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The Phenix Oiler

Joined
Aug 31, 2007
Messages
1,023
Reaction score
10
Location
Beaumont, Texas
First Name
Ken
Last Name
Phenix
THIS IS NOT AN OIL THREAD! USE WHATEVER BRAND CHAIN LUBE YOU LIKE. :giveup:

Manually lubing a motorcycle chain while on an Iron Butt ride consumes precious time - and even more time with no center stand. Having the ability to lube the chain while in motion makes sense. It is known that automatic chain oilers increase chain life by a factor of 2 or even 3. However, the models I looked at were either expensive, complicated, messy or even unreliable. I sought to find a simpler cheaper more dependable system.

ASSUMPTION #1
I decided to treat a chain lube test found on page 58 of the Winter 2013 issue of Iron Butt Magazine as gospel. The basis was simple: heat is caused by friction. Dupont Teflon, Blue Label PJ-1, WD-40 and Scott Oiler with ATF were compared by taking temperature readings with an infrared thermometer at both sprockets and several points on the chain. Readings were taken at 37 and 73 miles of constant highway speed. The results were surprising. The lowest temperatures measured were a virtual tie between the Scott oiler and WD-40! There was barely 10 degrees separating the field and conditions did not involve dirt or rain. My beloved PJ-1 came in last.
IBM%20winter%202013-L.jpg


ASSUMPTION #2
I also remembered where an ADV inmate had soaked identical o-rings in popular lubricants for a month and then measured them. The LEAST degradation occurred in the o-ring immersed in, you guessed it, WD-40. PJ-1 was almost as good. Other o-rings were visibly swollen. Thank you klm4755. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345397
o%20ring%20test-L.jpg


Convinced that it was at least not harmful to o-rings, I decided to test the WD-40 on a trip. I wanted a way to quickly lube the chain during a SS2000 from Southeast Texas to the west coast, so I fashioned a pouch on the front of my left pannier to hold the can and I gave the exposed parts of the chain a liberal application at every gas stop. It took seconds and not only did the chain never run dry, it required NO ADJUSTMENT for the entire 4,848 mile trip! And the chain was not new. The EK brand 530zzz x-ring rated at 11,000# had over 10k on it when I started. I carried a can of Blue Label PJ-1 in case I encountered rain.

My criteria for a chain oiler are that it must be: safe, simple, cheap, readily available and above all easy to operate. I decided to incorporate both WD-40 and PJ-1. I fashioned a mount from flat 1" aluminum and hose clamps to hold the cans to the front of my left pannier. I used the smallest weed wacker fuel line to deliver the lube to the chain.
OILER%2011-XL.jpg


I filed grooves into the end of an aluminum spacer and cut sections of the PJ-1's little red straw to be held in place by a bolt and washer.
OILER%2012-XL.png

OILER%2013-XL.png


I attached the "nozzle" to the front of the bike's chain guard.
OILER%2014-XL.png


I bolted small hinged hasps above each can of lubricant to act as paddles for easy left thumb access while in motion. I need only to push down on the top of the bag.
OILER%2017-XL.png


Then I covered the rig with a small zippered tool pouch so I wouldn't have to explain what I had done to absolutely everybody at every stop. :lol2:
OILER%2016-XL.png


On my next BBG1500 attempt I plan to give the chain a 2 or 3 second burst as I pull into each fuel stop. I can alternate between the cans and use more PJ-1 in wet conditions. To clean the chain I can soak it with WD-40 before coming to a stop and wipe it down with a rag. Stay tuned for the test.

http://kphenix.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/The...Oiler/i-PZt2BJ7
 
Impressive Ken!

This finally proves that all you need for sufficient chain lubrication is a squirt of WD40 at the end of a riding day.

I like your manual oiling device.

:clap:

RB
 
Clever boy. :) Are both cans connected all the time (manifold?), or do you have to somehow switch between them?

Thanks. The two cans are isolated with two pieces of weed waker fuel line down to the chain. I just pick which paddle I'm in the mood to push. :-P
 
Impressive Ken!

This finally proves that all you need for sufficient chain lubrication is a squirt of WD40 at the end of a riding day.

I like your manual oiling device.

:clap:

RB
Thanks Red. I wanted to try to dispel the myth that WD-40 is harmful to o-rings. :mrgreen:
 
Very cool! I started using a Scottoiler about a year ago. Yep. I caved and paid the $$$.

Neat about the o-ring test too!
 
Ken, Imagine my surprise to find you sneaking around and cheating on the wristtwisters forum, lol... Great post man!!! I've become a big fan of wd-40 for most anything, cleaning, preventing fingerprints, chain cleaning and oiling. I even use it a little on some carb parts on the non FI bikes, cleaning the fork tubes, shock cleaning... The list goes on and on. I was really sold on wd-40 after that trip!!!

:clap:
 
Ken, Imagine my surprise to find you sneaking around and cheating on the wristtwisters forum, lol... Great post man!!!
:clap:

Thanks RP. Yeah I was a member here long before I got my beloved 919. I'll post this idea over there too.;-)
 
...
ASSUMPTION #1
I decided to treat a chain lube test found on page 58 of the Winter 2013 issue of Iron Butt Magazine as gospel. The basis was simple: heat is caused by friction. Dupont Teflon, Blue Label PJ-1, WD-40 and Scott Oiler with ATF were compared by taking temperature readings with an infrared thermometer at both sprockets and several points on the chain. Readings were taken at 37 and 73 miles of constant highway speed. The results were surprising. The lowest temperatures measured were a virtual tie between the Scott oiler and WD-40! There was barely 10 degrees separating the field and conditions did not involve dirt or rain...


Ingenius little set-up there that fits your needs.

I don't have access to the article above and curious. Does it state the actual temperature readings recorded and was there a control test done without any lube whatsoever?

_
 
Ingenius little set-up there that fits your needs.

I don't have access to the article above and curious. Does it state the actual temperature readings recorded and was there a control test done without any lube whatsoever?

_
I don't have it in front of me at the moment but yes, they did "dry" runs first to establish a control set. As I recall those numbers were at least 10 degrees higher. In the 37 mile test the WD-40 was actually a little cooler than the Scott oiler. Their readings from the 73 mile runs were almost identical. The author speculated that evaporation of the WD-40 might actually dissipate some heat but it was a temporary effect. I figure I can take advantage of that too by giving the chain a little shot every 50 miles or so. Heck, why not? The stuff is cheap. :lol2:

BTW: One doesn't have be an IBA member to subscribe to the rag. Every issue is chocked full of good stuff like this. Back issues are available too. :trust:
 
Hey Ken, sadly I do not sub to that magazine but what did they have to say about the oil change intervals if you recall?
 
Hey Ken, sadly I do not sub to that magazine but what did they have to say about the oil change intervals if you recall?

OH GOD! OIL THREAD ALERT! :rofl:

I think the gist of it is the more miles you log the longer your oil change interval can be. Iron Butt Rally participants doing 1,000+ miles per day can easily put 15k on an oil change with virtually no viscosity breakdown. They recommend having your used oil analyzed by Blackstone Labs to eliminate guesswork in time/mileage. IMHO Oil breakdown has more to do with the duration of exposure to the elements, dirt, humidity, etc. than the odometer. I did 10k on one oil change in two months and didn't think twice about it. But if a bike only sees 500 miles a month, a much shorter mileage interval like 3 to 5k is recommended. If I'm not touring I change oil at 5k by the odometer.
 
Why didn't you use WD-40 in the rain? It's name is "water displacement".

Mike
 
Ken I refrain from using Blackstone labs and prefer to use my finger and if it tastes like chocolate pudding then I change it and spend the rest of the weekend fudging my huggies...

:loco:
 
Rain ride yesterday. A couple of shots of WD-40 and life is good. :rider:

WP_20141014_09_30_36_Pro-XL.jpg


I may not need the PJ-1 at all.
 
The Loob-man oiler on my bike does a great job - similar principle of operation. After trying 90W gear oil, 40w motor oil, and a slew of other concoctions I settled on a custom blend of 2 parts tranny fluid to one part WD-40. Worked great - lubed and cleaned at the same time. Any fling was easily wiped up with a paper towel.

If I had a way to apply on the fly I wouldn't have hesitated to use WD-40 by itself. I do like that idea of a can mounted some where accessible. PJ-1 is pure evil IMHO.
 
The Loob-man oiler on my bike does a great job - similar principle of operation. After trying 90W gear oil, 40w motor oil, and a slew of other concoctions I settled on a custom blend of 2 parts tranny fluid to one part WD-40. Worked great - lubed and cleaned at the same time. Any fling was easily wiped up with a paper towel.

If I had a way to apply on the fly I wouldn't have hesitated to use WD-40 by itself. I do like that idea of a can mounted some where accessible. PJ-1 is pure evil IMHO.

Bravo! :clap: I'm a few steps behind you. I came to the realization a few days ago that the Loobman would give me the ability to mix atf and WD-40. And I have concluded the PJ-1 is definitely going away.

:rider:
 
The Phenix Oiler 2.0

First off, pleased with the performance of the WD-40 I decided I could get along without the PJ-1.

I discovered I had mounted the nozzle too close to the chain and there was contact - so much contact that it melted the Smart Straw closed at the tip.

WP_20141026_20_39_00_Pro__highres-XL.jpg


So I made a new (recycled an old) bracket and used a brass tube this time.

WP_20141026_20_43_59_Pro%5B1%5D-XL.jpg


I said goodbye to the pouch in favor of this modified welding rod can.
I cut off the threaded parts and the lid slides right over the base.

WP_20141026_21_01_22_Pro%5B1%5D-XL.jpg


I cut a slot in the side for the plumbing and added a retaining screw to hold the top on.

WP_20141026_21_01_51_Pro%5B1%5D-XL.jpg


Considering how many ways Edison learned the light bulb wouldn't work, I think I'm in pretty good shape here. :mrgreen:
 
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