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Oil Drain Plug Thread Pitch

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GregH

GregH

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Does anyone know the thread pitch of the oil drain plug on the 2007 Bandit?
My JB-Weld fix of the stripped threads is failing after a few oil changes so it's time for a real fix (using a Time-Sert). But I want to make sure I get the right part and cannot find the info specific to the size of the oil drain plug in the service manual.

Thanks for the help.
 
GregH said:
Does anyone know the thread pitch of the oil drain plug on the 2007 Bandit?
My JB-Weld fix of the stripped threads is failing after a few oil changes so it's time for a real fix (using a Time-Sert). But I want to make sure I get the right part and cannot find the info specific to the size of the oil drain plug in the service manual.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

If your " thread pitch" was right...your drain plug would work;-)

Do you need to know the next size larger bolt?
Or an oil pan.....
http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorcycle-gsf1250sa-bandit-2007/o/m17390
 
If you're not in a giant hurry, I'll be changing my oil this morning getting the bike ready for my up coming 5K mile trip. I can compare it against a tap and come in a post it while waiting for the oil to drain all the way.
 
Looks like a 14 x 1.25
Same as an American 20 threads per inch. I checked it just because the SAE thread gauge was there also amongst my taps and dies and heli coils and etc. ;-)

I check the threads against a 12 x 1.25 tap and check size with metric capillars. I didn't have an metric Dies that big.

Years ago I used to do helicoil stuff for guys that ruined stuff including me. :trust:
Either 20 bucks a hole for me or have a shop take the heads off. Never had a problem with shavings in the cylinder. Greased the heck out of everything before starting and used a suction hose to get anything that did fall in there.

Thanks for the Site Bandito. I have it booked marked now just in case. ;-)
 
Okay, now to move to a more radical question:
Can I lay the bike down on its left side in order to drill and tap the pan without having to disassemble everything?

If I'm going to take off the pan I must first remove the radiator, hoses, and the exhaust system. I'll need new gaskets for everything when reassembling. This will be somewhat time consuming and expensive.

Since I don't have a work table to get the bike up high (in order to drill from underneath) what if I drained coolant, gas, and oil? Could I lay the bike down and not cause some other kind of horrid problem? Assuming I protect the bike from scratches, etc., and have a couple of friends help carefully lower and raise the bike - could it be done?
 
GregH said:
Okay, now to move to a more radical question:
Can I lay the bike down on its left side in order to drill and tap the pan without having to disassemble everything?

If I'm going to take off the pan I must first remove the radiator, hoses, and the exhaust system. I'll need new gaskets for everything when reassembling. This will be somewhat time consuming and expensive.

Since I don't have a work table to get the bike up high (in order to drill from underneath) what if I drained coolant, gas, and oil? Could I lay the bike down and not cause some other kind of horrid problem? Assuming I protect the bike from scratches, etc., and have a couple of friends help carefully lower and raise the bike - could it be done?
Click to expand...

I would high recommend removing the oil pan to install a thread repair insert and drill out the hole on at least a good drill press or preferrably a mill with the oil pan clamped down for either of the two, for unless you have had a lot of experiance with this kind of repair its very easy to drill the hole crooked or worse have the drill grab in the material and ending up with an over size hole to tap, or possible having the drill pulled up into the hole so quickly if it grabbed that you could end up damaging something behind the oil pan.
 
What Bandito said :dude:

Now if you were gonna Heli coil it, the tools are a little different and I would take that chance. But not with an insert. ;-)
 
Crud (for lack of a more powerful expletive). I was hoping to make this easy and cheap but it looks like it will be neither.
 
GregH said:
Crud (for lack of a more powerful expletive). I was hoping to make this easy and cheap but it looks like it will be neither.
Click to expand...

Its also very important after drilling the hole nice and prependicular to the machined sealing surface on the oil pan that you tap it sqaure with the hole also, for depending on how far out of square the threads are the drain plug and sealing washer are not going to have a good 100% surface contact with the machined surface on the oil pan which could cause it to leak, and every time you tighen up the drain plug you'll be trying to force the plug flat against the surface of the oil pan putting undue stress on the threads.
 
Greg,

I'm sure Andy and Bandito have more experience than I do but...I did mine without a drill-just using a t-handle or ratchet. the time-sert website even talks about doing it this way. Pour a quart or 2 of cheap oil through when you're done to flush any chips and you're done. Check their website. I never got a power drill or drill press near my bike.
 
Yes on that. Some kits have what is a double tap. One the size of the hole you just messed up leading to one a step larger. You come in with the regular sized and it guides the tool cutting the larger threads. Most Heli-coil kits of old are like that. I Have several kits in my shop from when I used to do that years ago. The insert is a better fix a far as leak proof.

Some kits just tell you what size bit to use to drill out the hole and then you come in with a tap and then the insertion tool with the insert. I have a few of those also. What Bandito is concerned about is with a hand drill, drilling the hole offset or wallering it (for lack of a better word )is pretty easy to do. Then you either have a crooked hole to tap or a major mess on your hands with the latter.

Heck, don't be afraid of it. You only learn by doing. Sometimes near no knowledge on a job let's you do it in ways we never though of. ;-) And be successful at it.

Just let us know what you did and how it worked. I'm never too old to learn till I hit the graveyard. ;-)
 
For the next guy searching for the answer:

2007 Suzuki GSF1250S Bandit Oil Drain Bolt measurements:
Bolt diameter: 14mm
Thread Pitch: 1.25
Length: 13mm
M14 x 1.25 x 13
 
GregH said:
For the next guy searching for the answer:

2007 Suzuki GSF1250S Bandit Oil Drain Bolt measurements:
Bolt diameter: 14mm
Thread Pitch: 1.25
Length: 13mm
M14 x 1.25 x 13
Click to expand...

Thanks! My stock drain plug is pitted (2009 model) and weeps ever so slightly. Next oil change it is getting replaced. I may try ordering from the link listed above if the dealer won't let me "sort" for a good'un.
 
TIME-SERT INSTALLATION SUCCESS

I successfully installed a Time-Sert M14x1.25 thread insert into the oil pan.
I don't have pictures because of grease and oil used during the installation. My camera has an aversion to grease and oil.

The Time-Sert is a fantastic tool and the installation went very smoothly. The only hiccup was not getting the insert flush into the hole...at first.
I called Bill at Time-Sert and he gave me a tip:
Oil the Insert Driver and screw the insert onto it until slightly snug. Use the Insert Driver to screw the insert into the newly-threaded hole (rather than screwing the insert in by hand). This drove the insert to flush and screwing it through I was able to lock it in.

Voila, steel threads matched to a steel bolt - no more stripped threads. It holds tight and drip-free. Woohoo, I'm back in business! :clap:

P.S. Thanks Steve Sardone for helping to show me the way.
 
Can you guys tell me if a 1996 bandit S 600 uses the same bolt?

ive been dealing with a petcock, and seem to have misplaced the bolt for good this time!!

thanks, tom
 
At ronayers.com, you can search the fiche to find the part number you need, and then plug it in and see what other bikes the same part fits.

Of you could just check the part for both bikes and see if they're the same part number.
 
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