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O-rings don't need lube?!?!

Joined
Oct 12, 2004
Messages
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Location
Anna, TX
Gentlemen,

I recently had my scooter serviced at a local shop and the service manager opined that o-ring chains don't need to be lubed. The owner's manual says to do it every 600 miles and I do religiously.

His arguement is that there is lube in the o-ring and anything I squirt on it doesn't soak in anyway because the o-ring is sealed. All I'm doing is making it quieter for a few miles until it's all flung off at high speed. There's some logic to it, but mostly I say crapola...you?

maximumrob
 
Yes they require cleaning and lubing. I use kerosene and Motorex 622. If nothing else it keeps the chain grit free and from rusting.
 
The lube doesn't enter the chain on an O ring chain, but you still must lube it because the chain links and sprocket teeth run metal on metal. If you run one a little long without lubing, you can tell by the chain noise. It also keeps the externals of the chain from rusting.

I use chain wax, maxima or silkolene are great! It's clean, won't sling off, made for lubing O ring chains. You really don't have to clean a chain as often as most say, unless you live 2 miles down a dirt road or run off road a lot. I've seen articles where they compared chain life on a cleaned vs uncleaned street chain and there was little or no difference. Still, it don't hurt to throw a wet kerosene rag on it now and then. I do it when I clean the bike, which isn't all that often, LOL! It seems to me that it'd keep the grit from wearing things and it sure don't HURT anything.
 
:tab Rust will kill the chain pretty quick in my experience, that and dirt grit. The shop guy is right, the whole point of the o-ring chain is that the rings keep the lube inside the roller housing. External "lubing" is really more about keeping the parts clean and rust free so that the o-rings don't get torn up prematurely. Prepare yourself for some blasphemy... I used WD-40 on my chains on the VFR's and they lasted just as long (17K - 20K miles) as they did when I used chain wax :nana

:tab I used the S100 cleaner on the chain with the bike on the centerstand idling in first gear. I just sprayed it on, let it run about 30 seconds or so, then hosed it off. This was followed by WD-40 (engine off) and the excess was wiped off with rag. Some people have almost blown gaskets when I mention this to them. I find it quite amusing :lol: It is another of those sacred cow issues like dino vs synth, harley vs anything else, helmet or no helmet,... For what it is worth, I could NEVER discern even the slightest bit of wear (even measuring with a micrometer) on either the front or rear sprockets on both VFR's after changing 5-6 chains while I had the bikes.
 
Tourmeister said:
Prepare yourself for some blasphemy... I used WD-40 on my chains on the VFR's and they lasted just as long (17K - 20K miles) as they did when I used chain wax :nana

CHAIN LUBE THREAD!
 
I use chain wax on my chains 'cause chain wax is clean and clings.

I use WD40 on my shotguns after I get home from a duck hunt. It's not really that great for shotguns 'cause it evaporates so soon. But, it's convenient and displaces any water on the weapon. I'm not sure it'd stay on a chain more'n a block. :shock:
 
Chain? chain Lube? What the heck is that?

I've looked all over on the Burgman and can't find it. ;-)
 
txmedic said:
CHAIN LUBE THREAD!

Okay, I'll play:

1. I have heard WD-40 Only theory, specifically as it pertains to Chain Wax. Proponents of this theory say that chain wax will actually seal water in the crevices & crannys around the o-rings, leading to premature degradation, rust, world hunger, etc. WD-40, according to these folks, pushes water out, prolonging chain life.

2. I have heard the Chain Wax Only theory. According to its adherents, particularly for dusty/ dirty applications, Chain Wax "suspends" particulate matter, lasts longer, while WD-40 does not, and works about as well as hair spray.

3. I have heard the no lube theory, whose proponents are obviously crackpots and nutjobs. [/flamestarter :twisted:]

Personally, I subscribe to the "whatever lube is closest" theory. Right now, I have leftover Chain Wax from long past dirt riding days, so thats what I'm using, about every 2-3 weeks, depending on mileage, appearance, & what mood I'm in. I like Chain Wax because:

If applied correctly (read: the way I do it) the bike and wheel arent covered in goo within 0.3 miles of application.
It smells good.
Using an application specific lube makes me feel like I really know what I'm doing
When I run out, I have a reason to go to a mo-bike store.
 
sharkey said:
Chain? chain Lube? What the heck is that?

I've looked all over on the Burgman and can't find it. ;-)


Scooter trash. :-P

The wing doesn't have a chain, either. It's got a drive shaft, which is far more sophisiticated than a V belt. :rofl

But, my friends tell me, serious motorcycles have chains. :scratch And, then, there's the Harley/Buell faction that just adds teeth to their V belts..... :-|
 
I'll have to admit, it hasn't really mattered what I have used on chains, they all have worn out at about the same rate. Chain wax, Motorex, PJ-1, or WD-40 all had the same results. I prefer shaft drive for the most part anyway, it eliminates most of the arguements about final drive care.
 
I prefer shaft drive for the most part anyway, it eliminates most of the arguements about final drive care.

I beg to differ ;-) I know a lot of other shafties that would agree with me, hehe.
 
Tourmeister said:
I beg to differ ;-) I know a lot of other shafties that would agree with me, hehe.

And then there is BMW. :moon: You have to admit the maintenance is pretty simple...just drop it off at the local BMW dealer for replacement. They replace the oil and everything!
 
txmedic said:
And then there is BMW. :moon: You have to admit the maintenance is pretty simple...just drop it off at the local BMW dealer for replacement. They replace the oil and everything!

Yeah, failure to lube those shaft splines AT LEAST annually can really cost you big bucks....even if you do the work yourself. And it's a full six pack job on a monolever. Paralever looks even worse! :brainsnap
 
BeemerDude said:
Yeah, failure to lube those shaft splines AT LEAST annually can really cost you big bucks....even if you do the work yourself. And it's a full six pack job on a monolever. Paralever looks even worse! :brainsnap

Thankfully, splines on the Concours were easy to do. Take the rear wheel off, unbolt the four cap nuts and slide it off. No reason not to do it with every tire change. I miss that about the Connie, and it reminds me, its time to squirt the chain again. :lol:
 
:tab Lubing the splines is one of those things like chain wax vs WD-40. Some dealers will swear it never needs to be done (official BMW position) and other dealers will swear you absolutely have to do it. Then there are those in the middle that say, if you're already there and doing it is no biggie, do it. But it is not worth doing if that is all you plan to do. Like the final drive, there are those riders that have over 100K on their bikes with no problem and they've never touched them. Then there are the guys that have barely 20K on the bike and they went kaput despite lubing! Go figure :shrug:
 
You have to lube the Suzuki shafts with moly grease. If you don't, they'll round off and eventually give out. I didn't know this when I bought my VX800. I found out about it on the VX800 e-mail list. I checked, and sure 'nough they were beginning to round off. Just slapping some moly grease on 'em each tire change will, according to those that know, eliminate the problem.

Haven't had a problem with the Wing's shaft in 66K miles so far, and I've got wood to knock on here. When a shaft drive DOES need attention, it often is a **** and quite expensive. A first rate chain and sprockets is under $200 and straight forward to install and will last 25K. And, at least I can SEE the condition of the final drive with a chain.

I used to HATE chains due to the mess they made of the rear of the bike. When I got a shaft drive, I loved it! But, with the chain wax and O ring chains now days, adjustments are rare and the rear of the bike stays a whole lot cleaner.
 
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Steve Johnson is the leader of The Chaingang.

His last chain was taken off his 97 F650 with 54,000 miles, and it still had plenty left, no kinks.

ATF at each fill up. Keeps it clean. Fling wipes off with a dry paper towel.

No grunge brushes and kerosine, WD-40, and costs a fraction of anything else you can use. 67 cents a quart at the dollar general.


:dude: DAM :dude:
 
>The shop guy is right, the whole point of the o-ring chain is that the rings keep the lube inside the roller housing. External "lubing" is really more about keeping the parts clean and rust free so that the o-rings don't get torn up prematurely.

Yes, but, that totally ignores the chain-roller to sprocket interface. Some lube is needed. It doesn't have to be great, but a dry gritty roller will not do anything for sprocket wear. Won't hurt the chain that bad, as it's wearing in the rollers at their pivots (and the rings) anyway, but the unprotected sprocket will fare much worse with no, or too light of lube. A little is in order.
I only seem to get 12k out of chains. Doesn't matter whether they're clean or not, in my experience, but friends that clean religously do seem to get a bit more mileage than I do (15k)
Depends a lot of surfaces and weather ridden in too, no?
 
Yes, but, that totally ignores the chain-roller to sprocket interface. Some lube is needed. It doesn't have to be great, but a dry gritty roller will not do anything for sprocket wear.

:tab I don't think it is an issue. When the parts are in contact with each other, they are not moving relative to one another. I was horrible about maintaining my chains and as I mentioned before, I could not detect ANY wear on the front or rear sprockets of either of our VFR 800's. I rode the snot out of them and never babied them, still no measurable wear. So in theory, some lube might help, but for all practical purposes, I think it is a moot point :shrug:

DAM, what is ATF?
 
I used to use RK O,ring chain oil at 5 bucks a pint . It comes in a nice little bottle that seals well and takes up very little room on the bike. I was pouring 2 bottles togeather to get one full one , I looked at the oil , poured some on a clean surface then poured some chain saw bar oil beside it , stired it around a bit ,did the string test , I cant tell the diffrence . Now I use bar oil at 3 bucks a gallon . Since I cant seem to go anywhere with out getting dirty I dont care what the back wheel looks like , the bikes usally coverd with dirt , the swing arm is covered in gunk ,usally drips some oil when I park it . but my chains last . The Cagiva has 15,000 miles and the KTM has 12000 miles , both chains in great shape . The only time I adjust them is when I put new tires on . I guess if you oil it enough you can wash all the grit out. I see a couple of scott oilers in my future. SEYA
 
Hey David, talking about your rear wheel getting dirty, that's cause of the kind of company you keep. Great ride to Northwest AK. we did last week. Just in case you might change your mind about the pie run tomorrow, I'll buy your lunch. Denise just said "I sure wish Dave was leading, he's so good at it." Seven or eight of us are leaving town at eight in the morning. Be safe. HB
 
Sure wish I could go , just too much other stuff to do today. Have fun , ride crooked roads . SEYA
 
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