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idling adjustment

Joined
Jan 13, 2013
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Singapore
Can anyone help me where to adjust the idling on a gsx1250 ??? The idling is a bit high on my bike but could not find where to adjust it. Thanks.
 
You can't do it manually, but have to have a dealer use the SDS software. What is it idling at?

I see you have Holeshot Stage 2, so email Dale as well. You may be able to adjust the TFI
 
The engines idle speed is controlled by the ISC (idle speed control) valve on the right side of the throttle body, which is controlled by the ECM.

The piston in the ISC valve is moved in and out over air ports inside the ISC valve which very the supply of air to the engine which controls the engines idle RPM when the main butterflies are closed.

The engine's idle speed is surpassed to be 1200 RPM +/-100 RPM, and as long as it's within this range it's fine. Now you can screw up the engine idle speed if you happen to disconnect the electrical connector from the ISC valve and then turn the ignition on, or if you disconnect the electrical connector from the ISC valve within 5 seconds after the ignition is turned off, as either one of these can cause the stepper motor on the ISC valve to loss it's learned memory position which will effect the engine idle speed which I found out the hard way, and the only way the ISC valve can be reset is with either the SDS tool from Suzuki or the OBD tool from Heal Tech. The SDS and OBD tools can also be used for adjusting the engine idle speed. I performed the ISC valve reset using the Heal Tech OBD tool which was not hard to do at all, and the OBD tool is a heck of a lot cheaper than the Suzuki SDS tool

Now the piston in the ISC valve can get dirty over time causing the piston to stick or not move fully when actuated by the stepper motor in the ISC valve which can effect the engine idle speed, and the piston can be removed and cleaned by first disconnecting the electrical connector on the ISC valve, and then removing the two special tamper proof M4 screws that attach the ISC making sure that you don’t turn the ignition on with the electrical connector disconnected.

The piston on my ISC valve was slightly dirty with some carbon buildup, which I cleaned off using brake cleaner and Q-tips, and I also cleaned out the inside of the aluminum valve body also which also had some buildup on it. Page 1D-15 in the factory service manual briefly describes removing the ISC valve to inspect the piston for carbon buildup, and to clean or replace the valve if necessary.
 
The engines idle speed is controlled by the ISC (idle speed control) valve on the right side of the throttle body, which is controlled by the ECM.

The piston in the ISC valve is moved in and out over air ports inside the ISC valve which very the supply of air to the engine which controls the engines idle RPM when the main butterflies are closed.

The engine's idle speed is surpassed to be 1200 RPM +/-100 RPM, and as long as it's within this range it's fine. Now you can screw up the engine idle speed if you happen to disconnect the electrical connector from the ISC valve and then turn the ignition on, or if you disconnect the electrical connector from the ISC valve within 5 seconds after the ignition is turned off, as either one of these can cause the stepper motor on the ISC valve to loss it's learned memory position which will effect the engine idle speed which I found out the hard way, and the only way the ISC valve can be reset is with either the SDS tool from Suzuki or the OBD tool from Heal Tech. The SDS and OBD tools can also be used for adjusting the engine idle speed. I performed the ISC valve reset using the Heal Tech OBD tool which was not hard to do at all, and the OBD tool is a heck of a lot cheaper than the Suzuki SDS tool

Now the piston in the ISC valve can get dirty over time causing the piston to stick or not move fully when actuated by the steeper motor in the ISC valve which can effect the engine idle speed, and the piston can be removed and cleaned by first disconnecting the electrical connector on the ISC valve, and then removing the two special tamper proof M4 screws that attach the ISC making sure that you don’t turn the ignition on with the electrical connector disconnected.

The piston on my ISC valve was slightly dirty with some carbon buildup, which I cleaned off using brake cleaner and Q-tips, and I also cleaned out the inside of the aluminum valve body also which also had some buildup on it. Page 1D-15 in the factory service manual briefly describes removing the ISC valve to inspect the piston for carbon buildup, and to clean or replace the valve if necessary.

Nice write-up, MM!:zen:
 
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