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Kawasaki Concours owners/riders mega thread

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RichnSteph said:
It seems to be running Ok. No miss or anything like that. It is rather slow to accelerate though but equated that to a 997 cc engine in a heavy bike. I do ride like a dingbat some days. I mean who can really resist the open highway early in the morning with no one else on the road.

The carbs might need cleaning or something. I'll try to get some new spark plugs in it this weekend and see if that helps.
Click to expand...

Fresh plugs will always help a little but if your Connie was sitting for any period before you got it - only takes a couple months - those multiple tiny carb runs are going to be plugged or partially blocked. And if you thought slipping those airbox boots back on was a pain, try pulling the carb rack for rebuild. :brainsnap

Try this when you have some time to let it sit for a few days:
1 Fill the tank and drop about a third of a bottle of Seafoam in it (way over done but it'll work faster).
2 Take it for a +20 mile spin. At some point it'll start running rougher.
3 Let it sit with the loaded gas in the carbs for several days. DO NOT leave it for months as Seafoam will indiscriminately eat carb gaskets too.
4 Run out the whole tank after that and +20 on a fresh tank. If you can do it in one sitting, it'll help because the extra heat will help the Seafoam scrub out the varnish.
If you ever need to leave it sit for extended time, drop some marine Stabil in the tank run the engine until it's in the carbs. This stuff won't eat the gaskets...but it also does nothing for cleaning.

Other things I'd recommend are a fuel filter between tank and carbs. The screen on the petcock does nothing. Plus a valve adjustement and carb sync. Connies are quite touchy. And my carbs are sync'd at 4k, not idle. Helps with my buzz.

From your MPG description you'll probably find carbon'd plugs...you're running rich. If you still have the factory plugs in the pilot screw holes, you have an air leak. Connies breath best with restricted air flow. Easy to check with a can of engine starter and swap a carb cleaner head/tube on it. At idle, focus tiny bursts on the rubbers before and after the carbs...and where the airboots attach to the airbox...and the air filter door. When you get those fixed idle will go up and you can check your MPG again. If it's still less than 35, try partially blocking the airbox snorkel.

Having had mine since 2000, I have a lot of maintenance tips. Mine is not a showroom bike - especially now that she's naked again - but any time I want the old girl to dance, she can do it. :trust:
 
Mine has never been great, but it's better than that. I typically get between 35 and 38. Mine have been reworked by shouldaben, but I didn't notice any change in mileage after. I haven't dialed them in as well as I would have liked to, but I don't think it will make much difference when I do.

I'm betting that if you are running that low, you likely have an air leak and the boots are a good bet as to where. Take some carb cleaner or something and spray around that area with it running and listen for a change in pitch or speed from the engine. That carb rack is a real bear to mess with and the boots are very prone to hardening and cracking.
 
rhodyne said:
Fresh plugs will always help a little but if your Connie was sitting for any period before you got it - only takes a couple months - those multiple tiny carb runs are going to be plugged or partially blocked. And if you thought slipping those airbox boots back on was a pain, try pulling the carb rack for rebuild. :brainsnap

Try this when you have some time to let it sit for a few days:
1 Fill the tank and drop about a third of a bottle of Seafoam in it (way over done but it'll work faster).
2 Take it for a +20 mile spin. At some point it'll start running rougher.
3 Let it sit with the loaded gas in the carbs for several days. DO NOT leave it for months as Seafoam will indiscriminately eat carb gaskets too.
4 Run out the whole tank after that and +20 on a fresh tank. If you can do it in one sitting, it'll help because the extra heat will help the Seafoam scrub out the varnish.
If you ever need to leave it sit for extended time, drop some marine Stabil in the tank run the engine until it's in the carbs. This stuff won't eat the gaskets...but it also does nothing for cleaning.

Other things I'd recommend are a fuel filter between tank and carbs. The screen on the petcock does nothing. Plus a valve adjustement and carb sync. Connies are quite touchy. And my carbs are sync'd at 4k, not idle. Helps with my buzz.

From your MPG description you'll probably find carbon'd plugs...you're running rich. If you still have the factory plugs in the pilot screw holes, you have an air leak. Connies breath best with restricted air flow. Easy to check with a can of engine starter and swap a carb cleaner head/tube on it. At idle, focus tiny bursts on the rubbers before and after the carbs...and where the airboots attach to the airbox...and the air filter door. When you get those fixed idle will go up and you can check your MPG again. If it's still less than 35, try partially blocking the airbox snorkel.

Having had mine since 2000, I have a lot of maintenance tips. Mine is not a showroom bike - especially now that she's naked again - but any time I want the old girl to dance, she can do it. :trust:
Click to expand...

And like I said before get a buddy to help you and it will be a lot easier if you have to pull the carbs.
 
Sorry for running on a bit disjointed there - doing it off the top of my head while at work so...

And it's funny that mbrew and I both came up with "air leak" at almost the same time. ;-)


Drew, I'm up for a wrenching session some Sunday when you are ready to tackle that valve adjustment. And we can look into your kickstand then too.
 
Pulled one of the plugs and it looks OK. Put it back together and while it was idling I.sprayed everything I could with WD40 and the idle didn't change. The bike is running rich. Rich enough that I can smell it at idle and I think that's why it gets bad mileage. So... how do you adjust the mixture on 4 carbs at once?
 
RichnSteph said:
Pulled one of the plugs and it looks OK. Put it back together and while it was idling I.sprayed everything I could with WD40 and the idle didn't change. The bike is running rich. Rich enough that I can smell it at idle and I think that's why it gets bad mileage. So... how do you adjust the mixture on 4 carbs at once?
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Ah, smelling extra fuel at idle is a good one.

When it comes to adjusting air/fuel mix most will recommend "don't". Slippery slop once you start down.

But...since you are already running rich...

It's possible someone already did the washer mod or lowered the clip on your needles.
Pull the tank so you can get to one of the outer carb tops, carefully remove one (spring and clip in here), pull the slide (careful of the diaphram) and check the needle. Is it solid with a washer under the lip? Or does it have several slots and a circlip? If so they will all have them. This is the poormans version of oversize jets and will make her rich. Either remove the washers or raise the circlip so the needle reaches lower. Check response and mileage.

Another one, check to see if someone has half a big sponge stuffed in one of the airbox snorkels. Remove if so. Having it there gives snappier lower-end response at the expense of extra fuel.

If prior mods are not it then the popular option is to re-jet. If you are running rich, go with a smaller set than you currently have. Means pulling one to find what you have first.

This last one is the "real" one but is the hardest to do.
Bottom front of each carb is a port with the pilot screw in it. If no adjustments have ever been done to them they will be plugged still.
If you mess with these only turn 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time across all 4 and test. Clockwise (in) leans it out. And you will need to resync after messing with the pilot screws.
 
The saga continues....

The bike sat in a downpour on Monday although it stopped raining and dried up before I left for home. Went to start it up and it ran for three or four seconds and died. No dash lights no nothing. Pulled the access panel to look at the fuse box and after I jiggled a wire or two the dash lit up and I was on my way. Then this morning it did it again. Pulled the panel and the lights only come on if I'm shaking the fuse box. Had to leave it at home since I can't trust it. I'm guessing loose connection but the fact that it only did it after getting rained on might point to something else.

I'll let you folks know!

Edit: I pulled the fuse panel and couldn't find anything amiss. Did start pulling fuses to see if anything happened and did find something odd. When I pulled the 30 amp "main" fuse the bike idles better. The fuse is also so hot you can't touch it.

More tomorrow I'm sure.
 
RichnSteph said:
The saga continues....

The bike sat in a downpour on Monday although it stopped raining and dried up before I left for home. Went to start it up and it ran for three or four seconds and died. No dash lights no nothing. Pulled the access panel to look at the fuse box and after I jiggled a wire or two the dash lit up and I was on my way. Then this morning it did it again. Pulled the panel and the lights only come on if I'm shaking the fuse box. Had to leave it at home since I can't trust it. I'm guessing loose connection but the fact that it only did it after getting rained on might point to something else.

I'll let you folks know!

Edit: I pulled the fuse panel and couldn't find anything amiss. Did start pulling fuses to see if anything happened and did find something odd. When I pulled the 30 amp "main" fuse the bike idles better. The fuse is also so hot you can't touch it.

More tomorrow I'm sure.
Click to expand...

"jiggling" wires shouldn't have done diddly. That it did means you need to look over the wiring harness for nicks, cuts, corroded connectors, or worn sheathing.
Also look for any tightly pulled wires - wires that stay tightly stretched in use. What can happen there, your wire gets stretched and snaps some of the internal strands and you go from 7-15 strands to 2-3. This will cause wiring opposite the ground from those breaks to get hot.
And get some of that dielectric grease to put in all the connectors you can find. This will help keep water out of the electrical system and you won't be affected by rain or car washes.
If you have to repair wiring or splice anything in, solder/grease/shrink wrap it. Make short splices, flow solder as far up to the insulation as you can, quick dab of dielectric and shrink wrap it.

Has she been acting like a cold-starting bi...ke?
 
rhodyne said:
"jiggling" wires shouldn't have done diddly. That it did means you need to look over the wiring harness for nicks, cuts, corroded connectors, or worn sheathing.
Also look for any tightly pulled wires - wires that stay tightly stretched in use. What can happen there, your wire gets stretched and snaps some of the internal strands and you go from 7-15 strands to 2-3. This will cause wiring opposite the ground from those breaks to get hot.
And get some of that dielectric grease to put in all the connectors you can find. This will help keep water out of the electrical system and you won't be affected by rain or car washes.
If you have to repair wiring or splice anything in, solder/grease/shrink wrap it. Make short splices, flow solder as far up to the insulation as you can, quick dab of dielectric and shrink wrap it.

Has she been acting like a cold-starting bi...ke?
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll start looking at the wires this weekend. To answer your question, yes it always starts like its cold.
 
RichnSteph said:
Thanks! I'll start looking at the wires this weekend. To answer your question, yes it always starts like its cold.
Click to expand...

I resolved the "cold start" on mine by doing extra grounding of the igniter discussed on the "MORE POWER" thread on COG forum. That extra grounding seems to make it easier to start and runs just a hint hotter. Not bad on this cold-blooded beast. :trust:
 
Well Rich,

I can offer one way to solve your Connie dilemma:lol2: Come take a look at a 02 I am about to put up for sale. This bike has about everything done to it one can do from the Helibars to the Russell seat. Taken care of for the 72K it has traveled. When I get around to installing a new front tire it will be offered.....or as is!

If you or anyone is interested in all the goodies on the bike let me know. And I won't be asking a arm and a leg IMO. Even have a set of Staintune exhausts to offer if new owner wants to add them. BTW...the faster color of SILVER included!

Thanks,
Roger
 
kickstand~prophet said:
Did you ever find the gremlins and get her up and running right?:rider:
Click to expand...


No. It still runs horribly although to be honest I've had zero time to work on it. That coupled with the fact that I have no idea what I'm doing makes it more difficult. A few weeks ago she took a tumble in the yard when the driveway gave out under the stand so she's dirty but not damaged. Then last week the front tire developed a bubble that goes 90% around while I was on the way to work so I limped her home and now she sits in her spot waiting while I figure out how to put the new set of tires I have in the shed on her....... GAHH!!!

This old girl might be fun later on but right now I'm missing my injected Harley something fierce.


I'll hopefully get to her this weekend and get back to riding. I miss the wind in my face.
RichnSteph.
 
RichnSteph said:
No. It still runs horribly although to be honest I've had zero time to work on it. That coupled with the fact that I have no idea what I'm doing makes it more difficult. A few weeks ago she took a tumble in the yard when the driveway gave out under the stand so she's dirty but not damaged. Then last week the front tire developed a bubble that goes 90% around while I was on the way to work so I limped her home and now she sits in her spot waiting while I figure out how to put the new set of tires I have in the shed on her....... GAHH!!!

This old girl might be fun later on but right now I'm missing my injected Harley something fierce.


I'll hopefully get to her this weekend and get back to riding. I miss the wind in my face.
RichnSteph.
Click to expand...

If you cannot figure it out I will see if I can get a hold of the TWT Connie expert and pay you a visit some Sunday. Notice that you are close to Texas Pride BBQ. I bet he might be able to be convinced to head that way for some brisket.:eat:
 
kickstand~prophet said:
If you cannot figure it out I will see if I can get a hold of the TWT Connie expert and pay you a visit some Sunday. Notice that you are close to Texas Pride BBQ. I bet he might be able to be convinced to head that way for some brisket.:eat:
Click to expand...

That would be awesome. I'd for sure take him out to lunch or what have you just for some hands on advice.

Thank you.
 
Been doing some catch up on a few threads on site(haven't been on site for close to a year), Bandit mega thread and this one, as well as the tire tread for the Bandit. Put about 6000 km on the bandit this year before I bought my 2014 Concours. Picked it up on the July 19/14 and have a couple clicks short of 12000km on the clock now. 2nd set of tires on the 14 now, PR 4 GTs on now.
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longhorn2000 said:
Hey that last one is a sharp looking bike!!!! Mine doesn't have a whole lot done to it.

a couple 12v plugs
homemade throttle lock
front fender extender
corbin seat
manual petcock
carb drain tubes
jc whittney top box

and thats about all i can think of right now.
Click to expand...

Get the saddle bag antler mounted yet?
 
Those are not the current tip over bars, they are teh original skip holten bars, made much much better than what murph sells and the mounting system on them is pure genius. A cinch to mount.

By the way, that bike is for sale
 
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