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Old 03-31-2012, 01:18 AM   #201
Ross.Moorhouse
 
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Re: The handlebar thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alton View Post
3.5 years and 6 pages ago, sz-rider posted an idea for an on-the-cheap set of risers. I decided to use his idea and post some pics. My setup only adds 1/2" rise, but that was exactly what I needed. My total cost was about $15. Click on the pics for larger versions.

After taking off the handlebars and removing the mounts, this is what one of the mounts looks like.




Go to the hardware store, and take one of the above with you (just in case you need to compare).
I bought two of each of the following.

3/4"x1/2" collar
3/8"x3" hex head bolt
3/8" lock washer

I chose stainless steel. Its more expensive, but overall seems worth it.






When it goes back together, this is the order. The triple-tree goes between the collar and the lower rubber washer.



Don't forget to use some of this.




And here is what it looks like when all put back together.







This is my take on what you did. I could not get a collar. I searched our huge hardware chain store today and they had none. So I used 4 washes on each side. I also bought 3" x 3/8" bolts to mount the bar clamps back onto the triple clamp. You need at least 3" to allow for the extra length created my the bolts.

These cheap risers have given me 3/4" rise. What I like about using the washers is I can lower them in increments of just over a 1/4". So far I like the height.





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Old 03-31-2012, 01:22 AM   #202
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Re: The handlebar thread

Just a heads up. Dale over at holeshot now has some custom bars with the lines to go with it (+3 in) over stock. Not a bad setup if you are looking for the whole kit at one place with one price.

Mark
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:05 PM   #203
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Re: The handlebar thread

I have also toyed with the idea of getting a set of laverda jota adjustable handlebars. How many here remember these?

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Old 03-31-2012, 08:59 PM   #204
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Re: The handlebar thread

Ross,

What happened with your Renthal Road Medium bars?

Do you like them?

Thanks!

llcarr78
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:03 PM   #205
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Re: The handlebar thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross.Moorhouse View Post
This is my take on what you did.
Nicely done!

I think it looks good.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:35 PM   #206
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Re: The handlebar thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by llcarr78 View Post
Ross,

What happened with your Renthal Road Medium bars?

Do you like them?

Thanks!

llcarr78
I loved them. But they got bent when I had to pick the 1200 up after it rolled off the sidestand.
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:38 PM   #207
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Re: The handlebar thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alton View Post
Nicely done!

I think it looks good.
Cheers mate you inspired me with how simple your risers are.

I changed from 4 washers to 2 washers today. Then did 100km ride just now and they are really comfy.
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:21 PM   #208
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Re: The handlebar thread

I threw a set of these 30mm Tusk risers ($23 with bolts) under the stock bars. Weekend long ride coming up to test them out.
They work fine with the stock wires/brake and clutch lines. Even gained some more clearance on the left DL-1000 hand guard.
Will be trying a Daytona chrome bar with heated elements soon.

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Old 10-11-2013, 08:28 AM   #209
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Re: The handlebar thread

I have the 1 inch Vstrom ebay risers myself and for a few bucks they made a huge difference!
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:35 AM   #210
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Re: The handlebar thread

I left the chrome Daytona bar at it's stock length, drilled the control pin holes and changed the grips with added heated element. With the above photo 30 mm risers I did need to re-route the throttle cables (no problem as the throttle assembly was apart) and got rid of the "coat hanger" guides. All stock controls with only the front brake line needing some rotation to work.
MUCH better riding position and wrist angle with a bit more leverage with no added vibration (oops I said the "V" word)
Under $50 for the bars and risers.
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:50 AM   #211
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Re: The handlebar thread

I was concerned about drilling for the control pins until I took it apart and noticed they were broken INTO the factory bars but after tightening down everything they aren't loose so life is good!
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Old 11-05-2013, 03:39 PM   #212
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Re: The handlebar thread

To contribute, I installed a protaper 7/8 SE bar on my bandit. It was $63 shipped from amazon. This is the "Honda mini" bend, but if I were to do it again, I would have likely done the Raptor bend which is almost the same, but taller.



This is the old photo when I first installed it. I rotated the bars down towards the rider a bit and it's more comfortable. The bar is almost straight and wrists don't hurt

I made my own bar end adapters using mostly stock hardware and some fuel line:



I have also removed the center cross bar with foam

http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88582
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Old 03-22-2018, 05:07 PM   #213
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Re: The handlebar thread

Resurrecting this old thread:
Thought I had a workable setup: stock bars, Holeshot 1 3/8" risers, and Strom guards. To get a little better seating position on long trips, I then added the MetrickMechanic up-and-back risers on top of the Holeshot risers. This put the bar in a better place, but it seems that the "stack" of risers helps amplify wheel vibration alarmingly. This becomes especially noticeable above about 85: not a problem here in the East, but there are lots of places out West where you can cruise faster than that safely and for long periods of time.
Just to check, I removed the MM pieces and sure enough the vibration became less obnoxious, but it's still there. Got a dial indicator and discovered my wheels, tire and rotors are nowhere close to out of spec. Since I just had a dealer do a full chassis check about 5k miles ago, I tend to discount the possibility of a loose head or wheel bearing.
Dale suggested dropping the risers and going with his "Touring Comfort" bar, and he's never been wrong yet. But, that's a lot of $ to pay for a bar that will then need further work to fit the guards and switch assemblies.
So I'm looking for suggestions and experiences from the board. Also want to make sure I've got the right dimensions for the stock bars before buying any others. My records show 26" wide, 6" pullback, and 3" rise for the stockers.
Any comments?
tia,
t110 - 2008 1250SA bagger, full Cogent chassis, Holeshot seat, nerfs, header, and Stage II.
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Old 03-30-2018, 01:13 PM   #214
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Re: The handlebar thread

I'd like to piggy back on t110's post above. I too would like to both pull back and raise the bar on my 1250.

I've read this entire thread from start to finish; risers, pull backs, risers and pull backs, after market bars, cables, hoses, wiring. Whew.

My goal is a more upright position. Can anyone suggest a combination that provide the most rise and pull back without replacing the cables and hoses?

Many thanks....
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Old 03-30-2018, 02:34 PM   #215
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Re: The handlebar thread

When I bought the Holeshot risers they came with a longer primary hose. It worked for the HS riser and also for the MM add-ons. Hose dimensions are different depending on whether you have ABS. You can also reroute some of the hoses and cables for better use of existing parts. This is especially true for adding the Strom guards; I had to disassemble the throttle cable so it would run through the opening on the inner top of the guard. After some fiddling, it all worked with no binding or stretching..
So after removing half of my stack I still had vibration issues above 85. Following a suggestion on anotherthread, I put the bike on the center stand, shifted to 6th gear, and revved up to 100 mph. As I crossed 85 the wheel began to hop up and down. Bingo! there's the problem.
t110
Ps. With ABS you have a manifold that sends pressure to and from the ABS and both front calipers. This is where the longer hose from HS attaches. Strongly recommend anyone who has added hose check the connections on this manifold: they WILL loosen up over time.
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Old 03-30-2018, 04:05 PM   #216
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Re: The handlebar thread

Thanks for the info t110. Mine does have ABS and I realize only the M/C to distribution block hose would need to be replaced.

There were several mentions of the ROX bar risers mentioned earlier in this thread.

https://roxspeedfx.com/collections/a...-7-8-handlebar

These seem like they would do the trick for me as far as getting the bars up and back but it isn't clear if they would require lengthening the hoses, cables, and wiring.

If anyone has installed these and can comment I'd love the feedback.
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Old 03-31-2018, 07:03 AM   #217
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Re: The handlebar thread

I just installed the ROX risers, replacing the straight Tusk riser blocks.
The stock brake line from the master cylinder to the junction (ABS) needs to be longer (17-18) for the ROX risers as the stock brake line was at its limit using the Tusk blocks.
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Old 03-31-2018, 08:06 AM   #218
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Re: The handlebar thread

Thanks for chiming in TD. Did you use the 2" ROX risers? Any other challenges aside from the longer brake line?

If you already replaced the M/C to distribution block line I'd really appreciate knowing where you got it and what the P/N is.

Regards,

Dan
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Old 03-31-2018, 09:38 PM   #219
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Re: The handlebar thread

45 cm brake line. http://https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-3...72.m2749.l2649
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2013 BMW GS 650 Sertao
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1974 Kawasaki H-1 500
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Old 04-01-2018, 07:39 AM   #220
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Re: The handlebar thread

Thanks again TD, but the link doesn't seem to be working.
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