It's interesting you say that. I felt that way about the KLR compared to my AT and NC700X.
With Shinko 805's on all, I feel more comfortable going down gravel roads on the other two than the KLR. Same feeling. Just a weird vibe that it might go nuts any any time. At first I thought it was just newbie jitters, but then remembered I actually saw it happen following two KLR's through the dirt in the Hill Country back in May. They were all over the place while the AT stayed planted. I'll try to find the video.
I was hoping the Strom would be more planted than the KLR as I was going to suggest it to a friend as a first bike.
Suspension plays a BIG part in this. If the suspension is not properly setup for your weight, it can make the bike feel very nervous. My KLR changed dramatically when I removed the stock springs and replaced them with better springs. I also changed the fork oil and made sure the sag was set correctly front and rear. Prior to that, it felt twitchy and nervous. Making sure the steering head bearing is properly torqued also makes a difference. You cannot assume that just because a bike is new that all these things are how they should be. In fact, it is more likely that they are not than they are. I was more comfortable riding my big heavy R1150 GS through deep sand than the KLR. After I made the changes, it was like a different bike.
Suspension that might be perfect for one rider may be horrible for another rider. This is why you should get test rides on bikes whose owners are close to your size and who hopefully have their suspension setup properly. For some folks, the right out of the box settings on their bikes might be perfect. These are usually lighter people, like less than 180 lbs all up. For more typical riders, the suspension will be under sprung, under damped, and the preload will be to low. Ideally, when you are sitting on your bike with your feet on the pegs and not moving, the front and rear suspension should be compressed by 1/3 of its total stroke from fully unloaded (wheel off the ground) to max compression. IF the springs are too soft, as is the case with the stock suspension on many bikes (especially the KLR), then you will have a hard time getting it right.
I cannot stress enough how much proper suspension matters!!
With my strom, I redid the front forks with new springs and oil, and proper preload spacer length. That helped a lot. But even after that, the bike still did not feel right to me. This does not mean it would not feel perfect for another rider though. I just did not want to sink more money into the strom at the time because I was REALLY missing my R1150 GS and so instead I started shopping for a newer 1200 GS to replace the strom
Even on a "high end" bike like a BMW GS, getting the suspension right makes a BIG difference. My current bike has Ohlins front and rear. It is a night and day difference between the Ohlins and stock suspension. My GS is in no way good for rock crawling, but it is fantastic for dirt, gravel, and even sandy roads despite not having the 21" front tire.
Before you sell your KLR, you might want to spend 20-30 minutes setting the sag on the bike. You might need another person to help. It is very easy. There are tons of videos and websites that explain it. You might be amazed at the difference. I used to do big group rides through East Texas. Prior to leaving, we would often help people make sure their chains were tightened properly, their tires were inflated properly, and their suspension was set up properly. Quite often at gas stops, lunch, and at the end of the day I would get numerous comments from the riders about how much better their bikes felt and handled. And that was just for street riding.
Of course, if the clutch thing is what is really making you want to off load the KLR... never mind
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