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Torque wrench options

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sKatZ

sKatZ

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I'm taking the torque wrench plunge pretty soon and would like advice/input/suggestions on the features and specs you find most useful. For me, this is likely going to be the only one I ever buy. Can't say the same about my bike, though ;-)

So the most universal bang for the buck is what I'm after. I've decided to chuck all my knowledge, pre-conceived notions and "gee that seems like a good idea!" tendencies and let the fine minds of TWT provide guidance.

Ultimately, I'll do something stupid but at least you know you tried. :lol2:
 
Yup! More confused than ever! Maybe I'll go over it a few more times :thumb:

--sent from a ridiculously complicated mobile device--
 
Please define what you will use it for, what are the tq specs you need to be able to measure?

It takes 6 different tq devices in my roll away to do common motorcycle to passenger car/ truck applications. This is spokes, to suspension valving, axle nuts, head bolts, lug nuts to main bolts on a V8 diesel motor.

What fasteners do you want to torque to a specific spec, and what are those specs?
 
I am looking for a wrench (or wrenches) that would cover basic stem to stern maintenance and generalized farkling. I tried to check through the service manual and see ranges from 4 Nm to 88 Nm.

If I understand, this is too broad a range for a single wrench. Beyond that, I'm lost. There's no way of knowing what I'll be doing but I'll be starting small - oil changes, for example.
 
If you don't mind dopping some coin, I LOVE my recently purchase Snap-on electric 3/8 drive wrench. It goes a low as 5 or 6 ft lbs, and you can also select between Inch lbs, Ft lbs and NM [IIRC newton meters - metric version of torque], which is helpful as it seems all my service manuals list NM

I only paid $80 for mine in like new condition from a former co-worker hard up, but on the truck I think they cost about $350 or something
 
poser said:
If you don't mind dopping some coin, I LOVE my recently purchase Snap-on electric 3/8 drive wrench. It goes a low as 5 or 6 ft lbs, and you can also select between Inch lbs, Ft lbs and NM [IIRC newton meters - metric version of torque], which is helpful as it seems all my service manuals list NM
Click to expand...
poser said:

I only paid $80 for mine in like new condition from a former co-worker hard up, but on the truck I think they cost about $350 or something
Click to expand...


Good score, thats a $260 or so $$ wrench.

Have it calibrated though.. One wrong use (over TQ) and it is junk, cannot be calibrated. I have seen more than one tech cry when the snapon guy came back with a new(ish) wrench tagged as junk due to improper use.

Keep in mind, that TQ wrench is not considered accurate at the bottom 20% of the scale.

All TQ wrenches have a similar spec.

It’s say something like; “Accuracy: Within ±4% of any clockwise setting from 20% of full scale to full scale”
And may include a counterclockwise spec as well.
 
Last edited:
poser said:
If you don't mind dopping some coin, I LOVE my recently purchase Snap-on electric 3/8 drive wrench. It goes a low as 5 or 6 ft lbs, and you can also select between Inch lbs, Ft lbs and NM [IIRC newton meters - metric version of torque], which is helpful as it seems all my service manuals list NM

I only paid $80 for mine in like new condition from a former co-worker hard up, but on the truck I think they cost about $350 or something
Click to expand...

Sounds like you got a rocking deal on a great tool! My manual seems to list all three but Nm is first choice. Sometimes I wish I was bilingual - fluent in metric and English. ;-)

bronco78 said:
Keep in mind, that TQ wrench is not considered accurate at the bottom 20% of the scale.

All TQ wrenches have a similar spec.

It’s say something like; “Accuracy: Within ±4% of any clockwise setting from 20% of full scale to full scale”
And may include a counterclockwise spec as well.
Click to expand...

So my assumption that more than one wrench is best is a good one. Thanks, bronco! Now the question is which one(s)... I'm going to have to look through my manual thoroughly and figure out which jobs are most likely to be mine. Then it seems like a good first wrench would have a solid range for those jobs well before getting to that 20% lower limit.
 
sKatZ said:
Sounds like you got a rocking deal on a great tool! My manual seems to list all three but Nm is first choice. Sometimes I wish I was bilingual - fluent in metric and English. ;-)



So my assumption that more than one wrench is best is a good one. Thanks, bronco! Now the question is which one(s)... I'm going to have to look through my manual thoroughly and figure out which jobs are most likely to be mine. Then it seems like a good first wrench would have a solid range for those jobs well before getting to that 20% lower limit.
Click to expand...

Yes sorry meant to answer this sooner but got busy at work....

for the range you posted, your going to need two..
But need three really.. 4 Nm = 3ftlb = 36 inlb... to get a TQ wrench that will do 36 INLB, your talking $250 or more, and it will top out at about 50 inlb.. It is a tool you will rarely use, is easily damaged, and pricey. Most times a calibrated set of fingers and a 1/4" drive ratchet will get you by along with some anaerobic thread locker.

The one place i do not fudge with that process is when the small fastener is providing a critical clamping force, more then just to keep the fastener from coming off.. Like the nut on a fork valve stack. Other then that wing it.

So really you need a 3/8 INLB TQ wrench and a 3/8 FTLB TQ wrench to cover your scale.. then add a 1/2 FTLB TQ wrench and your good... for a littler larger stuff.

What brand??? well.. I used Craftsman for a long time, and it worked well enough to teach me what was what when tightening fasteners. As those wrenches failed I replaced with snap on.

Torque Wrench, Adj. Click Type, U.S., Fixed-Ratchet, 40-200 in. lb., 1/4" drive
Stock #: QD1R200
$249
Torque Wrench, Adj. Click Type, U.S., Fixed, 20-100 ft. lb., 3/8" drive
Stock #: QD2100
$264
Torque Wrench, Adj. Click Type, U.S., Fixed, 5-75 ft. lb., 3/8" drive
Stock #: QD275
$264
Torque Wrench, Adj. Click Type, U.S., Fixed, 30-150 ft. lb., 1/2" drive
Stock #: QD3150
$294
Thats low buy in priced Snapon. you can go a bit higher or a lot higher.

IN something like craftsman (the lowest quality I would go)

Craftsman Microtork® Torque Wrench, 25-250 in. lbs., 3/8 in. Drive
$80
Craftsman Digitork® Torque Wrench, 5-80 ft. lbs., 3/8 in. Drive
$107
Craftsman Digitork® Torque Wrench, 25-250 ft. lbs., 1/2 in. Drive
$107

Notice there is no 1/4 drive option.

Those Craftsman wrenches will not last as long (few years if used weekly or more)
Often can not be re calibrated if over TQ'ed, dropped, or left set at a high end of scale for a long time (always tune the scale back to it's lowest setting when your done) (truthfully, the same is true of Snap-on TQ wrenches most times)

BUT they are a good buy in, at reasonable cost and they do work.
 
I suggest getting two torque wrenches. One in ft lbs and one in lbs. You will need both to do anything on a bike.

It doesnt matter which brand you get as long as its not a cheapo brand like HF. I own a shop and was a tech for many years before so i swear by snap-on and matco but craftsman will work if you dont want to spend the money on those. Also make sure you have them recalibrated every so often. Generally the cheaper they are the more often they go out of spec.
 
I knew I asked the right people! Thanks, guys - you have no idea how nice it is to get straight info that makes sense and isn't because someone's selling you stuff. :-D Seems like it's worse when they see a woman coming in.

I suspect I'm not going to be doing major disassembly any time soon but I'd like to get started with basics and work my way up to taking off more necessary bits and pieces. I really appreciate all your advice!

:thumb: :clap: :thumb:
 
I like the simple dial and bending beam torque wrenches but you do need room to use them. For tight spaces I like to use the "clicker" style.

I've got an inch lb that will cover some ft. lbs. torques (12x what ever ft lb measurement you need) and I need to get a ft. lb wrench that goes to 200 at least.
 
jeepinbanditrider said:
I like the simple dial and bending beam torque wrenches but you do need room to use them. For tight spaces I like to use the "clicker" style.

I've got an inch lb that will cover some ft. lbs. torques (12x what ever ft lb measurement you need) and I need to get a ft. lb wrench that goes to 200 at least.
Click to expand...

Since I don't have a garage, I've got the whole outdoors worth of room :lol2:
 
sKatZ said:
I knew I asked the right people! Thanks, guys - you have no idea how nice it is to get straight info that makes sense and isn't because someone's selling you stuff. :-D Seems like it's worse when they see a woman coming in.

I suspect I'm not going to be doing major disassembly any time soon but I'd like to get started with basics and work my way up to taking off more necessary bits and pieces. I really appreciate all your advice!

:thumb: :clap: :thumb:
Click to expand...

In that case
Craftsman Microtork® Torque Wrench, 25-250 in. lbs., 3/8 in. Drive
$80
Craftsman Digitork® Torque Wrench, 5-80 ft. lbs., 3/8 in. Drive
$107
those too should do most everything your looking for.

And if you get working on stuff with under 9ftlb or so (suspension valving) 1/4" drive inlb TQ wrench is the right tool.

':-D Seems like it's worse when they see a woman coming in."

My wife and i have been together more then 20 years...she has been in the automotive aftermarket parts sales / service, or dealership service area for 20 years.. She rides and can wrench on a bike or car with the best of um..

I get more tools, welder, rollaways, drill press, mil, lathe, ect parts, tool bits, accessory then any other man I know, all bought by my wife.

It's always fun when the surprised sales talks down to her... (um ok. well do you know what COLOR the motorcycle is you want parts for?) Then she recites the part, year make, model and often part number....and asks what the heck the color has to do with getting a set of piston, rings and top end gasket set???? clerk figures out she knows more about the product in question and tools, machinery tools, automotive or motorcycles then he does... Most of um to there credit brighten up and think it's great. :giveup:
 
bronco78 said:
In that case
Craftsman Microtork® Torque Wrench, 25-250 in. lbs., 3/8 in. Drive
$80
Craftsman Digitork® Torque Wrench, 5-80 ft. lbs., 3/8 in. Drive
$107
those too should do most everything your looking for.

And if you get working on stuff with under 9ftlb or so (suspension valving) 1/4" drive inlb TQ wrench is the right tool.

':-D Seems like it's worse when they see a woman coming in."

It's always fun when the surprised sales talks down to her... (um ok. well do you know what COLOR the motorcycle is you want parts for?) Then she recites the part, year make, model and often part number....and asks what the heck the color has to do with getting a set of piston, rings and top end gasket set???? clerk figures out she knows more about the product in question and tools, machinery tools, automotive or motorcycles then he does... Most of um to there credit brighten up and think it's great. :giveup:
Click to expand...

Thanks, bronco and cheers to your wife! It took me years to find a mechanic who didn't think I was a complete idiot. When my cars break - or are about to - I usually have a pretty good idea what's going on. Getting patted on the head and ignored to talk to my husband (who barely knows which end of a hammer to use) is really infuriating. Once I get this bike thing figured out, I'll be in pretty good shape. :-)

Thanks again!

--sent from a ridiculously complicated mobile device--
 
Monkey Wrench Cycles said:
I suggest getting two torque wrenches. One in ft lbs and one in lbs. You will need both to do anything on a bike.

It doesnt matter which brand you get as long as its not a cheapo brand like HF. I own a shop and was a tech for many years before so i swear by snap-on and matco but craftsman will work if you dont want to spend the money on those. Also make sure you have them recalibrated every so often. Generally the cheaper they are the more often they go out of spec.
Click to expand...

Good stuff! Thank you!

--sent from a ridiculously complicated mobile device--
 
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