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Battery or Rectifier problem...

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rbwkawa500

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Brownwood, Tx
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Blake
I just got this bike not to long ago its a 1993 Suzuki Katana 600 and i just put a new battery in it that has been charged fully. After a day or so of riding the battery is completely drained. I need to find the rectifier according to one of my mechanic friends. Only problem is i dont know where that is. Anyone know where it is?
 
rbwkawa500 said:
I just got this bike not to long ago its a 1993 Suzuki Katana 600 and i just put a new battery in it that has been charged fully. After a day or so of riding the battery is completely drained. I need to find the rectifier according to one of my mechanic friends. Only problem is i dont know where that is. Anyone know where it is?
Click to expand...

alternator.bmp


It's part number 10.
 
In diagnosing your bike's altenator system, put a VOM on the battery terminals while the engine is runing and observe the voltage. If the system is charging properly, you should see in excess of 13 VDC at the battery at idle. If you rev the engine slightly, this voltage should move up slightly. If the alternator is not supplying current to the battery, you'll see less than 12VDC with the engine running indicating that the battery is furnishing all the electrical load without any help from the alternator.

The diode/regulator is repairable on some designs. I am not familar with your model or the design details but the diodes and zener may be able to be replaced. Also, I have seen owners build their own remote mounted bridge-rectifier regulator in order to mount it in a location that subjects the asembly to less heat (the typical enemy of diode/regulators and cause of most failures).

If the parts are not available from the motorcycle dealer, consult with an alternator, starter repair shop. They can likely give you good advice.
 
Last edited:
bronco78 said:
It's part number 10.
Click to expand...


Are you sure about that? That just looks like an end cap/cover for the end of the alternator shaft. I don't think the rectifier/regulator is even in that picture.

Look around on your bike for a little finned box about the size of a deck of cards. That should be the part in question. It's probably inside the fairing but in a spot where the breeze can get to it when you are moving.

If you are lucky you can unplug and unbolt that and swap it out and you're good to go. Otherwise you probabaly need a new alternator which would cost twice as much and be at least twice as difficult to change.

Also, on a bike the age of yours, it could just be corroded wiring that prevents a good charge from reaching the battery... particularly if it has been parked out in the rain a lot. But I'll bet ti just needs a new regulator/rectifier.
 
CycleCat said:
Are you sure about that? That just looks like an end cap/cover for the end of the alternator shaft. I don't think the rectifier/regulator is even in that picture.

Look around on your bike for a little finned box about the size of a deck of cards. That should be the part in question. It's probably inside the fairing but in a spot where the breeze can get to it when you are moving.

If you are lucky you can unplug and unbolt that and swap it out and you're good to go. Otherwise you probabaly need a new alternator which would cost twice as much and be at least twice as difficult to change.

Also, on a bike the age of yours, it could just be corroded wiring that prevents a good charge from reaching the battery... particularly if it has been parked out in the rain a lot. But I'll bet ti just needs a new regulator/rectifier.
Click to expand...

As I do not own the bike,, nor ever worked on a 1993 KAT,,, No, I'm not positive..

BUT..:roll:
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0040/alternator/alternator.cfm?man=su&groupid=4950&parent=4850


( 10 ) 32500-27A00
>> REGULATOR

32500-27A00 - REGULATOR

Part Number: 32500-27A00
Description: REGULATOR
Source: SUZUKI
Price: $123.41

So,, yes,, I'm pretty sure :thumb:
 
You're right. That's what it says. It just doesn't look right. :brainsnap It doesn't even have wires attached. I wonder if they've mislabeled it.
 
CycleCat said:
You're right. That's what it says. It just doesn't look right. :brainsnap It doesn't even have wires attached. I wonder if they've mislabeled it.
Click to expand...
Item 14

Part Number: 31480-48B00
Description: WIRE LEAD
Source: SUZUKI
Price: $14.63
It's an exploded diagram.. for parts selection.. not really designed for repair use or diagnostic procedures.
 
My LS650 has the rectifier up under the seat. You have rectifiers and regulators, and then there are the lawyers....
 
Yeah the diagram is right, that is the regulator, i just hope thats not my problem seems a little expensive for what it is. I will have to try and see though
 
Check both the rectifier and the stator.

The stator should have 3 leads. You need to isolate the stator first, usually a connector on the wiring harness. With an ohmmeter, you should find continuity between each lead. No continuity = broken winding. Also check between each lead and ground. Cracked insulation can short the winding to ground. Either of these tests fails, and you need a new stator.:thumbd:

For a quick check on the rectifier diodes, you need also isolate the rectifier. You should find three leads from the stator plus an input and output connection.

On the input side, place negative lead on input wire and positive on a stator connection. You should find measurable resistance. Reverse meter leads and you should find no continuity.

On the output side, place positive lead on the output and negative on a stator connection. Again, you should find measurable resistance. Reverse the test leads and you should find no continuity.

Try salvage yards if you want a lower price on parts. Just make sure you do the same test on their parts before you buy.:thumb:
 
it is possible that it is your rect. reg. Unfortunately you will not know until you put a ohm reader to it,as an earlier member suggested.even then, it could also be that your stator coil is opened or shorted or your ignition main switch is grounding internally or 25 other things. electrical is always the most difficult to track down. the simplest anwser is often the one that takes the longest to find. i know this is way too simple of a solution, but do you have the right size battery. It sounds silly but i've had a number of customers that this has happened to. good luck to you.
 
if it was me i would pull the whole assembly off and send to an alternator shop and have it rebuilt
 
Sometimes there is parasitic loss that causes heat and undervoltage situation due to current draw by faulty wiring/connectors (as was the case on my Aprilia Mille R), all that is needed in this case is a fat wire between the diode and the battery. A voltmeter can be used to locate the current draw site after confirming rectifier functionality in the manner described in above posts.
 
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