Rear Wheel Bearing Removal Tool

Anyone in the DFW area (I'm in Carrollton) have a wheel bearing removal tool? My Concours is in need of a new back tire so I thought I might as well replace the rear bearings as well. Dang, trying to get the first bearing out has proven to be nearly impossible. Since there is a spacer inside the wheel that is the same diameter as the bearing, it does not make for an easy job. I've tried a drift, an expansion bolt, heating the hub, etc. No luck.

Anyone have a bearing removal tool for this?

Thanks.

I used a 1/4" x 12" drift with no problems. The "mushroom" on the head just seemed to catch the edge of the bearing making short work of it. Other than that, Harbor Freight had some bearing pullers IIRC. Can you use a screw driver to pry your bearing up from the center to gain some clearance for the drift?

I tried the drift, but won't catch much. The tube won't move enough out of the way to give much surface to grab. I've tried prying and everything. Needless to say, I'm quite IRRITATED!!!

Oh well.

I make a special drift out of some O1 drill rod I had around for making woodturning tools. I gave it a slightly angled tip so I could just catch the edge of the bearing to drive it out. I also hardened the end so it wouldn't get deformed much. Pretty much means I have to replace the bearings though, but it gets them out. Sorry you aren't down in Austin or I'd make you one. Amazing what you can do with a torch, a grinder and 25 cents of metal...and a need.

You guys are gonna freak out, but I welded a 1/4-20 wingnut to my bearings on the GS750 once. I then threaded in some all-thread and used it like a slide hammer to get it out.

It worked like a charm. Since the wheels are aluminum, It kept me from welding to anything important, and aluminum spreads the heat quickly and evenly to prevent distortion.

The only problem with this method is if you had painted wheels, you would probably scorch them close to the bearings.

YMMV, but this worked great for me.

Well, I determined the best way to remove bearings. Take the wheel along with a 12 pack of Coors Light to the Kawasaki shop. Bingo, within 5 minutes bearings are out!

msfdude said:

Well, I determined the best way to remove bearings. Take the wheel along with a 12 pack of Coors Light to the Kawasaki shop. Bingo, within 5 minutes bearings are out!

Click to expand...

Man you were over charged, usally a 6 pack well get'er done!. use a 12 pack on the real serious stuff.

msfdude said:

Well, I determined the best way to remove bearings. Take the wheel along with a 12 pack of Coors Light to the Kawasaki shop. Bingo, within 5 minutes bearings are out!

Click to expand...

See. You had the right "tool" for the job after all. He just works at a dealership.

It's a six pack if you haven't beat around on it. If you bring in parts in a box or a washtub with hammer/chisel marks all over them and it's obvious that you tried and gave up, it costs a bit more.

was having the rims powdercoated on the v-max.
the tube inside the rim. On the v-max it is firm from one side but when i go in from the other side of the rim it moves over abit enough to get a good byte with a small rod to knock out the bearing on that side. Then gut the rim from that side. all is left is the tapered bearing.
the only problems i have was getting the tapered bearing out, well just the outer race. tried everything. I took it to a machine shop, he tack welded a rod to the race and knocked it out. I coulda done that. was afraid of cracking the rim. Have heard to get the race out was to CAREFULLY weld a bead onto the race. the temperature differances causes it to come loose.
Later
Michael