2009 Fat Bob (FXDF) electrical issue

Swapped out the bars on a 2009 Harley Fat Bob (FXDF model) and had to disassemble the wiring inside the bars in order to remove them. Once we got the new bars on and redid the connections (we took pictures of the wiring before disassembling them) the bike starts up fine, but noticed the speedometer cuts out intermittently, the rear brake light doesn't light up when the level is pulled, the turn signals aren't working, and the hi-beam on the headlamps aren't either.

We quadruple checked the wiring in the connectors and everything is wired up correctly and I can't find any shorts anywhere so we're completely stumped on what this could be.

We have a service manual and some schematics that came with it but I can't make heads and tails of what exactly to look at. Schematic is found here http://i.imgur.com/2LO1xzP.png

We've also checked the fuses on the side of the bike, nothing blown, no wires pinched or anything either.

Quick run down of the issues, I'm sure they are all interconnected somehow but we just can't figure this out.

The headlamp works unless you put it into high beam, then it cuts out.
Speedometer works sometimes but will randomly shut off.
Brake running light is fine but doesn't light up when brake is pulled.
Turn signals don't work when button is pressed.

Anyone got a direction to go?

I would check your ground first. That's a pretty big list of failures to get wrong if you followed the pictures you took

Haven't checked the grounds yet, we're probably going to end up taking the tank off and tracing every wire.

All your symptoms point to GND1 and GND2. It has the note "Gnd to rear stud under electrical center".

The low beams and turn signals are on one ground. The speedometer and turn indicators are on another ground. The only place they come together is at the ground stud.

By the way, the horn doesn't work, either.

When multiple items are not working, it is likely a ground problem. With a bad ground, the circuit will find alternate paths to return to the battery. For example, if you've ever followed a car that had wonky brake/turn light action it is likely a ground problem.

Moekazi said:

All your symptoms point to GND1 and GND2. It has the note "Gnd to rear stud under electrical center".

The low beams and turn signals are on one ground. The speedometer and turn indicators are on another ground. The only place they come together is at the ground stud.

By the way, the horn doesn't work, either.

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The horn doesn't work either! Thanks so much for pointing me in the right direction.

dukey33 said:

When multiple items are not working, it is likely a ground problem. With a bad ground, the circuit will find alternate paths to return to the battery. For example, if you've ever followed a car that had wonky brake/turn light action it is likely a ground problem.

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Next thing we'll check is the grounds. Haven't checked those at all, just the stuff we messed with but that makes perfect sense.

Sounds like a ground issue to me too.

Figured it out:

Accessories fuse was actually blown, couldn't tell without a light tester though; that fixed the speedo/horn/turn signals

Brake light was still messed up, figured out it was constantly on. Next to the lever the little rubber nipple that compresses when the brake lever is seated was worn down. Managed to slip some cardboard and some electrical tape to temporarily fix the issue.

cryogenic said:

Figured it out:

Accessories fuse was actually blown, couldn't tell without a light tester though; that fixed the speedo/horn/turn signals

Brake light was still messed up, figured out it was constantly on. Next to the lever the little rubber nipple that compresses when the brake lever is seated was worn down. Managed to slip some cardboard and some electrical tape to temporarily fix the issue.

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The little rubber nipple thingy is the cover on the rear brakelight microswitch (P/N 71590-96A, if it hasn't been superseded). It's really easy to bend the switch when doing something as simple as replacing the brake lever. Replacing the switch is sort of a pain, unless you really like soldering in tight places, and the last one I bought ('08, IIRC) was ~$30.

Just a FYI... When working on the front wheel of Harley's with a front fender tip light, be sure to get the front wheel spacers back on the proper side. Everything will work fine mechanically if they get swapped to the wrong side. But, one of the spacers is slightly longer than the other and can be confused as the same when just glancing at them. The longer one goes on the left side. If you get these on the wrong side, it can put the tire too close to the wire feeding the fender tip light. It will eat through the insulation, cause the wire to short to the fender, and blow the fuse controlling all of the lights (including the headlight) on the front end. And, yes, this is from experience.

Why not pick up a multimeter as it can do so much more than an electric ice pick?

wanabeguru said:

Why not pick up a multimeter as it can do so much more than an electric ice pick?

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I got a 21st century electric ice pick, It's digital!


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Leon: on the chance[yeah, I know!] that I'll show my age, does your digital icepick have a multimeter built in or....................? Maybe a picture?

wanabeguru said:

Leon: on the chance[yeah, I know!] that I'll show my age, does your digital icepick have a multimeter built in or....................? Maybe a picture?

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Google "snapon eect400" " digital circuit tester"
It initially looks like a standard ordinary snapon electric ice pick but the bulb has been replaced with a digital display module that works both ways so it can be used to test both *** and gnd circuits, it does light up like a regular one. Red for + and green for-.
It draws less than 10 milliamperes so it is computer safe.
I also have a fancy MAC one that is good for 3 to 48 volts but it does not work on reverse ground circuit testing.


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They are real handy under dashes or up on a ladder checking for power or bad grounds. And they handle being dropped better than the average fluke meter.


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focus frenzy said:

Google "snapon eect400" " digital circuit tester"
It initially looks like a standard ordinary snapon electric ice pick but the bulb has been replaced with a digital display module that works both ways so it can be used to test both *** and gnd circuits, it does light up like a regular one. Red for + and green for-.
It draws less than 10 milliamperes so it is computer safe.
I also have a fancy MAC one that is good for 3 to 48 volts but it does not work on reverse ground circuit testing.


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Click to expand...

Well, I'll be [place bad word here]! I was able to get a good picture. Kewl "pick". And disclaimer not for testing air bag ckts. Thanks for posting, Leon

It's probably that switch--the service manual tells you to stick a piece of 3/16" cardboard in the gap between the lever and switch when doing any maintenance on the switch gear/grips/lever to keep from damaging it.