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Stuck in a Mexican town with more problems...

Joined
Jun 27, 2005
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Location
Austin, Texas
I was doing my best to try and make it home in time for my wife's birthday and left early this morning from the desert. A cold front moved in and it was about 35F, but I rode anyway. About 30 miles out of the little town my tire blew out. I tried to put air in it but the tube was shredded. So, I road about 10 miles very slow on the flat tire, but it detroyed the inside of the tire. There was a Mexican man in the next town in an electric wheelchair who tooled around the town looking for a tire that would work without luck. I was pretty surreal while watching a parapelegic crawling around in the dirt trying to repair my tire, etc. (in spite of everything... it was so surreal I had to take a photo for the site) ;-)

He then tried his best to repair the tire with an old piece of tire tubing and a spare tube I carried with me. He said it was dangerous to ride on it, but it might get me to Saltillo where I might find a tire that would fit.

I road slow for about 45 miles when it blew out again and I had to ride on it flat for another couple of miles until I found this little shack shop that repairs car tires along the highway between Matehuala and Saltillo. They got the tire off and said it couldn't be fixed, and then went back to drinking their beers. It was REALLY in the middle of nowhere, no rooms, nothing. I asked if one of them might help me, so one of the drunks said he'd take me to Matehuala for $60. I told him if he would take me and the bike to Matehuala in his pickup, drop the bike off at a shop, and me at a hotel, that I would give him $50. He said $55 and I said "done". I don't know why I was negotiating with him. He knew I was basically screwed and would have to pay whatever he asked.

So, we found a shop and the guy thinks he can either repair the tire (not my preference since I still have 700 miles to go) or find a used one, or I might have to buy a new one (which is about 3 times what they cost in the States).

Anyhow, I obviously won't make it home by the 13th. At the moment, it just keeps getting worse. Keep in mind I still have the other electrical problems too, and my chain keeps falling off because it's stretched.

In any case, I do plan on getting home one way or another. If this guy can fix the tire tomorrow (can't do it today because it's Sunday and none of the tire shops are open)... I should be back by the 14th.. if nothing else goes wrong.

Skip
 
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Skip, When I am having trouble with the chain being too stretched, I've removed a link or two (easier to cut it shorter twice than longer once!) and ridden it for over a thousand miles before being able to replace it.:eek2:
 
Wow, Skip, this really is an adventure, isn't it?

Good luck finding parts and decent prices...
 
Well, after I dropped off the bike and got a room... the drunk Mexican dude had to drive me to the city so I could get enough cash to pay him. And on the way I saw TWO KLR650s in town.. so I'm hoping I can at least find a used one. New tires here are much more expensive, but I really don't want to ride the last stretch on a patch tube (was ripped during the second blowout) OR, some home made epoxy to repair the inside of the tire. All along one side on the inside it looked like radial spaghetti.
 
Valker said:
Skip, When I am having trouble with the chain being too stretched, I've removed a link or two (easier to cut it shorter twice than longer once!) and ridden it for over a thousand miles before being able to replace it.:eek2:

I road the bike from the desert floor up into the mountains along a VERY rough and rocky passage. I think this is where the tire or tube got damaged. When I left this morning is was low, but I though I could make the 35 miles to the next town where I could get it repaired and some air. The chain was falling off yesterday climbing the mountain, but only when I stood on the pegs. With all my gear loaded, and my weight, and moving the chain back to the last notch.. I think it will make it the last 750 miles or so.

Nothing I can do about it until the morning... so I suppose it's once again time to find myself a couple shots of tequila. ;-)
 
Actually, I have been having a pretty great time.. just the day before yesterday I ate some peyote in the desert and watched the moon rise at the same time watching one of the most spectacular sunsets I've ever seen. Then hiked back to the little campo where there was an Italian dude playing guitar and sounding almost as good as Dylan. There were two girls from Spain twirling around those chains with fire on the end while he played. It was an absolutely amazing day. Yesterday was pretty nice too.. just today sux.

also.. I DID take a spare front and rear tube. When it blew I was litterally in the middle of nowhere.. desert road... nothing to prop the bike up with. I scrounged around for rocks or something, to prop it up while I tried to change the tube myself before riding on it. I just didn't know the next town was 10 miles away. I though maybe just a couple kilos going slow wouldn't damage the tire... but 10 miles at 10 miles an hour really messed it up.

The new tube has a small rip in it now after the second blow on the highway, but they say they can repair it. I also have a front tube if that will work in the rear.

All in all, I guess I should just thank my lucky stars it didn't blow at 95mph (as I WAS in a hurry to make my wife's birthday). And, I'm glad I found someone willing to take me to the city to get it fixed. The stretch between Saltillo and Matehuala is around 130 miles of not much of anything. I was really worried I would have to spend the night out there with the recent cold front and all.

So all in all, I guess I could spin this TOO into a lucky day. Or is that a stretch?
 
Some users on another board doubted my authenticity and stories because I was able to find internet access. They also went on about how dangerous Mexico and it's people are, etc.

This was my response:

more later cuz I'm tired..

Couldn't fix the tire and had to buy a new street tire since that was all that was available.. Street tire rides quite nice.. a DURO.

To those [expletive removed] who seem to be doubting my authenticity based on my ability to post.... I was posting from the city of Matehuala about 2 hours from where I stayed in the desert. For those who find it hard to believe you can get internet access in the middle of nowhere.. guess you haven't traveled much. I remember getting access in the old city of Varanasi, India where they had about 8 old PCs networked together and powered by car batteries and all sharing one dial-up connection. Other countries where most people don't have their own phones use the internet almost exclusively for communication. In Mexico it is possible to find a small internet cafe in the middle of nowhere. If you don't believe my stories... well I have the photos to prove it. Not that I really give a rat's [expletive removed] whether you believe me or not.

As for Mexicans... I have traveled in Mexico for 15 years and have traveled in 15 different countries. This was only the second time on a bike. And, I have found most Mexicans to be among the most caring and helpful folks I have encountered in ANY country I have been in. I would rank the U.S. close to the bottom with regard to average people being willing to help a foreign stranger. Yes, there are bad people everywhere... and I too avoid the police in Mexico like the plague. Especially near Mexico city where they roam around stalking people to rob. The Mexicans have no respect for the police either, but this doesn't make the whole country and its wonderful people a dangerous place to travel.

Did you read my post? How often will you find a poor parapelegic in a beat up old electric wheel chair willing to crawl around in the dirt to change your tire.. and when it can't be fixed.... ride around the village for 2 hrs in the sun in his wheelchair with your shredded tire in his lap trying to find one that will work... and when he can't... he does the best repair job he can to hopefully get you far enough down the road to find a tire... and when he's done... he only asks for the normal price of 30pesos for his services (the normal price just to patch a tube in Mexico)?... how often in the U.S. will you find someone who has sooooo little, sooooo willing to help a stranded stranger?

Last night after I crossed the border it got pretty cold so I spent the night in Cotulla, Texas (a small town). Got a cheap room and then asked if there was a bar nearby to get a drink. The man at the hotel said I'd be shot or stabbed if I went to one of the Mexican bars, but that there was one bar for "anglos" where I'd be safe. I told him I'd just come from Mexico and didn't understand his attitude. He said the Mexicans here are different, you won't get out one of the Mexican bars alive being an anglo and a stranger.

So, I went to the one "anglo" bar and there was one old man running it there. No one else. I asked him where the Mexican bars were and he said the same thing... that there was something wrong with "those people" and they'd just as soon shoot me as look at me. And that if I went into one of "those" bars I'd have to fight my way out.

I went anyway. I walked in and the people stopped talking and looked at me. I ordered a Mexican beer in Spanish, but they only had domestics. I then lit up a Mexican cigarette and within 5 minutes one of the Mexicans bought me another beer. I then put quarters on the pool table and challenged the winner to play for $5. He said he didn't play for money, but we could play for beers. I won 2 games and he won one. Then another Mexican man left and brought back food for everyone in the bar and insisted I stay and eat with them.

Gee wiz folks, I just can't remember the last time I was treated so well in an American bar. Guess I must just be lucky I didn't get shot or something. Wink

One of the Mexicans asked me how I could travel in Mexico alone when its so dangerous. I told him, "You know those old Texas men who were so ignorant in telling me I'd be shot if I came into your bar?... well the same ignorance exists regarding Mexico. And, I'm sort of glad this ignorance exists to some extent.. because it keeps arrogant gringos out of the country I love."
 
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Hey, Skip, I believe your writings, but then, I believe the person who told me the word 'gullible' wasn't in the dictionary. ;-)

Your tale, above, reminds me of something I read in the quite wonderful One Man Caravan, by Robert Fulton (who went round the world on a one-off motorcycle in the early 1930's :hail:). He talked about being in one village, being asked where he was headed, mentioning the next village, and being told, "you do not want to go there, they are killers and thieves." "Have you ever been there," Fulton asked. "Oh, no," they replied.

Some things never change.

Does this mean you're home safely, and making things up with the wife? :-)
 
buck000 said:
Hey, Skip, I
Your tale, above, reminds me of something I read in the quite wonderful One Man Caravan, by Robert Fulton (who went round the world on a one-off motorcycle in the early 1930's :hail:). He talked about being in one village, being asked where he was headed, mentioning the next village, and being told, "you do not want to go there, they are killers and thieves." "Have you ever been there," Fulton asked. "Oh, no," they replied.

Some things never change.

Does this mean you're home safely, and making things up with the wife? :-)
That's a great book and story (movie also), but ti wasn't a 'one off' bike. It was a Douglass if I remember right....I'l have to dig out the book and check. He basically did the ride on a dare. He has a list of inventions a mile long-fascinating guy who just passed away in the past couple of years.:sun:
 
That's unfortunate.

Treat people with respect and they almost always return the favor whether they are from Mexico, Oklahoma or (god forbid) Louisiana.

I'm glad to see you are almost home despite your mechanical challenges.
 
Skip, don't worry too much about those jealous morons. Most of them probably have a hard time getting out of their own city.
 
I'd love to ride mexico, I believe people are basically good all over the world, there's not a lot of difference and everyplace has their few morons.

I don't because I don't speak enough spanish to get by and I don't really think travelling around not able to talk with locals would be much fun for me.
 
I believe you, Skip - provided the peyote hasn't colored your recollections too much. ;-) Given the context, it doesn't matter much anyway. Fact or fiction, they're good stories well told.
 
I have enjoyed your reports; would like to someday do a ride down into Mexico, even if it is just to Copper Canyon or down Baja. I have even been inspired to start learning more of the Spanish language.... (my high school Spanish has been for the most part forgotten....)

Don
 
I like your stories. More importantly though, as a fellow photographer, I'm inspired by your photos.:clap:
 
Skip,

What makes it so hard to get delivery? Why not get Dennis Kirk or a friend to Fedex overnight your parts to Mexico? God knows that NAFTA trucks full of Levis jeans come this way every day. Is there some some law against it? Surely one of the overnight delivery folks get to small town Mexico.

Mike
________
GRAPE APE MARIJUANA STRAIN
 
.........I went anyway. I walked in and the people stopped talking and looked at me. I ordered a Mexican beer in Spanish, but they only had domestics. I then lit up a Mexican cigarette and within 5 minutes one of the Mexicans bought me another beer. I then put quarters on the pool table and challenged the winner to play for $5. He said he didn't play for money, but we could play for beers. I won 2 games and he won one. Then another Mexican man left and brought back food for everyone in the bar and insisted I stay and eat with them.

Gee wiz folks, I just can't remember the last time I was treated so well in an American bar. Guess I must just be lucky I didn't get shot or something. Wink

One of the Mexicans asked me how I could travel in Mexico alone when its so dangerous. I told him, "You know those old Texas men who were so ignorant in telling me I'd be shot if I came into your bar?... well the same ignorance exists regarding Mexico. And, I'm sort of glad this ignorance exists to some extent.. because it keeps arrogant gringos out of the country I love."......

**********************************************************

OK now Skip, if you are ever near Houston and need a cold beer, tools or some help with your motorcycle, you can stop by my place.....it isn't a bar but, the bed in the garage is comfortable and you can watch all the TV you want while wrenching on your busted motorcycle. I have some stories about being stranded on my motorcycle in Arizona in mid-winter....I won't bore you with them here but, if you stop by, we can swap stories........Good luck.

************************************
OK, OK now, continue on......I'm listening................what happened next?
 
dennis said:
I want to go to Zihuatanejo one day soon and look up Andy Dufresne.....

Wanna go with?

When? I know a place that's only about 100 pesos a night with a secure place to park the bikes at night in Zihua. I was tentatively thinking of going back down around May... but this time cross at Del Rio, pass by the Zona de Silencio in Durango.. ride the Durango pass, cross over to Copper Canyon.. then down to the coast passing Zihua. I would likely continue down into Oaxaca, cross over the mountains toward Chiapas, drop down into Guatemala, ride across passing through Belize into the Yucatan.. then head back up the middle.
 
OK...OK, I give up...that sounds a little too adventurous for an old guy like me and, I'll be in Bavaria and Northern France in May...but, if you do go, take some tools and a spare tire or two......

.....and, keep up the road reports...we love 'em.
 
dennis said:
OK...OK, I give up...that sounds a little too adventurous for an old guy like me and, I'll be in Bavaria and Northern France in May...but, if you do go, take some tools and a spare tire or two......

.....and, keep up the road reports...we love 'em.

older than me? I'm 42. And you wouldn't have to ride all of it.. you could head back after Zihua. And yes, I'm makin a list... one long tire tool to add to my two short ones. A center stand. Spare tubes.. And a portable compressor. ;-)
 
:tab Just be careful with those long tools. It is easy to get carried away with that long lever arm and damage a tire bead because you don't realize how much force you are generating. Remember, if you are having to strain, you are doing something wrong and you need to stop, take a breath, and rethink your method.
 
That's funny!
The first thing I did with my nice third long tire iron was thrash the tube!
HHHAAAAAARRRR!!!!
Now Ya tell me Scott!
Since then, I've payed attention and really enjoy havin the third iron.
Hey Skip!
How many riders can Ya take next time?
****!
I've even got a pump hard mounted on the Hoss!

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/zrod73026/detail?.dir=89ed&.dnm=ed14.jpg&.src=ph

Spare tire tubes are on board also, in the tool tube!

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/zrod73026/detail?.dir=89ed&.dnm=4dc2.jpg&.src=ph

I'm thinkin you could give us quite a tour of Mexico with your experience.
Yup, I been watchin Ya too,;-)
Rod:-P
 
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