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Bandit 1250 rear axle nut?

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FWIW, my torque wrench showed my axel nut was TOO TIGHT from using the toolkit wrench. I had adjusted chain and wanted the axel tight-by hand. YMMV, my .02
 
AutoXer.........I don't see how you can tighten a Bandit chain without loosening the rear axle nut. To tighten a chain, the axle hasta move, and if one doesn't loosen the axle nut, the axle ain't gonna move.

Yesterday I went to the dealer where I bought the 2016 1250 Bandit. Told them of the absence in my new tool kit of a 36MM tool to loosen axle nut.

First they mentioned that several Suzuki's no longer came with tool kit, or that they maybe came with an abbreviated tool kit. I wasn't too enthused about buying their story.

Then I remembered that they had a 2016 Bandit 1250 low mile demo. on the floor. I suggested we pull the tool kit of the demo and see what was there. We did. There was _NO_ 36mm tool in the tool bag. No spark plug wrench, either. Just the typical Japanese m/c cheap cheesy tools.

FjLee ...........Denver CO.........2016 Suz. 1250 Bandit.................1984 Yamaha FJ1100
 
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AutoXer said:
Try it, I didn't think it would move, but it does.
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it may move...........a few times........before the threads STRIP! ymmv, good luck. I find maintenance much easier not having to fight stripped threads! just sayin....................
 
I've tried today. Have to force it hard to move few mm. Not good. Just release the nut and it moved easily.
 
wanabeguru said:
it may move...........a few times........before the threads STRIP! ymmv, good luck. I find maintenance much easier not having to fight stripped threads! just sayin....................
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Understand perfectly, wanabeguru, and I agree - I don't want to fight stripped threads. I got this tip from another GSF1250 owner for whom it worked, and it worked on mine too once the axle nut was torqued to the proper spec and not over-torqued (some mechanics get crazy with an air wrench and apparently think "If 72 foot pounds is good then 250 foot pounds is better"). While it is a "firm" turn, it is not so difficult that I fear stripping the threads. Again, that's on mine of course.
 
If I might add some suggestion about how to solve your tool issue, I might add this comment. 1. if you have the factory issued wrench that in fact fits your axle nut and the extention that slips over the handle of the wrench, you might consider useing what ever tool you have handy to loosen the axle nut at home. Then use your tool kit wrench to tighten the nut to a tight setting you can apply on the road. Its not necessary to tighten the axle nut to a huge torque setting. I dont remember for sure about the bandit but it seems to me it employes a cotter key that goes through the axle to keep the nut from backing off from tight. With that cotter key you can count on it staying in place and not letting the axle nut leave the bike. If you tighten the axle nut to a torque setting you can remove with the stock tool available using the extension you should have at hand, you should not have any problem removing it on the side of the road. Bear in mind that if you have your chain adjusters set at the right tension and locked down the wheel is not going to walk around in the swing arm. Just saying.
 
Just thought of another suggestion. If your having a problem getting the factory size axle nut, go to a tool store, buy a box end wrench in the size needed. Take it home and cut it to about 6 or 7 inches in lenght from the end. Find a piece of pipe that the wrench handle will fit into. Use a hammer to flatten one end of the pipe to the point the shortened wrench handle will fit into the pipe. Those two pieces will solve your wrench problem. Try going to a pawn shop and see if they have the needed wrench size for the nut, pawn shop might be cheaper.
The pipe handle need only be maybe 6 or 7 inches in lenght to provide the needed torque setting for the axle nut. Problem solved.
 
Why don't you get what is known as a Ford wrench? They look like a pipe wrench with no teeth to leave marks. They are available in several lengths, and good for many uses.
 
I was just adjusting my chain today and had 2 questions:

1) Despite what Chris Mitchell seems to recall ("I don't remember for sure about the Bandit but it seems to me it employs a cotter key that goes through the axle to keep the nut from backing off from tight."), the 1250 Bandit does not have a cotter pin, nor holes to insert one. Why not?

2) There seems to be nothing in the OEM tool kit to loosen the front axle bolt (22mm) in case of a flat. Am I mistaken?

I bought a 12" long 22mm wrench which I keep in my top case, but what do you guys use?
 
waz said:
I was just adjusting my chain today and had 2 questions:

2) There seems to be nothing in the OEM tool kit to loosen the front axle bolt (22mm) in case of a flat. Am I mistaken?
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Been street riding since 1983, never EVER had a flat on the front tire!
Don't know why but it just doesn't happen.
I don't know any other rider that had a front flat either.
I wouldn't even think about it.
 
Just for grins I will throw this out there. I have two 12" Crescent wrenches here,one is a Proto Brand wrench. The Proto opens just barely far enough to fit tight on the Bandit rear axle nut. It works fine.
 
Footdragger said:
Just for grins I will throw this out there. I have two 12" Crescent wrenches here,one is a Proto Brand wrench. The Proto opens just barely far enough to fit tight on the Bandit rear axle nut. It works fine.
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This is an interesting development! Are you speaking of a 36MM axle nut?
I have several 12" Crescents, and tried 'em all, and none of 'em fit the 36MM nut. I faintly considered grinding the jaws on 1 of the Crescents 'til it did fit. All of mine "almost" fit.

But..there is this.....Suz. sez that nut should be tightened to 72 ft/lbs. I don't
like using an open-end wrench on something that tight. I'd prefer a 6 point socket. A true honest 72 ft/lbs requires either a long wrench, or a long "cheater" bar.

I'm still puzzling over what I can carry permanently on my Bandit that'll work on the 36MM nut, and still be "packable", and not weigh a ton.

FjLee.........Denver,CO.......2016 big Bandit......1984 Yamaha FJ1100
 
I tourqed mine to 72lb ft, and then used a 36mm socket and my sliding T-handle to loosen. The t handle is about 10" long and I was able to loosen it by hand. For traveling I'll be using that setup, and in the rare case I have to adjust the chain on the road I'll use German torque (good'n-tight)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
fjlee said:
I have a 2016 USA Bandit 1250.

I periodically take motorcycle trips that cover lottsa miles, use lottsa time.

I like to be prepared for a possible chain adjustment or wheel removal while "on the road".

I'm wondering what is the best tool to carry to loosen/tighten that 36MM, 72 ft/lbs nut ? Seems like it's gonna take a heavy bulky tool to accomplish this?

FjLee Denver CO
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MTK39S/?tag=twowhetex-20
$19 packs flat and easy to zip tie or velco wrap in place
 
waz said:
I was just adjusting my chain today and had 2 questions:

1) Despite what Chris Mitchell seems to recall ("I don't remember for sure about the Bandit but it seems to me it employs a cotter key that goes through the axle to keep the nut from backing off from tight."), the 1250 Bandit does not have a cotter pin, nor holes to insert one. Why not?
Click to expand...

It uses a Fuji style Nut, an All-metal spring-lock hex nut, 360 degree Prevailing Torque.
attachment.php


These type of nuts can be used as replacement for most any application where a cotter pin is used. They do wear out though and loose their ability to retain against vibration.
They are also a better choice then "Nyloc nuts" if heat is close by.

If you are keeping the cotter pin style, consider safety pin locks

attachment.php


I use these on all 92 of my trainer bikes and scooters that don't have Fuji style locking nuts.

They are somewhat unsightly if that is a thing for you, and more susceptible to damage from debris you might encounter off road. But reusable and need no tools to install or remove.
 

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E.Marquez: thanks for the reply - I learned something new.

SoCalBandit: thank you for your reply as well.

It's interesting, but when I think back on my 40+ years of riding, I can't recall ever getting a front flat either. I'm sure it happens, but it must be a fairly rare occurrence.
 
wanabeguru said:
So...........my #26 post was a waste of time?
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No Sir, it was not. This is what I figured. FWIW my 2011 FA tool kit did come with the axle nut wrench and a slip-on extension. It kinda sucks that new Bandit tool kits are so lame. BTW, here is a 1 7/16 wrench (found on Amazon for 19 bucks):

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It's a pretty big thing, but it's packable I think. It's an option. A bulky, heavy option, but an option! I still think I would go cruising EBay for a OEM tool kit that had the axle nut wrench in it.
 
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