Planning Big Bend trip - suggestions wanted

[cmoore]

I'm planning a 6 day trip to The Big Bend in February with my Brother. Riding a VStrom 650 and 1000. We are not aggressive/enduro riders, but want to explore the back country of BigB. Any suggestions will be appreciated. We plan to motel part of the time and camp other. Have been studying the maps and have a few routes planned. Any suggestions will be appreciated.. i.e. routes/roads/sights not to miss; places to stay/eat/see; What to avoid, etc. I am new to this site(this is my first post) and am impressed with the information provided. Thanks, Charlie Moore, Hot Springs, AR

[FotoMoto]

I've been out there twice this year (awesome) but only for the roads so I can't help you with the off-road choices (plenty of folks here can) but I do want to caution you on the camping. At the least it will be very, very cold at night but
it could be snowing or freezing rain.

[Tourmeister]

:tab Will you be running knobbies on the Stroms or something like Tourances/Anakees? Lots of loose rock and sand on the backroads. Some are fairly rough. If you don't have any offroading experience, I would be leary of doing it out there as a first experience. You will be very far from help and potentially without cell service. Take innertubes for the tires in case you get a sidewall tear that cannot be patched with a regular plug.

:tab All of the paved roads are fun. Those in the park are ALL 45MPH and patrolled. There is nice camping at the Rio Grande Village in the Eastern side of the park, and in the Basin near the center of the park. A short ways before you get to the Rio Grande Village, there is a turn off on a gravel road for some hotsprings on the river. This is a nice side trip. Bring a bathing suit and be prepared to change in the weeds ;-) The ride up into the Basin is pretty cool. There is the Old Ore Rd, River Rd East and West, and a few others in the park that are all gravel/rock/sand. The Stroms should be able to do it, but I would want the TKC 80's or something similar for tires. Would also be best if you could manage to do it without the luggage on the bikes ;-)

:tab Outside the park, the River Road (170) between Terlingua and Ruidosa is pretty good. No gas in Ruidosa, or much of anything else! Pinto Canyon Rd. runs from there up towards Marfa and is a spectacular unpaved ride. Some sections are pretty rocky and steep with no guard rails... If it rains, there could be some nasty mud. Before you get to Presidio on 170, there is a road to the North called Casa Piedra Rd that runs up to Plata and becomes Hwy 169. It is another great unpaved road! From Plata it is paved up to Marfa.

:tab Hwy 118 is great from 170 all the way up through Alpine and Ft. Davis to Hwy 166. The 166 loop is nice as well, all paved. There is a side trip off of 118 to the MacDonald Observatory, excellent ride! This is Spur 78.

[Tourmeister]

Oh yeah... welcome to the site! :wave:

[Sleepy Weasel]

If you're planning to camp, use the bear boxes. I haven't seen a bear out there, but the javelinas know the exact location of every campground in the park. Last year we had a good time watching one tear open some kid's backpack when she forgot she left food in it.

I haven't seen many of the dirt roads there, but the ones I was on had some real nice washboard sections to them.
:flip:

[JROBERTS_BREWER]

Howdy "Carlos"

You planing on attending Ride the Rio? If you are, I'll look for you. I intend to go for sure this year.

[Stromboy]

Hi Charlie,
Big Bend is kinda my home away from home so I'll throw in my 2 cents worth.
As far as where to ride, what Scott said. As far as roads to avoid, I would stay off the River Road in the south end of the Park from Castolon to Rio Grande Village, and any other roads south of the Chisos as many of them are not even maintained at all. It's very rough in places and the Stroms are really too heavy for what you will encounter there.
Camp one ni. at Rio Grande Village and go take a soak in the hot springs.
Spend an afternoon (after 4 pm) on the Porch at the Terlingua Store w/ the locals watching the sun set on the Chisos Mts. (Buy your beer inside)
Go see Santa Alena Canyon and hike a little ways up in it.
Go see the Chisos Basin.
Places to stay...
The 2 most affordable are the Terlingua Ranch Lodge, 432-371-2416. It's a ways out there, but the riding is good and there are hundreds of miles of unpaved roads to explore, many of which the Stroms can handle.
The other is Wild Horse Station north of Study Butte, 432-371-2526. They have cabins & nice trailers w/ covered decks and the prices vary according to size. Magnificent sunsets.
Places to eat...
The Chili Pepper in Study Butte
The Star Light next to the Terlingua Store in Terlingua
La Kiva in Study Butte, if they have their new kitchen in operation
The Boat House in Terlingua for sandwiches & such.
Ms. Tracy's in Terlingua.

BTW, I like your choice in bikes. Mine's a Yellow '03.
Hope you guys have a great trip. If you have any questions e-mail me at rcarnes@direcway.com and I'll be glad to help if I can.

Randy

[Teeds]

At the least it will be very, very cold at night but
it could be snowing or freezing rain.

Weather should not be a problem. I am out there frequently throughout the winter between work and play and spring comes very early to Big Bend. It was in the 70's and low 80's last week. Admittedly it wierd right now, but the afternoon temps last winter were usually in the low 70's and quickly warmed up from the mid 20's as soon as the sun crested the horizon.

The River Road across the bottom of the park is maintained during the winter (busy) season. I rode it the week before Christmas and it is actually quite smooth and rut free. The east end is in better condition, so I would suggest starting from that end and working west. You can always turn around if it gets too dicey for your tastes.

Definitely check out the Hot Springs (SE corner of the park on the river) and be sure to have a few bills to pick up a decorated stick from the Mexicans that are across the river hawking their artwork.

I have never camped at Rio Grande Village, but the area is beautiful for sure.

I cannot believe no one has mentioned 170 yet (maybe I missed it), but be sure to make the run north to Presidio along the river.

If you are up for about 25 miles of gravel (after entering the ranch) check out Big Bend Ranch State Park and stay at Sauceda (ranch headquarters). Beds in the bunkhouse are very reasonable and dinner and breakfast are included in the price. I will give you fair warning to make reservations now though as Big Bend Ranch is popular in the springtime.
http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/big_bend_ranch/

If you are feeling really fiesty, check out Presidio and Ojinaga Mexico. There is a really nice canyon about 25 miles south of town that we are going to check out the next time we are there.
http://presidiotex.com/,
http://www.ojinaga.com/, and
http://www.ojinaga.com/Peguis/peguis.html

I would not miss Pinto Canyon Road. It is a bit rough, but in my opinion doable. I would suggest north from Ruidosa to Marfa as you will be climbing the canyon. I would feel that would be easier than wrestling the bikes down some of the curves and grades. I'm sure others will pipe with their opinions. Follow 170 north out of Presidio towards the end of the world and you will find Ruidosa on the map. Pinto Canyon Road heads northeast and connects to FM 2810.
http://www.marfatx.com/c_recreation.asp

Marfa is worthy of a day between all the "cool" places to see and the Marfa lights, which are viewable most evenings from a TexDOT parking area on US 90 about 5 miles east of Marfa. Stay at the Thunderbird (recently renovated "happy days era" motel) or the Hotel Piasano (where Liz Taylor, Rock Hudson and James Dean stayed while filming Giant). The Hotel Paisano has a great restaurant as well.
http://www.marfa.org/

Not actually part of Big Bend, but part of the region for sure, is the Davis Mountain Loop ... west from Fort Davis on 118 to 166 and around to the south and back into town. Speaking of 118, I know people in the Metromess that drive to Kent (I10 and 118) and drive 118 all the way to Study Butte as their preferred entry into Big Bend area. The Hotel Limpia is a nice place to stay, as is the Indian Lodge at the State Park, which has camping as well. McDonald Observatory is really worth the time.
http://www.marfatx.com/c_recreation.asp,
http://www.fortdavis.com/,
http://www.hotellimpia.com/,
http://www.nps.gov/foda/,
http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/davis_mountains/, http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/findadest/parks/indian_lodge/, and
http://mcdonaldobservatory.org/

Now back at Terlingua and Study Butte ...
Definitely eat at
La Kiva - My steak there a few weeks ago was a perfect medium rare. Be sure and check out the bathrooms.
Starlight - Steaks are great and where else would you be served steak by a vegetarian waitress.
Ms. Tracy's - On Friday!! - She served English Fish and Chips, but only on Friday. She is from England, you know, and does the motherland proud.
Ditto on Stromboy's comment about drinking a beer on the porch of the Starlight and watching Mule Ears as the sun sets.
Tivo's Mexican Food is on 118 across from the entrance road (ok, maybe a mile south) to Terlingua Ranch. They used to be in "downtown" Study Butte, but apparently moved to get some business from folks on the ranch.
Terlingua Ranch is a nice place to stay, but I don't know that I would waste my time with the Bad Rabbit Cafe for anything other than "slow leisurely meal" Get my drift? Think Terlingua time and multiply by at least two.
http://www.terlinguaranch.com/ and
http://www.terlinguatx.com/

Within Big Bend National Park ...
Santa Elena Canyon Overlook and Hiking Path are a must see.
The Basin Area is beautiful, but will be crowded for sure.
If you are up for a walk check out the Window in the Basin Area. All the water in the basin flows through that slot. It is 4 1/2 miles one way and a 800 foot decent to the window. Be prepared for a hike back out.
I mentioned the Hot Springs as have others.
http://www.nps.gov/bibe/home.htm

I will leave Balmorhea, Alpine and (as they say on Greyhound) points west until a later trip as this could easily fill a week or three. :rider:

[Teeds]

Oh yeah... welcome to the site! :wave:

ditto :welcome:

[Tourmeister]

Geez Teeds! Next time I head out there I wanna go with you! ;-)

[Teeds]

Geez Teeds! Next time I head out there I wanna go with you! ;-)

Scott:

You know the man that knows the area best. Get that GS gone and get a DS machine. Steve will be hosting another Lost Trail Ride soon.

Steve and I are of a like mind that a proper bed and conventional seating at a restaurant are nice after a days ride.

As much as I love camping and hanging out by the fire, I usually find myself wanting at least a cot anymore as a bed. My back hurt for a week following my trip out there on Christmas night (I travelled light and used a tent and sleeping bag).

One of my best photos of the trip. This is why we have been going to Grassy Banks for 16 years now, the same week every year. The cast of characters changes every year, but everyone makes every trip that they can.

Tony

[cmoore]

Tony, You should start a tour business. Great info !!!! Thanks to all who have responded. Keep it up.... still a month before we leave. Charlie

[Teeds]

Tony, You should start a tour business. Charlie

The thought has crossed my mind and you are not the first person to suggest it. We already have one tour compamy on the site and I don't want to interfere with that business.

Maybe when I "retire", whatever that is. Right now I manage to get away from the office almost 5 weeks a year and am on the road and get lost on Texas backroads far more days than many that I work with would ever imagine. Cell phones have really set me free. I can open my office (laptop) anywhere I can sit down. I have branch offices in some of the most beautiful areas of this wonderful state.

As a board member of the Texas Downtown Association, I get to work with some of the finest members of our state, the wonderful and dedicated folks that promote small town Texas.

With jobs in Pecos and Fort Stockton at the moment, I find myself in West Texas often. Because Pecos in within visual reange of El Capitan (yes, you can see it from Orla), I am focusing at the moment on the area roughly bounded by Pecos, Sierra Blanca and Whites City NM.

[scratch]

Within Big Bend National Park ...
Santa Elena Canyon Overlook and Hiking Path are a must see.
The Basin Area is beautiful, but will be crowded for sure.
If you are up for a walk check out the Window in the Basin Area. All the water in the basin flows through that slot. It is 4 1/2 miles one way and a 800 foot decent to the window. Be prepared for a hike back out.
The Lost Mine Trail is another great hike. It's about 4.5 miles round trip, but you'll be ascending (then descending) 1,250 feet if you go the full distance. Figure about 4-5 hours to do the entire length. Well worth it though, for the beautiful scenery and spectacular views. There's a parking lot right at the trailhead as you drive/ride into the Basin.

Nice write-up & campfire shot, BTW. 8-)

[Desert Skies]

If you do Old Ore Rd, be sure and check out Ernst Tanaja, about 5 miles from the east entrance of OOR. Neat rock formations there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/DesertSkies/Big%20Bend%2012-05/Img_0948_800.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/DesertSkies/Big%20Bend%2012-05/Img_0949_800.jpg

[Sleepy Weasel]

If you do Old Ore Rd, be sure and check out Ernst Tanaja, about 5 miles from the east entrance of OOR. Neat rock formations there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/DesertSkies/Big%20Bend%2012-05/Img_0949_800.jpg

And no, that's not just a big black hole in the rock. That's a big hole in the rock, full of black water.

Two suggestions, since people seem compelled to cliff dive into this pool:
1. Bring along 10 feet or so of some kind of rope you can use to hoist a partner out with. The water level appears to vary widely from time to time, and can get low enough to make it difficult to simply stand up top and reach down to help someone out. The rock is slick enough that divers will need extraction.
2. Because the water level varies, check it out before jumping from some of the higher rock ledges.

[Teeds]

Desert Skies: As many times as I have passed the sign, I have never ventured to Ernst Tanaja. Now it is going to move from the "someday" list to the "must do" list.

Thanks Paul! I took about 50 or 60 shots total between that morning and the previous morning. The first morning the sky was on fire and I got some beautiful shots. On Wednesday morning all the old farts (me included) were up drinking coffee by about 5:30 AM. That is my favorite time of the day in Big Bend. The scale of Big Bend is so immmense that the pre-dawn twilight brings a satisfying focus to the scale, that I like.

Thanks also for the tip on the Lost Mine Trail as well. I have never stopped there. It was swamped with cars and hikers last week, so there was no opportunity. I want to get back out to the south rim and shoot some dawn shots there ... talk about cool!

I am finally beginning to understand my 20D. I shot on auto for a long time, but now I use primarily manual, except when shooting sports. I am still learning how to manipulate the files to create a final photo, but have not fooled with the RAW files yet. I hope to dig into that soon.

[Desert Skies]

One more for you. Here is a shot of my riding buddy Bruce, just for a scale prospective.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/DesertSkies/Big%20Bend%2012-05/Img_0950_800.jpg

[XR650Rocketman]

Hey all you Big Bend addicts....

I've been following this thread all along just making sure all the best info is being put out...It is!!! You guys are doing a great job....I just need to stay on the side lines a little longer....But hope to be back and active real soon...

[Desert Skies]

Hey all you Big Bend addicts....

I've been following this thread all along just making sure all the best info is being put out...It is!!! You guys are doing a great job....I just need to stay on the side lines a little longer....But hope to be back and active real soon...


Take your time bro...

[backspinnn]

What's up Teeds,

I was one of the KLR riders at the Terlingua ghost town restaurant shortly after Christmas...(the exact name is unclear to me at this moment)

For the folks looking for ride reqs...

Big Bend is a good adventure this time of year. No bugs, no heat and no water so take plenty. I think Hen Egg mountain road would be a good adventure on the stroms. If you want a little more adventure and a very scenic ride check out Lake Ament Rd to Gate 9 in Terlingua Ranch that was one of my favorite rides among the 600 miles we did in a few days.

[Teeds]

What's up Teeds,

Just the usual, planning a ride in order to combat the post holiday blahs!! :ponder:

I was one of the KLR riders at the Terlingua ghost town restaurant shortly after Christmas...(the exact name is unclear to me at this moment)

That would have been Ms Tracy's! :eat3: Good food and a great view of the park and Mule Ears from the porch.

Big Bend is a good adventure this time of year. No bugs, no heat and no water so take plenty. I think Hen Egg mountain road would be a good adventure on the stroms. If you want a little more adventure and a very scenic ride check out Lake Ament Rd to Gate 9 in Terlingua Ranch that was one of my favorite rides among the 600 miles we did in a few days.

:nono:

I have not ridden Lake Ament Road and we were cautioned not to during the DS ride last month. There apparently is a "land owner" with an "attitude" near the lake that is a bit of a ... uh ... eccentric recluse is a nice term (others would say the south end of a northbound mule). Steve asked that we stay off of that road in order to not stir the fellow up.

North DFW huh! :ponder:

[cmoore]

Scott, My request for Big Bend trip suggestions was my first post on this website. All I can say is "fantastic" responses and incredable pictures. I did "Ride the Rio" in 03 and rode all over Big Bend.... so I thought. Now I know I have seen very little of Big B. The great ideas presented here will make our February trip a real adventure and I just hope we can see (and eat at) most of what you all have suggested. Thanks for providing this great forum. Charlie Moore, Hot Springs, AR

[perterra]

I'm glad your happy, all its done is make me want a dual sport even more.:lol2: Big Bend is a neat get away. The first few times I went we went in 4WD's so I explored a good bit. The last three times has been with a group of road touring bikes. Cant do much explorin on a Gold Wing.

[Desert Skies]

Cant do much explorin on a Gold Wing.

Sure ya can!

http://mishuna.image.pbase.com/u26/emilioscotto/upload/43272190.50jpg.jpg

Emilio Scotto - Around the World - 10 years - 465,000 Miles - 232 Countries

More on the guy.
http://www.pbase.com/emilioscotto



.

[perterra]

Sure ya can!


Emilio Scotto - Around the World - 10 years - 465,000 Miles - 232 Countries



Trust me, it would be easier done on a 4 cyl wing than a GL1800. :nono: I cant imagine the rattles mine would have after running the ore road. Heck, even with the preload maxed mine drags bottom just pulling in to some of the local bean palaces

[Desert Skies]

Trust me, it would be easier done on a 4 cyl wing than a GL1800. :nono: I cant imagine the rattles mine would have after running the ore road. Heck, even with the preload maxed mine drags bottom just pulling in to some of the local bean palaces

I hear ya, the tupperware rattles on my 1800 just riding down my street. I rode my GS down Ole Ore Road last month, I'm sure the wing would'a bottomed out more that once.

[Teeds]

I rode my GS down Ole Ore Road last month, I'm sure the wing would'a bottomed out more that once.

OK, I am connecting the dots ... Were you on the Terlingua Ranch DS ride last month?

[Desert Skies]

OK, I am connecting the dots ... Were you on the Terlingua Ranch DS ride last month?


One of my riding buddies and I was there a week before the DS ride. We put around 200 miles on the dirt the 3 days we were there.