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Tazman2

Tazman2

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So I'm not too happy with my current setup its too stiff especially over big bumps it chatters REAL bad. I think I have too much oil in the forks but figured I'd see what others are using before I tear it apart again! Please follow this simple template if possible thanks for the help guys! ;-)

Your weight / Spring kg / oil brand and weight / oil height / spacer length / stock or not valving / and whatever else you think is important here. Thanks again! :rider:
 
190 lbs / .95s / Spectre 5w synthetic / 110mm / 5 inches / stock valving ;)
 
I just had mine done. I am using the FRSP S3732 110 (1.1Kg/mm) But I'm 6'3 260 with gear on, or about 18.5-stone! So with that in mind,

260 lbs / 1.1 / Motorex 5w synthetic / Unknown level / 4.75 inches / Race Tech Gold valve kit FMG S2040

And I am loving it! The front is stout but not hard, and no more of that diving under hard braking. And as time goes on it will settle in and get even smoother. I think the re-valving is a key piece to the puzzle here.
 
Had my springs made to exact length 1.1 kg mm tried 5wt putoline now on 7,5 weight putoline 110 kg in weight but mainly travel 2 up loaded, stock valves 125mm air gap
 
Different bike but some info from the peanut gallery none the less,I put .50 front springs in my DR650,the front seemed harsh/stiff for a while,took some time but the springs broke in and now they seem just right.

But if your oil level is too high,that can make it harsh also.
Little known trick would be to suck some oil out the top with a suction tube of some sort,measure before and after and go a little bit at a time.

On the Gold Valve in the shock on the same bike,my suspension guy re-valved it softer twice,lotta work but its really pretty good now for a DR650.
Stock race tech valving felt like it was set up for supercross.
 
Springs have over 5k miles on them so pretty sure they are done breaking in! ;) And yes I tried sucking some oil out but problem is you have no idea how much in mms really your sucking out and can over do it, etc. I figure once the temps drop to a comfy 60-65 outside and its not stuffy and humid in the garage I'll get it done before winter with exact mm from the top so ie why I'm trying to get some #s now and then make a decision how much to take out, etc. and then test before it starts snowing! lol
 
My 2c.

Experiments with the standard forks resulted in the following setup:
Racetech (Eibach actually) 1.1 kg/mm
Racetech G2R compression valves
Modified rebound stack
Silkolene 5 wt fork oil
This is for a 190lb (no gear) rider.

My observations are that ex-factory Suzuki ships these bikes with soft fork springs and a lot of compression damping to compensate. This results in a great setup for interstates at the expense of two-laner performance.

So, to correct this you need to modify the valving because if you just change to a lighter grade of fork oil you will have insufficient rebound damping and the bike will try to bounce you off the road. Conversely, if you use a heavier oil to get the rebound right, then you will have way too much compression damping (especially with the heavier springs) and the front will feel harsh and deflect off bumps.

If you are on a budget, then you can save $$$ by having your local suspension shop modify the stock valves.

For me, the 1.1’s were a little on the heavy side and I would probably shoot for the 1.05’s (if they exist). ATM have 10Nm/mm springs (so approx. 1.0Nm/mm) and these are a little soft for track work.

Cheers
 
Seems like my front is getting better and better as I put the miles on. It was a bit stout at first, but I'm loving it now. Now I have to something with the shock because it can't keep up with the new front and it's getting very annoying! I've had to up the pre-load to 6 (7 is max) and have been playing with the damping adjuster to try and find a balance. It's OK now but no doubt a rear shock will be going in soon.

Point here is, the front does settle in with time. But my job is still pretty new; only about 2,000 miles or so since it was done.
 

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No offense Taz, but asking anyone what is the best fork spring to use is like askling whats the best type of women to ride, as everyone going to have a differant opinion on both. :lol2:
 
MetrickMetal said:
No offense Taz, but asking anyone what is the best fork spring to use is like askling whats the best type of women to ride, as everyone going to have a differant opinion on both. :lol2:
Click to expand...

I agree! At a corrected over 70K Miles. Still stock on both suspension units. Course , to get my 1.6 or so inches of sag in the front, I have the preloads about cranked all the way down. Everything is getting weak along with the rider as they age. ;-)
 
Tazman2 said:
If you have the $$$ get the Holeshot shock if not get a Busa! :D
Click to expand...

Taz, there are 2 shocks on my list, and the Hole Shot is one of them. The other is the Nitron NTR Sport. Both of these look to be beautiful units that are within my budget. An Ohlin's is like 1300 bucks. The heck with that!

I don't think I want to go 'Busa, even though I have heard that 2007 and up will basically go right on with very little modification. I don't want to have to modify anything to make a critical part fit. The other 2 are direct bolt-ons and will deliver the improved performance I seek.
 
190# / std Cogent springs from Holeshot / 5 wt honda fork oil ( cheap ) / 125 mm air gap / 2.9" spacer / Gold valves (#33 set-up)/ fork brace. I am down to 170#'s now but I am topped out on the adjuster.
 
RaptorFA said:
I don't think I want to go 'Busa, even though I have heard that 2007 and up will basically go right on with very little modification. I don't want to have to modify anything to make a critical part fit. The other 2 are direct bolt-ons and will deliver the improved performance I seek.
Click to expand...

Agreed but I didn't have $600 right now and I'm trying to plan a move down south as well soooooo budget is key for fixes for me! :rofl:
 
achesley said:
I agree! At a corrected over 70K Miles. Still stock on both suspension units. Course , to get my 1.6 or so inches of sag in the front, I have the preloads about cranked all the way down. Everything is getting weak along with the rider as they age. ;-)
Click to expand...
Yup,Ive ridden many streetbikes with way worse stock suspension then my 08 Bandit.

Its sort of a mildly happy medium,rides smooth on the slab and isnt horriffic on real bumpy backroads,dives a little on brakes in corners but smoother braking helps with that. I weigh 180 so maybe not taxing it as much as those who ride 2 up or have a more mature build.

I WILL have to look for a seat,Ive leveled the stocker and I run an Alaska Leather butt pad but its not great.
If someone has a sargent or Corbin sitting please ring me up.
 
achesley said:
I agree! At a corrected over 70K Miles. Still stock on both suspension units. Course , to get my 1.6 or so inches of sag in the front, I have the preloads about cranked all the way down. Everything is getting weak along with the rider as they age. ;-)
Click to expand...

You know what they say, everything starts sagging with age. :lol2:
 
Try this ---- Air gap 200 mm . Yes I know ,it sounds a lot but it will fix that harsh
problem .Your set up will be as I NOW run , I had the same as you with the
same problem .
 
Pacodog said:
190# ... I am down to 170#'s now but I am topped out on the adjuster.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by 190# Pacodog? I'm guessing it's a spring rate but is 190 a Cogent part No or an actual spring rate - and if 190 is a spring rate what are the units?

Thanks :thumb:
 
Tasi said:
Try this ---- Air gap 200 mm . Yes I know ,it sounds a lot but it will fix that harsh
problem .Your set up will be as I NOW run , I had the same as you with the
same problem .
Click to expand...

Are you running the same springs/spacers/oil weight as me or?

Yogi 1250 said:
What do you mean by 190# Pacodog? I'm guessing it's a spring rate but is 190 a Cogent part No or an actual spring rate - and if 190 is a spring rate what are the units?

Thanks :thumb:
Click to expand...

#'s = lbs as in his weight! :)
 
Yes ,5 in spacer ,.95 spring, i'm 100 kg - in drag .Gives me 30-35mm mm sag with rider. racetech spring . 5 wt oil . NO valves .
Iwas running 175 mm air gap but was not using enough travel and still a bit solid .(rough)
Tried 200mm air gap ,rode same rode ,and was much better .
I tied a cable tie around fork and am now using 85 % of travel solo no gear .
Loaded I expect that to go to 90 % so that about right (i'm no expert though )
My bikes naked so your's may vary slightly but its no cost, and reversible . 180mm air gap might be better for you to allow for the screen ,panniers , center stand which I don't have . Remember,compressed, spring out .
Seems strange other can run 10 wt oil and 110 air gap ,perhaps they are giants .

Hang on ,I just saw you are running 110 mm air gap .I think we are on to fixing the problem .
Good luck ,remember i'm no expert but I know what getting jarred through the bars is . Annoying !
 
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