- Joined
- Jun 27, 2007
- Messages
- 165
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Mi Casa es Su Casa, San Antone
- First Name
- Alejo
- Last Name
- Gonzalez
Well
The clutch friction plate replacement is pretty stratight forward
List of tools
A = 8 mm hex, but for good measure bring all of them next to the bike
B = 14 mm wrench, for the drain plug.
C = 10 mm socket, 12 mm socket. Cannot remember what I used the 12 mm for but just bring it along too.
D = Assorted pliers (no, it is not a specific measure), small cross screwdriver (phillips, size small ... ish)
E = Oil catch pan
F = Coolant Catch pan
G = Many rags
E = Silicone gasket making compound
F = 10, and 12 mm wrenches for clutch cable adjusting.
G = Beer for you and buddy on a friday night. And saturday afternoon.
#1 - Get a buddy to crawl under the bike for you so to remove the drain plug, removing all the oil.
#3 - Be sure that item "G" is in working order
Move left footpeg out of the way.
A bungee cord tied to the luggage rack will keep them out of the way. If you don't have a luggage rack get one; they are great to have!
Disconnect water hoses and tuck them away. Be sure to make a huge mess. Upper smaller hose needs to get the clip pinched with the pliers. Fat lower hose needs the scredriver
Proceed to remove all bolts that circunnavigate the case. Do not bother separating the water pump; unlike in the DL1000 above, it will not come off.
That retaining clip keeps the pump gear in place.
Get a prybar and in this manner separate the case cover from the case.
Grow a goatee in the meantime.
What follows is the empy clutch basket. No, I did not burn the clutch elements to oblivion, I was simply too busy to take a picture of it. Remove the 5 bolts and springs. Do not loose the friction bearing and washers from the clutch shaft at the center of the assembly, neither drop them in the old contaminated oil. DAMHIK.
Old versus new. The OEM element on the friction discs / plates is softer and has less gripping surface than the EBC brand
Regain courage; you almost there!!
Replace the clutch element friction discs and the plates into the basket. There are 7 friction discs and 6 flat steel plates. They are an uneven number, so the first and the last one are friction element plates. Re - assemble presure plate. Do not forget about the friction bearings that live at the center of the pressure plate. "Elbow tight" is about right.
Gaket issues. I would probably get a new gasket since I am at it, but the silicone red goo made my day. Bolt up everuting together, pay attention to follow to the doctor in this one; if you are using the red seal, leave it cruring overnight for optimal result.
More pics to come, see ya tomorrow!!
The clutch friction plate replacement is pretty stratight forward
List of tools
A = 8 mm hex, but for good measure bring all of them next to the bike
B = 14 mm wrench, for the drain plug.
C = 10 mm socket, 12 mm socket. Cannot remember what I used the 12 mm for but just bring it along too.
D = Assorted pliers (no, it is not a specific measure), small cross screwdriver (phillips, size small ... ish)
E = Oil catch pan
F = Coolant Catch pan
G = Many rags
E = Silicone gasket making compound
F = 10, and 12 mm wrenches for clutch cable adjusting.
G = Beer for you and buddy on a friday night. And saturday afternoon.
#1 - Get a buddy to crawl under the bike for you so to remove the drain plug, removing all the oil.
#3 - Be sure that item "G" is in working order
Move left footpeg out of the way.
A bungee cord tied to the luggage rack will keep them out of the way. If you don't have a luggage rack get one; they are great to have!
Disconnect water hoses and tuck them away. Be sure to make a huge mess. Upper smaller hose needs to get the clip pinched with the pliers. Fat lower hose needs the scredriver
Proceed to remove all bolts that circunnavigate the case. Do not bother separating the water pump; unlike in the DL1000 above, it will not come off.
That retaining clip keeps the pump gear in place.
Get a prybar and in this manner separate the case cover from the case.
Grow a goatee in the meantime.
What follows is the empy clutch basket. No, I did not burn the clutch elements to oblivion, I was simply too busy to take a picture of it. Remove the 5 bolts and springs. Do not loose the friction bearing and washers from the clutch shaft at the center of the assembly, neither drop them in the old contaminated oil. DAMHIK.
Old versus new. The OEM element on the friction discs / plates is softer and has less gripping surface than the EBC brand
Regain courage; you almost there!!
Replace the clutch element friction discs and the plates into the basket. There are 7 friction discs and 6 flat steel plates. They are an uneven number, so the first and the last one are friction element plates. Re - assemble presure plate. Do not forget about the friction bearings that live at the center of the pressure plate. "Elbow tight" is about right.
Gaket issues. I would probably get a new gasket since I am at it, but the silicone red goo made my day. Bolt up everuting together, pay attention to follow to the doctor in this one; if you are using the red seal, leave it cruring overnight for optimal result.
More pics to come, see ya tomorrow!!