Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! 
Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to 
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2007
- Messages
- 2,071
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- Antelope Valley CA
- First Name
- Scott
- Last Name
- Brown
Or maybe not. 
I took my lower motor mounts off of my 1250 to powder coat them another color along with a few other changes, which meant I also had to press out the steel encapsulated rubber bushings from the motor mounts again.
The motor mount rubber bushings are of the same design as those used for the handle bar and rider foot peg brackets, and if you've ever tried removing them or installing them without the right tools, it can be very hard and frustrating to do and you will very likely either damage the bushing or the bore that they're pressed into, and if they start in crooked it's quite likely that the outer steel case of the bushing will gouge out material as it's pressed in, which is not what you want to have happen.
Since you want to press only on the thin outer steel housing of the bushing when removing or installing them, so that you don't damage the bushing, you really need a simple tool like I made up that pushes on the thin outer sleeve on the bushing, and which is also guided and keeps the bushing square to the housing while removing and installing it.
I have made many such simple bushing and bearing remover/installers like this over the years, and it's really the only way to properly deal with bushings like those used in the lower motor mounts on the 1250, which have a .001 press fit, and which without a tool like this are near impossible to remove without screwing them up.
The removal part of the tool consists of two pieces of round aluminum, with the smaller one having a recess in the end of it for the small flange on inner bushing sleeve to fit into, so that it only pushes on the outer bushing sleeve. The larger piece has a large chamfer on the end with the opening which allows the radius on the back side of the motor mount brackets to self center into.
After assembling the bushing remover using the piece of threaded rod and nuts, you simply clamp the nut on the large end of the tool in a vice, and then turn the nut on the other end with a wrench until you have pushed the bushing out of the bracket.
Bushing removal setup.
The installer part of the tool uses the same aluminum sleeve that was used to press out the bushing, along with the base plate, threaded rod and nut.
I used one of my many fixturing plates I have to make over the years for the base plate by drilling and tapping a new hole in it, and then counter boring the hole for the large flange on the inner bushing sleeve to fit into as it's pressed into the bracket, as the larger flange on the inner bushing sleeve stick out past the backside of the bracket when its pressed in.
To install the bushings back into the motor mount brackets, you first screw the threaded rod into the base plate. Then place the motor mount bracket over the threaded rod, followed by the bushing, the installer sleeve and the nut.
Once everything is aligned and the nut is snugged down, clamp the plate in a vice and turn the nut until the bushing is pressed all the way in to the proper depth of which there is, for if the bushing is pressed in to far or not enough, when you bolt the motor mounts back to the frame you'll end up pushing or pulling laterally on the inner sleeve on the bushing which you really don't want to do.
Bushing installer setup.
I took my lower motor mounts off of my 1250 to powder coat them another color along with a few other changes, which meant I also had to press out the steel encapsulated rubber bushings from the motor mounts again.
The motor mount rubber bushings are of the same design as those used for the handle bar and rider foot peg brackets, and if you've ever tried removing them or installing them without the right tools, it can be very hard and frustrating to do and you will very likely either damage the bushing or the bore that they're pressed into, and if they start in crooked it's quite likely that the outer steel case of the bushing will gouge out material as it's pressed in, which is not what you want to have happen.
Since you want to press only on the thin outer steel housing of the bushing when removing or installing them, so that you don't damage the bushing, you really need a simple tool like I made up that pushes on the thin outer sleeve on the bushing, and which is also guided and keeps the bushing square to the housing while removing and installing it.
I have made many such simple bushing and bearing remover/installers like this over the years, and it's really the only way to properly deal with bushings like those used in the lower motor mounts on the 1250, which have a .001 press fit, and which without a tool like this are near impossible to remove without screwing them up.
The removal part of the tool consists of two pieces of round aluminum, with the smaller one having a recess in the end of it for the small flange on inner bushing sleeve to fit into, so that it only pushes on the outer bushing sleeve. The larger piece has a large chamfer on the end with the opening which allows the radius on the back side of the motor mount brackets to self center into.
After assembling the bushing remover using the piece of threaded rod and nuts, you simply clamp the nut on the large end of the tool in a vice, and then turn the nut on the other end with a wrench until you have pushed the bushing out of the bracket.
Bushing removal setup.
The installer part of the tool uses the same aluminum sleeve that was used to press out the bushing, along with the base plate, threaded rod and nut.
I used one of my many fixturing plates I have to make over the years for the base plate by drilling and tapping a new hole in it, and then counter boring the hole for the large flange on the inner bushing sleeve to fit into as it's pressed into the bracket, as the larger flange on the inner bushing sleeve stick out past the backside of the bracket when its pressed in.
To install the bushings back into the motor mount brackets, you first screw the threaded rod into the base plate. Then place the motor mount bracket over the threaded rod, followed by the bushing, the installer sleeve and the nut.
Once everything is aligned and the nut is snugged down, clamp the plate in a vice and turn the nut until the bushing is pressed all the way in to the proper depth of which there is, for if the bushing is pressed in to far or not enough, when you bolt the motor mounts back to the frame you'll end up pushing or pulling laterally on the inner sleeve on the bushing which you really don't want to do.
Bushing installer setup.
