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Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Well is it together yet?
Well is it together yet?
-
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THE TWTex XR400 Thread.
- Thread starter thrill-billy85
- Start date
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Ohh come on now!!! Geez this thread is barely even a week old. Lol. I've made some good progress, considering. Anyways, tomorrow is my Saturday, I picked up a 60,000btu propane forced air heater today, and will be at it around 7am tomorrow. At some point I have to go over to my step-grandfather-in-laws and hang 1 piece of crown molding... Trick is- its got an outside corner at both ends, and he doesn't want a joint in the middle... Y'all know how hard it is to cut 2 compound miter joints at each end of a piece of crown molding when there's a grumpy old coot standing behind you critiquing every single move you make... Lol.
Regrettably I also don't have any bike pics for you guys, and I don't like to post without at least one pic... My 15 (at the time) helping set valve clearance on a KLX head
Ohh come on now!!! Geez this thread is barely even a week old. Lol. I've made some good progress, considering. Anyways, tomorrow is my Saturday, I picked up a 60,000btu propane forced air heater today, and will be at it around 7am tomorrow. At some point I have to go over to my step-grandfather-in-laws and hang 1 piece of crown molding... Trick is- its got an outside corner at both ends, and he doesn't want a joint in the middle... Y'all know how hard it is to cut 2 compound miter joints at each end of a piece of crown molding when there's a grumpy old coot standing behind you critiquing every single move you make... Lol.
Regrettably I also don't have any bike pics for you guys, and I don't like to post without at least one pic... My 15 (at the time) helping set valve clearance on a KLX head
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Since you asked, 2 steps forward 1 step back....
New front and rear sprockets installed, O-Ring chain would be too but I ordered 68 links not 68 inches! Luckily the ebay seller takes returns.
Baja Designs rechargeable battery pack showed up today, the next step is wiring in a GPS & USB outlet using the 12VDC from the battery. Horn switch traced and horn mounted & wired. Next up, new thread insert in the plastic switchgear mount (remember the Loctite rant?).
Hopefully the muffler will be here this week, in the meantime I took a wire brush to the stock headers.
Even though my workshop has heat (and AC, god bless you previous home owner) I haven't exactly been motivated to get outside & work on much. Need to get all this done before next week so I can have the talented Monkey Wrench crew work on the jetting with me before I leave for the next business trips.
Since you asked, 2 steps forward 1 step back....
New front and rear sprockets installed, O-Ring chain would be too but I ordered 68 links not 68 inches! Luckily the ebay seller takes returns.
Baja Designs rechargeable battery pack showed up today, the next step is wiring in a GPS & USB outlet using the 12VDC from the battery. Horn switch traced and horn mounted & wired. Next up, new thread insert in the plastic switchgear mount (remember the Loctite rant?).
Hopefully the muffler will be here this week, in the meantime I took a wire brush to the stock headers.
Even though my workshop has heat (and AC, god bless you previous home owner) I haven't exactly been motivated to get outside & work on much. Need to get all this done before next week so I can have the talented Monkey Wrench crew work on the jetting with me before I leave for the next business trips.
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Okay, I know this is huge, but.... Do you think you could scribble me up a diagram of how you wired the DC circuit up? I know it's a lot to ask, but I NEEEDDD IT
Okay, I know this is huge, but.... Do you think you could scribble me up a diagram of how you wired the DC circuit up? I know it's a lot to ask, but I NEEEDDD IT
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
I can't remember, do you have the Baja DS kit? If so it's just a question of where to pickup the DC voltage. Some people just tap off the headlight but using the battery (itself a nice DC regulator) as the source is a lot cleaner electrically.
If you don't have the Baja all is not lost! You'll need the following;
1) AC to DC rectifier - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a28f6dd26&vxp=mtr
This will convert the AC voltage to DC. Hook the Hot (Yellow in this case) wire to any AC line, since you'll probably want the gubbins under the seat I'd recommend the tail light.
2) Rechargeable battery pack (NiCAD is best as they are less concerned about the quality of the charge). I used the Baja Designs one, lots of conversations online about other options but I like that the BD is designed for MC use plus the cost is about the same. Of course, you don't actually need this part it's just nice to have a little juice when the bikes not running plus the battery will help smooth out the voltage spikes.
http://www.bajadesigns.com/ProductDetail?ItemNumber=120315
3) For pure convenience I ordered a bar mounted lighter/USB outlet -
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/161173033536?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]Motorcycle Waterproof 2 1A Cigarette Lighter USB Power Socket Charger for Phone | eBay[/ame]
This will wire in place of the one included in the rectifier kit.
Should be all good to go here, I'll draw up a diagram later today. Remember the stock stator is pretty low output, perfect for a GPS, phone or whatever but don't try the Gerbings suit & 3 Baja night lights on the stock system!
I can't remember, do you have the Baja DS kit? If so it's just a question of where to pickup the DC voltage. Some people just tap off the headlight but using the battery (itself a nice DC regulator) as the source is a lot cleaner electrically.
If you don't have the Baja all is not lost! You'll need the following;
1) AC to DC rectifier - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a28f6dd26&vxp=mtr
This will convert the AC voltage to DC. Hook the Hot (Yellow in this case) wire to any AC line, since you'll probably want the gubbins under the seat I'd recommend the tail light.
2) Rechargeable battery pack (NiCAD is best as they are less concerned about the quality of the charge). I used the Baja Designs one, lots of conversations online about other options but I like that the BD is designed for MC use plus the cost is about the same. Of course, you don't actually need this part it's just nice to have a little juice when the bikes not running plus the battery will help smooth out the voltage spikes.
http://www.bajadesigns.com/ProductDetail?ItemNumber=120315
3) For pure convenience I ordered a bar mounted lighter/USB outlet -
[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/161173033536?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT"]Motorcycle Waterproof 2 1A Cigarette Lighter USB Power Socket Charger for Phone | eBay[/ame]
This will wire in place of the one included in the rectifier kit.
Should be all good to go here, I'll draw up a diagram later today. Remember the stock stator is pretty low output, perfect for a GPS, phone or whatever but don't try the Gerbings suit & 3 Baja night lights on the stock system!
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
I've got a 100wX2 (floated) electrosport stato .
)))
Stock wiring on bike
And this, for warmth
I've got a 100wX2 (floated) electrosport stato .
)))Stock wiring on bike
And this, for warmth
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Schematic;
I added a fuse to be on the safe side.
Schematic;
I added a fuse to be on the safe side.
ed29
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Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
On a stator with a two wire phased AC output that stator lead shown going to ground would go instead to the right side corner of the bridge rectifier. The bottom corner of the bridge would then connect to ground along with the negative battery post. Chances are good that two un-labeled yellow stator wires are a phased AC output.
EDIT.... I just saw that what I thought would represent the stator is labeled tail light. In that diagram the tail light would never illuminate. The diode in the upper left portion of the bridge would block the positive side of the battery from energizing the bulb.
On a stator with a two wire phased AC output that stator lead shown going to ground would go instead to the right side corner of the bridge rectifier. The bottom corner of the bridge would then connect to ground along with the negative battery post. Chances are good that two un-labeled yellow stator wires are a phased AC output.
EDIT.... I just saw that what I thought would represent the stator is labeled tail light. In that diagram the tail light would never illuminate. The diode in the upper left portion of the bridge would block the positive side of the battery from energizing the bulb.
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Actually I was having him tap into the existing AC tail light wiring (not shown) as a reasonable place to pick up the power. That way you can hide everything under the seat.
Edit: Revised schematic for clarity;
Actually I was having him tap into the existing AC tail light wiring (not shown) as a reasonable place to pick up the power. That way you can hide everything under the seat.
Edit: Revised schematic for clarity;
Last edited:
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
What do the pink and yellow words on the stock harness go to?
What do the pink and yellow words on the stock harness go to?
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
P & Y go from one tap on the Stator to the AC voltage regulator to power the lights. The second tap (Brown & Black/Red) is used for the ignition circuit.
The unregulated AC goes into the regulator (unregulated means that every time you rev the bike the voltage swings up & down accordingly). The regulator output consists of a Green wire (tied to chassis ground) & a White/Yellow wire which supplies regulated (voltage swings are smoothed out) AC power to the lights via the Blue wire. Hence my thought of tapping into the tail light power, thats just a more convenient way to access that regulated AC supply.
If you add my schematic to this, then the tail light wire feeds the rectifier which converts the AC into DC. The battery acts a little as capacitor and helps smooth out the voltage further which is probably preferable to the GPS & other more sensitive electronics you will be plugging in. The fuse is just to protect the battery and electronics against a dead short.
Check everything with a multimeter before hooking up anything you care about!
P & Y go from one tap on the Stator to the AC voltage regulator to power the lights. The second tap (Brown & Black/Red) is used for the ignition circuit.
The unregulated AC goes into the regulator (unregulated means that every time you rev the bike the voltage swings up & down accordingly). The regulator output consists of a Green wire (tied to chassis ground) & a White/Yellow wire which supplies regulated (voltage swings are smoothed out) AC power to the lights via the Blue wire. Hence my thought of tapping into the tail light power, thats just a more convenient way to access that regulated AC supply.
If you add my schematic to this, then the tail light wire feeds the rectifier which converts the AC into DC. The battery acts a little as capacitor and helps smooth out the voltage further which is probably preferable to the GPS & other more sensitive electronics you will be plugging in. The fuse is just to protect the battery and electronics against a dead short.
Check everything with a multimeter before hooking up anything you care about!
Last edited:
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
The yellow, and white leads from the stator are both DC leads. The tech sup. guy at electrosport said a yellow is paired with a white, to make up 2 100w DC circuits. (If I understood correctly). He said if I wanted to run AC, then take both yellow words, and ground them, or splice the to any green wire of the factory harness. I'll bring the harness in tonight and work it out.
Anyways, I made some progress today. This bike is really looking nice. Got the swing arm and shock linkage greased up, changed 2 bearings, greased err thing, and put back in the bike. I know the swingarm pivot bolt will have to come out to put the motor back in, but well cross that bridge when we get there. Top clamp is powdercoated, rear brakes cleaned up and reinstalled. Anyways, PICS!
Hur dey iz
What do y'all think about polishing the shock resivor??? Cool, or over-doing it?
The yellow, and white leads from the stator are both DC leads. The tech sup. guy at electrosport said a yellow is paired with a white, to make up 2 100w DC circuits. (If I understood correctly). He said if I wanted to run AC, then take both yellow words, and ground them, or splice the to any green wire of the factory harness. I'll bring the harness in tonight and work it out.
Anyways, I made some progress today. This bike is really looking nice. Got the swing arm and shock linkage greased up, changed 2 bearings, greased err thing, and put back in the bike. I know the swingarm pivot bolt will have to come out to put the motor back in, but well cross that bridge when we get there. Top clamp is powdercoated, rear brakes cleaned up and reinstalled. Anyways, PICS!
Hur dey iz
What do y'all think about polishing the shock resivor??? Cool, or over-doing it?
Last edited:
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Hmm - that does not sound correct unless the Stator has a DC rectifier built into the unit or connected somewhere in the circuit? I looked at their page & see no such thing for the XR400R product. This tech document from them is very good at 'splainin all this - http://www.electrosport.com/technic...articles/how-motorcycle-charging-system-works
As for the shock rez, you're making the prettiest XR in existence so carry on I say!
Hmm - that does not sound correct unless the Stator has a DC rectifier built into the unit or connected somewhere in the circuit? I looked at their page & see no such thing for the XR400R product. This tech document from them is very good at 'splainin all this - http://www.electrosport.com/technic...articles/how-motorcycle-charging-system-works
As for the shock rez, you're making the prettiest XR in existence so carry on I say!
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Well after a little bit of checking, the white wires have continuity with each other, and the yellow wires have continuity with each other.
Allow me to clarify one thing though.... Coming from the stator, the ONLY wires that MUST be hooked up for the bike to run are the pickup circuit (blue/green) and the black, and brown, correct? The yellow and white (white in my case, pink on stock) wires are for the lights??
So here's what I'm wanting to do.... Run headlight, brake/tail, horn, and USB port on a DC circuit with a small 12v battery.
So... That said. I find a pair of wires from my yellow/white bunch, (cap the two extra) that have continuity with each other. Run those words into a DC reg/rec. Run the red/black out of the reg/rec to the battery. Run all my goodies (head/tail/horn/USB) off that.
Am I getting this??
Well after a little bit of checking, the white wires have continuity with each other, and the yellow wires have continuity with each other.
Allow me to clarify one thing though.... Coming from the stator, the ONLY wires that MUST be hooked up for the bike to run are the pickup circuit (blue/green) and the black, and brown, correct? The yellow and white (white in my case, pink on stock) wires are for the lights??
So here's what I'm wanting to do.... Run headlight, brake/tail, horn, and USB port on a DC circuit with a small 12v battery.
So... That said. I find a pair of wires from my yellow/white bunch, (cap the two extra) that have continuity with each other. Run those words into a DC reg/rec. Run the red/black out of the reg/rec to the battery. Run all my goodies (head/tail/horn/USB) off that.
Am I getting this??
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Remember the stator generates electricity by passing a magnet by a coil of wire wound around a metal core. What you're doing is metering either end of that coil so you will see continuity.
Remember the stator generates electricity by passing a magnet by a coil of wire wound around a metal core. What you're doing is metering either end of that coil so you will see continuity.
Last edited:
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Exactly. Or you could buy a BMW or KTM and have 6 computers handle that for you sir!
To mis-quote Professor Higgins "you've got it!" Although the lights will run happily on AC too. My schematic picked up the voltage for DC rectification after the lighting circuit. No really compelling reason why beyond the "if it ain't broke..."
Exactly. Or you could buy a BMW or KTM and have 6 computers handle that for you sir!
To mis-quote Professor Higgins "you've got it!" Although the lights will run happily on AC too. My schematic picked up the voltage for DC rectification after the lighting circuit. No really compelling reason why beyond the "if it ain't broke..."
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Okay, so the CDI doesn't need either of the (yellow or pink) that feed into the ac regulator?
Also, with my 2 yellow, and 2 white wire coming from my CDI... The white have continuity with each other. The 2 yellow have continuity with each other. So I take either the yellow, or white set, and wire those to a DC reg/rec, then to a battery, then get the party started??
----+edit+-------
Sorry for the redundancy. I just saw all of your above post.
In gonna take the ac circuit out of the harness. I've got it all apart, spread out on y dining room table. May as well
Pic. Yes those are flowers I picked for my girls.
Exactly. Or you could buy a BMW or KTM and have 6 computers handle that for you sir!
To mis-quote Professor Higgins "you've got it!" Although the lights will run happily on AC too. My schematic picked up the voltage for DC rectification after the lighting circuit. No really compelling reason why beyond the "if it ain't broke..."
Okay, so the CDI doesn't need either of the (yellow or pink) that feed into the ac regulator?
Also, with my 2 yellow, and 2 white wire coming from my CDI... The white have continuity with each other. The 2 yellow have continuity with each other. So I take either the yellow, or white set, and wire those to a DC reg/rec, then to a battery, then get the party started??
----+edit+-------
Sorry for the redundancy. I just saw all of your above post.
In gonna take the ac circuit out of the harness. I've got it all apart, spread out on y dining room table. May as well
Pic. Yes those are flowers I picked for my girls.
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Could anyone following benefit from a fork seal swap tutorial? These Showa's are on a lot of different bikes...
Could anyone following benefit from a fork seal swap tutorial? These Showa's are on a lot of different bikes...
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
I could benefit from suspension 101. Yes, I know RTFM but when all the RTFMs seem to disagree...
I could benefit from suspension 101. Yes, I know RTFM but when all the RTFMs seem to disagree...
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
RTFM?
RTFM?
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Ahhh, okay. Yeah the Honda manual I downloaded from you is garbage for this application. If you follow that to a T, it gets pretty convoluted.
Certainly won't be a "101" type thread, but more, Showa conventional fork 101. It'll be pretty specific to these forks.
Ahhh, okay. Yeah the Honda manual I downloaded from you is garbage for this application. If you follow that to a T, it gets pretty convoluted.
Certainly won't be a "101" type thread, but more, Showa conventional fork 101. It'll be pretty specific to these forks.
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
Big update today. So I was looking at my unfinished parts shelf, and decided I'd call Honda and see if they had any fork seals in stock. Luckily they had them . I went and picked them up, plus some 10w fork oil, as I'm 200lbs, and ride fast.
The Honda manual give a process that will work, but honestly, there's a lot of redundant, useless steps, as well as a few tricks I'll show y'all.
Clamp your fork tubes in a vice, or if they're still in the bike, loosen the fork caps. If you're using a vice, use wood blocks, special for tube holders, or... an old T-shirt. Back your rebound dampner screw out all the way. Take note of how many clicks it was so you can set it back when you're done.
Now dump all that nasty old oil out. Work the fork in and out to get the oil out of the cartridge too. When you're doing this, you'll understand what I mean. Easy concept. Anyways, not very much came out of mine, which is why they felt like dollar store pogo-sticks.
Ewww- there's supposed to be like 873 ml in there.
Now, take a 14mm wrench and hold the stop nut so you can remove the cap from the plunger rod.
Okay now set the cap aside. And put the fork back in the vise. Clamp it at the top of the fork tube (the bottom part of the fork) so that you've got it clamped abut in the middle of the whole assembly. Push the fork LEG (chrome part) all the way in. Now, with one hand put pressure on the fork spring. The idea is to put pressure on the lower part of the cartridge so it doesn't spin when you loosen the 'center nut', which is the nut at the bottom of the fork, with the compression dampner screw in the middle. With your other hand, back out the 19mm center but with an IMPACT. If you don't have an impact, be it pneumatic, or battery operated, turn your man-card in, and go have some jasmine tea. If the nut spins, but doesn't back out, apply more pressure to the spring, you wuss.
Okay now that that's loose, remove the spring, and take out the cartridge, and dampner rod. Its 2 parts, but they come out together.
Next up you pry the dust seal out with a flat head screwdriver. Super easy, just don't get rough and mess stiff up and scratch things. Next take out the wire snap ring thing that holds the fork seal in. Identify the end of it, and pry it up with a skinny flathead, or pick.
The red line is the cartridge, the green line kinda points to the snap ring.
Pull it out
Okay now this is gonna sound strange, but... Its the way you do it. Hold the fork with the leg (chrome part) in one hand, and the fork tube in the other. Slide the leg till you hear a *clink*. That's the lower bushing, hitting the upper. Now give it ****. Tug, tug, tug till it comes out. You'll get the upper, and lower bushings, a washer, and the fork seal all at once.
I didn't get a picture, and now I'm kicking myself. Anyways, there's still an aluminum tube looking piece down in the bottom of the fork tube. Dump it out, clean it up, clean EVERYTHING up, and get yourself ready.
Next thing. Put the new (if they need it) bushings on the fork leg, just like the old ones came off. Slide the washer on, and slide the greased up fork seal onto the fork leg. The side with the spring goes downward, the writing faces up.
Now, take the aluminum spacer thing and put it back down in the fork tube. When its all put together, it fits into the bottom of the fork LEG like this, but for now, just put it down the fork TUBE, flange side down. In this pic you can also see both bushings. The blower one sits in a groove on the fork leg, the upper is just sliding free at this point
Drop that sucker on in
When its all said and done, the bottom of the cartridge fits into the little aluminum sleeve you just 'deep-sixed'
Now, put the fork leg into the fork tube. Its not gonna go all the way down at first because nothing is there to hold that little aluminum sleeve in place we just dropped down the fork tube. It'll be like this- (see pic) use your finger to center it, and slide the fork leg over it. Gotta jamk it around some, but its easy
When its done, and in the correct spot, it looks like this- centered, fork leg all the way down, and you can't really see it.
Okay so the lower bushing is at the bottom of the fork tube attached to the bottom of the fork leg. The upper bushing is at the top and you gotta press it into the fork tube. Use the washer between the seal and the bushing to kinda provide a flat surface to jimmy the bushing down into its spot. You don't necessarily have to get it worked all the way down. It'll go to its home when you drive the fork seal in. Slide the fork seal down the fork leg, and get it lined up to drive in. Younjeed to use a fork seal driver for this part, but I don't. I use the flat side of a body hammer with gorilla tape wrapped around it, and a rubber mallet to do the driving. Sharp form blown to one side, and then to the other.
Folks, I really don't recommend this method. Its a good way to mess up a fork seal and have to do this all over again. Practice makes perfect with this method, and I've got a bit. Anyways you'll know the fork seal is all the way seated when you can see the groove for the retainer clip. Put the retainer clip in. Slide the dust seal on. Tap it into place.
At this point you'll have this.
Slide the cartridge into the fork leg. The fork leg should still be all the way down in the fork tube, and still centered around that aluminum sleeve, remember? Okay, the cartridge fits INTO that sleeve. Now, slide the spring back in and apply pressure so you can reinstall the center nut at the bottom of the fort the same way you took it out. With an impact... that you already have... Because youre a man, man.
Take the spring back out and get ready to fill with fluid. There are many ways to skin this cat, and everyone sets this up differently.
Okay, fork leg compressed, no spring, pour about 873 ml into the fork tube, but you won't be able to get it all in the first shot. Reach down and grab the plunger rod up and down. After a while of that you'll see the oil level drop. That because the cartridge is filling up. When you pull up on the rod, and fluid comes out the top, the cartridge is full. Get the rest of approx 873 ml in. Listen the exact amount isn't important, but what IS, is that both forks have the same amount. You need to fill it to about 100-120mm from the top of the fork leg. About 4 inches.
Now this part is where the manual gets stupid. I'm not sure what it says exactly, because I stopped reading.
Reach in with your little fingers and SLOWLY pull the dampner rod up. Screw the cap onto the dampner rod (not all the way) and then screw the cap into the fork leg, again, not all the way. The idea is to keep the fluid from squirting all over the place. Now pull up on the fork leg, and fully extend the fork. Remove the cap back off from the leg, and rod. Slide the fork leg back down a few inches, but keep the dampner rod all the way up. Put your spring back in and set the retainer on top the spring. Screw the dampner rod back into the cap and tighten it up. Slide the fork leg back up and screw the cap back into it.
Be carful the o-ring on the cap is in place. It'll try to booger out as you tighten the cap back on.
Tighten them up (it really doesn't take a whole heck of a lot of torque guys) install on bike. Have beer. Spend an hour telling everyone on TWTex how you did it.
Sorry for the typos
Big update today. So I was looking at my unfinished parts shelf, and decided I'd call Honda and see if they had any fork seals in stock. Luckily they had them . I went and picked them up, plus some 10w fork oil, as I'm 200lbs, and ride fast.
The Honda manual give a process that will work, but honestly, there's a lot of redundant, useless steps, as well as a few tricks I'll show y'all.
Clamp your fork tubes in a vice, or if they're still in the bike, loosen the fork caps. If you're using a vice, use wood blocks, special for tube holders, or... an old T-shirt. Back your rebound dampner screw out all the way. Take note of how many clicks it was so you can set it back when you're done.
Now dump all that nasty old oil out. Work the fork in and out to get the oil out of the cartridge too. When you're doing this, you'll understand what I mean. Easy concept. Anyways, not very much came out of mine, which is why they felt like dollar store pogo-sticks.
Ewww- there's supposed to be like 873 ml in there.
Now, take a 14mm wrench and hold the stop nut so you can remove the cap from the plunger rod.
Okay now set the cap aside. And put the fork back in the vise. Clamp it at the top of the fork tube (the bottom part of the fork) so that you've got it clamped abut in the middle of the whole assembly. Push the fork LEG (chrome part) all the way in. Now, with one hand put pressure on the fork spring. The idea is to put pressure on the lower part of the cartridge so it doesn't spin when you loosen the 'center nut', which is the nut at the bottom of the fork, with the compression dampner screw in the middle. With your other hand, back out the 19mm center but with an IMPACT. If you don't have an impact, be it pneumatic, or battery operated, turn your man-card in, and go have some jasmine tea. If the nut spins, but doesn't back out, apply more pressure to the spring, you wuss.
Okay now that that's loose, remove the spring, and take out the cartridge, and dampner rod. Its 2 parts, but they come out together.
Next up you pry the dust seal out with a flat head screwdriver. Super easy, just don't get rough and mess stiff up and scratch things. Next take out the wire snap ring thing that holds the fork seal in. Identify the end of it, and pry it up with a skinny flathead, or pick.
The red line is the cartridge, the green line kinda points to the snap ring.
Pull it out
Okay now this is gonna sound strange, but... Its the way you do it. Hold the fork with the leg (chrome part) in one hand, and the fork tube in the other. Slide the leg till you hear a *clink*. That's the lower bushing, hitting the upper. Now give it ****. Tug, tug, tug till it comes out. You'll get the upper, and lower bushings, a washer, and the fork seal all at once.
I didn't get a picture, and now I'm kicking myself. Anyways, there's still an aluminum tube looking piece down in the bottom of the fork tube. Dump it out, clean it up, clean EVERYTHING up, and get yourself ready.
Next thing. Put the new (if they need it) bushings on the fork leg, just like the old ones came off. Slide the washer on, and slide the greased up fork seal onto the fork leg. The side with the spring goes downward, the writing faces up.
Now, take the aluminum spacer thing and put it back down in the fork tube. When its all put together, it fits into the bottom of the fork LEG like this, but for now, just put it down the fork TUBE, flange side down. In this pic you can also see both bushings. The blower one sits in a groove on the fork leg, the upper is just sliding free at this point
Drop that sucker on in
When its all said and done, the bottom of the cartridge fits into the little aluminum sleeve you just 'deep-sixed'
Now, put the fork leg into the fork tube. Its not gonna go all the way down at first because nothing is there to hold that little aluminum sleeve in place we just dropped down the fork tube. It'll be like this- (see pic) use your finger to center it, and slide the fork leg over it. Gotta jamk it around some, but its easy
When its done, and in the correct spot, it looks like this- centered, fork leg all the way down, and you can't really see it.
Okay so the lower bushing is at the bottom of the fork tube attached to the bottom of the fork leg. The upper bushing is at the top and you gotta press it into the fork tube. Use the washer between the seal and the bushing to kinda provide a flat surface to jimmy the bushing down into its spot. You don't necessarily have to get it worked all the way down. It'll go to its home when you drive the fork seal in. Slide the fork seal down the fork leg, and get it lined up to drive in. Younjeed to use a fork seal driver for this part, but I don't. I use the flat side of a body hammer with gorilla tape wrapped around it, and a rubber mallet to do the driving. Sharp form blown to one side, and then to the other.
Folks, I really don't recommend this method. Its a good way to mess up a fork seal and have to do this all over again. Practice makes perfect with this method, and I've got a bit. Anyways you'll know the fork seal is all the way seated when you can see the groove for the retainer clip. Put the retainer clip in. Slide the dust seal on. Tap it into place.
At this point you'll have this.
Slide the cartridge into the fork leg. The fork leg should still be all the way down in the fork tube, and still centered around that aluminum sleeve, remember? Okay, the cartridge fits INTO that sleeve. Now, slide the spring back in and apply pressure so you can reinstall the center nut at the bottom of the fort the same way you took it out. With an impact... that you already have... Because youre a man, man.
Take the spring back out and get ready to fill with fluid. There are many ways to skin this cat, and everyone sets this up differently.
Okay, fork leg compressed, no spring, pour about 873 ml into the fork tube, but you won't be able to get it all in the first shot. Reach down and grab the plunger rod up and down. After a while of that you'll see the oil level drop. That because the cartridge is filling up. When you pull up on the rod, and fluid comes out the top, the cartridge is full. Get the rest of approx 873 ml in. Listen the exact amount isn't important, but what IS, is that both forks have the same amount. You need to fill it to about 100-120mm from the top of the fork leg. About 4 inches.
Now this part is where the manual gets stupid. I'm not sure what it says exactly, because I stopped reading.
Reach in with your little fingers and SLOWLY pull the dampner rod up. Screw the cap onto the dampner rod (not all the way) and then screw the cap into the fork leg, again, not all the way. The idea is to keep the fluid from squirting all over the place. Now pull up on the fork leg, and fully extend the fork. Remove the cap back off from the leg, and rod. Slide the fork leg back down a few inches, but keep the dampner rod all the way up. Put your spring back in and set the retainer on top the spring. Screw the dampner rod back into the cap and tighten it up. Slide the fork leg back up and screw the cap back into it.
Be carful the o-ring on the cap is in place. It'll try to booger out as you tighten the cap back on.
Tighten them up (it really doesn't take a whole heck of a lot of torque guys) install on bike. Have beer. Spend an hour telling everyone on TWTex how you did it.
Sorry for the typos
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Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
I just got all the way done with thebfork seal how-to, and something happened.. Its effing gone! I'll work on it tomorrow night folks. Bedtime
+++edit++++!
Never mind. There it is! Mods delete THIS post please (#74)
I just got all the way done with thebfork seal how-to, and something happened.. Its effing gone! I'll work on it tomorrow night folks. Bedtime
+++edit++++!
Never mind. There it is! Mods delete THIS post please (#74)
Re: XR4 Repair/build/DS thread
I'm in - I'd love to get a class on general suspension set up too.
I'm in - I'd love to get a class on general suspension set up too.