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Bandit 1250 coolant bleeding procedure

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MetrickMetal said:
Yes, run the engine up to temp with the cap off to allow any trapped air to escape
Click to expand...

But don't start the engine with your cold fluid level too high up the filler spout. Watch it carefully as the engine heats up because the coolant can expand very quickly and overflow all over your valve cover

.... not that I would ever do that of course ;-)

I always wrap some rags round the filler neck just in case
 
Factory manual also states to rock bike side to side to help purge air from system with radiator cap off.
 
Thanks guys! Also I assume the reservoir should be at the "normal" mark once the bike warms up? As right now its not even close...
 
Yogi 1250 said:
But don't start the engine with your cold fluid level too high up the filler spout. Watch it carefully as the engine heats up because the coolant can expand very quickly and overflow all over your valve cover

.... not that I would ever do that of course ;-)

I always wrap some rags round the filler neck just in case
Click to expand...

Ah, yes, Experience is a harsh taskmaster! :giveup:
 
I am planning on doing exactly the same this Saturday.....putting in some work on my '07. Gonna change the oil, oil filter (really wish we had the ones with the hex shape knobbly on the one end here in South Africa for easy removal of the filter but unfortunately we don't) plugs, front brake pads, and possibly coolant too. It all depends on my energetic levels too.

achesley said:
Darn Scott,
After reading these simple instructions, you're gonna make me get energetic enuff to finally change out my coolant after over 4 years and 55K+ miles. Multiply that by 1.05 and you have my actual millage on da Bandit due to speedohealer. ;-) Have a new set of plugs that need to be changed and a brand new air lift table to try out with the Bandit. It's already KLR tested.
Click to expand...
 
MetrickMetal said:
The coolant drain and change procedure actually starts is on page OB-13 and ends on page OB-14 on my factory service manual, and chaning the coolant is very easy to do, as I just did mine again recently when I pulled the radiator off so that I could finally silicone the fan shroud to get rid of the very loud buzzing it made because of how it mounts to the fan bracket.

I highly recommend everyone to purchase a factory service manual if you are planning on doing any kind of work on your bike. :rider:

I also made up a new recovery tank plug out of black Delrin to fix an inherent problem with the stock rubber plug.
IMG_3550.jpg


Here's the procedures for draining, filling and beeding the air from the cooling system.

Draining the coolant
Step 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand

Step 2. Remove the fuel tank.

Step 3. Remove the radiator cap

Step 3. Remove the sprocket cover, then loosen the hose clamp on the water pump inlet hose
(lower large hose), and pull the hose off of the water pump housing and drain engine coolant
into a drain pan.

Step 4. Flush the radiator with fresh water if necessary.

Step 5. Reconnect the water pump inlet hose to the water pump, and tighten the hose clamp.

Step 6. Proceed to filling and bleeding the cooling system



Filling and bleeding air from the cooling system
Step 1. Support the motorcycle upright with the center stand.

Step 2. Place a rag underneath the filler neck inlet, then slowly pour a 50/50 mixture of distilled
water and silicate free engine coolant up to the bottom of the filler neck inlet. Pouring the
coolant in slowly helps to keep from trapping air in the system.

Step 5. Move the bike off of the canter stand, and slowly rock the motorcycle, right and left at least 10
times to help bring any trapped air in the system up to the filler neck inlet, so it can vent out of
the cooling system.

Note: The 10mm hex flange bolt on the the face of the water pump housing cover, is a air bleed vent that
can also be used to help bleed air from the water pump.

Step 6. After bleeding the air out, if the coolant lever has dropped, add more coolant to bring the coolant
level back up to the bottom of the filler neck inlet.

Step 7. Install the gas tank and start the engine up and allow it to come up to temp, so that any air
trapped in the system can expel out the filler neck inlet.

Step 8. Check coolant level again, and if needed add more coolant to bring the coolant level up to the
bottom of the filler neck inlet.

Step 9. Repeat steps 6 and 7 until no air bleeds from the filler neck inlet.

Step 10. Install and tighten the radiator cap securely.

Step 11. After warming up and cooling down the engine several times, check the coolant level in the
recovery tank is at the full mark on the tank with the bike sitting on the side stand, and if
not, add coolant.
Click to expand...

The instructions are incorrect (highlighted red and bold.)

It is the output hose that gets disconnected, not the input hose. Disconnecting the Inlet hose leaves all the old coolant inside the hose leading to the engine.

Just looking at the hoses, it can be easy for someone to think the hose closest to the frame is the hose to disconnect because unless you look closely, the hoses follow the same path below the engine.

It is the hose connected to the lower connection, not the lower hose that gets disconnected. This is why one should always refer to the manual. That the input hose is very easy to disconnect can also lead one to think that its the correct hose.

The output hose is much more difficult of the two hoses to disconnect, it is easier when you remove the retaining clip underneath the engine that hold the input and output hoses close to the engine.

So, how many of you disconnected the input hose instead of the output hose and left all that old coolant inside the output hose?

Flushing the radiator does not flush this old coolant out unless you are draining the output hose. Flushing the radiator with the outlet hose open gets all the old coolant out, at least as much as possible.

From the manual:

"3) Drain engine coolant by disconnecting the water
pump outlet hose (2)."

The other info in this thread says to rock the bike. Nope. You lean it to one side and then the other. Leaning it allows air to escape. When you lean it over, let it stay leaned over just a few moments, don't rock it back and forth (side to side).
 
Last edited:
MetrickMetal said:
The coolant drain and change procedure actually starts is on page OB-13 and ends on page OB-14 on my factory service manual, and chaning the coolant is very easy to do, as I just did mine again recently when I pulled the radiator off so that I could finally silicone the fan shroud to get rid of the very loud buzzing it made because of how it mounts to the fan bracket.

I highly recommend everyone to purchase a factory service manual if you are planning on doing any kind of work on your bike. :rider:

I also made up a new recovery tank plug out of black Delrin to fix an inherent problem with the stock rubber plug.
View attachment 157025

Here's the procedures for draining, filling and beeding the air from the cooling system.

Draining the coolant
Step 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand

Step 2. Remove the fuel tank.

Step 3. Remove the radiator cap

Step 3. Remove the sprocket cover, then loosen the hose clamp on the water pump inlet hose
(lower large hose), and pull the hose off of the water pump housing and drain engine coolant
into a drain pan.

Step 4. Flush the radiator with fresh water if necessary.

Step 5. Reconnect the water pump inlet hose to the water pump, and tighten the hose clamp.

Step 6. Proceed to filling and bleeding the cooling system



Filling and bleeding air from the cooling system
Step 1. Support the motorcycle upright with the center stand.

Step 2. Place a rag underneath the filler neck inlet, then slowly pour a 50/50 mixture of distilled
water and silicate free engine coolant up to the bottom of the filler neck inlet. Pouring the
coolant in slowly helps to keep from trapping air in the system.

Step 5. Move the bike off of the canter stand, and slowly rock the motorcycle, right and left at least 10
times to help bring any trapped air in the system up to the filler neck inlet, so it can vent out of
the cooling system.

Note: The 10mm hex flange bolt on the the face of the water pump housing cover, is a air bleed vent that
can also be used to help bleed air from the water pump.

Step 6. After bleeding the air out, if the coolant lever has dropped, add more coolant to bring the coolant
level back up to the bottom of the filler neck inlet.

Step 7. Install the gas tank and start the engine up and allow it to come up to temp, so that any air
trapped in the system can expel out the filler neck inlet.

Step 8. Check coolant level again, and if needed add more coolant to bring the coolant level up to the
bottom of the filler neck inlet.

Step 9. Repeat steps 6 and 7 until no air bleeds from the filler neck inlet.

Step 10. Install and tighten the radiator cap securely.

Step 11. After warming up and cooling down the engine several times, check the coolant level in the
recovery tank is at the full mark on the tank with the bike sitting on the side stand, and if
not, add coolant.
Click to expand...
I know I am replying to an old thread but wondering if anyone can expound on the comment stating "The 10mm hex flange bolt on the face of the water pump housing cover is a air bleed vent that can also be used to help bleed air from the water pump." I have not been able to find much of any procedural info online as to how to use this bleeder bolt, it's mentioned in the service manual regarding torque tightening but not mentioned in the steps for bleeding air from the coolant system. Just curious if anyone can add some details on how to use the 'water pump air vent bolt'...when in the process to open it, when to close it, etc. Getting air out of this system/removing tank, etc has been a pain (to me at least) and if using this bolt can help I'd love to hear more. Thanks!
 
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