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The TWTex KTM thread.

It's actually not detuned....

Sx- motocross, close ratio 4sp, Kick only
Xc (racing)- motocross, close ratio 6sp (wired for lights)
Xc-w- same as XC, but wide ratio 6sp
Exc- same as Xc-w, but detuned, and has lights installed. (2007+ all the Exc models come street-legal)

The black excel rims are factory, as well as the WP suspension, brembo brakes, and magura hydraulic clutch. ;-) gotta love KTM

You'll never look at your DRZ the same way again... I can tell you that. ;-)

Great info, thanks. Tomorrow I tear into it. The p.o. rode it once, scared himself silly, let it sit for 2 years. Hopefully all is well and no gas in engine. Updates coming soon!
 
I saw the one from Sicass as well. Exact same thing as the EE unit. It really easy to make the brake light work regardless of the lights, without cutting into the stock harness. I'll post up pics when I do it.

If I could find a source for those darn OEM plugs, I'd sell a plug-n-play that's actually safe.

Like these http://www.eagleday.com/miniconnectors.html

On mine I removed the wire from the plug for the power to the switch and went to the battery with an inline fuse so my brake light works anytime.
 
It's actually not detuned....

Sx- motocross, close ratio 4sp, Kick only
Xc (racing)- motocross, close ratio 6sp (wired for lights)
Xc-w- same as XC, but wide ratio 6sp
Exc- same as Xc-w, but detuned, and has lights installed. (2007+ all the Exc models come street-legal)

The black excel rims are factory, as well as the WP suspension, brembo brakes, and magura hydraulic clutch. ;-) gotta love KTM

You'll never look at your DRZ the same way again... I can tell you that. ;-)

Back in 2008.....they were 5 speeds.
 
Back in 2008.....they were 5 speeds.

Actually, what I said mainly applies to RFS gen bikes, pre 07. I know the idea of the models stayed the same '08+, (and they started using F as a designator for 4t bikes.)
 
So I made a mount for my LED light bar today. I'm not going to run it until the DC conversion, which is this winter. I am installing an LED tail light, but plan on installing a diode on the ground side to keep from messing it up with the bikes stock AC current.

Actually that reminds me.... What can't I use 4 diodes, and make a full wave bridge rectifier for the headlight? Or buy one? Folks say to make the lighting circuit DC, you have to float the ground in the stator, but at some point that ground has to go through a wire to the light... Can I rectify that?

Anyhoo, the bracket isn't powdercoated yet, so sit tight

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Something is wrong with my welder, and its barely getting penetration. It's good enough to hold a 1lb led light though. I milled down some aluminum spacers to fit the bar clamps contour. That part looks nice.

IMG_20150827_113327711_zpsoum5ffqv.jpg
 
Well I get that, and yes, I guess essentially it will, BUT, not without probably burning them out.

If you read back, this bike already has a DC circuit, but its for the battery, and fan.

Floating the ground makes one big DC circuit.

Can't I just rectify the AC lighting circuit.

Also... The DC circuit, and the AC circuit both ground to the frame.
 
That light, on that mount, looks better than I expected. When I first read what you were going to attempt, I figured it would look pretty bad, but it turned out pretty good.

Keep going. I'm (for one) watching....
 
Thank you sir! It most likely won't be on there until the full DC conversion, but I had time to kill, and was tired of wondering how it'd look. I was skeptical at first as well, but am pretty satisfied with the outcome.

One bug effing problem though.... I won't be able to see my digital gauges.... No bueno
 
I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on the trail tech DC stator and reg/rec. Theres one on eBay for 120 shipped, msrp is almost 200. I'm gonna do it eventually anyways, why not now, right?
 
If you can swing it. It will make everything else you are wanting to do easier.
 
Today I had a little bit of time to do some stuff.

Mounted the hand guards.
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Then I swapped the lower gearing 13/51 (front and rear) for the stock stuff 14/48. Once I get it on the road, I'll make changes accordingly, but I'm sure it's fine where it is. I'm sure the tall first gear in this transmission is gonna piss me off, but we'll see. The clutch is so friggin awesome, I may be okay with it.

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Then.... Heh heh heh..... Then I killed this little demon, and her silken sac full of offspring.

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Let's see, still on its way here-
100w DC stator, and rectifier
Longer fuel screw
Tailight
Headlight
Switch
Brake switch
Ign cover gasket

It'll all be here this week, most of which is scheduled for delivery today and tomorrow.
 
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If any of you ktm guys are interested I have 06 450 exc sumo with dirt wheels and tires too that I would let go on the cheap. Sumo wheels and tires have less than 200 miles on them
 
Got most of my stuff in. Still waiting on the new trail tech DC stator, and reh/rec, but that should be friday

I wired this to have auxiliary power for my LED light bar, bit have it switched whenever you need highbeams.

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Tail light is way small.

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Exc headlight. Looks good.

IMG_20150901_154051881_HDR_zpssgj64g0m.jpg
 
Tail light may be way small, but it's enough to get plated, right?

With that EXC headlight, do you need to change the light bar mount?
 
No, the light bar mount will still work. I also moved the handlebar mounts back, so it gets even better.

I'm not sure if it'd pass inspection at a component motorcycle dealership, that really knows what they're doing, but I'm certainly not gonna let one of THOSE inspect my bike. Lol. Im not even gonna worry about DOT tires.

"I came here for the sticker, not the inspection!"
 
Okay, got the lights done. 7" 35w LED light bar. It comes on with the high beams. Hol-lee sheet, this thing is bright. Lit up my neighbors backyard, 4 houses down.
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I may hook unplug the headlight 'Hi' power wire, cause when both are on, its laying waste to 70w. Lol
 
do you know if you can re-jet the bike by just removing the float bowl like on the XR400?
 
You need to take a hair dryer to those awful graphics on the fender there. Otherwise, looking sweet.
 
TX white knight- yes you can. Loosen the clamps, and rotte the bottom of the carb to the left as much as possible. Which isn't much.

Honestly, the easiest way to remove the carb is----

+Pull the seat
+Loosen the muffler, and rotate it ccw (if look at it from rear)
+Remove upper subframe bolt
+loosen bottom two

Pull the subframe back, and down. Gives alot more room to get to the carb. Once you've done this 2-3 times, you get really fast at it. I could walk up to my Xr, and 5 minutes later have the carb in my hand
 
Also, I installed this, and quickly realized it will block the TT Vapor, almost 100%.

So I may not ever use it.
 
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