Exhaust Questions

I've been looking at exhausts and have a few questions.

Some of the companies sell re-packing kits and others don't. Does this mean that some don't need to be repacked? Also, most sell some form of inserts or noise suppressors. How effective are these?

I would like to replace the can on my Bandit, but don't want to have to deal with constantly repacking it, nor with too much noise-I must admit that I like the quiet for long distance riding, which is the majority of what I do.

Thanks.

I have a Yoshimura TRS. With the noise insert in, it's got a nice sound, and not too noisy. With the insert out, it's several dB louder, but still not too bad. it's a lot lighter than stock and they look great. With the standard fit they won't clear the Givi V35 side bags, but that's easily sorted with a bracket extension made out of aluminium.

They are re-packable, but I haven't known anyone need to.

I have a Holeshot slip on. It is offered with a Touring MidPipe to give you the Givi bag clearance you need, As far as repacking, I understand they all do over time, but I have no idea of the interval. Mine is off and with Dale now to get a new black shell (because I wanted to) and he is repacking it since it will be apart. Dale's service and personal involvement can not be topped. Consider that before you buy anywhere else. He also offers a DB Killer to quiet it up a bit.

The single most annoying thing I've found with an after-market muffler, is the occasional need to repack it. So I make it a point to seek out mufflers with mechanical bafflings that don't need repacking, such as the disc system used in the likes fo Supertrap. I might also research the better mufflers with a reputation for it's quality and ability to stand up to thousands of miles without having to repack them.... such as a Yoshimura. My choice this time around was to go with a French made MIVV X-Cone, 25,000 miles so far.....

Bar none the BEST muffler I've ever had, is Dale Walker's 17" Street Holeshot with a black composite wrap. I abused mine for over 35,000 miles on a 130 hp Yamaha FZ1. It sounded great without being annoyingly loud; but wind that puppy out, and the music is a concert of sound that will solicit the most approving comments you've ever heard.
His "Street" version is more densly packed, not burning out as quickly, and mine NEVER got any louder as I logged on the miles...... but over time, it's simply gotta burn out a bit. So this is the beauty of a Holeshot can..... for another $40 you can buy a beautifully made insert that goes in the end of the can's tip and muffle the sound.... for those long freeway drones when you don't want the noise, through a little Mayberry where Barney might be waiting for loud pipes to increase the town's revenue, or when the can has over 100,000 miles on it and needs a little some'n some'n to quiet it down.

Bottom line, you get what you pay for. A Scorpion is gonna be inexpensive to get into (read 'cheaply made'), and will need repacking sooner than other cans..... but they're not assembled in such a manner as to make it easy to repack. Don't try to save money, but 'quality' and never worry about having to address your decision to have been cheap.....

I'm running a Yosh TRS with a homemade DB reducer. A 3/4 inch washer welded to a piece of tubing that I split and inserted into the end of the can. Drilled a hole and put a small nut and bolt there to make sure it stays as I lost one last year in Colorado. Not loud at all even after about 20,000 or so miles with it in place. When I start my bike at crowed places, I'm not attracting much attention as in people looking to see where the noise is coming from.
I would of stayed stock but just didn't like that LARGE stock Muffler.

I'm running Give PLX bag setup and clearing the right bag by about 1/2 inch but have had no problems with heat on the bag. For the last trip I did put a piece of shiny alu tape on the bottom of the right bag but feeling inside the empty bag on test runs , it seems just about as barely warm inside. Sitting in the sun actually gets the bags hotter than the exhaust when running.

I used Dale's Holeshot 14" muffs on Bandit 1250, SV650 and now have one custom fab'd to the '09 K1300S. Have 21K miles on the Beemer and the sound of the Holeshot has not changed since installed at 6K miles. No dB killer needed since the bike has an electronically-controlled exhaust flapper valve inside end of collector. Can barely hear the 14"long, 2" core until I rip the throttle hard over. Absolutely beautiful sound and even better when I use the factory quickshifter winding up through gears. Ceramic packing is not easy to burn out. The sport panniers have plenty of clearance. Dale's muffler is the longest-lasting I've found with str-thru core; easy to polish up with Meguiar's Scratch-X.



Previous B12.5

1 7/8" core on the SV650... incredible sound from this little guy!

.... and the Holeshot on my (new to me) SV650, LOVE IT!

That is manly!!!!! I love that bike. Whenever I get some cash (ha!!!) an SV1000S is in my future........

(Phil, out of fear of being accused of hijacking an exhaust thread, I'll try to keep this short: I wanted a small bike easy to climb onto and off of, something little and fun, a bike to go canyon carving on. The irony is..... after replacing the OEM suspension with springs that can support my 230 pounds, I come NOWHERE EVEN NEAR being able to reach the ground from my cut down and narrowed seat! Though the smallest in displacement & weight I've had in over 25 years, it's also the tallest bike I've ever owned; and the seat height is a bit of a (major) problem.......)

D'OH!

Fittysom'n said:

...and the seat height is a bit of a major problem...

Click to expand...

Then just don't stop!

achesley said:

I'm running a Yosh TRS with a homemade DB reducer. A 3/4 inch washer welded to a piece of tubing that I split and inserted into the end of the can. Drilled a hole and put a small nut and bolt there to make sure it stays as I lost one last year in Colorado. Not loud at all even after about 20,000 or so miles with it in place. When I start my bike at crowed places, I'm not attracting much attention as in people looking to see where the noise is coming from.
I would of stayed stock but just didn't like that LARGE stock Muffler.

Click to expand...

I want to make one for my bike. Would it be possible for you to post a pic of your home made DB reducer.

Thanks

Check it out..... it may already be made for you.

I mounted one of these baffles in the end of my current can in an attempt to quiet it, and it worked.... but I have since tuned the machine to work without the added back-pressure.

http://www.bigcitythunder.com/pages/thundermonsters.html

Want to add a slip-on exhaust without having to add a tuning kit. Akrapovic advertises a street legal slip-on for the Bandit 1250 that requires no tweaking of the engine tune.
Has anyone had any experience with this exhaust slip-on.

I don't know,
but if it's an Akrapovic and Akrapovic is making the claim.....
they just happen to be among the top 5% of all the after-market exhausts out there! I would go for it and believe that your bike will be fine.

1) With my very free flowing MIVV X-Cone slip-on muffler and it's DB killer in place, my bike ran juuuust fine with a simple 1" hole drilled in the lid of my air box.... nothing more.

2) When I added a K&N air filter, and Dobeck TFI (from Holeshot), the bike ran better with my modified DB killer (that I drilled holes into) still in the end of my muffler.

3) When I removed the secondaries, put a modified factory header in place without it's CAT', the bike ran it's best without my DB killer installed.

Fittysom'n said:

I don't know,
but if it's an Akrapovic and Akrapovic is making the claim.....
they just happen to be among the top 5% of all the after-market exhausts out there! I would go for it and believe that your bike will be fine.

1) With my very free flowing MIVV X-Cone slip-on muffler and it's DB killer in place, my bike ran juuuust fine with a simple 1" hole drilled in the lid of my air box.... nothing more.

2) When I added a K&N air filter, and Dobeck TFI (from Holeshot), the bike ran better with my modified DB killer (that I drilled holes into) still in the end of my muffler.

3) When I removed the secondaries, put a modified factory header in place without it's CAT', the bike ran it's best without my DB killer installed.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info...I didn't know Akrapovic was that highly rated.

I was looking at the akrapovic site and they were claiming a gain of 14.8 hp with their full exhaust for the 1250...After looking at what the gains were with some of the other Suzuki models it appears to me that the bandit has a lot of unrealized potential even though the motor is quite impressive in stock form...

whitesands said:

I was looking at the akrapovic site and they were claiming a gain of 14.8 hp with their full exhaust for the 1250...After looking at what the gains were with some of the other Suzuki models it appears to me that the bandit has a lot of unrealized potential even though the motor is quite impressive in stock form...

Click to expand...

The 1250 really could use a set of cams to carry the power past 7k.

Yoshimura released a set for the 1250 awhile back and they should really help these piped engines go w/o loss in reliability.

Anyone with an Akrapovic know how much clearance to side cases (OEM)?

erda said:

Anyone with an Akrapovic know how much clearance to side cases (OEM)?

Click to expand...

On the Akrapovic website is a good photo of this . Just select the
2010 GSX 1250F model. Good amount of clearance between the OEM right side case and muffler.

mountainmotor said:

The 1250 really could use a set of cams to carry the power past 7k.

Yoshimura released a set for the 1250 awhile back and they should really help these piped engines go w/o loss in reliability.

Click to expand...

This is a joke!! Isn't it the drop off in power a 7K is the secondary throttle plates closing. Remove them and a 1250 continues pulling like a train to and just a little past redline; there is a cutout up there somewhere.

Dink

Dink.1170 said:

This is a joke!! Isn't it the drop off in power a 7K is the secondary throttle plates closing. Remove them and a 1250 continues pulling like a train to and just a little past redline; there is a cutout up there somewhere.

Dink

Click to expand...

Do you see anything, anywhere in my post that spoke about dips in the rpm range or throttle bodies?

No, it's no joke what additional cam lift and duration will do for power . The exhaust cam on the 1250 is puny. Degreed properly, i expect to see TQ run flat to 9K , perhaps a bit farther with the Yoshimura cams and 4-2-1 pipe.

What would the price be to put it all together?

I guess it's nice to get all the power you can out of a bike. LOL. I remember in 78 and 79 taking a 77 Suzuki 750 out to 870 , cams, pipes, ignition, 29mm smooth bore carbs. All Yosh stuff except the carbs and ignition. The only way you could enjoy it then was hard on the gas. Went both ways with lobe centers due to drilling out bolt holes for the cam sprocket and slotting them. Could had a little more bottom torque retarting them ( I think that's the right direction, been a long time ago ) but never was an enjoyable just riding about bike any more. But it was fun building and tuning on it for a few years.