• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

Dino to Synthetic(???)

Forums New posts
Fittysom'n

Fittysom'n

0
Inactive Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2008
Messages
1,477
Reaction score
0
Location
Stockton, CA
I obviously didn't punch the right combination of words into the Search feature.....
So I'm gonna ask here:

How may miles do y'all abuse your 1255cc Bandit motor on Dino sludge before switching up to semi or full-on Synthetic???
 
As soon as i was done with the break-in miles, I switched to Amsoil full synthetic and havent looked back yet.
 
Your gonna get a heck of a lot of answers on this one. ha ha ha ha. I really have not heard anything from Suzuki about this subject. In the BMW circles,(I was on BMWs' for 10 r so years and 130,000 miles ) it was recommended that you do at least 8000 miles before switching so the rings would be good and seated.
Then your gonna get the ones that have run over 200,000 mles on dino sluge. ;-) And, are still going all over the world.
 
Agreed. Doing a simple search on oil and you'll get answers.

I to 600 on stock oil, went again to 3500 on stock oil (as the dealer changed it at 600), then started using Rotella synthetic with 6oz X-1R at each oil change. I change it avery 3500 miles. I'm happy - hope the motor is.
 
Run your search across all of the forums and you'll get a lot of hits on this topic...a lot of hits!
 
Religion, politics, oil threads: any one of these topics will have impassioned responses, for myself I'm not interested in the first two. :yawn:
My oil? synthetic please.
(is this considered trolling.....?) :ponder:
 
I put in synthetic at 100kms (yes, 100) in every bike I have owned for the last 20 years... Corvettes roll of the assembly line with Mobil 1 syn in their crank case....
 
Thanks guys.
There are message boards for some bikes out there with folks who subscribe to a dogma of specific miles before switching to synthetic. I just wanted to see if there was anything like that for the 1255cc Bandit.

I did the obligatory 600 mile change of oil & filter (wishing that I had done it at 300 miles), 2,500 miles later I changed just the oil. Then recently with 5,000 miles on the clock, I switched out the filter with a K&N oil filter and the oil with more 'on sale' Pennzoil Motorcycle Oil. I have enough of the cheap Pennzoil for another two changes.

From the responses above, it looks like I can go synthetic after I run out of my 'on sale' Pennzoil. I'll first change out to:
Mobile 1 4T blend (a formula made for Triumph)
and then I may consider going to Triumph's full on Synthetic Mobil 1 T (at TWICE the price of the blend!)
-or-
return to a standard favorite among oil groupies, Amsoil for motorcycles
-and I might check the going (increased) price of-
Rotella synthetic, going no more than 2,000 miles between changes......

----------------------------------------------------------

Sounds like I can go synthetic right away, but I paid a little over $2.00 a quart for that Pennzoil for motorcycles; so I'll just use it up!
 
After 5K miles on old filter (change every other change) oil did not look bad was still clear and I thought darn, I could have gotten a few more miles out of it. Moble 1 4T (10W-40), also noticed when I was running low on money and bought the Suzuki 20W-50 (STD) my mileage dropped and shifting got clunky. I pick up the Moble 1 4T @ the auto part store for $9.45 a quart, stealer wants $14.75 a quart. Suzuki oil is only $3.00 a quart.

Mark
 
Try the Rotella Blue synthetic when you're low on bucks... I use it all the time... maybe 'cause I'm always low on bucks.
 
Fittysom'n said:
Rotella synthetic, going no more than 2,000 miles between changes......
Click to expand...

A lot of us have been using Rotella Synth and definitely longer than 2000 miles. You'd have to do some serious racing or riding on dirt that you'd have to change it that often. Why so little confidence in it? It's made for tough diesels. You think it can't stand up to your bike? It will for sure do better than dino juice and can at least go for as long as your regular change schedule says.
 
I drive all my new bikes home and change to Mobil 1..
I know some brands i forgot which do not ship there bikes with oil..
but instead have about 250cc to 500cc of machine oil,,,, Do the dealers drain the machine oil before filling up with cheap oil,, NO,,
I had them drain my KLR 650 with me standing there, The tech said "dam I did not know that stuff was in there,,,,My GSXR came prefilled with some kind of snot like oil, Yes it was drained in 28 miles,,,,,
Mike
 
Awesome, a dino vs. synth oil thread! This has to be, like, the first one ever!
 
My reason for changing the Rotella at 2,000 mile intervals, was based on my experience using it in my 2003 FZ1. Rotella allowed my gear box to shift with not so much as a clunk, just 'snick'..... right into the next gear! Good stuff!
-- but --
about 1,750 miles later, the clunk would slowly return. I'd simply buy another inexpensive container of the stuff, change out my oil, and return to the sexy *snick* gear-change after gear-change.
It was suggested on the FZ1 site I frequented, that the FZ's really shear their oil quickly & easily. We collectively LOVED the affordable Rotella, and I chose to change it out shortly after the clunk in my gear box would return.
 
Maybe just me, but I go to 4000 miles before switching to Amsoil full synthetic motorcycle specific 10W-40 oil.
I've used it in all my bikes except the 58 Sportster.

:rider:
 
It doesn't really matter when you switch....Synthetic oil will not hinder break in....I think that idea came from folks that really didn't understand what synthetic oil is...Synthetic oil is just that....oil....It's merely oil derived from man made processes which results in a substance that is in a more refined state and has a few advantages such as resistance to shear, higher flash points, and flow properties...It's not more slippery....The molecules that make up the oil are more uniform and this is what helps some of the flow and shear resistant properties.

Synthetic oils are good oils..Their main advantage is their ability to maintain properties for a little longer than a conventional...

In reality, as long as proper weights and oil change intervals are used there would likely be no difference in engine wear....The only reason I can see using a synthetic is if you are in extreme cold or want a little extra margin of safety if you plan on a longer oil change interval....So use what you think you may need....Use a name brand oil at the correct weight, synthetic or conventional, and change it at the proper interval....
 
Thanks for the responses.

I know the oil issue has been belabored over (and over again) on multiple boards......
but I continue to read them anyway.

There is almost ALWAYS (at least) one post with information that I haven't heard or read before. And frankly, that's true with absolutely EVERY topic under the sun that has been milled & meshed over, talked about and regurgitated, and tainted with unwelcome trite comments complaining about 'em. The most frustrating thing about reading these frequently revisited threads, is having to filter through the smarzy comments offering NO new information.... just noise.

BMW owners subscribed to their own dogma regarding when to change from dino sludge to synth' or blends, the FZ1 site had some interesting observations regarding shearing, Bonneville sites touted the superiority of the specific blend made for Triumphs by Mobil 1,....... so with my first Suzuki in over 38 years of ownership, I jus' hadda ask.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top