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Headlight Shorting Out/Blowing Fuse

Joined
Sep 25, 2007
Messages
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Location
Cibolo, Texas
First Name
Bob
KLR rider coming back from Mexico/Belize/Guatemala will be at my house around 1 PM or so today and has this puzzle to solve:

"I wanted to see if you could help me track down a short in one of my wires for my headlight. My headlight went out and I thought I blew a fuse. So I replaced the fuse under the seat. Then a few hours later it blew again. When I went to put a new fuse in, It blew the fuse as I was putting it in. I'm pretty sure that tells me that there is a wire grounding on something. I took the seat off and checked all those wires and could not find anything, but did not have time to pull the tank and the shroud."

It's an 08 KLR. I don't know my way around a multi-meter to save my bacon, other than that disclosure, any of you have any ideas other than to take the bike to the local Kawi dealer?

He needs to be gone very early in the AM for home so we only have half a day to solve this one

If you're interested in their ride report, here it is linky
 
PS anyone in the San Antonio area willing to come over and who knows electrical, I have a multi-meter to use. We can pull the tank and the seat if you're willing to help.
 
I do know that the wiring bundle under the gas tank on the 08 KLR has been the subject of a recall (along with the exhaust pipe mounting bolts).

Ergo, absent of someone who knows a multi-meter well or taking it to a dealer, the plan is to pull the tank, and inspect the wiring bundle for chafing.

The recall for this adds one of those spiral plastic things to protect the bundle where it comes into contact with metal.

If we can find a culprit and tape it up, he may be good to go.

Still would like a multi-meter pro if someone is available....
 
Look at the wiring where it passes by the steering head tube / fork leg / triple clamp. Common rub or pinch point.
Does it happen on both hi beam and low?
 
Look at the wiring where it passes by the steering head tube / fork leg / triple clamp. Common rub or pinch point.
Does it happen on both hi beam and low?

I won't know that until they get here, but you're on the right track, I think if we can inspect all the wiring by pulling everything, I'll be we find the culprit.

In the meantime, I'm self-schooling using Google on how to find a short using a multimeter
 
In addition to chaffed wires, also look for pinched wires. Crushed wire may have damaged conductors that will increase the current draw and subsequently blow fuses.
 
In addition to chaffed wires, also look for pinched wires. Crushed wire may have damaged conductors that will increase the current draw and subsequently blow fuses.

Unless the damaged wire is contacting something else conductive in the circuit, I don't see how it could draw more current. If it is damaged to the point that there is a V drop across the damaged area (i.e. missing strands), that would be less current across the fuse.
 
had a similar problem on the TL and turned out to be the connector to the bulb. I would disconnect the bulb and see if the connector has somehow melted or maybe needs some grease.

Other than that I gots nuttin.

Maverick
 
use a piece of wire to jump the fuse slot and follow the smoke!!! :lol2:

ok, we already know there is a recall for the wiring harness under the tank.
odds are you now know why. pull the tank and very closely examin the harness, it has rubbed through and is shorting out. the fact that the fuse blows instantly shows it is now a dead short to ground.

on a bike easy to find and fix.

shame I am up here and not down there. I don't feel like going to work, would rather wrench on bikes.
 
Quick check, unplug the switch. If the short is before the switch the multimeter will still show no resistance to ground at the fuse.
 
CAUTION!!!!!!!! DISCONNECT the battery BEFORE using multimeter in a resistance[ohms] setting. Failure to do so can[and will] cause great clouds of smoke to be emitted from body of meter usually making it worthless!
 
BTW, We have smoke re-insertion kits available where I work! They cost about the same as a new meter.
 
BTW, We have smoke re-insertion kits available where I work! They cost about the same as a new meter.

But how can you ensure that the meter will have the correct amount of OEM smoke after the kit? :rofl:
 
Tip the Veal, try your waitress, we'll be here all night. :trust:
 
But how can you ensure that the meter will have the correct amount of OEM smoke after the kit? :rofl:

It is a high performance Stage II kit, It should give you twice the smoke as the old meter.
If all else fails, duct tape a LED flashlight to the handle bars, your good to go.:rider:
 
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Nothing is ever the same after the smoke is let out.
Always keep the smoke in.

but, what if you DON'T inhale???

However, if I can get a 2:1 ratio on smoke to effort then it should be all good.

Just have to avoid all things blue for a while.

I think tricepilot was going to say somewhere in here what the problem turned out to be.

That is unless he was waiting for the Stage III kit.
 
Stage III kits from $19.95, L.E.D. flashlights from $9.95. All prices FOB or COD whichever comes first!
 
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