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New Tire Day-Mich PR4's

Joined
Feb 2, 2012
Messages
106
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2
Location
Northridge CA
I decided I got my money's worth on my Michelin PR3's after 16,700 miles! They were just getting to the wear bars both front and back. Still serviceable, but getting twitchy on rain grooves and falling into corners. The front was fairly triangular, and the back was pretty flat in the middle.

I have been very pleased with the Michelin's, so I decided to get another set. The PR4's are being stocked now, and I had a set installed this afternoon. As with any new tire set, the tracking is greatly improved. I only have a few miles on them, and haven't scrubbed them in, but I am looking forward to getting at least as many miles on these as the last pair.

This weekend I will replace the brake pads front and rear with with some EBC HH's. The rear pads are fairly toasted (not to the metal of course), but the fronts only appear to be about half gone. Hoping for some improved braking with the new pads.

Also going to replace the gear position switch since, after several cleanings it is no longer responding to Deoxit electronic cleaner. May try lowering the foot pegs while I'm down there,but I'm a bit leery of the decreased brake and shifter clearance. I'm only a size 9 (43) boot, so maybe it will be ok.

Guess I've decided to keep the Bandit and quit looking at other bikes for a while.

Next up? Suspension? Are front springs a relatively easy DIY? Haven't ever had the forks apart, but I used to do a lot of work on sports cars (Alfa Romeo, MGB, TR3, BMW's etc), so I think I'm reasonably competent with a wrench. Then of course it may be time for a new shock. Just looking to smooth out the ride a bit.

Looks like California Endless Summer will be back this weekend, so it may be time for an actual fun ride instead of just slabbing to and from work on the 405!
 
Fantastic miles on the PR3's. I'm still running 2's to the tune of 12 to 14,000 miles. But, the front develops that 1 inch ridge in the center later or sooner which does let the tire fall into corners rather than a nice easy roll.
I'm sure you will be impressed with the add braking on the fronts with the HH's. I know it opened my eyes to WOW! from the stocks.
Good on reversing the pegs. If you do feel the need to shorten the shift lever, do a search on it. I did a write up with pics on my lopping about an inch off. MM Scotty builds a whole new set up for this also. I think he was the 1st to do the peg rotation.
On the front end. You'll have to unscrew the caps from the adjustment rod and I just used a piece of wire to add to the rod so it would not go away and just slip the springs over it. May as well flush them out and change oil when changing the front tire.
Have fun, not a bad job at all.
 
Next up? Suspension? Are front springs a relatively easy DIY? Haven't ever had the forks apart, but I used to do a lot of work on sports cars (Alfa Romeo, MGB, TR3, BMW's etc), so I think I'm reasonably competent with a wrench. Then of course it may be time for a new shock. Just looking to smooth out the ride a bit.
QUOTE]

Way to pound the miles on those Michelin's! I've been running Pr2's and 3's on a Kawi C-14 for sometime and just put a set of 3's on the Bandit last fall. Let us know how the 4's compare.
Regarding the suspension, I did a quick upgrade last fall. Since I had so little time before winter I opted to just change the front springs to Race Tech 1.1 kg. (regardless of your weight) with 5" cut spacers. To take out some harshness for the dampening I simply connected a longer hose to my mity-vac brake bleeder, pulled the springs out and sucked 8 oz. of the stock 10 wt.oil out of each fork leg (measured) and replaced it with 5wt. Bel-Ray. This worked so well I am just going to leave it. The B-1250 only had 2400 miles on it so the fluid looked like new. I may cut 1/4" off the spacers as my pre-load adjusters are rather high. The only addition may be a fork brace. The shock is fine for now. With ABS I can't fit a Busa shock. Enjoy!
 
It's almost time for a new rear tire for me, and I have been weighing my options between the PR2,3,4. I know this is almost as bad as a "best oil" question but what are your thoughts on the three variations.

I hate to admit it but I ran Stinko's until I had a front tire bubble. A set would last about 3 months. I put my current set of PR2's on last June. Absolutely no idea on mileage. I've been very impressed with the longevity and handling of these tires but always looking for a better deal.
 
I'll probably just stay with the PR2's as long as I can get them. They have done me good through 3 sets and I'm on my 4th. Still cheaper than the 3's or 4's and I don't need any last 10% of traction. ;-) Course, since I can't do the long trips any more, my yearly mileage figures going way down. ;-(
 
I had a PR3 rear for a couple thousand miles before I picked up a nail that coudnlt be fixed.
I still miss that tire (sniffle)
 
The only problem I am having is the rear squaring off since I just mainly commute. I may try the 3 next. I think I'll hold off on the 4 and see what the reviews bring.
 
I found the PR2's to last much longer than PR3's on my '07 1250. I got 10K miles out of the PR2s, but on the PR3's, the front was toast at 7,500 (Squared off due to softer sides wearing away) and the rear hit the wear bars at 9,000. I keep the pressures at 36 / 38. Also, the rear PR3 got very squirmy for the last 1,000 miles or so, even before it hit the wear bars.

I replaced the front with another PR2 (the PR4 wasn't out yet at the time), and just had a PR4 spooned on to the rear.

FWIW
 
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