• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

The DR/DRZ Thread

Pads are EBC, rotor is Galfer, brake line is new Galfer, master cylinder is Ebay unit made in China. DOT4 fluid. Rotor didn't have a film on it so I installed it as is. The caliper has had no work. Brake lever is firm when pressed hard.

So, I guess you are saying the tire should lock under full braking.
 
It’s been a lot of years since I’ve had a 21 inch street tire on the front end of a DRZ 400 S
But I don’t remember thinking it was so weak that it wouldn’t either cause a stopie if traction was available or lock up the front wheel if traction wasn’t available

When you give maximum braking are the tires and are not losing traction is it lifting the rear wheel?
 
No, it is not about to do a stoppie. It brakes pretty hard but it still has a ways to go for either a wheel lock up or stoppie.
 
Question for the group: I recently crushed my taillight (see pictures) so I need a replacement. Any thoughts?
fd2a89bde36ff05f3f1467fafaec3119.jpg
99d000e32812626771f0afaf5380dda4.jpg
7a0df511c4c8fa30ff80f4a89756960d.jpg


Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

I have a complete stock unit that was removed at 23 miles
 
No, it is not about to do a stoppie. It brakes pretty hard but it still has a ways to go for either a wheel lock up or stoppie.

Then something is not right.
The master cylinder is somewhat suspect as it is of unknown quality and build... It may have been marketed as a "direct replacement, exact fit" but that does not mean it is the same size piston with the same travel and the same lever to piston fulcrum dimensions as stock.... just that is was advertised as such. But it is what it is, so rule out other issues first.

Id start with cleaning the rotor, then hitting it with a refinishing disk, then cleaning it again.
Pads can be cleaned, sanded , cleaned and be 90% as long as not oil contaminated...but never really come back fully if they are contaminated at all IMHO.
Wrap some Teflon tape around the bleeder nipple threads...and re bleed the brakes with a hose on bleeder nipple in to clean jar partially filled with brake fluid so you can observe if you are getting air out of the line. Also change the orientation of the Master cylinder so the return port in the fluid cup is at the highest point.... you will get some trapped air to come out that return bleed port many times.

Check wheel bearings, no slop...

A rebuild of the caliper is a good idea as well, pop the pistons out and i bet you find crud in the bore that did not come out with a bleed.
clean well and install new seals which need the designed elasticity to work right and old seals even not leaking ones are commonly a source of brake performance issues.
 
Then something is not right.
The master cylinder is somewhat suspect as it is of unknown quality and build... It may have been marketed as a "direct replacement, exact fit" but that does not mean it is the same size piston with the same travel and the same lever to piston fulcrum dimensions as stock.... just that is was advertised as such. But it is what it is, so rule out other issues first.

Id start with cleaning the rotor, then hitting it with a refinishing disk, then cleaning it again.
Pads can be cleaned, sanded , cleaned and be 90% as long as not oil contaminated...but never really come back fully if they are contaminated at all IMHO.
Wrap some Teflon tape around the bleeder nipple threads...and re bleed the brakes with a hose on bleeder nipple in to clean jar partially filled with brake fluid so you can observe if you are getting air out of the line. Also change the orientation of the Master cylinder so the return port in the fluid cup is at the highest point.... you will get some trapped air to come out that return bleed port many times.

Check wheel bearings, no slop...

A rebuild of the caliper is a good idea as well, pop the pistons out and i bet you find crud in the bore that did not come out with a bleed.
clean well and install new seals which need the designed elasticity to work right and old seals even not leaking ones are commonly a source of brake performance issues.

Thanks for your input. This will be my over the winter project.
 
Has anyone riden a sm with dirt tires? How do they handle on dirt roads. Any better than the standard s?
 
Think of the SM 17"s with knobs as a higher performance TW200, the smaller the diameter the heavier it will feel in the dirt not to mention clearing deep ruts will be a chore, jmho.
 
Last edited:
I actually have a set of 17" sumo front and back wheels that I was thinking of throwing a set of the TKC80 knobbies from Procycle. Haven't pulled the trigger on it yet, I really wanted to try a 19 out front.
 
I've ridden nearly all the jeep roads around Ouray and Crested Butte on an SM with DOT knobbies, about half riding double with my wife. They work fine if you're not in a hurry. I now own an S model and will go back to an SM when I find a really good deal. I rode all the dirt roads in BBNP with a buddy. He was on an SM and I was on my S. He didn't want to switch.
 
Beginning the teardown of my DR-Z. Head is repaired all new goodies. So far going well. I just found the long lost cam dowel that was missing when I bought the bike. It was jammed below the balancer gear and slightly smashed. So, again I find it better to be lucky than good. I was worried it might be in the motor, but I had done a couple thousand miles before I swapped the cams. So, again, very lucky. The clutch looks brand new. The water pump is pristine and clean. Looks like a new bike. I am sure something (crank, piston, rod, cylinder) needs replacing. More to come.
 
Here is a taste of where we are this evening. I will need a couple of days straight to get her sorted. I will note the clutch looks brand new. Apparently the guy that had it before me really did replace the clutch. The front sprocket was loose, I should be able to fix that. Like I said, the cam cap dowel was flopping around in there. The oil pump is pristine. The cylinder is basically still fine. Maybe Jasen needs a big bore?

Somethings happening here, what it is ain't exactly clear....
the swing arm bushings and bearings were even greased.

20171102_1603261.jpg


Nicely sorted box 'o parts. Reminds me of the TLR teardown all those winters ago...

20171102_1603451.jpg


The lump...

20171102_1603361.jpg


20171102_1603411.jpg


Still have some cleaning and such....

20171102_1603521.jpg


Did I mention that it is good to have a shop, bike lifts, and a proper scissor jack for lifting scooters by their frames? Peepaw's Scooter Shop is well equipped.

20171102_1604031.jpg
 
Last edited:
I would definitely put a big block kit on it, along with stage 2 cams, 39 fcr and appropriate pipe. The difference is astonishing. Totally different bike.
 
I would definitely put a big block kit on it, along with stage 2 cams, 39 fcr and appropriate pipe. The difference is astonishing. Totally different bike.
Um....the only thing Doug's bike didn't have was the stroker kit. It had all that, brembo, race tech, and more.

Well, so tonight I did the free power mod on MY DRZ. Kinda pales in comparison to Doug's night. Sigh. :giveup:
 
Hey, Jason, the big bore looks good, all you need are gaskets and a new clip for the piston. I would do the rings as well, but you can have it if you like, or we can give it to Chris. He has Stage II cams and an FCR, so his would really love the upgrade.

Clutch was pretty as were the other internals.

1456_1509702358638.jpg


1458_1509710194723.jpg


Reminds me of being in the TLR guts all those years ago.

PC060081.jpg
 
I think it would serve Chris better than it would serve me. I'll give him first shot at it. I do have the FCR, just not the stage II cams. Not looking for hp out of this one though. I just need it to get me where I want to go. It'll be more of a mule than a race horse.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top