd per day. I have the bike for 1 week +-. I really don't have much of a plan at this time, just to try and stay away from the tourist areas. I do plan on traveling along the coastline as much as possible. I have no GPS, just a national geographic map of CR.
Anyhow,,,thats the plan, or lack of, up to this point. I will fill you in on what I learned once I return. Take care.

Very cool. I am renting from Wild-Rider, too. DR650 - because I have one at home. Thorsten has been very accomodating and helpful. If you think about it, would you take a look at or maybe snap some pics of the DRs? I am riding 2-up and trying to figure out how I am going to put my duffel on there behind my wifel Thorsten said he should have luggage racks by the time I get there.

I have about a half dozen guide books and almost as many maps. If you happen through Austin before your trip look me up and Ill be glad to share them with you.

-Fletch

AusFletch

01-18-2009, 03:40 PM

Oh, btw, I just corresponded with Thorsten of Wild-Rider. He said that, while there was the tragic loss of life (he reported 20 dead and 15 still missing) the devastation has been limited to the Poas Volcano area. I am going to check to see if there is anything I can bring to help out. I may just donate to the Red Cross. -Fletch

maximo

01-20-2009, 07:43 AM

Fletch,

I agree, Thorsten seems like a decent guy, at least per his e-mails. I will try and get those pics for you of the DR. I ride a Suzuki DL 1000 at home here in Plano, so the Yamaha will be quite a difference. It should be fun though. Years ago I had a KLR 650,,I'm guessing they are about the same.

Thanks for the offer of the guides, maps etc.. I don't think I will be down the Austin way before my trip. I kinda like to fly by the seat of my pants anyway. Fortunately, my Spanish is good enough to be able to ask locals for directions whenever lost,,and I surely will get lost.

I am also glad that the devastation from the earthquake was not more than it was. I too have thought about making a donation to the red cross or something when I get there.

Take care, and I will be in touch.

maximo

02-01-2009, 12:49 PM

http://video.yahoo.com/watch/4397496/11796653

lets see if this hperlink works. this is at a beach at Samara,,this guy told me at 4pm everyday these howler monkeys come to his house to eat. i went there at 4pm and there they were.

AusFletch

02-01-2009, 12:52 PM

AusFletch

02-01-2009, 12:53 PM

Oh, man, I absolutely HATE monkeys. I may have to reconsider this trip...

maximo

02-02-2009, 04:12 PM

Yes,,,I am here now. sorry you dont like monkeys,,,if its any consolation, I had to go out of the way to see them. Its a beautiful place here,,,some of the roads i took were not suitable for two up,,imho. It resulted in me eating quite a bit of costa rican dust. i am away from the pacific now,,so i have paved roads,,,and no river crossings!!!!! the first couple of river crossings were cool,,,then i just got tired of being wet and sticky. i return the bike on weds,,hopefully in the am. when i get back i will post better info on the route i took and places i feel are worth seeing. take care
i am using internet cafes,,which is why the posts are not regular. the video i posted took about 20min to upload.

AusFletch

02-02-2009, 04:50 PM

It's mostly the Wizard of Oz flying monkeys that scare me but you can't be too careful... :trust:

I am extremely anxious to hear about your trip. It's less than 6 weeks until I leave for mine now. I gotta admit, the more I read about Costa Rica the more I seem to encounter, "It is a perfect country....except for the roads."

maximo

02-05-2009, 03:01 PM

I leave tomorrow. It has been a good trip. The weather got a little bad on me near lake arenal 2 days ago. I got soaked to the bone. The weather in san jose has been drizzly rain off and on. I cant say that I care too much for san jose,,,too many people I guess,,,dont like my hotel either. I will have to talk to my friend that made the recommendation. I will try and get you some pictures when I get back,,,there seems to be time. By the way, my cell phone did not work here, but the calling cards from ICE called the 199 viajera work great,,,and you can use them at any payphone,,,and they are everywhere. just fyi. take care and I will post more later.

AusFletch

02-05-2009, 03:27 PM

Can't wait to hear more details.

maximo

02-08-2009, 10:48 AM

http://video.yahoo.com/watch/4451573/11929915

Here is just an example of one of the river crossings I encountered. This one, as it were, did not turn out to be the largest, nor deepest. There was one that I encountered where I was following a group of SUVs,(after being lost again) that was even deeper. It wasn't convenient to stop and film. There was a police officer on the other side, and after I emerged on the other side, he smiled and waved me on. I think it surprised him that I made it. I think you will see that it would be a difficult task to negotiate these roads two up. Later in my trip, I found the roads further to the north in Guanacaste to be paved and in better shape. I am still kinda getting settled in after this trip. I will try and start sending some still photos of the beaches and some of the places I stopped at along the way.
If I didn't mention before, in the remote areas it is very useful to speak some Spanish. I learned that rather than rely on my map, it was also very beneficial to stop periodically and confirm that I was on the right track. One time I had to back track when I came to a river crossing that was too big. It cost me about an hours time and two trips past some mean dogs that chased me. The national Geographic map that I had was better than the one Thorsten gave me, but it still fell short of being accurate.

Mike in Clear Lake

02-08-2009, 03:48 PM

maximo,

Please start a new thread on your trip please. That way it is dedicated specifically to your journey. Thanks for the video, and it keep it coming.

Mike

maximo

02-09-2009, 12:29 PM

Hey Mike,
Thanks for the suggestion. I will try and organize a full ride report when I get time on a new thread.

Mike in Clear Lake

02-09-2009, 12:34 PM

Hey Mike,
Thanks for the suggestion. I will try and organize a full ride report when I get time on a new thread.

Great! Lots of pics please!

AusFletch

02-28-2009, 12:04 PM

AUSFletch,

Since you are getting in late and the bike rental is on Paseo Colon, I would recommend you spend the night at the Grano de Oro. This is a very nice B&B about a block off of Paseo Colon. It is within walking distance of the rental location. I have stayed there myself. See http://www.hotelgranodeoro.com/welcome.html

We booked the first night at this place. It looks great and gets fantastic reviews everywhere I've looked. Two weeks to go. Any last minute advice? -Fletch

Mike in Clear Lake

02-28-2009, 12:34 PM

We booked the first night at this place. It looks great and gets fantastic reviews everywhere I've looked. Two weeks to go. Any last minute advice? -Fletch

Take photos and a journal. Pen a few notes every night so that you can give us a good ride report. No riding at night.

Have fun and good luck!

Mike

AusFletch

02-28-2009, 01:11 PM

Take photos and a journal. Pen a few notes every night so that you can give us a good ride report. No riding at night.

Have fun and good luck!

Mike

Thanks. I bought a brand new camera with just this trip (and y'all) in mind.

AusFletch

03-13-2009, 07:29 PM

Thanks for all the advice, folks. We head out tomorrow. We have packed all our riding gear, clothes, tools, first aid, electronics and sundry for 8 days of riding into one medium North Face duffel and two small backpacks. I bet we still packed things we will never use. Talk to y'all in a week or so..... -Fletch

maximo

03-14-2009, 07:50 AM

Good luck to you!!! Keep us updated from time to time as to where you are. There are plenty of internet cafes along the way. I look forward to seeing lots of pics.

AusFletch

03-16-2009, 01:37 PM

Well, it seems I failed to bring a USB cable so will be unable to upload photos. I haven´t taken any great ones, anyhow. The scenery is magnificent but the roads and traffic don´t allow for spontaneously pulling over to snap photos. We are near the pueblito of El Castillo near Volcano Arenal. We are staying here.

http://www.hotellindavista.com/

It doesn´t suck. Turns out the only rooms they had left were master suites with full view of the lake and volcano. And its own computer. And beer-stocked mini-fridge.

Last night we stayed here:

http://www.termalesdelbosque.com/english/index.htm

So far Costa Rica kinda reminds me of the love-child of Hawaii and Mexico. Lots of traffic and tourists but those seem to be thinning out now that we are 100 miles from San Jose. The road from Aguas Zarcas to Fortuna was finally free of traffic and a wonderful ride.

I am off to ride the mountain roads while AusWife lounges by the pool under the shadow of the volcano.

Hasta, -Fletch

maximo

03-19-2009, 06:57 AM

AusFletch

03-19-2009, 04:00 PM

Sounds like its going well for you guys. I was in the area of lake arenal also, but it rained on me constantly so I couldnt really enjoy the scenery. Hopefully you will have more of dry season than I did. Are you headed to the pacific coast? that was my favorite.

We arrived in Playa Samara yesterday afternoon. It seemed like everyone we encountered in CR recommended it. The road from Las Juntas to here was the only non beatiful stretch yet. By "non beautiful" I mean long, straight, hot, and dusty. But the destination was worth it. It is beautiful and rustic here even if it seems like 5 tourists for every resident. Easy.

Oh well, we have a great hotel with a lovely pool and a fridge full of Imperials. The beach down the road 3 miles, Playa Cerrillo, is actually much more pleasant. I have a feeling the further south you go the more that becomes the case. Tragically, the road deteriorates inversely to the beauty so we have, on a two up, overloaded, underpowered, undersprung, DR decided not to take the 6 hour beach ride to Mal Pais. It gives me a reason to return with bike to myself or, better yet, a bigger bike or two bikes for us both!!!

Two more days at beach then headed home.