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The DR/DRZ Thread

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631f433f21d97f28af773f38931e8add.jpg


Bout this rack at Cycle Gear today. I don't have a trailer and my truck bed is too short to load the DR. It took about 30 minutes to assemble,and it's super easy to load the bike. The rack is on sale right now for 129.

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ICDRrider said:
631f433f21d97f28af773f38931e8add.jpg


Bout this rack at Cycle Gear today. I don't have a trailer and my truck bed is too short to load the DR. It took about 30 minutes to assemble,and it's super easy to load the bike. The rack is on sale right now for 129.

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



I have the same one and made a light rack for the back.
f5fd3e6643f367c35620568572fea172.jpg
 
You are quite a ways away. Would you mind sending me some close up pics? I have access to a welder.

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ICDRrider said:
631f433f21d97f28af773f38931e8add.jpg


Bout this rack at Cycle Gear today. I don't have a trailer and my truck bed is too short to load the DR. It took about 30 minutes to assemble,and it's super easy to load the bike. The rack is on sale right now for 129.

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

If no Cycle Gear is nearby, the same rack is $119 at WalMart.
 
Sorry for the delay on my response (DRZ400e carb rebuild, questions, and failure to start after reassembly). I was out of town and couldn't continue my diagnosis.
So today I went back to basics. Fuel, air, spark one of these is the problem. Since I could spray gas into the carb I felt confident that it should at least show some kind of life, but no. So I checked the spark at the plug and there was none. I followed the wiring back to the ECU or CDI and saw the problem. Last summer I replaced the stator with an aftermarket stator and the connection to this is not exactly the same. Meaning it does not have a locking tab on the connection from the stator. Somehow it had worked itself loose enough to break connection. I pushed it back to snug and it fired right up. Yippee! Seems to run good while in my garage. A little more sensitive to cold running (choke a must), but when warm it revs good, and idles.
Now I need to find a way to secure this electrical connection without the locking tab.
 
ICDRrider said:
You are quite a ways away. Would you mind sending me some close up pics? I have access to a welder.

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Click to expand...



Sure I can do that ....
You just need about 8 feet of 1/2 inch steel tubing and a set of trailer lights with the license plate holder.. total cost should be around 40.00 dollars.
 
My electrical problems have reared its head again. My voltmeter showed anywhere from 10 to 12 volts while running so after my last ride the battery was too weak to spin the starter fast enough to start. After running down the tests from battery to stator I see that the stator is dead. This is the second stator from Electrosport. So I am going to take the advice given to me on this forum and order a Ricky Stator. I am not happy.
:argh:
 
rickmillertx said:
My electrical problems have reared its head again. My voltmeter showed anywhere from 10 to 12 volts while running so after my last ride the battery was too weak to spin the starter fast enough to start. After running down the tests from battery to stator I see that the stator is dead. This is the second stator from Electrosport. So I am going to take the advice given to me on this forum and order a Ricky Stator. I am not happy.
:argh:
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Just curious what all extra's you might be running on yours? Right now mine doesn't have anything but a tender lead on it but i have the plate to add some switches and plugs for USB and cig charger and was just curious how soon that is going to bomb out my stator if I do so.
 
Maybe that is what I am doing wrong. I have head lights, turn signals, brake lights, and a Spal radiator fan.
 
rickmillertx said:
My electrical problems have reared its head again. My voltmeter showed anywhere from 10 to 12 volts while running so after my last ride the battery was too weak to spin the starter fast enough to start. After running down the tests from battery to stator I see that the stator is dead. This is the second stator from Electrosport. So I am going to take the advice given to me on this forum and order a Ricky Stator. I am not happy.
:argh:
Click to expand...

I have not shared long term test results yet in a white paper but I have seen enough so far to recommend a Regulator/ Rectifier change as well for best possible service life from a new stator.

New stator, coupled with the direct wiring of the RR charge wires to battery and an upgraded plug for stator / RR wiring plus a new style Shindengen SH775 or SH847 switching style regulator rectifier has shown long term promise.
 
Well, I don't want to spoil the context... Mines a dr650 and I suspect you guys are talking about another DR type.... Came with all the lights and stuff. I think the most I will add to it is that connector plate but will probably only really ever use it for cell phone charging and gps functionality.
 
E.Marquez said:
I have not shared long term test results yet in a white paper but I have seen enough so far to recommend a Regulator/ Rectifier change as well for best possible service life from a new stator.

New stator, coupled with the direct wiring of the RR charge wires to battery and an upgraded plug for stator / RR wiring plus a new style Shindengen SH775 or SH847 switching style regulator rectifier has shown long term promise.
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I love it when you talk sexy in these threads! ;-)
 
I am taking your advice and ordering the Ricky Stator and SH847 rectifier for my DRZ400e. I hope this ends my problems.
 
rickmillertx said:
I am taking your advice and ordering the Ricky Stator and SH847 rectifier for my DRZ400e. I hope this ends my problems.
Click to expand...

Either of the SH regulator rectifiers models will work for the DRZ power needs, so buy which ever one you can find cheapest.

If you need a source for connectors and or crimping tools let me knew, we can work something out.
 
Received my Ricky Stator today and tore into the bike. I found why I had a failure. I take part credit but Electrosport should share the blame. If you remember I said the first stator Electrosport sent me had a cut wire in the harness (I now believe another rider tried to make it fit and cut the wire trying) so the second stator they sent was a ***** to route the wiring harness. The wires were too short to go directly under the metal covers used by Suzuki. The wires would not follow the channels provided in the case. Anyway, I installed it and it looked like clearance was okay. It wasn't. As you can see from the photo the spinning magnet was touching the wiring and after a couple of months it wore through the sheath and shorted out.
The new Ricky Stator fit perfectly. Wires went in the channels and all went in perfectly. Even the connection to the CDI snapped in correctly. Electorsport connection had to be zip tied together.
I am back getting my 14 volts so hopefully this problem is put to bed.

Failure point
badstator2.jpg
 
Super common occurrence with the off brand stators. Fit , incorrect plug wiring, shoddy build....

And yup as you found, wires placed under the OEM guide is a must.
Glad you got it worked out and back on the road.
:giveup:
rickmillertx said:
Received my Ricky Stator today and tore into the bike. I found why I had a failure. I take part credit but Electrosport should share the blame. If you remember I said the first stator Electrosport sent me had a cut wire in the harness (I now believe another rider tried to make it fit and cut the wire trying) so the second stator they sent was a ***** to route the wiring harness. The wires were too short to go directly under the metal covers used by Suzuki. The wires would not follow the channels provided in the case. Anyway, I installed it and it looked like clearance was okay. It wasn't. As you can see from the photo the spinning magnet was touching the wiring and after a couple of months it wore through the sheath and shorted out.
The new Ricky Stator fit perfectly. Wires went in the channels and all went in perfectly. Even the connection to the CDI snapped in correctly. Electorsport connection had to be zip tied together.
I am back getting my 14 volts so hopefully this problem is put to bed.

Failure point
badstator2.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Super common occurrence with the off brand stators. Fit , incorrect plug wiring, shoddy build....

And yup as you found, wires placed under the OEM guide is a must.
Glad you got it worked out and back on the road.
:giveup:
rickmillertx said:
Received my Ricky Stator today and tore into the bike. I found why I had a failure. I take part credit but Electrosport should share the blame. If you remember I said the first stator Electrosport sent me had a cut wire in the harness (I now believe another rider tried to make it fit and cut the wire trying) so the second stator they sent was a ***** to route the wiring harness. The wires were too short to go directly under the metal covers used by Suzuki. The wires would not follow the channels provided in the case. Anyway, I installed it and it looked like clearance was okay. It wasn't. As you can see from the photo the spinning magnet was touching the wiring and after a couple of months it wore through the sheath and shorted out.
The new Ricky Stator fit perfectly. Wires went in the channels and all went in perfectly. Even the connection to the CDI snapped in correctly. Electorsport connection had to be zip tied together.
I am back getting my 14 volts so hopefully this problem is put to bed.

Failure point
badstator2.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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