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Gilk51
09-13-2005, 11:08 PM
Hey TM,

Where did you get your Motohansa "Twin Max"? Seems to be an Aussie company... G'Day...

Tourmeister
09-13-2005, 11:32 PM
http://adventurersworkshop.com/twinmax.htm

Tell Andrew that you found out about it on the TWT site ;-) No, I don't get any kickbacks... yet :-P

Tx Rider
09-14-2005, 10:31 AM
Looks really cool, too bad they don't seem to have a quadmax. :)

Tourmeister
09-14-2005, 01:45 PM
John, What you do is hook the left hose to the reference cylinder, typically the #1. Then you just move the right hose among the remaining cylinders. It's really quite easy to use. For the GS, it makes a HUGE difference in how smooth the engine runs.

HiSPL
09-14-2005, 02:06 PM
This is where I bought mine...

http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=twinmax

Gilk51
09-14-2005, 10:37 PM
Thanks guys - I will be ordering one soon.

Just got a box from Adventurer's Workshop (Andrew on the return address) with a Stebel compact air horn for Susan's scooter. Guess I'll be ordering again... :rolleyes:

Adan
09-15-2005, 07:09 AM
Chuck,

I've got one that you can borrow for as long as you need it, I can bring it to the Plano meet'n greet tonight after I get off of my PT job (between 8 and 9 PM).

Velocipede
09-15-2005, 02:31 PM
I sync my carbs with a tool I made from Home Depot parts for under $10:

20 ft. of clear poly tubing, 1/4" ID
Two short lengths (4-6") of 1/4" OD poly tubing
One wooden yardstick
5-10 zip ties

Strap the long tubing to the yardstick with a "U" at the bottom with the zip ties, leaving equal lengths of free tubing to each end. Fill tubing about 10-12" up the yardstick (both sides of U) with engine or transmission oil. Use smaller tubing as an interconnect between my the vacuum ports on my carbs and the sync system. Hang the yardstick above the bike and sync the carbs by equalizing the oil levels.

Tourmeister
09-15-2005, 02:43 PM
David, I have seen that setup for systems where the pressures are identical, like my GS. Will it also work on bikes where there is supposed to be a fixed difference? The VFR 800 I had required different pressures for each intake, but all referenced off the #1 intake.

kurt
09-15-2005, 04:53 PM
Most bikes I have synched, use the #3 cylinder as a reference (ZRX, Bandit, ZR-7, Concours). I think it has to do with the vacuum line on most Japanese bikes coming off the #3. All were set equally, but the Concours is a special challenge. You have to determine what rpm range you operate in and set it accordingly.

dennis
09-15-2005, 05:15 PM
On purchasing motorcycle related tools.....I made my brake bleeder using a poly milk jug, some rubber and clear tubing and my shop vac. Plug the clear tubing into a hole made near the neck of the jug and insert the clear tubing into the hole you made to rest at or near the bottom of the jug. Connect the tubing using the rubber section to the bleeder nut on the caliper. Plug the shop vac hose into the neck of the jug (some duck tape may help) and bleed to your heart's content .

When you’re done, remove the tube, cap the jug and throw it away…..neat……..and, almost free.

Gilk51
09-15-2005, 08:07 PM
Chuck,

I've got one that you can borrow for as long as you need it, I can bring it to the Plano meet'n greet tonight after I get off of my PT job (between 8 and 9 PM).
Thanks Adan, but I am not going to make it tonight. I'll probably go ahead and get one of these gadgets, so I can do a throttle body sync just on impulse, maybe at 3 in the morning or something. :rolleyes:

Velocipede
09-16-2005, 08:14 AM
David, I have seen that setup for systems where the pressures are identical, like my GS. Will it also work on bikes where there is supposed to be a fixed difference? The VFR 800 I had required different pressures for each intake, but all referenced off the #1 intake.

I wouldn't recommend it with the crude setup I use. If you used mercury, maybe, as then you could get a true pressure difference from mmHg and use the columns to set correctly. I've seen this setup for sale, but price is similar to the Twin Max. Digital is probably the best way to go.

I only have to set all four equal. I usually bump up idle speed, then sync 1-2, then 3-4, then 2-3. I do see a noticeable improvement in throttle response from idle. Less vibration at lower rpms too.

Jack Giesecke
09-16-2005, 08:27 AM
I'll stick with my carb stix mercury manometers. I've found they're quite accurate and easy to use. They have four tubes. For six cylinders, I balance four, then switch two of 'em over to the other two and balance them, then check by switching the two I didn't switch the first time, if that makes sense. The manometers have no moving parts to get messed up, what I like about 'em, and you just adjust the mercury levels to be even with each other.

dennis
09-16-2005, 03:33 PM
For most bikes, actual mm Hg is not important......it is the relative readings that are used to make the adjustments. I adjust the BMW so that both cylinders are at the same level of liquid with no regard for the actual readings. The actual readings would need to be corrected for temperature and pressure if absolute numbers were necessary...I'll leave that for the F1 and NHRA boys.

So, one can use the clear plastic tubing with oil for TB sync and achieve the same results.

And if per chance, your engine injests a bit of the oil in the tubing?.....so what. Oil is good for upper cylinders.....two strokes love it!

kc69
09-19-2005, 08:30 PM
the concours is referenced off cylinder #2 thats the one that doesnt have an adjusting scew , its got the throttle cables attached to it , but hes right about adjusting to the rpm range that you use the most on the road , it makes a huge difference and i dont really care how smooth the bike idles as long as its smooth at 80 mph , i use a morgan carb tune from C.S.T. and it works a lot better than any of the other ones out there , ive tried them all , i promise it really does , no jumping around like the twinmax , no mercury sucked into the motor like the motion pro , no trans fluid sucked into the motor like the homemade deal , yes i made one of those too , the morgan worked the best for me , im fixing to go through them again , as i just did my 3rd valve adjust at 10k , also drilling and removing the EPA mandated plugs on the fuel screws and adjusting them makes a huge difference both at wot and in cruise smoothness , all of mine were off big time , i gained almost 6 mpg and a lot of vibration went away especially at 100 plus , now all my plugs are light tan , stead of choclate to almost black .

Sleepy Weasel
09-19-2005, 10:34 PM
http://adventurersworkshop.com/twinmax.htm

Tell Andrew that you found out about it on the TWT site ;-) No, I don't get any kickbacks... yet :-P

It says you can use it for any number of cylinders, but I can't figure out where to hook up the 2nd line on the Sherpa. :(




:D

Gilk51
09-20-2005, 06:52 AM
It says you can use it for any number of cylinders, but I can't figure out where to hook up the 2nd line on the Sherpa. :(
:D
Aw, man, your need some learning on this one - you have to find another Sherpa & compare the two! :nana

(uh, but now you have to figure out which one is correct) ;-)

Sleepy Weasel
09-26-2005, 06:15 PM
Aw, man, your need some learning on this one - you have to find another Sherpa & compare the two! :nana

(uh, but now you have to figure out which one is correct) ;-)

I'm going to guess that the faster one is correct.

Gilk51
09-26-2005, 10:49 PM
Looks like I have acquired a Twin Max from a guy in California from the StromTrooper forum... http://www.texasarlingtoncs.us/pics/smilies/righton.gif

So, Sleepy Jimbo, you can borrow it if you can find another, faster Sherpa... :rolleyes: