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Baja's General Commits n Questions

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Baja's General Commits - new bag,pad,rack

2002 DR650 SE

Does anyone have an opinion on Procycle's high output stator for the DR650 and their Heavy duty replacement voltage regulator. No specs given to really come up with an informed opinion.

Having a hard time finding a replacement starter.
Mine locked up/quit working.
At this time do not know if bushing locked it up, armature shorted, or brushing just shorted it out.

Another thing about that starter, elec diag show a wire fuse, but it is acting like a thermal fuse with auto reset. When push start switch, solenoid engages, lights go out and then about one minute later lights come back on. No bare/chaffed wires from battery->solenoid->starter.

I'll get it off and have a look see. If just brushes and armature is ok, then just rebuild and replace back plate with the one that has bearing in it.

One place I did find one, feedback for them turned me off.
 
Last edited:
Bad battery or bad battery connection or connection at the starter solenoid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
 
Bad battery or bad battery connection or connection at the starter solenoid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

I can rule out bad connections.
Battery, will take to auto parts and load test tomorrow.
Just from past experience with autos it sure seems like the amateur has shorted, or brushes disintegrated and causing a short.
 
I have got a broke spoke on the rear wheel.

Don't like being quoted a price of $60.00 an hour to replace all.
No idea how they would count that time.
I can only assume that there is not a flat rate manual for bikes.

As for just replacing that one, how 'safe' is that?

Watched a video on replacing them, seemed easy enough.
But still.....

Any suggestions?
 
I have got a broke spoke on the rear wheel.

Don't like being quoted a price of $60.00 an hour to replace all.
No idea how they would count that time.
I can only assume that there is not a flat rate manual for bikes.

As for just replacing that one, how 'safe' is that?

Watched a video on replacing them, seemed easy enough.
But still.....

Any suggestions?


At that price I would replace the one myself. It has been a real long time since I have done this but it was pretty easy back then. I am old now and the easiest thing for me to do is fall asleep at night.:lol2:

I bet there is a expert on spoke wheels who will chime in and offer better advice than me. KP
 
Replacing just one is fine, but check the rest for tightness and check to make sure the rest of the nipples aren't seized to the spokes. If they are seized you may as well cut them out with a grinder and replace them all.

Spokes are easy enough to do, just take your time and it will go smoothly.
 
Replacing just one is fine, but check the rest for tightness and check to make sure the rest of the nipples aren't seized to the spokes. If they are seized you may as well cut them out with a grinder and replace them all.

Spokes are easy enough to do, just take your time and it will go smoothly.

Thanks RollingJ, I will try the one spoke approach first, checking the others for being seized first.
------------------

Anyone have comments on the pros/cons of engine crash bars?

http://www.dirtracks.com/1996-2013-Suzuki-DR650-Engine-Crash-Bar-0003.htm

I dropped my bike and if I had of been caught under it, I could not have gotten it off of my leg if it had been caught under the bike.
Running with soft saddles I can see where that might help, but not when running without them.

Seems for every pound I get rid of, I put 5 more on.
 
2002 DR650 SE

Does anyone have an opinion on Procycle's high output stator for the DR650 and their Heavy duty replacement voltage regulator. No specs given to really come up with an informed opinion.
I know of two DR650SE's that have had them installed in Canada and are currently in Columbia, with about 8 months of use planed before they end up back home in Canada.. No issues so far, and they are working as advertised.

Having a hard time finding a replacement starter

I have a working used used, if your interested in it, shoot me a PM
 
I have got a broke spoke on the rear wheel.

Don't like being quoted a price of $60.00 an hour to replace all.
No idea how they would count that time.
I can only assume that there is not a flat rate manual for bikes.

As for just replacing that one, how 'safe' is that?

Watched a video on replacing them, seemed easy enough.
But still.....

Any suggestions?

An hour labor is about right if the wheel is off the bike and brought in, maybe 1.5 hours at most.

$60 an hour is cheap, no full sized shop, with OEM support is that low that I have seen in a long time.. $60 is about right for a non branded privet shop.

Remove wheel, dismount tire, replace spoke, remount tire, balance, re install wheel.

Yes there are labor guides for most modern motorcycles.. Though often times there is not a specific time for a repair the OEM does not do.. Say, servicing a rear shock..The shock is a service replacement item in most cases.. so there is no labor rate for replacing the seal.
 
I can bring the starter to the Hearne meet and greet and eat if you need me to Baja.
 
An hour labor is about right if the wheel is off the bike and brought in, maybe 1.5 hours at most.

$60 an hour is cheap, no full sized shop, with OEM support is that low that I have seen in a long time.. $60 is about right for a non branded privet shop.

Remove wheel, dismount tire, replace spoke, remount tire, balance, re install wheel.

Yes there are labor guides for most modern motorcycles.. Though often times there is not a specific time for a repair the OEM does not do.. Say, servicing a rear shock..The shock is a service replacement item in most cases.. so there is no labor rate for replacing the seal.

The thing about it, which I miss worded up there, was that they could not tell me how many hours it was going to take.
 
The thing about it, which I miss worded up there, was that they could not tell me how many hours it was going to take.

Right, understood.. Because that is not a Labor service that will be found in the Labor guide. So they should have made an est in labor hours by adding up the "knowns" wheel removal, tire removal then using their experience added an est average time for the "Unknown" //replacement of the single spoke. They would have quoted high, and planned on coming in lower for the final invoice.

Or as commonly done on jobs with no labor guide rate or not commonly done at that shop, tell you the hourly labor rate and that it will be at least XX hours,,, and they will contact you if you need to authorize more.

End of the day.... ride to my house, from most anywhere in Texas with bike and replacement spoke in hand... and I'll send you home with dirty hands, a busted knuckle of three, and a replaced spoke for less in gas money than what you'll pay a shop to do it. Many others here could hep you replace it as well.
 
It may be more simple than that. You may not have to remove the wheel.

I had a spoke break on my rear wheel a year or so ago. The nipple was still in the wheel, so I pulled the spoke out of the hub, unscrewed the stub of a spoke from the nipple, and slipped in a new spoke. Easy peasy.

I had another spoke break a month or two ago, and I decided to ride on it anyway. Here's how the day ended after 220 miles of gravel.

IMG_7011.jpg
 
It may be more simple than that. You may not have to remove the wheel.

I had a spoke break on my rear wheel a year or so ago. The nipple was still in the wheel, so I pulled the spoke out of the hub, unscrewed the stub of a spoke from the nipple, and slipped in a new spoke. Easy peasy.

I had another spoke break a month or two ago, and I decided to ride on it anyway. Here's how the day ended after 220 miles of gravel.

IMG_7011.jpg

Ok. Nipples is still there. Will check what shape it is in.

Have to pull wheels to replace bearings with double sealed.
So will have look see.

Thanks for that piece of news RollingJ
 
I have not read too many posts that actually state that the back plate of the starter with bushing needs to be replaced with a bearing containing plate.

so do I really need to replace it?
Does it actually cause more starter trouble using the OEM plate?
 
I gotta something in the car for you. EM was nice enough to bring it by my work. See you Sunday. KP
 
Thank you both EM and KP.

If this one place will ever send an answer to my question I put to them, I can get almost all parts on order and installed by end of next week. At least enough for me to start putting some miles on the bike exploring.
 
I have yet to find a bash plate without the side fins.
Were the side fins cut off of one of them to make room to fit this crash bar?

http://www.dirtracks.com/1996-2013-Suzuki-DR650-Engine-Crash-Bar-0003.htm

Sent a web msg early this morn to them but have not heard back yet.
Even with this statement they have posted, I tend to question it;
"Works with most aftermarket skid-plates". Think it should read 'few', or even 'modified'.

Was going to order both the racks and crash bar, but when it takes two days for an answer from a web based seller.....
 
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