PDA

View Full Version : '83 GL1100A rebuild


1TallTXn
05-25-2011, 12:22 PM
If you saw this thread (http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44509), you know that I started building a '82 GL1100A then found a '83 that was in better condition (Thanks Jack! :thumb: ) and started using the '82 as a parts bike.

I've gotten a fair bit done on the '83 lately.


Forks rebuilt (RaceTech emulators and springs)
New battery
Rusted exhaust swapped for the good one on the '82
Radiator cleaned
Water pump seals replaced (were leaking)
New timing belts
Valves adjusted

The rear master cylinder on the '83 is seized so I'm working on putting the '82 un-linked brakes on the '83.
This is more of a pain then I'd initially thought it would be.
The '82 front calipers use *slightly* different mounts and the '83s calipers use different size pistons between the sides (fault of the linked brake system) so I can't use them.

The rear brakes from the '82 bolts directly onto the '83. At least that part is easy!

The carbs on the '83 are draining down and hydro-locking the engine. Fortunately, I've already rebuilt the carbs from the '82, so I'll slap those on and we should be good to go there.

I need to pull the back off of the digital dash and see why the back-lighting isn't working.
Otherwise, the electrics appear to be fine.

david_
05-26-2011, 11:33 AM
Any recent pics?

1TallTXn
05-26-2011, 11:34 AM
Nope, I'll have to snap some and put them up.

Everything being done right now is mechanical. Cosmetics are coming later.

wanabeguru
05-26-2011, 04:59 PM
Let me know when ur done. my 85 FI wing needs an o-haul!

1TallTXn
05-26-2011, 05:00 PM
Let me know when ur done. my 85 FI wing needs an o-haul!
they made FI in '83!? :eek:


Nevermind, I see what happened now :lol2:

wanabeguru
05-26-2011, 05:01 PM
:zen::trust:

1TallTXn
05-27-2011, 10:08 PM
Built some LED replacements for the dash lights this evening. I'm afraid they're a bit bright in current form, so they may come out and get some new resistors later.

Eventually, I'll replace all the lights with LEDs so I can add extra gizmo's :trust:

I'll take some pics over the weekend and post them up.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
05-27-2011, 11:59 PM
Looking forward to this build. What are you going for with this build? Better than new resto mod, stripped down wing, cafe wing? Oh and MAC makes a sweet exhaust for the wing.

1TallTXn
05-28-2011, 12:50 PM
Current project is getting it back on the road as a reliable commute/touring bike.
Later, I want to add radios (ham) as well as upgraded lighting to free up alternator head room for said radios.

I've always got crazy plans for gadgets running around in my head, we'll see how budget and reality allow that to play into the bike project.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
05-28-2011, 01:56 PM
Current project is getting it back on the road as a reliable commute/touring bike.
Later, I want to add radios (ham) as well as upgraded lighting to free up alternator head room for said radios.

I've always got crazy plans for gadgets running around in my head, we'll see how budget and reality allow that to play into the bike project.

Im curious about the race tech springs and emulators. Guess ill have to wait till its on the road to get feedback on how big of a difference it makes.

The single best thing about the Goldwing electrical system is they are EXTREMELY over engineered. I have seen people run a ton of electronics with absolutely ZERO problems. If yours is like almost every other GL out there tear off ALL those crappy running lights and put you two halogen running lights in the front and a couple LED running lights in the back and your going to be 10X brighter than all the other lights combined and use alot less power to run them.

On a side note, there are a few places that make nice mechanical shocks for the GL's if your planning that route. Ive used Saber Cycle shocks with good results. Progressive makes a nice set of mechanicals also, but they are on the pricey side. If you do plan on using the air shocks, Progressive makes better springs for them and new damper units as well.

Jack Giesecke
05-28-2011, 04:22 PM
Glad to see the old beast is getting some long overdueTLC. :clap: Good runnin' motor, just needs some details. I'd wanted to tackle those brakes with an un-linked set up, but knew there would be some problems to work through. I HATE linked brakes anyway and when the MC froze up, it was buy a new MC or ebay an 82 set up. You're one up on me, there, having one already. :mrgreen: Might have to get someone to machine some caliper spacers, might be cheaper than swapping forks, though those forks needed seals BAD and I never really liked the air fork set up, was thinkin' stiffer springs for 'em.

1TallTXn
05-29-2011, 09:57 AM
I don't have but ~100mi on a stock GL1200 before I did the RaceTech setup on the Father-in-law's '85. I won't be the guy to talk to about a comparison!
The main comment I heard about the GL1100 was their poor handling. Figured since it clearly needed new seals, I might as well put the new guts in it.

The incandescent bulbs will all be going away. I ain't fond of their power draw nor their lack of visibility.
Eventually, I'd like to add some spiffy LED strips around the top box. Plenty of cheap(ish) options for LED strips lights, many are individually addressable for spiffy/eye-catching displays.

Jack, I too dislike Honda's LBS. Especially as implemented in the '83 GL. I suppose it works fine, but I would rather have separated systems.
Unfortunatly, the '82 calipers are smaller between the face of the piston, and the opposite side of the calipers. With the way the '83s caliper brackets are set, the '82s simply won't go on with brake pads in them.
Next thought was that I'd just use the '83 calipers with the un-linked system, but that won't work since the Left side has a larger piston diameter than the Right side.

I found and ordered a '83 rear master cylinder and will be putting that on for now. I'd eventually like to figure out how to unlink the system, but for now, I want it street-worthy.
It'll take some digging, but I suspect I can find some other caliper that will be able to go in place of the goofy '83 calipers or perhaps figure out a way to make the '82s fit.
Another project for another day.

Ran some Seafoam through the carbs and they're still draining down into the engine. I'll be putting the already rebuild '82 carbs on it tomorrow.

1TallTXn
05-29-2011, 09:59 AM
I'll be leaving the rear air system in place for now. Doesn't seem to be leaking much if any. Eventually, I'll probably upgrade but haven't thought much about what route to go yet.
I seem to remember seeing that WP makes a nice set of mechanical shocks that will fit the GL1100. I know Progressive makes some as well. There's a good chance that RaceTech makes some as well.

1TallTXn
05-29-2011, 10:14 AM
A quick look doesn't turn anything up for the GL from RaceTech, but WP does list one for it. No clue on the price though :wary:

Jack Giesecke
05-29-2011, 12:35 PM
The shocks really work okay and I sorta like the air shocks for adjusting for load two up. They were holding air just fine last time I rode it. They've got some corrosion, of course, but you can't see 'em behind the bags. :lol2:

Handling was sucky on that thing, primarily it sits low and things drag at rather mild lean angles. Hard to push it hard enough to cause suspension set up. I used to pump up front and rear to get a decent ride height when I'd go on a twisty road ride just to keep from dragging chassis bits so easily. Thing wore me out in Arizona, heavy to steer, just the nature of the beast when you're in tight switch backs. It ain't no Ducati Monster, after all. But, then, I was glad it wasn't out on I10 GETTING there, stereo playing "Born to be Wild", feet kicked up on the touring pegs. :lol2:

Or was that..."I'm a cowboy, on a steel horse I ride..........." :rofl:

Monkey Wrench Cycles
05-29-2011, 01:50 PM
Here are some accessories for the air shocks to stiffen them up
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e13/frankysfree/Bike%20Stuff/pg785.png

Also, here are the saber cycle shocks i just put on an 87 Wing, in fact i put the 1100 shocks on the 1200 since the shocks for the 1100 are 1" shorter. You could go the other way and put the 1200 shocks if you want an inch higher ride height. Only $109 a set.
http://www.saber-cycle.com/store/product897.html

Also, you might want to look into a fork brace for the front forks as they tend to flex in the corners. Here is one example but not the only one out there.
http://www.superbrace.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2211

Ive got the entire air ride setup off a goldwing and man that shaved like 50lbs off the bike since the mechanical shocks are lighter, the air pump being removed (it was an aspencade), and all the lines and blocks being taken off really cleaned up the bike.

1TallTXn
05-29-2011, 04:46 PM
Rear suspension is currently residing on the "I want" list, awaiting the completion of the "I need list"

The '83 has a fork brace on it. By the looks of the brace and how the forks are built, it looks to be OEM. The '82 I have has after-market fork brace on it. They're a very different setup. Maybe Honda realized they needed more support by the time the '83 rolled around.

I ain't expecting the old girl to handle like my VFR, or any other ST machine. Just want as decent of handeling as possible.
Longer rear shocks may be a good idea. I'll cross that bridge when its time.

Jack Giesecke
05-29-2011, 05:00 PM
Well, one thing about it, she's comfy for the long haul. The passenger was treated to extreme luxury and that is the main reason I bought her in the first place. After several years, my wife's health caused her to cease riding, but it was nice back there for her. The bike has it's positive points. I wasn't really worried a lot about handling either, but I know what you mean about getting it as right as possible. :lol2:

Monkey Wrench Cycles
05-29-2011, 05:11 PM
Rear suspension is currently residing on the "I want" list, awaiting the completion of the "I need list"

The '83 has a fork brace on it. By the looks of the brace and how the forks are built, it looks to be OEM. The '82 I have has after-market fork brace on it. They're a very different setup. Maybe Honda realized they needed more support by the time the '83 rolled around.

I ain't expecting the old girl to handle like my VFR, or any other ST machine. Just want as decent of handeling as possible.
Longer rear shocks may be a good idea. I'll cross that bridge when its time.

No big deal. Just offering some suggestions, NOT trying to talk you into a sale. Im not sure right offhand without looking at the book but if the 82 and 83 forks are the same size you may want to add that aftermarket fork brace onto the 83 since the stock brace isnt much to brag about in the rigidity department.

I just like to see someone fix up an old Wing and when i eventually come across one for the right price i plan on doing a stripped down, yet comfy and touring capable version for myself.

If you have any questions about anything feel free to PM me and ill help you as best i can.

1TallTXn
05-29-2011, 10:03 PM
No big deal. Just offering some suggestions, NOT trying to talk you into a sale. Im not sure right offhand without looking at the book but if the 82 and 83 forks are the same size you may want to add that aftermarket fork brace onto the 83 since the stock brace isnt much to brag about in the rigidity department.

I just like to see someone fix up an old Wing and when i eventually come across one for the right price i plan on doing a stripped down, yet comfy and touring capable version for myself.

If you have any questions about anything feel free to PM me and ill help you as best i can.
I didn't take it as a sale attempt. Thanks for the input :thumb:

The forks are the same. Internals and uppers anyway. The lower half is different due to the TRAC system, the different mounts for the LBS system, and the fork brace.
I'm not sure the '82 fork brace will go on due to its mounting location being right where Honda put theirs on the '83. Good thought and I may give it a shot, just to be sure.

1TallTXn
05-31-2011, 08:45 AM
Took some pics yesterday, but of course I neglected to put them on the computer so I can upload them :doh:

Got the carbs swapped. Cranked her over and discovered that the fuel line has a hole in it.
I have (I think) everything I need to put the dash back together. Hopefully I can get that done this evening.

1TallTXn
05-31-2011, 09:43 PM
Her current condition:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1/1talltxn/GL1100/267156b8.jpg

rear master cylinder came in today.
Got the R front caliper rebuilt, so now I've got to put the '83 lines back on and bleed the mess.

Thrasherg
05-31-2011, 11:03 PM
I like all the windows in your garage, must make it much easier to see what you are doing!!:lol2:

On a serious note the 1000, 1100 & 1200 goldwing electrics were NOT seriously over engineered, they are quite borderline so replacing as many lights with LED's is a really good idea. If you are going to run a 100Watt 2M ham Radio I think the electrics will still struggle no matter how many LED's you have put on, but if you go for 30 to 50 watts, I think you would have a great chance of success.. It's always good to see someone bring one of these old girls back to life.

Gary

1TallTXn
06-01-2011, 08:40 AM
It was a screened-in porch, now its a screened-in garage :deal:

The rig I'm eying for mounting on the bike is a 50w unit. Don't have any plans to run HF off the bike anytime soon.

The amount of transmit time is going to be quite small compared to receive time. I helped with a bicycle event a few weeks ago on the VFR and I spent maybe 30sec on transmit, and 6hrs on receive.
If its a problem, I'll add a second battery in the luggage to help with the radio draw.

Thrasherg
06-01-2011, 09:30 AM
If you are transmitting that little, you won't have any problems.. I tend to rag chew a bit and some vehicles struggle to keep up with the power needs but I tend to run below 10 metres.. (Not on my motorbike, I thought there would be too much electrical interference, but might try fitting a small 2M unit to the wing!!).

Gary

1TallTXn
06-01-2011, 10:12 AM
I tend to listen more than talk. Since the wife will be with me most of the time on the Wing, I doubt rag chewing will be much on the agenda.

I haven't decided what rig I want to put on the Wing yet. The FTM-10R is the obvious choice due to its weather resistance, but the FTM-350R/AR and D710 and the similar Icom (forget the model) units are quite tempting with their APRS-ready and dual-rx. But they don't like being outside in the weather.

I'll likely be building a custom interface for a comm system as I'm not quite happy with how the on-board comm works nor does an aftermarket one provide what I"m looking for. More custom building :trust:

Thrasherg
06-01-2011, 10:14 AM
It's always good to have projects!! :trust:

Gary

1TallTXn
06-01-2011, 10:16 AM
It's always good to have projects!! :trust:

Gary
I seem to have too many of those! :lol2:

1TallTXn
06-03-2011, 05:45 PM
Well, just when things were looking good, I find coolant on cylinder #1.
Here I thought it was the carbs draining down and hydro-locking it :doh:

oh well, such is life.

1TallTXn
06-03-2011, 08:22 PM
Was going to try some stop-leak in it, but found the #3 carb is pouring fuel out of the joint with the plenum. Lovely.

Jack Giesecke
06-04-2011, 04:27 PM
Head gasket? I blew one on the left size some time back, 4 or 5 years ago. Might check that head for warpage when you have it off. Not a tough job, really, but gotta pull the carbs, pipes, cam belt, cam.

1TallTXn
06-04-2011, 05:35 PM
The right front cylinder is the one with water on it. I think that's #1, but could be quite wrong. Forget the layout of those engines.

Doesn't look too complicated, its a flat-four afterall, just don't really want to have to deal with it.
I'll take the carbs off tomorrow and see about fixing that leak. Then we'll try the stop leak and go from there.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
06-04-2011, 05:53 PM
The right front cylinder is the one with water on it. I think that's #1, but could be quite wrong. Forget the layout of those engines.

Doesn't look too complicated, its a flat-four afterall, just don't really want to have to deal with it.
I'll take the carbs off tomorrow and see about fixing that leak. Then we'll try the stop leak and go from there.

Not to be a buzzkill but there is no way i would run that engine with a leaking head gasket with stop leak or otherwise. The cylinders are under pressure and you will do more damage to the engine if you try to run it like that. They can easily warp/crack a head from a blown head gasket. Its less than a couple hundred dollars in parts to rebuild the entire top end, even less if you dont put new rings in it.

Jack Giesecke
06-05-2011, 08:21 AM
I agree, stop leak won't fix a head gasket and it sounds like that's what it is. I WOULD check that head for warpage, too, when you get it off, sorta routine. I never overheated it, but age might do it.

1TallTXn
06-05-2011, 10:30 AM
The suggestion for the stop leak came from my dad. His background is auto repair. Been doing that for something like 35yrs.
He's built plenty of bikes in there as well. That's how he paid his way through college.

From my perspective, I don't think it would hurt the engine anymore to try this stop leak. Worst case, it won't help and I'll have to do the head gaskets anyway.
I could be wrong, so feel free to correct me if I am.

This particular stop leak dad has had very good luck with. Several cars with that were severly over-heated are still running now after using this stuff. Its not the traditional stuff that clogs the radiator.
http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/blue_magic/products/152/liquid_glass_metallic_seal_up/

Opinions?

Jack Giesecke
06-06-2011, 05:28 PM
Something I'm not quite getting here. For one, when I let it sit up, it was running fine, no leaks except that water pump oil seal you fixed. But, you fired it up and it ran fine? No miss, no white smoke or anything? Just wondering, 'cause if it's leaking at the head gasket that bad, it should be missing on that cylinder. Also, are you noticing the water level drop as it leaks? Is it leaking into the cylinder?

If it is a headgasket, I'm skeptical of stop leak, but if you can get it to hold without plugging up the radiator or something, okay. But, I wouldn't wanna be out in West Texas on I10 halfway to nowhere knowing I'm relying on stop leak. Just me, I guess. :lol2: The head is quite easy to pull, nothing, but the engine case guard in the way, don't even have to drop the motor out of it. I'm worryin' that if the gasket IS leaking, there might be some head warpage, too. I'd wanna check that, anyway.

1TallTXn
06-06-2011, 06:48 PM
It ran fine and I didn't notice any missing once I got her fired up.
I don't know where else the water would be coming from.
I know it didn't get hot while I was running it.
I'd be more than happy to hear it's just about anything but the headgasket!

1TallTXn
06-06-2011, 11:50 PM
Pulled the carbs and found I'd missed putting an o-ring between the right rear (#3?) Carb and the plenum. :doh: carb leak solved.
I'll fire her up tomorrow when I get home from work and see about the water on cyl #1. Nothing in there this evening, but radiator is only half full and only static pressure on it. We shall see :pray:

Jack Giesecke
06-07-2011, 08:57 AM
I'd be more than happy to hear it's just about anything but the headgasket!

Well, it COULD be a cracked head or something. :lol2: Unless it IS the carbs leaking into it, the head gasket is about the easiest/cheapest job I can think of that it might me. But, I blew the head gasket on the left side and it died on the cylinder it was leaking in, about 2 miles across down. I got it home no problems, but it was givin' white smoke all the way, water fouled the plug. Once the parts got here, the job didn't take much over an hour. Of course, I have air tools to take everything apart with. But, I always assemble with hand tools and, of course, it takes a bit longer to torque down head bolts and such with a torque wrench. I take my time and concentrate on the job. I learned to do that years ago. :trust::lol2: I cannot stand the pressure working in a bike shop being forced to get things done fast. That's how things get screwed up. Kudos to those that can handle that sort of work. Me, when I'm slow, I'm thorough. When I get in a hurry, well, I don't do that. :lol2:

1TallTXn
06-10-2011, 10:03 AM
After messing with it some more, at the very least the head gasket is blown. Getting oil in the water and vice versa :doh:

I'm heading out of town next week, so I'll order gaskets and all the other bits that need done while thats out when I get back.

1TallTXn
07-05-2011, 12:35 PM
Ordered parts for the head gasket change yesterday.

Jack Giesecke
07-09-2011, 02:58 PM
Have you pulled the head? It's really not that big a job on the Wings. Everything is just out there for you. Don't even need to pull carbs, just the manifolds.

1TallTXn
07-10-2011, 05:22 PM
I haven't got them off yet. Been working on the cage in what little spare time I have right now.
Need to get cranking on those heads though before I get started on the FILs GL1200 carbs

1TallTXn
09-18-2011, 10:59 AM
Well, I replaced the head gaskets, bolted it all back together, unstopped the idle jets in the carbs (again).
Just when I thought I was close to getting it on the road (again) It looks (sounds?) like I have either a rod or piston loose.

I'm going to go use my 9mm paper punch to blow off some steam :miffed:

Monkey Wrench Cycles
09-18-2011, 01:57 PM
Well, I replaced the head gaskets, bolted it all back together, unstopped the idle jets in the carbs (again).
Just when I thought I was close to getting it on the road (again) It looks (sounds?) like I have either a rod or piston loose.

I'm going to go use my 9mm paper punch to blow off some steam :miffed:

Was it making this sound prior to changing the head gaskets?

1TallTXn
09-18-2011, 02:02 PM
no, I am pretty sure it was not making the noise prior to the headgasket change.
I checked the cylinder walls while the heads were off and they looked good.
The knocking/tapping isn't there at idle, but even a slight increase in RPM and its there.
I've double checked to be sure the rocker arms aren't doing it and all is well in there.
the sound is very centralized in the engine.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
09-18-2011, 02:11 PM
no, I am pretty sure it was not making the noise prior to the headgasket change.
I checked the cylinder walls while the heads were off and they looked good.
The knocking/tapping isn't there at idle, but even a slight increase in RPM and its there.
I've double checked to be sure the rocker arms aren't doing it and all is well in there.
the sound is very centralized in the engine.

Is it getting oil? When you pull the valve covers off is there alot of oil in the top end? You could leave the covers off and start it briefly. You'll know right off the bat if your getting oil pressure...

Monkey Wrench Cycles
09-18-2011, 02:12 PM
Also a really bad exhaust leak at the head could sound almost like an engine knock

1TallTXn
09-18-2011, 08:11 PM
Oil pressure was first thought, its squirting oil with the valve covers off.
Double-check the valve clearances already.

I've got new exhaust gaskets/copper seal things in it, and I'm pretty sure I don't have an exhaust leak at the head, though its hard to tell as I crossover is leaking pretty good.
I'm 99% certain it's not an exhaust leak.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
09-18-2011, 08:42 PM
Oil pressure was first thought, its squirting oil with the valve covers off.
Double-check the valve clearances already.

I've got new exhaust gaskets/copper seal things in it, and I'm pretty sure I don't have an exhaust leak at the head, though its hard to tell as I crossover is leaking pretty good.
I'm 99% certain it's not an exhaust leak.

I'm just trying to think what could have changed when you did the head gaskets. I think your going to need to pull the timing belt covers and recheck valve timing. It's real easy to get it off when your putting the belts on.

1TallTXn
09-18-2011, 10:11 PM
I'm just trying to think what could have changed when you did the head gaskets. I think your going to need to pull the timing belt covers and recheck valve timing. It's real easy to get it off when your putting the belts on.
I've got the covers off and I checked the timing and I know the left bank is in time, I'll double check the right bank, but I'm 99.9% sure its in time as well.

Thanks for the suggestions/input :thumb:
PS, that doesn't mean "stop, I'm done" but simply a thanks in the middle of the discussion

Monkey Wrench Cycles
09-18-2011, 10:24 PM
I've got the covers off and I checked the timing and I know the left bank is in time, I'll double check the right bank, but I'm 99.9% sure its in time as well.

Thanks for the suggestions/input :thumb:
PS, that doesn't mean "stop, I'm done" but simply a thanks in the middle of the discussion

Recheck both cause they are easy to get out when putting the belts on. I know from experience which is why I triple check both sides when I replace the belts.

No problem. I'll keep racking my brain till we figure it out:thumb:

focus frenzy
09-19-2011, 11:43 AM
squeezing the clutch have any effect?

air box on? carb slide chatter?

1TallTXn
09-19-2011, 12:54 PM
squeezing the clutch have any effect?

air box on? carb slide chatter?
the neutral switch isn't working presently, so the clutch is zip-tied to the grip.

Air box is off

I hadn't thought of the carbs, its possible, though the slides fit in nicely, not loose. And its at constant throttle.

Jack Giesecke
09-19-2011, 02:28 PM
If it's still got the stock exhaust header on it, could be the crack in it is opened up a bit from torquing it back. It had a small crack in it where I ran over a culvert at the gun range that was slickin' up and cracked the left side exhaust. It wasn't too bad, but I was wanting a new exhaust on it.

Nothing was loose in the engine. In fact, I'm really surprised the head gasket was bad because the thing was running like a champ when I let it sit up and I figured only problem was the carbs got dirty. :ponder:

1TallTXn
09-19-2011, 02:31 PM
If it's still got the stock exhaust header on it, could be the crack in it is opened up a bit from torquing it back. It had a small crack in it where I ran over a culvert at the gun range that was slickin' up and cracked the left side exhaust. It wasn't too bad, but I was wanting a new exhaust on it.

Nothing was loose in the engine. In fact, I'm really surprised the head gasket was bad because the thing was running like a champ when I let it sit up and I figured only problem was the carbs got dirty. :ponder:
I swapped the exhaust from the '82 onto the '83 as it was in much better condition.

I too was surprised with the headgasket, and the rattle is surprising me as well. Everything sounded great (save the exhaust leak) prior to the head gasket change.

I'm hoping like Monkey Wrench suggested, that the timing is one notch off or a rocker arm is loose. :pray:

Monkey Wrench Cycles
09-19-2011, 07:00 PM
I swapped the exhaust from the '82 onto the '83 as it was in much better condition.

I too was surprised with the headgasket, and the rattle is surprising me as well. Everything sounded great (save the exhaust leak) prior to the head gasket change.

I'm hoping like Monkey Wrench suggested, that the timing is one notch off or a rocker arm is loose. :pray:

If your carbs are out of synch it can make a noise that sounds kinda like a knock. Also try putting your airbox on as these bikes make some intake noise that can deceive you.

Check the timing first though and report back.

1TallTXn
09-19-2011, 09:02 PM
If your carbs are out of synch it can make a noise that sounds kinda like a knock. Also try putting your airbox on as these bikes make some intake noise that can deceive you.

Check the timing first though and report back.
I had the carb sync tool on it and while they aren't perfectly in sync, they are very close.

This isn't an intake sound, that I'm certain of that.
Its possible its a carb sound, and the air box would suppress that some.

I'll slap that on next time I fire her up.

focus frenzy
09-20-2011, 02:04 AM
not a back and forth chatter, up and down. I have seen CV carbs flutter when the throttle was cracked when the velocity stacks and air box were not on. the slides make a rattle noise. when we put the rubber velocity stacks on it stopped doing it.

1TallTXn
09-20-2011, 07:27 AM
not a back and forth chatter, up and down. I have seen CV carbs flutter when the throttle was cracked when the velocity stacks and air box were not on. the slides make a rattle noise. when we put the rubber velocity stacks on it stopped doing it.
I would be thrilled to hear it was something as simple as that!

I'll try and mess with it a bit this evening. Have to work it in around the family plans

1TallTXn
09-21-2011, 01:42 PM
Got a couple minutes to look at it today.
Timing is spot on.
Slapped the airbox back on, and its still making the same clattery sound.

Any other thoughts/suggestions?

Monkey Wrench Cycles
09-21-2011, 02:19 PM
Got a couple minutes to look at it today.
Timing is spot on.
Slapped the airbox back on, and its still making the same clattery sound.

Any other thoughts/suggestions?

What all did you do while changing the head gaskets? You pulled the cylinders as well? New rings? Trying to get an idea of how far you went into the engine so i can try to backtrack what could be wrong. Also, how does it run?

1TallTXn
09-21-2011, 03:01 PM
What all did you do while changing the head gaskets? You pulled the cylinders as well? New rings? Trying to get an idea of how far you went into the engine so i can try to backtrack what could be wrong. Also, how does it run?
Left the jugs on. Head gaskets were as far as I went.
Timing belts were changed before and of course removed/reinstalled.

She's got a bit of a stutter (miss) at idle. Seems to be the right bank, but hard to tell for sure.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
09-21-2011, 03:52 PM
Left the jugs on. Head gaskets were as far as I went.
Timing belts were changed before and of course removed/reinstalled.

She's got a bit of a stutter (miss) at idle. Seems to be the right bank, but hard to tell for sure.

Do you have a compression gauge to measure compression? I would start with that and see what your compression is in all 4 cylinders.

1TallTXn
09-21-2011, 03:56 PM
Do you have a compression gauge to measure compression? I would start with that and see what your compression is in all 4 cylinders.
Not handy. I can probably get my hands on one this weekend.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
09-21-2011, 04:50 PM
Not handy. I can probably get my hands on one this weekend.

Let me know when you get those numbers and we'll go from there. Im assuming the cylinder walls looked good when you pulled the heads? No gouging or scoring?

1TallTXn
09-21-2011, 04:53 PM
Let me know when you get those numbers and we'll go from there. Im assuming the cylinder walls looked good when you pulled the heads? No gouging or scoring?
They all looked good. Checked them to see if I needed to replace the rings, but things looked good so I didn't bother.

I'll let you know once I get my hands on a compression gauge

DaveC
09-21-2011, 07:58 PM
New oil? was the old oil milk chocolate colored?

1TallTXn
09-22-2011, 10:07 AM
New oil? was the old oil milk chocolate colored?
Brand new oil.
Old oil was just slightly starting to get milky.
Current oil still looks brand new. As it should, its only been run for <20min

ed29
09-22-2011, 11:09 AM
Have you used the old "mechanic's stethoscope" (dowel rod or metal bar) to listen to specific spots on the engine to isolate the sound source? I am doubtful that it is a rod or crank bearing for two reasons. First, they were quiet before you did the gasket replacement and nothing you did would cause that to change. They just don't get loose sitting still. Second, being quiet at idle then making noise just off idle is the reverse of symptoms I have seen where rod or crank bearings were out of spec. In every case I have seen myself (admittedly few as I am not a pro mechanic) the bearing noise is louder at slower speeds and quiets as RPM increased.

I suggest listening with a probe all over that engine and nearby chassis parts. Something external might be loose and drumming in resonance to the engine. I have seen body panel bolts loose where the noise sounded like the cams were eating the followers for breakfast.

1TallTXn
09-22-2011, 11:24 AM
Have you used the old "mechanic's stethoscope" (dowel rod or metal bar) to listen to specific spots on the engine to isolate the sound source? I am doubtful that it is a rod or crank bearing for two reasons. First, they were quiet before you did the gasket replacement and nothing you did would cause that to change. They just don't get loose sitting still. Second, being quiet at idle then making noise just off idle is the reverse of symptoms I have seen where rod or crank bearings were out of spec. In every case I have seen myself (admittedly few as I am not a pro mechanic) the bearing noise is louder at slower speeds and quiets as RPM increased.

I suggest listening with a probe all over that engine and nearby chassis parts. Something external might be loose and drumming in resonance to the engine. I have seen body panel bolts loose where the noise sounded like the cams were eating the followers for breakfast.
There is a slight sound at idle, though very slight.

I've got some time tomorrow afternoon, hopefully I can narrow the noise down.
Just using my ears, it sounds very much like its in the center of the engine.
It seems too fast to be a rod/piston though. Lending the thought of the valve train, but I've checked that multiple times and still nothing appears off.

Jack Giesecke
09-23-2011, 07:24 PM
Only thing in the center of the engine that comes to mind is the oil pump drive, wanna say it's a chain in there behind the big cover. Been a while since I had it off.

Odd, very odd. The engine had a bit of piston slap, but you had to wind it up a bit to hear it. Just the miles on it, normal.

1TallTXn
09-25-2011, 12:01 PM
Got my hands on my wife's stethoscope ( :trust: ) and still can't pinpoint the sound.
Thankfully it doesn't sound like its the rod bearings, pretty quiet in that area.
The fuel pump/cam connection and the right valve train are pretty noisy, but not as bad as I would have thought for the general racket I'm hearing from the engine.

I recorded some audio of it, I'll have to get that uploaded for y'all to hear.

Posted up on the NGW forums as well.

1TallTXn
09-25-2011, 12:22 PM
To add to the fun, I'm not getting but one gear and either neutral or a false neutral.
Drops down into what seems to be first, lever feels like its at the bottom of the pattern, and up one notch into neutral. But nothing above that.
Gear indicator on the dash showed 3 at one point, now its just blank. Neutral light never comes on.

engaging and releasing the clutch, engine running or not, don't see to change this.

Oil is fresh <1hr run time, 0mi Castrol 4T 20w-40.

Jack Giesecke
09-26-2011, 11:16 AM
I'm not getting but one gear and either neutral or a false neutral.
Drops down into what seems to be first, lever feels like its at the bottom of the pattern, and up one notch into neutral. But nothing above that.

:eek2: That one's a first, too. I NEVER had a problem with the tranny. Wondering if something in there is messed up and rattling and how it coulda got that way. Did it lean against the shifter at any point in it's journey north? That can bend a shift fork. I did that on an RD400 once just leaning it against a milk crate in the pits at Oak Hill near Henderson. Came around the barn turn and it locket up and tossed me off. :doh: Lesson learned, WATCH THAT SHIFTER and be nice to it. :lol2:

Monkey Wrench Cycles
09-26-2011, 11:52 AM
Had an 87 GL1200 in here that the guy jammed the shifter and it was stuck in second. If you tried to shift down it would push down but wouldnt catch anything. If you tried to upshift it was rock solid and wouldnt move at all. I stuck a pry bar under it and pried up, it popped loose and shifts fine now.

1TallTXn
09-27-2011, 12:11 PM
Well, I officially feel like a doufus.
Dad came by yesterday evening, at my request, to look at the 'Wing.
After about 10min of working on it, he determined that the #1 carb's throttle adjustment was far above the other three.
Adjusted that, dried out the plugs on the right side, and now she's running nicely.

The fact that I missed a near-dead miss on 2/4 cylinders is embarrassing :doh: but I'm happy to have it working!
Going to adjust the valves again this evening, then I'll take it out under its own power for a bit. :pray:

Thanks for everyone's input and suggestions!

Thrasherg
09-27-2011, 02:27 PM
It's great that you now have the engine running smoothly, but I can't see what that has to do with all the lost gears? Have they magically come back? or do you still have a problem selecting different gears?

Regards Gary

1TallTXn
09-27-2011, 02:41 PM
I asked dad about that and he said don't worry about it right now. His thought was that the lack of power from the right bank was generally messing with the whole engine/transmission. He thinks once everything is balanced out and running right, it will be fine.

I'll update with more info once I get it moving under its own power.

DaveC
09-27-2011, 10:14 PM
So are you going to remake it like this? (http://www.amdchampionship.com/bikes/2562-blacksmith-motoring-co-el-vaquero.html)
http://dealer-world.co.uk/champs-bikes/2011world/2011world-050-a-l.jpg

1TallTXn
09-28-2011, 09:01 AM
So are you going to remake it like this? (http://www.amdchampionship.com/bikes/2562-blacksmith-motoring-co-el-vaquero.html)
http://dealer-world.co.uk/champs-bikes/2011world/2011world-050-a-l.jpg
Uuh, no. :eek:

Jack Giesecke
09-28-2011, 10:14 AM
Mmm, well, yeah, it don't run too good on one cylinder. :lol2: That accounts for why it'd idle and go funky right off idle, though. Had me wonderin'.

The tranny will likely shift into neutral and work just fine once you get her running and spinning things. She don't shift too good just sitting there even rolling her a bit.

1TallTXn
09-28-2011, 10:58 AM
I think she was actually running on two cylinders. #2 & #4 seemed to be working fine.
I was surprised that she would run on 1/2 of its cylinders.

I figured the general strain of only running of 1/2 power and #1 kicking back would be enough to make the tranny not behave right.
I'll get back to it maybe tomorrow, hoping to get it moving before the weekend.

Gilk51
09-28-2011, 01:41 PM
Dad came by yesterday evening, at my request, to look at the 'Wing.
After about 10min of working on it, he determined that the #1 carb's throttle adjustment was far above the other three.

Good ole Dad! :zen:


(for me - it's the reverse - my older son helps me with the hard problems)

1TallTXn
09-28-2011, 01:43 PM
Good ole Dad! :zen:


(for me - it's the reverse - my older son helps me with the hard problems)
Yup! I've got a good one!

I help the folks with computer-related things and can typically hold my own with mechanical issues, but this one stumped me. :oops:

1TallTXn
10-03-2011, 09:44 AM
Officially got the bike out and put ~60mi on her Friday afternoon/evening.

Of course I found a few quibbles that need addressed, but she runs good.

Front brake master cylinder needs a new crush washer, its seeping. She actually brakes quite well. I wasn't expecting the responsive brakes. Incidentally, it brakes better than my FILs GL1200.

She's using oil. 2.5qts in that 60mi. Going to dump some Rislone (sp?) in there this evening and see if that helps it. Not overly worried as it's been sitting for at least 2yrs.

Gear indicator doesn't read till I get into 3rd, then it displays 1. This isn't an issue at all, but I need to adjust something so the Neutral light works, so maybe this will resolve itself as well.

The transmission works just fine, though I have to remember its a much longer throw than the VFR. Especially the 1-2 shift. :giveup:

Rear suspension is going to need upgraded. Seems to be holding air fine, but feels out of place compared to the RaceTech-upgraded front. That'll get moved from the eventually-upgrade list to the needs-upgraded list.

Gotta learn the bikes power curve, but that's new with every bike.

Overall, I'm quite pleased, and the wife loves the seating position.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
10-03-2011, 09:53 AM
Officially got the bike out and put ~60mi on her Friday afternoon/evening.

Of course I found a few quibbles that need addressed, but she runs good.

Front brake master cylinder needs a new crush washer, its seeping. She actually brakes quite well. I wasn't expecting the responsive brakes. Incidentally, it brakes better than my FILs GL1200.

She's using oil. 2.5qts in that 60mi. Going to dump some Rislone (sp?) in there this evening and see if that helps it. Not overly worried as it's been sitting for at least 2yrs.

Gear indicator doesn't read till I get into 3rd, then it displays 1. This isn't an issue at all, but I need to adjust something so the Neutral light works, so maybe this will resolve itself as well.

The transmission works just fine, though I have to remember its a much longer throw than the VFR. Especially the 1-2 shift. :giveup:

Rear suspension is going to need upgraded. Seems to be holding air fine, but feels out of place compared to the RaceTech-upgraded front. That'll get moved from the eventually-upgrade list to the needs-upgraded list.

Gotta learn the bikes power curve, but that's new with every bike.

Overall, I'm quite pleased, and the wife loves the seating position.

If you ride by the shop ive got boxes of crush washers ill throw you a couple.

When you pulled the cylinders off to put base gaskets how did you orient the rings upon reinstall? The gaps in the rings need staggered or it will burn oil forever or until its fixed. Im also not a big fan of installing old rings in a cylinder once its been pulled off as i dont think they ever seat and seal right again.

There should be a sensor that reads neutral and gears. Maybe bad, maybe is installed wrong?

They make non air shocks for goldwings. Saber cycle sells some. For a ride to match the RaceTech front suspension they also sell air AND non air shocks from progressive as well as Progressive shock springs($60.00) and dampeners($190) for the stock air shocks for GL1100's and GL1200's (seems like ive mentioned this before so forgive me im reposting this info). I think i have a good set of shocks off a GL1200 also. I believe they are better shocks but may be 1" longer than the 1100 shocks if i remember right.

I bet it feels good after all that work to be able to get on it and ride.:flip:

1TallTXn
10-03-2011, 09:59 AM
If you ride by the shop ive got boxes of crush washers ill throw you a couple.

When you pulled the cylinders off to put base gaskets how did you orient the rings upon reinstall? The gaps in the rings need staggered or it will burn oil forever or until its fixed. Im also not a big fan of installing old rings in a cylinder once its been pulled off as i dont think they ever seat and seal right again.

There should be a sensor that reads neutral and gears. Maybe bad, maybe is installed wrong?

They make non air shocks for goldwings. Saber cycle sells some. For a ride to match the RaceTech front suspension they also sell air AND non air shocks from progressive as well as Progressive shock springs($60.00) and dampeners($190) for the stock air shocks for GL1100's and GL1200's (seems like ive mentioned this before so forgive me im reposting this info). I think i have a good set of shocks off a GL1200 also. I believe they are better shocks but may be 1" longer than the 1100 shocks if i remember right.

I bet it feels good after all that work to be able to get on it and ride.:flip:
I figured there's a sensor somewhere, just gotta find/adjust it.

I've seen the Progressives and I also saw that WP makes a nice shocks for ~$150/side. Generally not a fan of the progressively-wound springs. I know loads of people rave about them, but the idea strikes me as funny.

Too bad somebody won't make me a nice deal about a shock for the VFR as well as a pair for the Wing :deal:

Somebody (may have been you) mentioned that the GL1200 rear shocks use the same type of mount points, but are ~1" longer than the GL1100s for a little extra ground clearance. And a steeper rake angle.

The tip-in and cornering are going to take some getting used to. First impressions are that I have more clearance than expected. Certainly more than the FILs Gl1200, but he's got after-market boards on his too.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
10-03-2011, 10:15 AM
I figured there's a sensor somewhere, just gotta find/adjust it.

I've seen the Progressives and I also saw that WP makes a nice shocks for ~$150/side. Generally not a fan of the progressively-wound springs. I know loads of people rave about them, but the idea strikes me as funny.

Too bad somebody won't make me a nice deal about a shock for the VFR as well as a pair for the Wing :deal:

Somebody (may have been you) mentioned that the GL1200 rear shocks use the same type of mount points, but are ~1" longer than the GL1100s for a little extra ground clearance. And a steeper rake angle.

The tip-in and cornering are going to take some getting used to. First impressions are that I have more clearance than expected. Certainly more than the FILs Gl1200, but he's got after-market boards on his too.

Progressively wound springs are nothing new and the idea is that its soft in full length, then as it compresses it gets stiffer. The more it compresses the stiffer it gets. These types of springs, in shocks as well as forks, are one of the reasons suspension is so much better than it was way back in the day.

Yes, a GL1200 shock will interchange with a GL1100 shock. They are exactly the same mounting style with the only differences being they are 1" longer and (so ive heard) the 1200 shocks are better.

If you want the best cornering and shocking the best route would be a set of progressive air or non air shocks(they make both) as they are overall a better shock than the factory ever put out. 2011 technology VS. 80's technology. That would be the more pricey option though.

1TallTXn
10-03-2011, 10:21 AM
Progressively wound springs are nothing new and the idea is that its soft in full length, then as it compresses it gets stiffer. The more it compresses the stiffer it gets. These types of springs, in shocks as well as forks, are one of the reasons suspension is so much better than it was way back in the day.

Yes, a GL1200 shock will interchange with a GL1100 shock. They are exactly the same mounting style with the only differences being they are 1" longer and (so ive heard) the 1200 shocks are better.

If you want the best cornering and shocking the best route would be a set of progressive air or non air shocks(they make both) as they are overall a better shock than the factory ever put out. 2011 technology VS. 80's technology. That would be the more pricey option though.
I understand the concept, and the OEM springs in both my FILs GL1200 and my GL1100 had two springs in each fork one soft, one firm to create something similar to progressively-wound springs.
My thought, and this is less of an issue on a rear than in the front, is that they could bind due to the difference in spring rates from top to bottom. Rears are external vs internal springs, so I don't think that would be an issue.

The Wing has always been intended for two-up trips with the wife. So it'll be loaded most of the time, thus negating the soft spring rates at the top of the spring. At least that's my thought.
I'm sure the bike will get drafted into commuting duty more than it'll be touring, so the light rates would be nice then.

The stock stuff in my VFR would have made a huge difference in the GL, and putting new springs and valves in it made a world of difference!

Monkey Wrench Cycles
10-03-2011, 10:41 AM
I understand the concept, and the OEM springs in both my FILs GL1200 and my GL1100 had two springs in each fork one soft, one firm to create something similar to progressively-wound springs.
My thought, and this is less of an issue on a rear than in the front, is that they could bind due to the difference in spring rates from top to bottom. Rears are external vs internal springs, so I don't think that would be an issue.

The Wing has always been intended for two-up trips with the wife. So it'll be loaded most of the time, thus negating the soft spring rates at the top of the spring. At least that's my thought.
I'm sure the bike will get drafted into commuting duty more than it'll be touring, so the light rates would be nice then.

The stock stuff in my VFR would have made a huge difference in the GL, and putting new springs and valves in it made a world of difference!

I understand where your coming from but think of it like a lifted 4x4 pickup. They are stiff at the end of suspension travel same as compressed and its a HARD ride. When your riding two up on a GL you still want it softer at the top of suspension travel or it will be a really uncomfortable when you hit a bump or go over a dip in the street. It needs a soft/plush ride during normal riding or it wouldnt be comfortable for long trips. Thats the beauty of a progressive spring is that you can have a soft ride until you get towards the end of suspension travel, ie hit a pothole, then it gets stiffer so you dont bottom out the suspension. The reason they are air shocks is so that you can tune them for heavier or lighter loads.

1TallTXn
10-03-2011, 11:19 AM
I understand where your coming from but think of it like a lifted 4x4 pickup. They are stiff at the end of suspension travel same as compressed and its a HARD ride. When your riding two up on a GL you still want it softer at the top of suspension travel or it will be a really uncomfortable when you hit a bump or go over a dip in the street. It needs a soft/plush ride during normal riding or it wouldnt be comfortable for long trips. Thats the beauty of a progressive spring is that you can have a soft ride until you get towards the end of suspension travel, ie hit a pothole, then it gets stiffer so you dont bottom out the suspension. The reason they are air shocks is so that you can tune them for heavier or lighter loads.
I'll certainly keep those in mind when the wallet gets fat enough to purchase. :thumb:

Monkey Wrench Cycles
10-03-2011, 11:23 AM
I'll certainly keep those in mind when the wallet gets fat enough to purchase. :thumb:

Dont take it as me trying to sell you something. Im just explaining the benefits of a progressive style spring:thumb:

1TallTXn
10-03-2011, 11:25 AM
Dont take it as me trying to sell you something. Im just explaining the benefits of a progressive style spring:thumb:
Didn't at all!
I'm basically avoiding doing serious research at the moment or else I'll want to spend money I don't have :lol2:

I've got a CBR929 shock sitting at home for the VFR that is on hold due ot lack of funds as well.
Why do cages have to break all the time? :argh:

Thrasherg
10-03-2011, 11:26 AM
Dont take it as me trying to sell you something. Im just explaining the benefits of a progressive style spring:thumb:

Your not going to stay in business for long with this fair attitude!! :lol2:

Gary

Monkey Wrench Cycles
10-03-2011, 12:05 PM
Your not going to stay in business for long with this fair attitude!! :lol2:

Gary

Haha. I like to let my work and prices speak for themselves. Now if he had said "i want this shock" i would have tried to sell it to him... ;)

Monkey Wrench Cycles
10-03-2011, 12:06 PM
Didn't at all!
I'm basically avoiding doing serious research at the moment or else I'll want to spend money I don't have :lol2:

I've got a CBR929 shock sitting at home for the VFR that is on hold due ot lack of funds as well.
Why do cages have to break all the time? :argh:

I know how that goes. I NEVER have spare income to finish any of my own projects. I am pushing hard to finish my buell blast and am in the middle of trying to sell off some used parts and other projects to fund it :thumb:

1TallTXn
10-03-2011, 01:45 PM
I know how that goes. I NEVER have spare income to finish any of my own projects. I am pushing hard to finish my buell blast and am in the middle of trying to sell off some used parts and other projects to fund it :thumb:
Actually, that reminds me of another question I had for you. Where did you get the turbo for your project?
I jokingly mentioned to my wife that I wanted to twin-turbo the GL to close the gap of "missing" HP when compared to the VFR, and she surprised me by thinking it was a good idea! :eek:

Randakk has put a supercharger on a GL1000 but isn't selling the kits, and I think a turbo would be easier to rig up.

Completely in the theoretical stage at this point.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
10-03-2011, 01:49 PM
Actually, that reminds me of another question I had for you. Where did you get the turbo for your project?
I jokingly mentioned to my wife that I wanted to twin-turbo the GL to close the gap of "missing" HP when compared to the VFR, and she surprised me by thinking it was a good idea! :eek:

Randakk has put a supercharger on a GL1000 but isn't selling the kits, and I think a turbo would be easier to rig up.

Completely in the theoretical stage at this point.

I sourced my turbo (a Garrett T-3) from a Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe. It was worn out of course and i had it rebuilt and a custom impeller put in it.

There are many choices of turbos out there and if your serious about it i can help you with choosing one. Ebay has lots of namebrand turbos for sale(dont get a cheap ebay turbo please!) for decent prices.

Supercharging and turboing goldwings is pretty common. Ive seen quite a few done so most of the hard stuff is already worked out.

1TallTXn
10-03-2011, 02:01 PM
I sourced my turbo (a Garrett T-3) from a Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe. It was worn out of course and i had it rebuilt and a custom impeller put in it.

There are many choices of turbos out there and if your serious about it i can help you with choosing one. Ebay has lots of namebrand turbos for sale(dont get a cheap ebay turbo please!) for decent prices.

Supercharging and turboing goldwings is pretty common. Ive seen quite a few done so most of the hard stuff is already worked out.
I guess the only real question then (besides funding) is whether to put the CBX Turbo graphics on the side or not :lol2:

Monkey Wrench Cycles
10-03-2011, 02:29 PM
I guess the only real question then (besides funding) is whether to put the CBX Turbo graphics on the side or not :lol2:

Yes, but instead of CBX put GLX TURBO :thumb:

1TallTXn
10-03-2011, 02:35 PM
Yes, but instead of CBX put GLX TURBO :thumb:
Just so long as it has the gaudy 80's style to it :trust:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8M1koT4DFSA/TjGV-Z7ha9I/AAAAAAAAFKg/cYzm_3KGkZM/s640/cx500-turbo_right_mpotd.jpg
(yes, its a CX, not a CBX)

Monkey Wrench Cycles
10-03-2011, 02:42 PM
Just so long as it has the gaudy 80's style to it :trust:
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8M1koT4DFSA/TjGV-Z7ha9I/AAAAAAAAFKg/cYzm_3KGkZM/s640/cx500-turbo_right_mpotd.jpg
(yes, its a CX, not a CBX)

And has "TURBO" all over the bike in the biggest letters to ever grace a bike?? :rofl:;)

1TallTXn
10-24-2011, 04:12 PM
So the boss wants new shocks.

Who all makes them for the GL1100?

I believe I can bolt on shocks for the GL1200 and gain a bit of clearance, right?

I thought WP made some for the OldWings, but it doesn't look like they do.
RaceTech doesn't list anything, but I may call them and see if they have anything.

I know Progressive makes some.

Frank, what do you recommend, and can you get them for me?

Thanks

1TallTXn
10-25-2011, 12:51 PM
Called RaceTech about a custom shock (they don't have any that will bolt on). Turns out that's painful for my wallet!
$799 for the base, rebound-only and $1499 for the piggy-back resivor with all the adjustments. :eek:

Jack Giesecke
10-26-2011, 06:01 AM
Progressive made a set some years ago I was lookin' at, air shock replacements IIRC.

1TallTXn
12-01-2011, 03:10 PM
Looks like budget constraints are going to put me with rebuilt GL1200 shocks.
We'll see how those do before plotting to replace them with Progressives later.

She was running rich, so I pulled the carbs out and worked the float needles and seats over with some fine metal polish and how it's not running rich.

Throttle "pull" cable snapped the other day, so I swapped the nearly new cables from my '82 in, and what do you know, the throttle operation is much smoother now.

In my quest for warm hands, I found that I didn't have enough spare amperage on the stator to add heated grips, so I replaced all six run/brake/turn bulbs with LEDs and saved myself about 9amps. Now I just need to order/install heated grips.

Click Here (http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66643) for the specifics on that LED upgrade.

bigjnsa
12-01-2011, 03:19 PM
Nathan, you can get Road King air shocks off eBay for about $50 and they are virtually the same size (length). I'm not sure if it will bolt up but its worth a look.

1TallTXn
12-02-2011, 11:29 AM
Nathan, you can get Road King air shocks off eBay for about $50 and they are virtually the same size (length). I'm not sure if it will bolt up but its worth a look.
Frank's hooking me up with a use pair of GL1200 shocks and new Progressive springs. I'll need to get some seals for them, but shouldn't be a big deal.

1TallTXn
02-01-2012, 10:41 AM
Frank hooked me up with a nice set of GL1200 shocks and Progressive springs.

I've gotten them mostly apart around repainting the kitchen and various other projects.

The Wing decided to leave a puddle of anti-freeze in the parking lot a few weeks ago and I finally tracked the leak down to the radiator cap.
Replaced that, and I think it's stopped leaking :pray:

Scored a Starcom1 comm system off of Craigslist for dirt cheap and got that wired into the bike last night.
That'll be the basis for a system I'll be building to replace the factory one.
Why? well, I'm a geek and I like soldering, and I'm wanting things that won't work on the OEM system, so I'm going to build my own.

Still toying with the idea of replacing the dash with a custom-built digital one, but I think that may be more work than it's worth.
That and a turbo setup :drool:

Monkey Wrench Cycles
02-01-2012, 01:24 PM
Frank hooked me up with a nice set of GL1200 shocks and Progressive springs.

I've gotten them mostly apart around repainting the kitchen and various other projects.

The Wing decided to leave a puddle of anti-freeze in the parking lot a few weeks ago and I finally tracked the leak down to the radiator cap.
Replaced that, and I think it's stopped leaking :pray:

Scored a Starcom1 comm system off of Craigslist for dirt cheap and got that wired into the bike last night.
That'll be the basis for a system I'll be building to replace the factory one.
Why? well, I'm a geek and I like soldering, and I'm wanting things that won't work on the OEM system, so I'm going to build my own.

Still toying with the idea of replacing the dash with a custom-built digital one, but I think that may be more work than it's worth.
That and a turbo setup :drool:

Thats what im waiting for!! :dude:

1TallTXn
02-05-2012, 03:14 PM
Got the GL1200 shocks rebuilt. Only shot one across the porch :lol2: :duck:

Got them installed on the bike this morning. Need to take her out for a spin and see how it works.
That'll have to wait for tomorrow though.

1TallTXn
02-07-2012, 02:01 PM
She wouldn't start yesterday, but she did this morning :rider:

I'm going to have to lengthen the side stand as the new shocks make it quite a bit taller.
I am surprised how much difference it made in height.
I have long legs, so it's not an issue.

Rides much better with new suspenders :rider:

thencamedonson
02-07-2012, 02:03 PM
You only shot one shock across the porch? Quitter! :lol2:

1TallTXn
02-07-2012, 02:09 PM
You only shot one shock across the porch? Quitter! :lol2:
lets just say I *think* I shot one across the porch. It was in my hands one second, and then there were pieces and oil all over the place the next. :eek2: :giveup:

The tool I built to compress the shocks failed on me :duck:

thencamedonson
02-07-2012, 02:12 PM
lets just say I *think* I shot one across the porch. It was in my hands one second, and then there were pieces and oil all over the place the next. :eek2: :giveup:

The tool I built to compress the shocks failed on me :duck:

Been there, done that, almost knocked My teeth out, LOL.:rider:

1TallTXn
02-14-2012, 04:57 PM
I'm having to relax. Didn't realize I braced so much for rough spots in the road till the new shocks showed me. :lol2:
Gotta love new/upgraded parts!

Now I need the change to upgrade the VFRs shock.

1TallTXn
02-14-2012, 07:39 PM
I just thought I was in business.
Right shock decided to leak pretty good on the trip home. No sure what caused it.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
02-14-2012, 07:47 PM
I just thought I was in business.
Right shock decided to leak pretty good on the trip home. No sure what caused it.

Did you replace the seals when you put the springs on? If you go way overboard on air pressure it can blow a seal...

Your supposed to air them up with a hand pump or onboard air system which I think you don't have on your bike? Anyways the air pump I have has a gauge that goes from 0-30 psi. You aren't supposed to air up with a compressor...

1TallTXn
02-14-2012, 08:05 PM
New seals, allotted 10.5oz of fresh oil.
I do have the onboard air system.
Shocks were aired up to only bottom of the onboard gauge. Something around 28psi if I remember correctly.
Held fine for about 150mi before it let go.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
02-14-2012, 08:12 PM
New seals, allotted 10.5oz of fresh oil.
I do have the onboard air system.
Shocks were aired up to only bottom of the onboard gauge. Something around 28psi if I remember correctly.
Held fine for about 150mi before it let go.

Hmmm. Weird. Did you lube the lips of the seals so they weren't riding dry on the rod?

1TallTXn
02-14-2012, 08:15 PM
Yup. Same oil as went in the shock.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
02-14-2012, 08:38 PM
Yup. Same oil as went in the shock.

And it's leaking from said seal correct?

I'm trying to brainstorm as to why it started leaking.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
02-14-2012, 08:42 PM
Did you check the bushing in there? It's number 8 on the diagram. Any wear/play in that and the seal will leak.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1987-honda-gl1200a-gold-wing-aspencade/o/m2344#sch24040

1TallTXn
02-14-2012, 08:42 PM
I haven't pulled the boot off too look at it. It's coming from behind the boot, so I can't see where else it would be coming from.

1TallTXn
02-19-2012, 03:59 PM
Pulled the boot down this afternoon. I don't see anything wrong in there. A tiny bit of slack between the circlip and the spacer below the seal. Other than that, it looks good.

Any thoughts?

1TallTXn
02-20-2012, 08:52 AM
Cleaned it all up yesterday evening in hopes that I'd just over filled it and it was just over flowing.
Well, there's a large puddle on the floor under the shock this morning, so it looks like I get to take the shock back off and see whats up.

1TallTXn
02-20-2012, 05:29 PM
Got the shock off and apart. Thanks Mother Honda for bolting the all the luggage racks to the shock :doh:

There's some VERY small nicks in the inner edge of the seal. Not sure that would cause the leak, but integrity otherwise seems good.
Took about 25min under 60PSI to pop the seal out. Seems like it was holding to me.
I'll track down another seal and make sure that the inner shaft is flawless when I go back together with it.

Sadly, the delay on parts will keep it down for a good week. And in this weather too! :argh:

1TallTXn
03-13-2012, 01:40 PM
Seal finally came in last Thursday.
Sunday I polished the shock tube up real good and put it back together.

So far, I've got ~60mi on it with no issues. :pray:

Now, about that hole in the muffler...

1TallTXn
03-15-2012, 09:12 AM
Shocks leaking again.

No clue what's wrong with it this time. :miffed:

Monkey Wrench Cycles
03-15-2012, 04:52 PM
Shocks leaking again.

No clue what's wrong with it this time. :miffed:

I feel bad man. I didnt intentionally sell you bad shocks:shrug:

1TallTXn
03-15-2012, 04:57 PM
I feel bad man. I didnt intentionally sell you bad shocks:shrug:
Oh, I don't fault you in the slightest!

There was no visible leakage on them when I got them from you.

I've no clue what's causing this.

May see if I can track down another OEM shock and see if that fixes it.

Monkey Wrench Cycles
06-16-2012, 01:13 PM
Any luck on this? I actually had a friend with the same problem. He put half oil, half power steering stop leak in his and it stopped leaking. He had new seals as well and it still leaked till he did that.

1TallTXn
06-16-2012, 07:59 PM
I haven't messed with that bike in over a month.
Been working in other bikes and generally staying too busy.

That's a good idea. I'll have to try that when I get some time.

1TallTXn
09-04-2012, 11:08 AM
GL1200 decided to spit oil into the water and the 4Runner had a love affair with an Accord, so the GL1100 is back to the top of the stack. (VFR has parts ordered, but it's 2-3 weeks from complete)

I'll be swinging by a parts place on the way home today and get some power steering stop leak.

Any thoughts on fork oil (10 or 15wt) vs ATF in the shocks?

Monkey Wrench Cycles
09-04-2012, 11:16 AM
GL1200 decided to spit oil into the water and the 4Runner had a love affair with an Accord, so the GL1100 is back to the top of the stack. (VFR has parts ordered, but it's 2-3 weeks from complete)

I'll be swinging by a parts place on the way home today and get some power steering stop leak.

Any thoughts on fork oil (10 or 15wt) vs ATF in the shocks?

Dont think it matters. the stop leak is like sludge so anything else you put in there will mix with it.

1TallTXn
09-04-2012, 11:43 AM
Dont think it matters. the stop leak is like sludge so anything else you put in there will mix with it.
Already have fork oil at home and in the other shock, so I think that's what I'll go with. Rode really well the few miles I was able to put on it before that shock chucked it's oil.

Gilk51
09-04-2012, 05:05 PM
shock chucked it's oil.

Hey! Let's watch the language, OK? ;-)

1TallTXn
09-04-2012, 05:06 PM
Hey! Let's watch the language, OK? ;-)
My bad, was going for the Shock value :trust:

DaveC
09-04-2012, 09:36 PM
for my 8001st post, I would stay with the 30W that comes in the forks, use a synthetic, but any oil lighter than 30W well be to soft and bouncy. If you want them stiffer add a spacer (sockets work good)

1TallTXn
09-04-2012, 10:04 PM
for my 8001st post, I would stay with the 30W that comes in the forks, use a synthetic, but any oil lighter than 30W well be to soft and bouncy. If you want them stiffer add a spacer (sockets work good)

Front forks are fine they've got less than 1000mi on a full Racetech rebuild.

I'm having issues keeping the oil in the freshly rebuilt rear shocks.
Went with 15w fork oil and Lucas power steering stop leak in a 50/50 mix.

DaveC
09-05-2012, 01:33 PM
Both rears leak after a rebuild? :ponder: new seals? either there was a burr or the seals are the wrong size.

1TallTXn
09-05-2012, 01:37 PM
Both rears leak after a rebuild? :ponder: new seals? either there was a burr or the seals are the wrong size.
Right Rear is leaking. Left Rear is behaving properly.

Replaced the seal, and fixed a small burr on the lower part of the shock. Still leaked.

Shot the stuff in the shock last night, and it was holding this morning. Problem is, it did that before. I need to take it for a ride to see if it'll hold. :pray:

Rode the FIL's GL1500A today. The power is addictive :flip:

1TallTXn
09-11-2012, 12:20 PM
Well, the stop-leak fix didn't do it.

Held just fine till I pumped the shock up with the on-board compressor. Started leaking over night.

I'll have to find another shock for that side. Something is definitely screwy on that one.