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Ride Report: A Tour Through the Southwestern States *Photos*

Joined
Jul 26, 2012
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Location
DFW, TX
With the track/racing season being over, it seemed like the perfect time to go on a little ride through the country side. It also just so happened that the wife was going to be working in Salt Lake City for a few weeks, which isn’t a bad destination on the worst of days. So I planned for a 10-12 day ride through the southwestern states, with a pit stop in Salt Lake City for Thanksgiving.

Day 1: Arlington, TX to Palo Duro Canyon, TX (376 miles)

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It is well known that escaping the flatness and endless monotony of West Texas is challenging, and this day was no different. My goal was to get to the scenic highlight of the Texas panhandle, Palo Duro Canyon. The ride there was exactly as one would expect – long and uneventful. I stopped around Wichita Falls, Childress, and Tulia, and made it to Palo Duro Canyon in roughly 7.5 hours. I had last been there in the Summer of ‘08, and the scenery matched my memories – they do not call it the “Grand Canyon of Texas” for no reason. It is the second largest canyon in the United States (about 120 miles long and over 800 ft deep), and was formed by water erosion from the Red River. Raccoons were rampant throughout the campgrounds, and a few of them were up to all sorts of shenanigans all around my tent that night, which did not seem to help with my insomnia.

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Day 2: Palo Duro Canyon State Park, TX to Great Sand Dunes National Park, CO (385 miles)

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I left early the next morning to head north into New Mexico via US-87 through Texline, TX, where I also gained an hour by entering the Mountain Time Zone. I then continued north via US-85/I-25 and entered Colorado via the Raton Pass (elevation 7834 ft) through the eastern side of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. If the scenery in New Mexico was a solid step up from the monotony of the Texas panhandle, then Colorado’s beautiful mountains and valleys were off the scale. Many of the roads snaked their way through the mountains, and ran right alongside the mountain streams in the valleys. At Walsenburg, I caught US-160 and headed west, past Lathrop State Park and through the La Veta Pass into the San Luis Valley to Great Sand Dunes National Park. This is a fascinating place that contains the tallest sand dunes in North America (up to 750 ft tall), and were formed by sediment deposits of the Rio Grande. It is an eerie feeling to stand in the San Luis Valley of Colorado and see the type of dunes that one would expect to see in the Saharan desert of North Africa. That night was bitter cold, with temperatures dipping down to 10° Fahrenheit at night. The next morning, everything was covered in frost, including the C-14, the tent, and even some of my clothes that had been inside the tent. I decided to wait an extra hour before departing, in hopes of letting some of the frost and ice to melt off the roads.

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Day 3: Great Sand Dunes National Park, CO to Arches National Park, UT (337 miles)

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Temperatures were still in the high teens when I left Great Sand Dunes, and this was clearly stretching the capabilities of my gear. The C-14 has fairly good wind protection, and I had a one-piece thermosuit with several layers underneath, pretty good winter gloves, heated grips set on high, balaclava, and hand warmers inside the gloves and boots, but at any kind of speed the cold air seemed to cut through my gear like a knife. I shivered my way to Del Norte, where I holed up inside Boogie’s Restaurant to thaw my frozen digits with the help of some hot coffee and French toast. This was also where the C-14 complained that the FOB battery was running low (of course!), sending me on a side mission of finding a consumer electronics store, which I was told I could likely find in Pagosa Springs, which was on my route anyway. The road to Pagosa Springs led via Wolf Creek Pass (elevation 10,857 ft) on the continental divide, which proved to be quite interesting. As soon as I got past the town of South Fork, snow began to appear on both sides of the road, covering the ground, and occasionally creeping out onto the road. Far more worrisome though was the occasional presence of ice patches on the road, which were difficult to tell from non-icy spots that were just reflecting in the sunlight. To make things really fun, that road was also very steep (7-8% slope) and twisty, including some tight switchbacks that made the heart grow fonder. Finally in Pagosa Springs, I managed to organize some fresh batteries for the stupid FOB, and then continued on through Durango, entering Utah via US-491, and then north past Moab into Arches National Park. Winter in the Mountain Time Zone meant that sunset occurred just past 5pm, which in turn meant that I had to give it some throttle if I wanted to set up camp before dark. Arches had some very nice twisties – shame that there were other park visitors who could not be trusted on the roads. The park itself is beautiful, with over 2000 natural sandstone arches that are the result of fin erosion triggered by subsurface movement of the salt bed that the rock formations in the park sit upon.

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Day 4: Arches National Park, UT to Canyonlands National Park, UT (70 miles)

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There was a lot to experience and see at Arches, so I decided to hang out in the park the next day, before later making my way to Canyonlands – a whopping 70 miles SW of Arches. About a dozen pictures in, my camera’s batteries died on me. This was actually rather unexpected, as the particular battery setup that I used typically lasts for a couple of thousand images without effort. There I was, in a place that contained some of the most widely-recognized landmarks in the southwestern United States, and no camera to capture the memories. Talk about the eunuch in the harem! I hauled *** back into Moab, where I was fortunately able to locate both a charger and a place with a very chatty employee who would let me charge my batteries there. I decided to kill the time by enjoying some brew at the Moab Brewery – one of many microbreweries in Utah – with some Derailleur Ale. With fully-charged batteries, I ran back up the mountain and snapped away. I gave myself just enough time to make the ride to Canyonlands and arrive there with minutes to spare before sunset. Canyonlands was truly a fascinating place, much more so than I had imagined. It is much more rugged and less developed than Arches, giving it a bit more of a genuine feel. For starters, you have to bring in absolutely everything, as there isn’t even any running water at the campground. Primitive campgrounds tend to hold off the iPhone crowds a bit more, so I did get to enjoy some solitude there.

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Day 5: Canyonlands National Park, UT to Salt Lake City, UT (309 miles)

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It was too cold to sleep any more than a few hours, so I was up long before sunrise, and got to watch the sunrays gradually creep across the canyons. The sheer size of the landscape there was incredible – over 330,000 acres of canyons and rivers that are divided into multiple districts, some of which are only accessible by 4x4 (and enduros). In many ways, Canyonlands reminded me of the Grand Canyon, just without the infrastructure and iPhones along the rim. This is one place that I need to come back to for some serious hiking (or riding) and exploring within the canyon(s). The ride to Salt Lake City was interesting. It started off rather boring heading northwest via US-191 and I-70, but as soon as I past the city of Price, the road suddenly became a blast to ride. A seemingly never-ending array of twisties, intersected by super-fun sweepers on US-6, US-189, all the way until I-80, and even some of the super slab parts were a blast. I arrived in Salt Lake City grinning from ear to ear, ready to spend a night with the wife under a solid roof. That night, we went out and sampled some more local brew at a downtown watering hole, called the Beehive, where we exchanged war stories with a bunch of locals and fellow travelers.

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A squatch footprint.

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Day 6: Thanksgiving in Salt Lake City (no riding)
Lots of good food, good company, and no riding.


Day 7: Bryce Canyon National Park (no riding)
We decided that Black Friday was an excellent excuse to do some hiking at Bryce Canyon, another one of Utah’s premier national parks. Located in the southwestern part of the state near the town of Panguitch, this 35,000+ acre park encompasses a collection of red and orange rock formations that produce an absolutely spectacular sight. The weather was perfect for hiking – sunny skies with temperatures in the low 50s. We decided to hike both the Navajo and Peekaboo trails, which made for a total of roughly 8 miles of hiking, including a 2000-ft change in elevation. The sights were absolutely stunning, with perfect scenery around every corner. The 8-hour round-trip drive was a long one to do in one day, but ultimately well worth it, considering the experience.

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Day 8: Salt Lake City, UT to Zion National Park, UT (317 miles)

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Since temperatures were consistently well below freezing at night, I decided to avoid the frosty backroads, and took the super slab for the first couple of hours that day. A bit south of Nephi I then took US-50 and US-89 all the way until UT-9, which led me into Zion National Park. This massive area (146,000+ acres) around Zion Canyon features more ancient rock formations that were produced by sediment deposits that were uplifted and later cut by the Virgin river. Much like Arches, Zion had a well-developed infrastructure, which meant the presence of a large number of iPhones throughout the rim area. I camped there that night, and went off early the next morning to ride the scenic rim route. Some of the last remnants of the Fall colors were still showing, producing a whole spectrum of natural colors, ranging from white to green and red. This was also where a group of overly excited and underly-attentive Asian tourists were determined to test my slow-speed maneuvering skills by jumping directly into the path of the C-14, causing me to veer around them just as I was coming to a halt. Top-heavy 600-lb motorcycles do not appreciate braking at slow speed with the clip-ons fully turned, and I had to do a bit of a monster lunge with my right leg to keep her upright. That’s okay – I successfully resisted the urge to toss said tourists over the nearby cliff.

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Day 9: Zion National Park, UT to Grand Canyon National Park, AZ (251 miles)

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This was supposed to be an easy-peasy day, but because I spent a fair amount of time scratching around Zion that morning, I ended up making it just in time. I rode mostly US-89 east and then south into Arizona, just west of Lake Powell, UT, and north of the town of Page, AZ. Most of that route was way to straight for my taste, but there really wasn’t a suitable alternative to get to the south rim of the Grand Canyon. I entered the park via Desert View on the southeastern side of the canyon. From there, it was another 25 miles of slow twisties to the campground at Canyon Village. Due to the low nighttime temperatures (17° Fahrenheit that night), the campground was largely empty, which did not stop me from nearly hitting an adult elk that was clearly waiting for me to yield, while my attention was focused on scoping out camp sites. I set up camp, squitted it over to the general store, and loaded up on fire wood, imitation crab, and odd beers. The status of the Grand Canyon – it is a World Heritage site and often considered to be one of the seven World Wonders – was readily apparent: I even had 3G signal out there. I have previously hiked to the bottom of the canyon, and strongly recommend this as a bucket list item to anyone who appreciates the great outdoors! Not only is it a reasonably challenging feat, but the sights are breathtakingly beautiful, making the hike an almost spiritual experience.

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Day 10: Grand Canyon National Park, AZ to Montrose, CO (382 miles)

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While logic and reason would have taken me eastwards back toward New Mexico and flat Texas, my heart instead took me northward toward the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in Colorado. The route there led via US-160 north, and got interesting as soon as I passed Cortez, CO. I had to cross the San Juan Mountains (part of the Rocky Mountains) via Lizard Head Pass (elevation 10,222 ft), which was another lively experience. Snow and ice on both sides of the road ensured that my attention was pinned to the road surface, ready to evade patches of ice on the pavement that were kept frozen by the shadows of the rock formations surrounding the road. I had found a couchsurfing host in nearby Montrose, Colorado, and this turned out to be a rather interesting evening. This lady was a professional quilter, and that evening she and some of her friends gave me a thorough introduction into this odd profession. Combined with the warm meal, hot shower, and real bed, that night was a solid win all around.

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Day 11: Montrose, CO to Trinidad Lake, CO (283 miles)

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I got up early and spent the morning exploring the southern rim of the nearby Black Canyon, which was completely desolate at the time. This canyon surrounds the Gunnison river, and is in all 48-miles long. It also features some massively steep descends – much steeper than the Grand Canyon, for example – which makes for some impressive views from the rim. Hello acrophobia! The road along the rim was full of tight switchbacks, and would have been a blast hadn’t it been for the ice and snow. As it was, the C-14 and I behaved and kept it slow. My original plan was to make it all the way back into New Mexico that day, camping at Sugarite Canyon State Park near Raton, NM. However, with daylight quickly running out in the late afternoon, I opted for staying at Trinidad Lake State Park near Trinidad, CO, instead. The route there led through another mountain pass, Monarch Pass (elevation 11,312 ft) at the Continental Divide. The pass was the usual combination of exciting scary with ice and snow lining the road and 7% grade slopes. Trinidad lake was completely abandoned, and I once again got to enjoy complete solitude for the night. The only exception to this was a coyote that suddenly started calling from what must have been just a few feet from my tent. I would have gotten up and cussed him out, but I was too tired and too cold to move, and whispered canine obscenities instead.

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Day 12: Trinidad Lake, CO to Arlington, TX (600 miles)

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Time to go home! I got up early at 5:30am, and was packed up and on the road my 6:30am, making my way through the Raton Pass (elevation 7834 ft) via the Santa Fe Trail into New Mexico, and then following US-87 back into the eternal monotony of the Texas panhandle. Once past Amarillo, it was a forever-ride straight on US-287 south, for hours and hours. I only stopped for gas, and arrived in the DFW area just in time to catch rush hour traffic. I pulled into my driveway almost exactly 11 hours after leaving Trinidad Lake, CO, that morning. The trip had taken a total of 12 days, and covered roughly 3500 miles. And good times were had by all.

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PS: If you actually read this entire post, then I admire your commitment and entirely question your sanity.
 
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PS: If you actually read this entire post, then I admire your commitment and entirely question your sanity.
Well, I "really" didn't read the whole post... But the pictures are FANTASTIC! Well done! :clap:
 
Great trip report and photos! Utah is a wonderful state. Lived there from 80-82 finishing college
 
I read it all. Well done! Fantastic shots! :clap:

:tab I have ridden almost all of the same stuff except for when you ran up to Salt Lake City. The run between Bryce Canyon on 24/12 to Hanksville is superb!! We also ran down 95 to 276 and stayed at Halls Crossing at the Bull Frog Marina. Then rode the ferry over the lake in the morning and ran down to the Mokee Dugway on 261 and on down to Valley of the Gods and Monument Valley. We eventually worked back up 191 to Moab, then over to Grand Junction via 128 and stopped in Montrose for a three day rally. Black Canyon of the Gunnison is a regular stop for trips in that area. Hwy 92 on the North side of the canyon is also excellent!
 
I too read it all, and I too have traversed many of those same roads. The next time you make it back out this way, try not to miss Canyon de Chelly. It was not that far out of the way for you when you left the GC, and based upon your other statements in the report I can assure you that you would have enjoyed it.

Great ride and a great report. Thanks for sharing.
 
Awesome stuff. At first I assumed this was an older ride report that had gotten pulled back up but noooooo, it's November & you're riding New Mexico, Colorado and Utah!
 
Nice report. Really enjoyed the photos. I've never done the camping, but I'm leaning more toward that every trip. BTW: What tank bag are you using? It's hard to find a bag that will sit that far up on a Connie tank. Thx.
 
Thanks for the great report on a wonderful trip. I have to say, though, you were very lucky with the weather! One storm system could have made it very, very interesting.

I rode many of the same routes through Coloroado in late September (which seems like yesterday) and can not belive the difference of 2 months with snow, ice, and some of the lakes starting to freeze. Wow! And I was pulling all the layers down to mesh midway through most days, despite the altitude!

I do now have some good ideas for places to hit further west...
 
Thanks for the info. I'll check them out.
 
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