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Going to get a '09 1250 ABS

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BossMaverick

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So I have a desire to get a newer and more reliable bike to replace my very labor intensive Yamaha XS1100. I was researching bikes online and there wasn't any models that were grabbing me until I discovered the Bandits. I was wanting a bike with fuel injection, ABS, power, preferably shaft drive, not surrounded by plastic, comfortable for long trips for my tall body, and other things. The Bandit is a home run except the chain drive. I found a dealer in my original home state that will sell me a left over 2009 model with ABS for $7,500. For that price, I can definitely put up with the chain drive. I think I'm going for it.

I will be riding it home. It will be a little over 650 miles. I've done this trip a few times on my big old XS1100 dresser in a day without a problem and I'm planning on doing it in one day with the Bandit. Will this be possible? I'm I nuts to ride it all in one day? Oh, and the forecast is looking like 40 degrees.
 
Welcome to the obsession (literally)! :mrgreen:

You want to be sure to vary the RPMs which may be a real pain on a 650-mile maiden voyage. Also, it is generally a good idea to change the oil after a short period of time (I did my first change around 50 miles).

I followed MotoMan's break-in strategy and my 2007 Bandit has been solid. Here is the link MotoMan's Break-In. Of course, this is a controversial topic (just like oil, tire, and windscreen threads) so choose your own path, Grasshopper. :zen:
 
I've ridden 700 in a day several times and I know folks on here have done much more. I love my Bandit, but I will NOT do another 700 mile day again if I can help it. Rides that long cripple me, I am in pain for several days. :giveup:

But, that's just me... I'm old and short, so who knows, for you it might be a cinch.

Also, if it's basically a new bike and you have break-in issues to consider (depending on your philosophy on break in), so it might be difficult to make a long haul right out of the box and follow break-in procedures. But I defer to the real experts here for that one.

Great bike, sooo much torque, I think you will be very happy. :trust:

Now on with the mods..... :rider:

(take out those secondaries)
 
I have thought about the break in. I will have an extra day there to spend with family but I will get out and ride and hopefully put on 100 or more proper break in miles. Also, the first 35 miles of the trip is getting out of a city so I will have stop and go and on and off ramps to help with the break in. I know it's still not an ideal break in but at least it will have some miles on before hitting the interstate.
 
Great bike. Good choice.

My max mileage has been 300-400 miles, but it can be done. Wear some layers.

With the factory seat, you might want to think about some padded cycling shorts and or a seat cover.

Also, wind buffeting might get old with the stock screen. You might be able to get the dealer to install the OEM touring screen from Suzuki.
 
Since you're tall, see if you can get them to put the seat in the optional higher position...For break in, as soon as it warms up good say 10 miles of easy riding you want to give it some throttle but avoid the high rpms...Say you click in 2nd or 3rd gear or so and say you're at 3,000 rpm, give it some hard throttle and then once the rpm reaches 4,000 to 4,500 back off, click to the next gear and repeat...Do this off and on while you ride...Say you're cruising down the highway in 6th or 5th vary the speed by letting off the throttle and allowing the rpms to drop to 3,200 or so, then twist the throttle hard till the rpms climb to 4,000 or so and let off back to you're cruising speed...You just don't want to constantly drone with the light gas pressure required to maintain a cruising speed..It's the gas pressure, not the RPM, which helps the rings to seat...More gas pressure will always result in more rpm but it's not the higher rpm that's helping the rings...It's the force of a large amount of gas getting behind the ring spreading it out so you get a good seal and compression...So while you're stressing it, you're not abusing a new motor...
 
I'd leave the bike 100% stock. It's perfect the way it is. And, it will be very rare if actually left that way.............

Kidding - chuck the seat..........
 
PhilS said:
I'd leave the bike 100% stock. It's perfect the way it is. And, it will be very rare if actually left that way.............

Kidding - chuck the seat..........
Click to expand...

yep - seat, engine case guards with highway pegs make it so much easier and all are easy and quick to install.
 
Man I was just thinking how nice it would be to stretch out the legs a little yesterday...Highway pegs...Sounds like a must for long distance.
 
I have read a lot about the Bandit. Does the secondary balance shaft on the 09 make a difference compared to an 08 model.. the last one I was on was an 03 1200.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk
 
Other than paint schemes, there are no differences between '07, '08 and '09. 2010s were never brought to the US. The 2011 is no longer called a bandit, has a different fairing that's styled more like the GSXR fairings, a new dash, and a larger radiator to cope with the extra heat trapped by the fairing lowers. Mechanically the '11 appears to be the same as previous 1250s.
 
Lemme see how I might answer:

Before you leave to pick up your new bike, contact Alaskaleather.com and have them ship you a sheepskin seat cover. The sheep's wool will make of your ride far more pleasant than without.... really cheap insurance, and your butt will thank you for it.

If there was time and you had the money, replacing that OEM windscreen with at least a Suzuki "touring" screen will be an added bonus. Then later, you can jump in with the rest of us and start posting your impressions of the vaious windscreens you might end up trying..... Oh, and buy an oil filter when you pick the bike up; change the oil and filter when you get home.... don't run the same dyno-sludge with all it's metal bits & parts-is-parts longer than the run-in 650 miles.

How about a tank or tail bag. Stick yer new sheepskin seat cover in there, clean undies, toothbrush, and bottles of water for your ride back. Remember to hydrate, as a cold ride will dry you out as easily as a hot ride.

Read that link provided about Motoman.... I've always wanted to break a brand new engine in that way, but I would have rather used a Dyno to do it right rather than caught for speeding on public roads.

Take the two days for the whole trip.... a third if you could fit it in. If you want to run-in the new engine via the traditional method, you want to avoid from running in the same gear, at the same speed, droning along hour after hour.... Upshift, downshift, slow speed, in-town w/frequent shifting, mid-speeds, high speeds..... turning the engine off and letting it cool down at least a half hour, ride & repeat.... eventually harder acceleration, downshifting from higher speeds, touching 100 mph, lugging it, reving it, riding it.... but don't use any kind of throttle lock or cruise control on your break-in trip home.

This is a low compression engine, you won't need to even consider any mid-grade or premium gas. Look for excuses to pull over, take the off-ramp, back on via the on-ramp, accelerating, slowing, drink a bottle of water, grab an energy drink, carbo-load, stop & stretch, talk to strangers......

In short, have fun.... but work at avoiding any steady speed drones on the new engine.
 
Regarding break-in, and the motoman approach:

I've never understood why people think the company that built the engine, and has to support it under warranty, doesn't know the best procedure for break-in. Pretty much every vehicle manufacturer in the westernized world (I can't speak for a tractor motor made in Turkmenistan) has similar recommendations to Suzuki's. Can they ALL be wrong?
 
Fittysom'n said:
Lemme see how I might answer:

Before you leave to pick up your new bike, contact Alaskaleather.com and have them ship you a sheepskin seat cover. The sheep's wool will make of your ride far more pleasant than without.... really cheap insurance, and your butt will thank you for it.

If there was time and you had the money, replacing that OEM windscreen with at least a Suzuki "touring" screen will be an added bonus. Then later, you can jump in with the rest of us and start posting your impressions of the vaious windscreens you might end up trying..... Oh, and buy an oil filter when you pick the bike up; change the oil and filter when you get home.... don't run the same dyno-sludge with all it's metal bits & parts-is-parts longer than the run-in 650 miles.

How about a tank or tail bag. Stick yer new sheepskin seat cover in there, clean undies, toothbrush, and bottles of water for your ride back. Remember to hydrate, as a cold ride will dry you out as easily as a hot ride.

Read that link provided about Motoman.... I've always wanted to break a brand new engine in that way, but I would have rather used a Dyno to do it right rather than caught for speeding on public roads.

Take the two days for the whole trip.... a third if you could fit it in. If you want to run-in the new engine via the traditional method, you want to avoid from running in the same gear, at the same speed, droning along hour after hour.... Upshift, downshift, slow speed, in-town w/frequent shifting, mid-speeds, high speeds..... turning the engine off and letting it cool down at least a half hour, ride & repeat.... eventually harder acceleration, downshifting from higher speeds, touching 100 mph, lugging it, reving it, riding it.... but don't use any kind of throttle lock or cruise control on your break-in trip home.

This is a low compression engine, you won't need to even consider any mid-grade or premium gas. Look for excuses to pull over, take the off-ramp, back on via the on-ramp, accelerating, slowing, drink a bottle of water, grab an energy drink, carbo-load, stop & stretch, talk to strangers......

In short, have fun.... but work at avoiding any steady speed drones on the new engine.
Click to expand...
:sun:
 
Fittysom'n said:
Lemme see how I might answer:

Before you leave to pick up your new bike, contact Alaskaleather.com and have them ship you a sheepskin seat cover. The sheep's wool will make of your ride far more pleasant than without.... really cheap insurance, and your butt will thank you for it. -For now I will have to use padded bike shorts and just take breaks.

If there was time and you had the money, replacing that OEM windscreen with at least a Suzuki "touring" screen will be an added bonus. Then later, you can jump in with the rest of us and start posting your impressions of the vaious windscreens you might end up trying..... Oh, and buy an oil filter when you pick the bike up; change the oil and filter when you get home.... don't run the same dyno-sludge with all it's metal bits & parts-is-parts longer than the run-in 650 miles. I definitely was planning on an oil change when I get back, windshield will have to wait...

How about a tank or tail bag. Stick yer new sheepskin seat cover in there, clean undies, toothbrush, and bottles of water for your ride back. Remember to hydrate, as a cold ride will dry you out as easily as a hot ride. Got a tank bag and will probably get side saddles. I use a hydration pack in my tank bag so I can drink via the hose while riding.

Read that link provided about Motoman.... I've always wanted to break a brand new engine in that way, but I would have rather used a Dyno to do it right rather than caught for speeding on public roads.

Take the two days for the whole trip.... a third if you could fit it in. If you want to run-in the new engine via the traditional method, you want to avoid from running in the same gear, at the same speed, droning along hour after hour.... Upshift, downshift, slow speed, in-town w/frequent shifting, mid-speeds, high speeds..... turning the engine off and letting it cool down at least a half hour, ride & repeat.... eventually harder acceleration, downshifting from higher speeds, touching 100 mph, lugging it, reving it, riding it.... but don't use any kind of throttle lock or cruise control on your break-in trip home.

This is a low compression engine, you won't need to even consider any mid-grade or premium gas. Look for excuses to pull over, take the off-ramp, back on via the on-ramp, accelerating, slowing, drink a bottle of water, grab an energy drink, carbo-load, stop & stretch, talk to strangers...... Thanks for the on and off ramp tip. Sounds like a good way to keep the RPM varied and help break in the engine.

In short, have fun.... but work at avoiding any steady speed drones on the new engine.
Click to expand...

Thanks for suggestions. Fortunately I've taken this trip a few times on my Yamaha so I know whats in for me as far as the roads, distances, and long distance riding techniques. The only unknown factor is the bike comfort. It's looking like I will be delaying the trip for a week or two so I can have more time to ride in town for break in before the trip back.
 
Quick question for anyone, I have a set of Advanced Motorcycle Products handlebar risers on my current bike. They fit a 7/8" handle bar and it raises the bar 1 1/4 inches and offsets the handlebars by 17mm (.68 inches) (so 1.25" up and .68" back). I'm debating about packing them for the trip and installing them if I need them. Will the raise and offset work with the standard cables and wires on the Bandit? If so, I think I'm going to be a happy camper.
 
Probably not.

There is very little slack in the brake line that runs from the master cylinder to the manifold mounted on the lower triple clamp on ABS bikes. The clutch line "snaps" into a little clip on the left side of the frame, just behind the head tube, and if you pull it out of that clip you'll have plenty of slack there. Wires and throttle cables should be fine. But I seriously doubt you'll be able to get the brake line to work with the risers.
 
BossMaverick,
Take them with you.

For the last 36,000 miles I've been sporting some Gen Mar bar-backs, up an inch/back an inch. Though my cables/lines were maxed out, the bar-backs made for a more comfortable ride. Recently I added a longer brake line so I could rotate my handlebars back closer to me. The irony is that the new wrist angle seems to be creating some bar buzz..... I haven't gone in there yet to loosen everything and try a different angle, because I have some hardware in the way; some day I will.

The single biggest factor that made my handlebars more comfortable for me is something you might not be able to do before your return trip home.... but it may not be an issue for you. The OEM bars have been likened by various magazines to wheelbarrow handles. I couldn't STAND them! Eventually the easiest and least expensive method I tried worked beautifully for me..... I mounted the handlebars to my work bench, took a five foot long pipe and bent the grip angle forward on both sides about an inch. In addition, I mounted my controls about a half inch in from the end of the bars. Worked for me.

Those bar-backs you have may very well work; I think all I did was manipulate a little more wiggle room with some cable or line on the ride side of the handlebars.
 
My bars are up an inch and back about an inch. I had to take the brake line clip out of the frame to get enough slack. Nothing is stressed with my risers, but I couldn't go even a fraction higher or back without replacing the existing lines and cables.
 
I have 1" risers that are straight up, not back and find they are a little too far forward at that height. As soon as I have a chance to get new brake lines I will probably change out the risers for the GenMars or something of the like.

The seat is a critical piece. The stock seat, in either position, caused me extreme pain very quickly on my thighs and bum.....went with a Corbin in the Holeshot customized trim. You can get the stock Corbin or a Sargent too, people on here seem to like them.
 
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