• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

KTM Thumper Discussion

I would bet the valves are in spec. They hardly ever go out. However, they may not be sealing. Do a leak down. Air filter clean?

You know it was really dry and dusty, and I neglected cleaning the air filter before, hopefully that's it.
I'll borrow a compression tester and do a leak down.
 
Second thing I did was tie the subframe out of the way with bungie cords up over my garage door track. Of course 30 minutes later I'm coming in from outside and pop the garage door only to watch it rip the bike off the stand and dump it on the floor (the front wheel was off as well). I couldn't win for losin.

J


:rofl: I trying not to laugh but before I finished the sentence I knew what was going to happen. :doh: Been there, but I won't admit it. :eek2: :oops:
I have been tieing the bungie to the handlebars.
Glad to here you got it going again.
 
Last edited:
You know it was really dry and dusty, and I neglected cleaning the air filter before, hopefully that's it.
I'll borrow a compression tester and do a leak down.

Check the plug, with the warmer weather it may be getting rich. If so move the pilot down 1 step. If better, but still a little rich, adjust with the needle. Sam
 
Check the plug, with the warmer weather it may be getting rich. If so move the pilot down 1 step. If better, but still a little rich, adjust with the needle. Sam

So I think I may have found the source of my angst.

4ca4700d-d4fe-52f2.jpg


I'm not sure I know what you mean by "move the pilot down one step"
 
:rofl: I trying not to laugh but before I finished the sentence I new what was going to happen. :doh: Been there, but I won't admit it. :eek2: :oops:
I have been tieing the bungie to the handlebars.
Glad to here you got it going again.

I was busting a gut too!! :lol2: Totally sounds like something I would do :doh:
 
Juuuussssssstttt a tad bit rich. :lol2:

Lol yeah just a bit. I guess it could be part due to the can from an exc or something I recently put on. It has a sparky and the opening at the end is smaller.
I also wonder if it's the fuel stabilizer I put in the gas. It didn't start until I topped off with gas. The fuel that was in there was straight from the pump and when I topped off it had some Lucas fuel stabilizer in it.

So what do I need to do to lean it out a bit?
 
Could be the exhaust, but that's pretty rich. Is the plug wet? (that's the way it looks) Then most likely, just too much fuel or too little air. If it is dry and black, then I would look at the exhaust. Could be the gas, but usually we see the fuel causing clogging problems in the jets, so it would usually become lean. But that's not to say it could not have deposits on the float that weigh it down causing a higher than normal fuel level. :ponder: Are you seeing fuel coming out of the overflow at any time? If yes, pull the carb. If no, replace the plug, go ride it and then pull the plug after about 15 minutes of riding. Does it look wet and rich again, then pull the carb. Did you check your air filter and rule it out? I hate to keep coming back to the jetting, but... If you don't find the fuel level too high and no deposits in the bowl, then I go back to: warmer weather = less air density. You may have been a tad rich at 50 deg. but at 80 deg you are real rich. Swap to a one size smaller pilot. Then evaluate your midrange and adjust with needle. You may be rich on the top end also, which would necessitate a leaner main, but be careful, no high performance motorcycle likes to be too lean at high RPM. :trust:
Hopefully, someone may post up some other thoughts. You are going to need to do some investigating now. :scratch: Sam
 

That does not mean anything! To read a plug & select a main jet the motor MUST be shut off with the kill button at the same time the clutch is pulled in while it is running wide open. When jetting a bike start with the main jet, then the needle, then the slide cut away & finally the idle jet.

Reading the plug only works well with the main jet, although you can get an idea with the others, but it is not accurate. The others are a matter of feel. If it blubbers it's to rich, if it back fires it may be to lean & how it runs.
 
Once started it ran fine. No sputtering, backfiring or anything. I didn't feel a drop in power. It was just getting difficult to start: several kicks as opposed to just one or two at the beginning of the day.

I cleaned the carb a few days before, but I'm going to pull it and see what the pilot jet looks like.
There appears to be debris or something on the plug, so I'm wondering if Ive got some sludge or something going on in the tank or if dirt is making it past the air filter. :ponder:
 
On my buddy's 525EXC when it gets hard to start he adjusts valves. Works every time for him. The only thing he constantly has to tinker with. That's all I know about KTM :-)
 
Is there any 690 riders out there that would like info on changing your trail. I changed mine a couple of weeks ago, and wondered if anyone else wanted this info. Sam
 
I would like your impressions, even though I don't ride a 690.
 
We are headed to Ark. next week. So a full report will have to wait.
My 690 was equipped with a triple clamp that could have 22 or 24 mm trail. From the factory it had 24. Could never turn real tight, as you witnessed at your Bastrop ride. :haha: Anyway, I thought 2mm difference was not worth the trouble. Even when I packed the steering head bearings before the labor day Ark. ride, I didn't change it. :shrug:
So after BB, I decided to change it, not sure why, still didn't think it would change that much.
On the Highway, which is all the riding I have do since the change, the chassis has a little more shimmy if you try to induce headshake, not bad but not as steady as it was. I also lifted the triple clamps on the forks. I had them down as low as .450 below the fork cap. Now I am .200. Still it steers tighter at a stop and slow speeds, not dirt bike tight, but I won't need 2.5 lanes to do a 180 anymore.
Sam
 
You 450 riders need to eventually do this to your sub-fender mounts.... :trust:

IMG2100-L.jpg


BTW, buddy just bought the KTM/Acerbis 3.4 gallon tank for pre-2008 RFS bikes and he says the seat doesn't even come close to fitting. Anybody have experience with this?
 
Several months ago I found a used 3.4 acebris tank for Wes's 05. The seller said seat and tank came together because 1 is useless without the other. :shrug: Wes said the new seat fit good but he didn't try his original seat, because he needed a new seat anyway.
Sam
 
I have a 2010 690R with an apparent electrical issue. Bike has just over 6K miles on it with no real issues to speak of until now. Just brought the bike back from a great 6 days of riding in Baja where it ran great. It did develop a small leak in the radiator. When I got back home I removed the radiator and had it repaired at a local shop. Reinstalled the radiator and rode the bike several times that day to test is out, no problems. Three days later I went to fire it up and it won’t start.

Here’s what I know:

Turn on the ignition (key)
  • Headlight comes on (both hi/low)
  • No tail light
  • Blinkers and horn work
  • Battery is reading 12.6v

Turn the on/off switch to “on” and can hear/feel one of the relays next to the battery engage.

  • Instrument cluster (speedometer) does not power up.
  • Motor will turn over but won’t start, sounds like no ignition.
  • Interlocks don’t seem to be functioning. With the bike in gear and kickstand down you can press the starter button (not holding in the clutch) and the bike will lurch forward.

Seems like the computer is not functioning. I checked all the fuses in the fuse box and also the main fuse on the starter relay but they were all good. Swapped the relay (relay that engages with the on/off switch) with another like relay but no change. Disconnected power to reset the computer, no change.

I’ve got a good dealer in town that I’ll take the bike to if I can’t get this figured out myself but thought I’d give it a go. Any suggestions?
 
BTW, buddy just bought the KTM/Acerbis 3.4 gallon tank for pre-2008 RFS bikes and he says the seat doesn't even come close to fitting. Anybody have experience with this?

Yup, there is another seat you are supposed to use with that tank.
 
I have a 2010 690R with an apparent electrical issue. Bike has just over 6K miles on it with no real issues to speak of until now. Just brought the bike back from a great 6 days of riding in Baja where it ran great. It did develop a small leak in the radiator. When I got back home I removed the radiator and had it repaired at a local shop. Reinstalled the radiator and rode the bike several times that day to test is out, no problems. Three days later I went to fire it up and it won’t start.

Here’s what I know:

Turn on the ignition (key)
  • Headlight comes on (both hi/low)
  • No tail light
  • Blinkers and horn work
  • Battery is reading 12.6v

Turn the on/off switch to “on” and can hear/feel one of the relays next to the battery engage.

  • Instrument cluster (speedometer) does not power up.
  • Motor will turn over but won’t start, sounds like no ignition.
  • Interlocks don’t seem to be functioning. With the bike in gear and kickstand down you can press the starter button (not holding in the clutch) and the bike will lurch forward.

Seems like the computer is not functioning. I checked all the fuses in the fuse box and also the main fuse on the starter relay but they were all good. Swapped the relay (relay that engages with the on/off switch) with another like relay but no change. Disconnected power to reset the computer, no change.

I’ve got a good dealer in town that I’ll take the bike to if I can’t get this figured out myself but thought I’d give it a go. Any suggestions?

Maybe a faulty kill switch. Might have got a lot of silt/sand in it from Baja. May want to pull it apart and clean it out real good.
 
Just saw the new 2012 specs for 690. Looks like KTM lowered the bike back down. It's 20mm (0.8 inch) lower than the 2011, according to the spec. 910mm in 2012 vs 930mm in 2011. Or maybe it's just a typo.

The 08 model 690 Endruro is 1" shorter then the 09 + 690R's.
 
I have a 2010 690R with an apparent electrical issue. Bike has just over 6K miles on it with no real issues to speak of until now. Just brought the bike back from a great 6 days of riding in Baja where it ran great. It did develop a small leak in the radiator. When I got back home I removed the radiator and had it repaired at a local shop. Reinstalled the radiator and rode the bike several times that day to test is out, no problems. Three days later I went to fire it up and it won’t start.

Here’s what I know:

Turn on the ignition (key)
  • Headlight comes on (both hi/low)
  • No tail light
  • Blinkers and horn work
  • Battery is reading 12.6v

Turn the on/off switch to “on” and can hear/feel one of the relays next to the battery engage.

  • Instrument cluster (speedometer) does not power up.
  • Motor will turn over but won’t start, sounds like no ignition.
  • Interlocks don’t seem to be functioning. With the bike in gear and kickstand down you can press the starter button (not holding in the clutch) and the bike will lurch forward.

Seems like the computer is not functioning. I checked all the fuses in the fuse box and also the main fuse on the starter relay but they were all good. Swapped the relay (relay that engages with the on/off switch) with another like relay but no change. Disconnected power to reset the computer, no change.

I’ve got a good dealer in town that I’ll take the bike to if I can’t get this figured out myself but thought I’d give it a go. Any suggestions?

Is the fuel pump running when you first turn the key on?
are you getting spark to the spark plug?
If you can engage the starter with the stand down, the switch isn't working.
There is another interlock switch on the clutch lever that might be the problem...
I don't know if that might be a bad switch or the computer black box has lost it's mind.
 
Scott, does the bike blink a code at you when you first turn it on? Buddy had a random electrical issue with his 690, turned out to be bad crimps on the ignition coil...
 
Maybe a faulty kill switch. Might have got a lot of silt/sand in it from Baja. May want to pull it apart and clean it out real good.

Forgot to mention that. There are two sets of contacts on the kill switch, they both ohmed out good.

Is the fuel pump running when you first turn the key on?
are you getting spark to the spark plug?
If you can engage the starter with the stand down, the switch isn't working.
There is another interlock switch on the clutch lever that might be the problem...
I don't know if that might be a bad switch or the computer black box has lost it's mind.

The fuel pump does not run so I'm assuming no power there either.

Haven't actually verified there is no spark (only assuming since power seems to be missing from several other components) but will check it when I get home. If definitely doesn't sound like it's getting any type of ignition.

Seems like neither the clutch or kickstand switch are working which makes me think the computer is not functioning and therefore not looking at them. Just guessing at this....

Scott, does the bike blink a code at you when you first turn it on? Buddy had a random electrical issue with his 690, turned out to be bad crimps on the ignition coil...

The instrument cluster never even powers up to show any type of code.


Thanks for the replies guys!
 
Back
Top