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Which K&N Air Filter?

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GregH

GregH

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I'm buying a K&N Air Filter but cannot log onto the K&N website to confirm the correct product number for a 2007 GSF1250 S.
Holeshot lists the SU-6000 but Performance USA lists the SU-6505.

For those of you who have switched to the K&N - which is the correct one?
 
I've found several sites with lookup tables that point to the SU-6505 for Bandits beyond 2005 - and the K&N site is still down.
 
Ditto (again) on the SU6000 per Dale....

Only thing I can think of, Dale has us remove the little rubber inset between box & lid. I can't remember if the instructions that come with the K&N suggests removing it or not.... if it doesn't, then it must be a Dale fitting thang.

I looked around for the rubber thingie when I took the lid off a second time, but couldn't find it. Consequently the K&N filter and lid didn't snug into place.... the rubber inset was in the way, finding it at the box not the lid as I had before. After I dug it out, everything fit quite well.
 
I spoke to K&N Technical Support who confirmed that the SU-6505 is the model for a 2007 Suzuki GSF1250/S.
 
GregH said:
I spoke to K&N Technical Support who confirmed that the SU-6505 is the model for a 2007 Suzuki GSF1250/S.
Click to expand...

Quick note, Dale used the SU6000 originally (and did/does all his testing on it) as K&N did not have a 1250 specific model when he started his testing. The SU6000 is used in the Bandit 1200 and as Dale found, would fit the 1250 with a slight modification to the airbox. You can use either but K&N obviously made the SU6505 to fit the 1250;-)
 
SU 6505 has a smaller filter and more rubber then the SU 6000, both will fit but the 6505 will let in more air. Up to you which one you want.

Mark
 

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mi1lertm said:
SU 6505 has a smaller filter and more rubber then the SU 6000, both will fit but the 6505 will let in more air. Up to you which one you want.

Mark
Click to expand...

Sooooo,

If the 6505 has a smaller filter and more rubber, how does it let more air in?

PhilS
 
Just an interesting side note......

I was advised NOT to cut the airbox open (the famous airbox mod) to allow more airflow WITHOUT doing a remap of some sort due to getting "too much" air and it running too lean.

Anyone have any thoughts on that?
 
I only have a 300 mile ride experience to refer to:

I took my bike apart in anticipation of my Stage 1 parts arriving; they didn't. I replaced the plugs, pulled the snorkel, cut the 1 1/2" hole.... and anxiously waited at my front door until 8:30 Friday night. But the Big Brown was a no show.
Saturday was RIDE day, so I replaced the snorkel, put the factory filter back in (10,000 miles dirty), buttoned everything up and went riding.

My MIVV muffler was flowing too-much too-easily in the bike's unmodified state, so I rigged up a "snuffer" for additional back pressure, it worked.

So Saturday morning I set out with new plugs in the bike, a free flowing exhaust (toned down a bit), a 1 1/2" hole drilled in the air box lid, snorkel back in place, and a dirty factory filter.

Cutting to the chase, new plugs made a world of difference in how the bike ran....
- but -
that puppy wound out with EASE to red line with that 1 1/2" hole drilled in the lid and a free flowing can! I can NOT claim to have gotten less gas mileage, and could detect absolutely NOTHING that would lead me to believe the hole was adversely effecting my performance.

Hey.... for what it's worth.

(But completing the job, and doing it right with the addition of a K&N and the TFI is sweeeeEET! ) :trust:
 
PhilS said:
Just an interesting side note......

I was advised NOT to cut the airbox open (the famous airbox mod) to allow more airflow WITHOUT doing a remap of some sort due to getting "too much" air and it running too lean.

Anyone have any thoughts on that?
Click to expand...

Again, RWORM has pulled the air box and secondarys, Sproggy has done the same. RWORM has dyno'ed his setup and has A/F raitos that are ok. Since he has the K&N's (W/O air box) and full header setup I would think that a hole in the air box should not be an issue. I myself cut a 1" hole added the K&N and Yosh TRS with no fuel adder and I thought the bike ran better then stock. Since you have a FI setup it will notice a lean condition and self richen to a point due to the O2 sensor. The bandit is a air restricted bike to keep it to the 103 stock HP that came on my title.

Mark
 
GregH said:
Air Box Mod: all you do is drill a hole in the middle of the air box lid?
Click to expand...

Look at the holeshot website under stage 1 air box mod, there are pix of where to drill. It is near the top centered.

For stage II I cut the whole top off leaving the four corners and bead only. I do not think that it is a free flow as the K&N's RWORM have so it should be ok to take the top off completly. New air box lid only costs about $32 or so, you might want to buy an extra one to experiment on.

Mark
 
Here's what I don't understand.

Dale started with a small hole and ran the dyno tests. Then increased the hole size slowly and incrementally larger and larger each time doing the dyno runs and once the dyno tests started to degrade due to "sucking too much air", he closed the hole back up and ended up with an optimum size. I guess this is due to bypassing the O2 sensor adn doing the map manually. So with the O2 sensor in place, it continually adds gas to meet the amount of air coming in?? This seems too easy.......
 
You forget that he had the TFI as well. W/O the TFI all bets are off. As stated, RWORM has no air box and has A/F raito < 15 and his bike hauls butt as seen in his vid's. Dale was trying to dialin the TFI and the bandit. No matter what hole size you use it will still be more restictive then the full K&N setup which has shown to be ok A/F wise. Try a small hole and take it from there. I had a 1" hole w/slipon and it was better then stock as did Fifty.

Mark
 
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