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Suzuki DRZ400S - Carb IDLE Help.

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KP
I know this has been addressed, so I apologize for the redundancy.

My '05 DRZ400S will not Idle. Starts, Runs, etc. Just will not IDLE...

Aside from removing carb and cleaning is there an AIR/IDLE screw that is reachable? I'm googled out :giveup:

Thanks for your wisdom and advice in advance.

KP
 
Assuming it is the stock CV carb, the fuel screw is on the front side of the bowl (side closest to the cylinder) you can really reach it without either a special screwdriver, or rotating the carb so the bottom of it points towards the left side of the bike.

Regardless, if it idled before, and now it doesn't, you're not gonna FIX the problem by adjusting anything. You need to remover it, and give it a thorough cleaning.
 
What thrill Billy said, you have to pull that idle jet and clean it, correct me if I'm wrong, there are two jets, idle and main.
 
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Also, if it will idle with the choke but not without, what it's doing is using the choke circuit as a pilot circuit. (Pilot circuit clogged)

The choke circuit is just like the idle circuit, only more rich.

If it will idle on its own with a TINY bit of throttle, you need to adjust your idle up.

If you'd like to text me, I can walk through a couple things with you. I'm not trying to take away from a helpful thread, I've just got a bunch of ?'s before I can accurately address this.

512-673-2991
 
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from the left side down next to the carb fuel bowl there is a knob, this is the idle adjustment.
it is kind of behind the gas line.

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if it has not been mess with it can be stuck, spraying the right side at the screw part with a good spray lube helps.
 
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Thrill, Marc and Focus, thanks for the replies. I was hoping for some Magic Juice I could wave over the tank:lol2:

Sounds like it's time to start removing odds and ends and get the Carb out...

Pilot jet sounds like it may be the culprit.
Stock Carb
Will IDLE with Choke pulled out (3rd position)
and Rich is an understatement...

I'll be back after a little Sunday morning sweatin'

KP
 
You may be able to just turn the carb by loosening the boots a little to get to the bottom without removing it, lay a towel under to catch stray jets and screws.
 
You may be able to just turn the carb by loosening the boots a little to get to the bottom without removing it, lay a towel under to catch stray jets and screws.
Thanks Marc, I'll try that first...

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, don't let it idle too long with the choke pulled. After a minute or so, your header will get glowing red hot.
 
What happens if you just speed up the idle a bit with the idle speed screw. Mine had a jet kit but it seemed to need idle speed adjusting based on the ambient temp and bike temp almost every ride. Also a mikuni carb
 
That's getting away from the idea of what the idle setting/ fuel screw balance needs to be, since his bike ran correctly before it sat up.

The idea is to have the smallest throttle opening that produces the highest RPM possible. Those are two dynamic variables, but if set properly, it creates the highest vacuum signature on the carb. This scenario combats the off-idle big we all know and hate.

On a properly tuned bike, even a CV carb can function with almost no noticeable (by most) bog.

Ask PhilipBarrett about his CV carbed, one kick, no bog XR400. ;-)
 
Dont waste your time with half measures, it will only end up taking twice as long as you redo the job.

Remove the carb, remove all jets, best bet is to toss in a new pilot jet but you either pay a premium to get just one at the dealer , or a bit less but you have to buy a package of them, and or pay shipping..

Carb will need to be cleaned.. DO NOT IMMERSE in carb cleaner... Motorcraft "carb Tuneup cleaner" is the best I have used other than my sonic tank. fill the passages with cleaner, soak the jets in a small cup. Let soak over night, blow out with compressed air. DO NOT POKE the brass jets with random objects...If you have a jet cleaner that works if done carefully..
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But jets are easy to damage... so careful.

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