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Tomorrow, after breaky, we can run over to my place and you can look at how I anchored and placed my chocks.

Basically, I wanted a little room up front to secure totes or other storage containers.
so I moved the first one off the rail a bit. The second one I staggered back.

Measure to allow a BMW cylinder to easily clear the side rail.
I also offset the chocks to account for the handle bars/hand guards. Bike #2 bars/guards are behind the gas cap.

A 3rd bike can be backed into place between the two if all three are dirt bikes.

I anchored the chocks with 5/16" carriage bolts and big fender washers.
 
What's the best way to attach the second one to a trailer? I was think just butt it up against the front the trailer and drive some deep wood screws into the various mounting holes? Or something more than that?

Wondering I can get two of them safely on a 76" wide trailer in case someone else wants to throw their bike on there in the future.

Pay attention to how far apart you put the chocks to avoid interference between the 2 bikes. It may be a good idea to stagger them, but plan ahead for tie down points. I put 2 chocks on a single jet ski trailer, and have issues if the handlebars of both bikes are the same height. The trailer is only about 38 inches wide though if I remember correctly.
 
What's the best way to attach the second one to a trailer? I was think just butt it up against the front the trailer and drive some deep wood screws into the various mounting holes? Or something more than that?

Wondering I can get two of them safely on a 76" wide trailer in case someone else wants to throw their bike on there in the future.

Might want to install a 3rd one in the center if you are going to do that. Not a good idea to have 1 bike only on one side of the trailer.

Or at least have a quick way to relocate one of them to the center.
 
That's another good thing about the second version, it's free standing. You can move it anywhere on the trailer you need it. Block it off, strap the bike down, you're done. If it's up against the front rail, you don't even need to block it off. All you're trying to do is keep the front tire pointed straight so the straps stay tight.
For that matter, you could just block in the front tire with 2x4's and accomplish the same thing. Or tie the front wheel to the trailer rail.
 
I assume that means screwing blocks of 2x4 on the deck to position the chock, so it cannot move laterally, or fore and aft for that matter. Once you mount the front wheel on it and tie down the bike, there is no need to physically bolt the chock itself down to the deck.

That works if you have somewhere in your vehicle to store the chock if not in use. It's pretty large and bulky.
 
What's the best way to attach the second one to a trailer? I was think just butt it up against the front the trailer and drive some deep wood screws into the various mounting holes? Or something more than that?

Wondering I can get two of them safely on a 76" wide trailer in case someone else wants to throw their bike on there in the future.

Is your deck made of 2x lumber? if so, 3" exterior drywall screws will work just fine. Galvanized lag screws will work too and easily available at HD or Lowes. If it's plywood deck, then bolts, washers and lock nuts might be more secure.

Don't actually need anything heavy duty, since the fasteners are just there to keep the chock from moving. The straps are really what locks your bike down to the trailer.
 
Anyone with a common drill motor can remove wood screws.
Poof ... chock is gone.

Also, like on a wooden deck, as the lumber dries, it'll warp and the screws rust and eventually break.
 
If somebody wanted a half rusted wheel chock that bad, they can have it. Last one I bought with a 25% coupon at Harborfright was some $25 IIRC.

Exterior drywall screws will outlast the chock, the lumber, and probably the trailer. I've got some on my fence that's probably 15yrs old and will last another 30yrs.
 
SOunds like you know best.
 
Here's a shot of my Goldwing on trailer / chock setup attached to trailer with U-bolts @ front & bolted to floor using pre-drilled 12" x 2" steel plates from tractor supply with bolts going in-between the board gaps
- used wingnuts on all bolts - no holes drilled in trailer & can be removed without tools when chock not needed.
 

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open trailers are well and good,but a cargo trailer(enclosed)with a ramp and a side door can be easily converted into a motorcycle hauling sleeper. the bike and equipment are out of sight,out of the weather and locked up. most have a top vent that can be removed and an rv air conditioner substituted.
I have built two and my current one is a 12x6. It has a window unit AC in front,a sink,fold down bed,microwave,tv,dvd player and most important,a coffee pot. It is also insulated with 1 inch foam panels between the studs.
the wife doesn't really care for it cause she has no place to pee. I just open the door.
The nights spent in a pool of sweat or freezing in a tent on the ground are over.
 
I wondered about that. I assume 9 times out of 10, my bike will be solo on there.

Truthfully, I wouldn't worry too much about a bike being on one side of the trailer. You are looking at 500lbs offset by 30% to one side or the other and still well withing the center of gravity of the trailer. Not to mention that for longer hauls when I pull one bike, all my crap usually goes where the other bike would sit anyway.

If it were me I would worry more about mounting chocks solidly to the trailer and creating some purpose made tie down points so you know your bike will be secure when going down the road.
 
Here's a shot of my Goldwing on trailer / chock setup attached to trailer with U-bolts @ front & bolted to floor using pre-drilled 12" x 2" steel plates from tractor supply with bolts going in-between the board gaps

- used wingnuts on all bolts - no holes drilled in trailer & can be removed without tools when chock not needed.



Wow completely upside down and still secure to the trailer!!!
 
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