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Question on Header Replacment

Joined
Oct 2, 2008
Messages
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Location
Rio Rancho, NM
First Name
Mark
Last Name
Miller
In looking at my service manal it states that to remove you exhaust header you need to remove your radiator (which I am doing because I have ~14K miles on the coolant). Next it states to remove the engine sprocket outer cover and regulator/rectifer. Why am I removing the engine sprocket outer cover and regulator/rectifer? What does this have to do with the header?? I already did it but I am wondering if someone is smoking dope or something as I do not see the reason for this. I have 2/3 hoses off the radiator for now and hope to finish the header replacement tomorrow. Therefore, I might see the reason later but I am still scratching my head tonight at work.

Mark
 
I don't know the answer to your question but I have a question of my own: you're taking pictures of the surgery, right? :clap:
 
+1 on O2 sensor, that could be the answer I will find out tomorrow morning when I get home.

I did not get any instructions just the header and gaskets from Dale.

I know that the radiator does not have to come out but since I have close to 14K miles I thought what the heck. If I was to leave the radiator on it would be pain in the rear per Dale. Once the radiator is off it is a piece of cake. I did not drain the coolant I just let the coolant in the radiator (and lines) fill a bucket and will top off with new coolant.

My camera broke but I have my cell phone and will take a few snapshots.

Thanks Richard.

Mark
 
As stated before, CO is a non-smog enforced state. We do not need CAt's any more. About 10 years ago they passed a law stating that if we could meet the new emmis goal for 10 years we would be smog free (thinking that there would be no chance of us making the goal). We came in well below the goal set and the goverment had no choice but to lift emmis restrictions. We have had local shops cry that 30% of there busness was emmis testing and that they would all go out of busness. Oh well, seems that they are still here and working. However, if you go to any shop and ask them to remove you CAT they all still look at you like you have two heads and tell you that it is not leagle. Nevertheless, this new header does not have any O2 port nor any CAT. I hope to have it in by tomorrow night because we are expecting snow for a few days.

Mark
 
Make sure you bleed it correctly!!!

Do you mean the coolant? I know that the manual states to shake the bike back and forth to allow air to burp while filling it. I was just going to pour coolant into the filler cap, start the bike and shake it a few times then add any more into the rear. I only lost about 1.5L or less from the radiator.

Mark
 
Do you mean the coolant? I know that the manual states to shake the bike back and forth to allow air to burp while filling it. I was just going to pour coolant into the filler cap, start the bike and shake it a few times then add any more into the rear. I only lost about 1.5L or less from the radiator.

Mark
As the manual states..............IT WORKS
 
I can confirm that the sprocket cover and reg/rec have to come off to release the O2 sensor cable - it's a bit of a pain to get at. But you can't unscrew the sensor without releasing the cable, neither can you remove the header with the sensor still attached.

I changed headers without removing the radiator (just undo the mouintings and pull out of the way as far as it'll go) but it's not easy. I figured it was easier than draining the cooling system, though, because of potential problems bleeding the air out afterwards.
 
What are the potential issue from an incorrect bleed? Since not much coolant came out of the radiator I thought I could get a way with just a top off. I thought I would do a cold fill and reatach the gas tank and start it up untill the thermostat opend. Then shake the bike a few time and fill the excess under the rear seat. What should I be looking for to ensure no issue arise?

Thanks

Mark
 
What you'll get potenitally are air locks in the system. If you follow the procedure in the manual you should get rid of them OK (tipping the bike from one side to the next when it's hot) but just shaking it wouldn't be enough. It seems the 1250 is a bit prone to getting air trapped in the system. Certainly mine didn't seem to have been purged properly from new and the first time it got really hot the air escaped, resulting in the coolant level dropping significantly.
 
Doesn’t the oxygen sensor provide feed back to the computer that regulates the fuel injection? If the oxygen sensor is removed, won't that impact the FI mapping?
 
Doesn’t the oxygen sensor provide feed back to the computer that regulates the fuel injection? If the oxygen sensor is removed, won't that impact the FI mapping?

You're new here aren't you.....;-) Yes, you're right - that's why you'd fit an O2 sensor bypass as supplied with a Power Commander or TFI box. Do a search on here for "O2 bypass" and you'll have reading material to keep you busy past Christmas :lol2: A large number of people run an O2 bypass to smooth out the fuelling, with or without other mods.
 
You're new here aren't you.....;-) Yes, you're right - that's why you'd fit an O2 sensor bypass as supplied with a Power Commander or TFI box. Do a search on here for "O2 bypass" and you'll have reading material to keep you busy past Christmas :lol2: A large number of people run an O2 bypass to smooth out the fuelling, with or without other mods.

Thanks sproggy,

Yes, I am new here. I’m trying to learn everything I can about the Bandit 1250, because it is one of the bikes I am "considering" as an addition to my garage.
 
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