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Honda nc700x Observations & Questions after 7270 miles

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Hi, I'm wrapping up my last posts for my travel blog here: Moto-Southwest 2013

The trip was a little over 4000 miles and the ncx preformed well for the most part.

Some observations:

Off-road performance was better than I expected. Did some VERY rough washboard, mixed with erosion and large patches of soft powerdery sand. This was going the 32miles in/out of Chaco Canyon, NM. And, I did 34 miles in/out of rough dirt, gravel, mixed with large rocks getting to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon national forest camping. The rocks there thrown up to my boots, but nothing ever hit up at the engine or radiator on any of my off-road excusions at all. Just a little dirt. I did about 15 miles of the Valley of the Gods that's mostly dirt mixed with some gravel. No problem. I have no skid plate or extra guards other than the handguards on my bike. The bike also held up well for a fair amount of abuse. I lost one bolt during one of the worst washboard roads, but that was on my hand guard that I hadn't tightened enough. Nothing came loose on the ncx.

My best gas milage was going from the North Rim down to the valley in the North heading toward Las Vegas. It was going from higher altitude to lower, and mostly downhill... but I went about 65mph and still got 88mpg!!!

My worst milage was going uphill in New Mexico fighting fairly violent crosswinds the entire way, or heading directly into it. The tank only got me 52mpg. Not too bad considering how bad the conditions were. Mostly I got around 74mpg.

The bike was a bit of work on the interstate highways where the trucks were all going around 80mph. If I had headwinds, I just had to resign myself to riding in the slow land. Keeping pace at 75-80 dropped my milage to about 60mpg. I knew the ncx wouldn't be up to high speed interstate travel and avoided interstates when I could, but once I just resigned myself to being in the slow lane... it wasn't as bad as I thought it'd be.

My Alaskan leather butt pad and yoga matt were not enough to combat the seat for long distance. I was good for about 3.5hrs. At 4hrs uncomfortable, and at 5hrs+ having to stop for an extended rest. I tossed the yoga matt layer and bought a cheap stadium air mattress at Walmart for $6 and slipped it under the sheepskin. Worked surprisingly well! It got me to about 5hrs of riding until pain ensued. It's got a leak now, but I definitely got my money out of it.

On the straightaways in the middle of nowhere, I wanted to see how fast I could go fully loaded and how bad it effected the gas milage. I was able to get to 100mph but that was about it. For that tank I varied from 85mph up to a max of 100mph and the gas milage was still 53mpg.

Now for a few questions:

When I first got this bike, I bought it out of state and rode it home. The very first tank, I ran out of gas. I wrote this off to lack of sleep, unfamiliar bike, not paying attention... but I could have sworn it showed 2 bars on the gauge when it ran out and left me pushing it to a gas station. Well, it happened again when I was in Las Vegas. I went to start up the bike and it seemed rough... like it was about to run out of gas, but showed 2 bars. I rode it about a mile or so still showing 2 bars when it ran completely out of gas and I had to push it at night in Las Vegas to a gas station. It was only about half a mile, but not fun in Vegas evening traffic. I'm certain there's something wrong with my gauge and will be taking that too the dealer. But, it's curious that I'd only have the problem on the first tank, then be fine for 6000 miles before doing it again. I've read other's have had the exact same problem and got it fixed at the dealer. Did they replace the digital dash or do something related to the sensors? Or, is there something that had to be reset that I could do myself?

I just spoke with Woods service department on the phone, and I really don't want to go there. Might even prefer the Georgetown shop that was the location of my KLR woes, over going to Woods. This was about 2 weeks ago in Vegas and it's been fine ever since. But, it is a new bike under warranty... so maybe I should get it to a dealer to see what's going on. The guy on the phone at Woods didn't even seem to be listening to me about the fuel gauge. He just kept asking if I bought the bike there and/or had them do the maintenance on it. The first maintenance is basically just an oil/filter change, so I did that myself. He acted like this wasn't kosher and that I should have brought it to them to inspect everything, etc. When I said, "I'm assuming this fuel gauge issue would be covered under warranty" He said, "Well, that depends. Could be your spark plugs, could be any number of things that could be causing all the problems. I replied, "What do the spark plugs have to do with the fuel gauge?? And he replied, "Oh, you're having a problem with your fuel gauge?" Like I said, not keen on going to Woods. The guy obviously wasn't even listening to me and sounded like he was stoned.
 
Some bikes have issues from the factory. If you've done your homework like you indicate, this might be one of those fuel gauge type 'bugs'. I'd run it to the dealer to have them address it and if it's due for a maintenance service, have them stamp the book for that interval. Just to play by the rules so nothing comes back to bite you.....
 
Our car also gets amazing gas mileage up in the New Mexico mountains. I think it's the thin high elevation air effectively reducing the engine's displacement plus the low speed limits and roads that have you climbing a grade so your engine is under enough load to put it in its thermodynamic efficiency sweet spot, then coasting down a grade with your engine's EFI in DFCO mode using nearly zero fuel.
Most auto EFI employs deceleration fuel cutoff (DFCO) during engine overrun, possibly the NC700 does also.
 
...
When I first got this bike, I bought it out of state and rode it home. The very first tank, I ran out of gas. I wrote this off to lack of sleep, unfamiliar bike, not paying attention... but I could have sworn it showed 2 bars on the gauge when it ran out and left me pushing it to a gas station. Well, it happened again when I was in Las Vegas. I went to start up the bike and it seemed rough... like it was about to run out of gas, but showed 2 bars. I rode it about a mile or so still showing 2 bars when it ran completely out of gas and I had to push it at night in Las Vegas to a gas station. ...

Exactly why I don't like idiot lights or idiot gauges!

I'm old school! I like my off-on-reserve switch! :mrgreen: When I feel a sputter, I switch to reserve and head to a gas station! Just have to remember to switch it back to on! Simple and it works!!

I also reset my trip meter every fill up and watch the miles.
 
Well skip, it sounds like you're pretty pleased with the Honda. Glad to hear that, because I remember how nervous you were about the purchase.

Like you, I've always seen higher gas mileage on my EFI vehicles once I get above about 5,000 feet. That includes such highlights as 68mpg from my VStrom earlier this month around Aspen, and once averaging 27mpg with a Chevy Astro while pulling a Coleman trailer across northern Colorado on I-70.

As for the gas issue, it sounds to me like an irregular gauge. Spark plugs? He's gotta be kidding. Plugs can affect the mileage, but that has nothing to do with whether or not your gauge reads accurately and consistently. You might check some websites to see if there's a technical bulletin out on the issue.

Glad you're lovin' the bike.
 
LOVE the bike and it's perfect for my use, ie. mostly riding around town, but holding it's own on a few long distance tours with occasional off-road if I need to get to a campsite. Would buy another one.

About going to Woods for interval service.. I was going to do that, but the phone conversation really put me off. Really sounded like the guy was fishing for ways to rip me off and not fix a clear warranty-covered issue. The current interval is just inspecting stuff including valves and an oil change. The choices I have are Woods and CTPS in Georgetown. Don't really feel good about either.

The gauge issue is something that has only happened twice in 7200 miles, and the last time was two weeks ago, so they're not going to be able to reproduce the problem. Nor, will I really know if they fixed it or not when it happens so infrequently. Not sure what to do. It's really too bad there's not one dealer nearby Austin that I trust. I'm temped to just see if Paul Zabor will just do all the scheduled checks, etc. Not wild about his general friendliness or his high pricing, but at least I don't feel like he'll rip me off. Woods just oozes that paranoia of getting ripped off for some reason.

At the same time, I bought my KLR new and took it to a dealer to pay dealer rates for all the scheduled maintenance, but when it came time for a valid warranty claim, it didn't matter. I still got the shaft. I'm really envious of those who're able to do their own work. I've tried and failed for the most part. Just not my forte I guess.

Or, I could just change the oil/filter... go by the trip-o-meter instead of the gauge, and just ride the bike without worry. I mean, it's a Honda right? Supposed to be pretty reliable and low maintenance.

Has anyone here had a positive experience with Wood's Fun Center in Austin? Ever?
 
Here is my experience with Wood's Fun Center. In 1986 I purchased a leftover '85 Honda XL350R. Unfortunately, it got stolen after 3 weeks. I replaced it with an '86 Honda XL250R because Honda quit making the 350. A year later, while having the carbs adjusted I saw they had another leftover '85 Honda XL350R so we made the trade plus cash. All of these bikes were purchased from Carlos Gonzales. A salesman I trusted. Wood's did all of the maintenance on the 350 while I owned it and it required very little. Just routine oil changes. Until one day while riding on IH35 at full throttle, the engine cut out but I was able to limp the bike home at low RPM's. Apparently, a coil of some sort burnt out and Wood's had to disassemble the engine to repair it which they did. The bike ran fine after that for several years then after about 2 years of very little use I went to change the oil myself and noticed RTV silicone was holding the oil drain bolt on. Huh? As I was tightening the drain bolt with my same torque wrench as always the case cracked and my fresh oil spilled all over my driveway. I called Wood's for an explanation and they told me to bring it in. They attempted to pass this off as abuse and overtightening by me but I argued with them and even had Carlos help me since I had been a repeat customer. They eventually repaired the damage at a reduced labor rate but I feel like I still got screwed since it was clearly their fault as evidenced by the silicone used to try and glue back the damage.

I have heard other stories similar to mine and we all agree things got worse after Wood's moved to the Braker location and switched owners. I only go there now to look at new bikes before haggling somewhere else. Like too many large corporations, they have grown too big for management to watch all of their employees and some of them are obviously incompetent.

My experience with Central Texas Powersports is a little better but I'll reserve that story for another time but will say I trust CTPS more than Wood's.

My 2 cents. :mrgreen:

LOVE the bike and it's perfect for my use, ie. mostly riding around town, but holding it's own on a few long distance tours with occasional off-road if I need to get to a campsite. Would buy another one.

About going to Woods for interval service.. I was going to do that, but the phone conversation really put me off. Really sounded like the guy was fishing for ways to rip me off and not fix a clear warranty-covered issue. The current interval is just inspecting stuff including valves and an oil change. The choices I have are Woods and CTPS in Georgetown. Don't really feel good about either.

The gauge issue is something that has only happened twice in 7200 miles, and the last time was two weeks ago, so they're not going to be able to reproduce the problem. Nor, will I really know if they fixed it or not when it happens so infrequently. Not sure what to do. It's really too bad there's not one dealer nearby Austin that I trust. I'm temped to just see if Paul Zabor will just do all the scheduled checks, etc. Not wild about his general friendliness or his high pricing, but at least I don't feel like he'll rip me off. Woods just oozes that paranoia of getting ripped off for some reason.

At the same time, I bought my KLR new and took it to a dealer to pay dealer rates for all the scheduled maintenance, but when it came time for a valid warranty claim, it didn't matter. I still got the shaft. I'm really envious of those who're able to do their own work. I've tried and failed for the most part. Just not my forte I guess.

Or, I could just change the oil/filter... go by the trip-o-meter instead of the gauge, and just ride the bike without worry. I mean, it's a Honda right? Supposed to be pretty reliable and low maintenance.

Has anyone here had a positive experience with Wood's Fun Center in Austin? Ever?
 
I bought one today. It was a new leftover from 2013, and Honda Kawasaki West on 820 made me a steal of a deal. Straight up. No BS.

Out the box impressions.

The NC700X feels like 72 and 35 mph are all the same to it. I was on 820 riding home and the bike just plain went.

The "low" rev limiter is a non issue. I'm shifting every 10-15 mph, about 3,500 rpm, and that seems fine. It'll launch in first gear and the bike shifts smoother than I do. 6th gear seemed more like a bonus gear than a necessity.

This bike is car quite.

The brakes are adequate. They aren't aggressive. I haven't got full on them. They stop the bike just fine.

The seat is okay. I read reviews about it sliding the rider forward, and I can feel that if I brake hard, but it doesn't have me pitched forward. There's room to move back and forth.

Footing is good. My feet and legs feel fine on the pegs and I can work the controls. At 5'7", maybe 8" in boots, I can get most of both feet on the street when I stop without leaning the bike or sliding my butt over.

The bike feels light. At 472 pounds, it is. I think it will corner well, once I get used to sitting up so tall. It's a different feel than my Suzuki C50 Boulevard. Sitting up high is kind of nice, and kind of weird at the same time.

I tried to fit two different helmets in the frunk. Neither really fit, not without forcing them. Oh well. It's still a nice storage feature and the bike came with a simple helmet cable. The frunk does have a little glove box in it to hold paper work. That's neat. The Honda paniers and top box offer way more storage than I ever had with soft throw over bags.

The tool kit is a lame joke. It's the helmet cable, a cheap fuse puller and a screw driver. My Leatherman is a better tool kit than this. I'll be building my own.

Overall, I like it and think I will like it more and more as I keep riding. That's my critical opinion.

My pants seat opinion is, red squirrel! Man, I bet this thing with flick and get just like a red squirrel once I learn it.
 
I bought one today. It was a new leftover from 2013, and Honda Kawasaki West on 820 made me a steal of a deal. Straight up. No BS.

...

The tool kit is a lame joke. It's the helmet cable, a cheap fuse puller and a screw driver. My Leatherman is a better tool kit than this. I'll be building my own.

...

You mean they shorted you the foam pad?
 
The tool kit is a lame joke. It's the helmet cable, a cheap fuse puller and a screw driver. My Leatherman is a better tool kit than this. I'll be building my own.

I guess this bike is so car like that it needs only a typical car tool kit. A lot of "bikers" nowadays fix flats and other problems on the road with a cell phone.
 
Memory foam, egg crate or that orange foam that always smells funny?
 
First tank impressions.

All the way up to 82 mph (whoa! speed demon!) feels smooth as silk. The bike doesn't feel taxed. There's almost no vibration in the handlebars.

I hit the rev limiter on purpose in third gear. It's not the "sudden and dramatic- bike loses all power and is about to stall- ohmyGodwe'reallgoingtodie" feeling described in some write-ups. It gives a warning. Ever hit the ignition while the engine is running? Yeah, me neither, but that's what it sounds like.

Shifting is something I'll have to improve on. It seems to matter more on this bike for quick acceleration when it's already underway, and not as much in surface street traffic. It seems happier to tool around at low rpm in a higher gear than my C50 did. Neither are high revving or fast bikes by sport bike standards.

The brakes are better than I first thought now that I'm getting used to the bike.

The seat and riding position are quite nice. The pillion seat isn't too bad, either. I was driving down the street sitting on it on my way home today.

Turns and curves... I'm working up my nerve. The bike does fine. It's just so high, and I'm seated more up right, and I feel like I'm more first person. I don't see as much of the bike in front of me as I'm used to and the headlight doesn't turn with the handlebars. My turning and curving is a bit slower and wider right now.

With a mix of surface, highway and interstate, and all three cases on, I got 57 mpg.

One thing that bothers me, and other NCX owners say it goes away after a few tanks, it drops to like 900 rpm at idle and stalled thrice at a red light. If that doesn't quit soon, I'll be taking in for warranty work. This is not a quirk I'm willing to tolerate.
 
Second tank impression. No, this won't be an every tank deal. That'd get silly here quick.

It hasn't stalled at low idle since I fueled up, and I fueled up at the same gas station the dealer uses. It just worked out I needed gas while picking up the top case keys. Idle rpm is 1,100 now. No more dropping to 900. Good.

Fuel mileage this tank was 60 mpg. Nice.

The roads were wet this morning. My completely exposed radiator now has a dirt stripe right up the center. I'm thinking fender extender (mud flap) and maybe a radiator guard. I don't want to cover up too much of the radiator, though.

I'm learning to shift and brake the bike better. It has a smoothness when treated right. Still going easy on the turns. Getting cocky is how I threw the last one on the street.

This ain't a rocket, and I ain't an astronaut, but when I wanted to leave the car who insisted on riding on my left front corner, and then pass the rolling road block twins after that, the bike had no problem granting my request.

The bike feels like it doesn't mind potholes and bumps too much, but it does track a little on tar snakes.

Am I crazy (separate question) or can I hear the chain? Can yall hear your chain? It's a smooth and steady ... chain noise.

Still liking the seat and foot position, but I'm hyper conscious about where my feet are on the pegs. Floor boards spoiled me.

All in all, I'm really digging this bike.
 
Skip. send Honda America a letter about your issue and the resulting conversation with Wooods. Paper letters have so much more sway than e-mail. I put my money on them getting your issue fixed right and quickly.
 
Bines, will you be going to the Pie Run close to Mineral Wells this month? If so, I'd enjoy ogling the NC.
 
How difficult is it to adjust the valves on the NC?
Looks like you might have to remove the radiator and everything, just to open the valve cover.

2012-honda-nc700x-exposed-chassis.jpg
 
I haven't hit the miles yet, but did watch a few YouTubes. Yep, radiator has to be unhooked and moved out the way. Take the valve cover off and the valves are screw and nut. No shims. Looks fairly easy. I may have the dealer do the first one just for the piece of mind of a professional checkup. I dunno. We'll see. It's a few hundred bucks for the full service package.
 
Just stopping in tonight to say (brag a little) that me and the NCX shod in Metzler Roadtecs traversed from the D to the FW in this thunderstorm tonight. The bike does quite well in the wet. :D
 
How difficult is it to adjust the valves on the NC?
Looks like you might have to remove the radiator and everything, just to open the valve cover.

It's really, stupidly simple. I'm doing my 3rd check this morning, it should take about 2 hours. Only thing I can imagine being easier would be a BMW boxer with the heads sticking out asking for it.

Here's a video my buddy shot while I checked Skip's valves:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWUCFoz01tk"]Honda NC700X Valve Adjustment Procedure, Step by Step - YouTube[/ame]

Yes, radiator has to come out, but that's it for removing things and takes all of 5 minutes. On my Bandit (1250) you would spend an hour just getting to the valve cover -- removing the tank, side fairings for room, and a mile of plumbing nested on top of it. And then you had the joy of trying to work with zero room.... On the NC, once you get the radiator and valve cover off you've got all the room in the world to work which is nice.

IMAG0205.jpg


As mentioned, screw and locknut, so no shims or pulling cams. I'm at ~40k miles now and doubt my valves have moved since last time. The first check I nudged a couple to the center of spec, but they don't seem to move per my experience and the NC forum reports.

Been a good little workhorse :rider:

trey
 
Nice pic. Thanks.

What all, aside from valves, are yall looking at while you're in there?

I rode from nearly Kaufman to FW after tonight's storm. Still a bit of drizzle when I left a friend's house. The highways were still plenty wet. Granted, I'm very conservative on wet roads, and I'm not sure how much is experience, confidence, skill, tires or bike, but I'm really impressed with this bike in the rain and on rain soaked roads. It just does it.
 
I'd check the torque on the head bolts and cam caps at least once and visualize the the face of the cam lobes if possible. The early Bandits were infamous for pitting and galling of the cam lobe face. Suzuki claimed it was normal wear.
 
I'd check the torque on the head bolts and cam caps at least once and visualize the the face of the cam lobes if possible. The early Bandits were infamous for pitting and galling of the cam lobe face. Suzuki claimed it was normal wear.

I think that since the NC700 was designed to operate at automotive power outputs and rpm, there's no need for super heavy valve springs and thus it should be much kinder to camshafts.
There are consequences to our passion for racing engine power outputs and rpms.
 
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