TriTon!

[grandpaul]

It's timing time.

Set the crank at 38 degrees BTDC using the flywheel cutout tool-



Confirmed with the pointer on the alternator rotor mark-



Installed the unit per the instructions-



Also installed the Sparx regulator/rectifier-



Looks like I'm going to need to stand the primary cover off at least 1/4" to clear the hunky MAP primary...

Oh, yes, note to anyone installing Dresda Triton engine adapter plates - install the transmission drain plug assembly before placing the engine in the cradle. The right side plate sits immediately below the drain/level plug location! You'll also have to crop the level plug about 1/4" to get it in and out of there for checking the tranny lube level.

[grandpaul]

Took a pair of OEM manifolds and chopped the ends of the flanges off-



Turned them down in the lathe-



Ready for the MkII carb spigots!



The lip sits perfectly in the inner recess of the rubber spigot with the clamp compressing it nicely. I did have to cut a V-notch in each one to clear the balance tubes.

[grandpaul]

Mounted the dual coil just ahead of the head, using the lower lip of the Dresda head steady plate; that completes the electronic ignition system-



I had this combo switch set aside for my '63 T-Bird street tracker, but that project is so far off I figured this was a better project to employ it on-



I had considered using an old style horn/dipper, then decided against it. It's hard to find decent quality classic electrical bits, it seems.

Speaking of which, I've sunk to a new low, using the cheesy tail lights that 90% of the world uses-



...mounted to what used to be a front fender. I dug around and found this one that matched the circuimference of the rear wheel; used a Triumph top fender strap and it fit perfectly.

[grandpaul]

Fabbed up a simple electrical panel that hides under the gas tank, every circuit fused in a 6-fuse box with a 30 amp main breaker (auto reset), and horn relay-



Let there be light!





Other than integrating some brake light switches, the electrics are done.

[grandpaul]

Very little I can do 'till my friend gets home and I can get back on his lathe, so just a few more details done...

Got in oil tank fittings and cables, plus other miscellaeous stuff-



Cockpit complete!



Managed to adapt the classic Triumph steering damper knob setup, it was almost plug & play, just had to locate a little spacer for the tension plate fixing bolt.

Oil tank is mounted, but I didn't get a shot of that.

I really need to get on the lathe, I'm forced to actually fabricate a single alloy split lock keeper for the titanium valve spring collet; one came up missing and it simply can't be replaced without buying an entire new collet & keeper set. Also, I still need to turn down the front hubs 1/4" on each side and get the front wheel mounted. Fork stiction problems all pointed to that and are now cured.

[grandpaul]

Thanx to one and all for the positive comments, this one has been a long time coming 'till it recently picked up speed.

Just got in my little AGM battery and fabbed up a simple suspended tray that fits perfectly behind the engine, in between the rear pair of engine mounting plates.



I made it from part of a security alarm panel enclosure; basically just had to chop off 2 sides excess, fold up one corner and drill two holes to use the same monuting holes that the regulator/rectifier uses (just off 1/2" from having perfect alignment with the two pre-drilled holes in the plates).

It is a bit of a fiddle to get the battery in and out, but shouldn't have to do that for quite some time.

I really like how the oil tank came out; it's a first-year Commando center mount "square" 'Jerry can' type. I simply re-shaped the upper mounting tab to curl back to an existing featherbed frame tab, then welded on two lower tabs that a pair of strap clamps catch on either side down low. 3-point mounting, at least 1/4" clearance to any adjacent structures, and the pickup/drain at almost the lowest spot on the tank.



Lastly, the slightly cheesy keywitch mount. I was wondering how I could make the Manx seat cut-out work for more than just crotch ventilation, then I figured...



(never mind the red tape, it's only temporary)

[road_thing]

Lovely work, Paul. Is that a piece of galvanized sheet metal you've got the fuse block mounted on?

rt

[grandpaul]

Originally Posted by road_thing

Lovely work, Paul. Is that a piece of galvanized sheet metal you've got the fuse block mounted on?

Yes, with the edges folded back and radiused.

[grandpaul]

My friend got back, and called me to come on in anytime and get back on the lathe and mill; it took me almost 7 minutes to drive the 5 miles to his house!

First order was to trim the shoulders on the front brake plates to fit the wheel between the forkjs without binding them up; his Bridgeport may be old, but it sure produces accurate cuts-



Next came the single alloy split keeper. I found a nice alloy lug that was just big enough to chuck up in the lathe and went to it-



Yes, I know I could have set up the angle traverse and cut the bevel using straight cuts across the length of the stock; this was easier, and it's soft alloy. Calculating the angle and setting it up properly would have taken me an hour, this took 2 minutes.

A big plus was that the length of the pattern keeper I was copying was exactly the length of the bit's width. One cut to the final thickness was all it took. I simply held the pattern bit up to one of the lathe jaw's face and aligned the tool with it.

Step 1 complete.



Next, over to the band saw and a quick cut right down the middle produced two potential donors. I cut the shoulder off the first one and took some measurements-



The slightest of accidents with a belt grinder trashed the better half, so it was on to the other half-



Not perfect, but it's secure (of course my camera decided it was all done, so apologies for the cruddy phone photo)-

[grandpaul]

I hope these pistons don't see the light of day for a LONG time (except on occasion through the spark plug hole, of course)-



It's too hard to make out from this photo (autofocus kept focusing on the outer edge of the fins), there is right near 3/16" gap with the second-thinnest silicone o-rings atop the pushrod tubes; should squash in place nicely-



A little anti-sieze on the M.A.P. stainless stud threads-

[grandpaul]

Cleaned up the rocker shaft ends, slipped the o-ring tool on, then the o-ring, a squirt of oil, then tapped the shafts home easily-



Hmmmmm... I think I'm capable of turning out a better-centered "tophat" spacer than whoever is making these for M.A.P...



In this shot, you can just see the tophat spacer underneath the wierd allen fastener that screws onto the center head stud; all special M.A.P. stuff. You can also see the secondary breather system tapped on the left exhaust rocker inspection cap and blowing through a one-way reed valve like the ones I make for the Norton Commando-

[grandpaul]

Most of the oil lines are done, notice the cartridge type oil filter just to the right of the return line (black tube w/ alloy cap)-



Simple clips to steady the carbs (one each)-



Coming along nicely now that the top end is done-



Oil cooler up front is mounted with the supply line connected, just lacks the return. I've got a design for a head steady cleat that I need to fabricate tomorrow...

[road_thing]

I remember that getting the pushrods lined up with the cups on the rocker arms was a huge **** on my old Triumphs. This one looks sweet!

rt

[grandpaul]

hee hee

That hassle hasn't changed over the years, it's STILL a big poop.

[leekellerking]

[grandpaul]

The punchlist is getting pretty short now...

Got the oil cooler & oil lines finished. Path is: oil tank to engine main pump inlet, (through engine circuits) scavenge pump outlet to oil filter inlet (cartridge outer surface), to filter outlet (from inner core), to oil cooler, back to oil tank return connection with feed line to rockerboxes. Depending on the performance and flow, I might have to go to a high volume aftermarket oil pump.



Engine looks pretty decent, I still need to tack on the patent plate-



Finally, it looks like a bike...



Not much left to get to the start-up point; main thing I'm missing is petcock nipple fittings, and I need to re-orient the kickstart shaft to engage at a higher angle so I can get in a decent kick. Sucker has mighty good compression!

[grandpaul]

It's been a pretty one-sided project up 'till now; I finally turned things around (literally), relocated the rearsets to coexist with the kickstarter, pipes, and linkages, and snapped a quick pic of the primary side of the bike-

[road_thing]

Paul, isn't the kicker going to foul the footpeg/shifter? Or does the peg fold up out of the way somehow?


Looking good...

rt

[grandpaul]

Indeed, the footpeg folds up out of the way. I'm going to re-orient the internal kickstart quadrant to allow approximately 120 degrees range of motion.

[grandpaul]

Okay, now you can see the details better in good light.

Still not running, but very close (this evening).

Some people say the unit engine looks "lost" inside the featherbed frame, like there's too much empty space; I disagree, I think it looks nicely proportional.





This is pretty much it, except for patent plate, muffler mount tabs and maybe a screen on the timing window.