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The DR/DRZ Thread

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Plane Dr said:
We rode out to Cleveland National Forest from Spring Valley. Up and own some mountains in and around Pine Valley. Some was in the OHV area and another bit was an area that showed as a road but certainly wasn't.

I miss mountains. :-(
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Did it look and sound like Corral Canyon?

[ame="http://youtu.be/SLWLxKbi5F0"]Corral Canyon - YouTube[/ame]
 
For any of you contemplating it, 600+ miles in a day is a looong way.
 
I just rode from Harrison Ark. to Bryan Tx. Report in Story telling.
 
The area was primarily around Pine Valley and the "commute" was Lyons road. I was too busy turning (unlike TX) to see where I was.

I did San Diego to Dallas in 19 hours nonstop aside from fuel and water breaks. 1360 miles. That was in the car that hauled the DRZ to SD though. The DRZ was left behind for next trip.
 
Anyone know anything about the change in the Texas inspection/registration policy? I need new registration in July and the inspection is going to expire. Now the DRZ is in Cali I can't get it inspected......:eek2:

I didn't worry about it as they weren't linked before. :giveup:
 
Sold my CBR and got an '09 DRZ . She runs sooo much better than my old '01 DRZ


2314E0DB-B6A0-4DC2-ABBB-9F22A82E690F.jpg
 
Inspection has to be done no more than 90 days before you register it. No inspection, can't register.
 
Plane Dr said:
I had the DRZ out in the mountains in San Diego this weekend. I remember why I love it so much. Hopefully I can get out there for quite a few more rides this year.

We did 130 miles. 45 each way of awesomely wonderful corners. Another 40 up and down the sides of mountains. It was awesome to get out there and rip around with a bunch of bikes that had to get trailered in.

:sun:
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We were out there in March. I took my wife up Palomar Mtn and immediately knew why it's such an attraction for motorcycles. Nothing like it here in TX. We drove so didn't get to enjoy it as much as we could have. Went through Julian too. Weather was perfect.
 
This may have been covered already, so sorry if this has been hashed out.

I'd like to buy a DRZ for riding things like the TAT. I see a lot of super motos come up. One just hit here on Twtex this morning. It's a super moto w a set of dirt tires.

Will a super moto do ok in dirt if you just switch out to dirt tires? Or are there other considerations?

I spend a lot of time commuting back and forth to work, so this may be a good solution. But would rather have a dirt set up that is mediocre on the road that visa versa.

Thanks in advance for the input.
 
If you found an older E model, that's gonna be your best bet. They have the slant body FCR carb, and bigger header pipe.

The SM model has USD forks valved for street riding. They're a bit stiffer. USD forks are superior to conventional in every regard. Especially off road.

Its a straight up swap. The front and rear brake rotors on the SM models are bigger, but will bolt right onto E and S model hubs eliminating the need for caliper relocation.

Also, something to consider is the speedo drive. I can't remember itmf the gear reduction is in the drive part in the front hub, or in the speedo itself, but keep in mind the speedo may be off
 
Hey, I just looked at the ad-

The bike isn't a "supermoto", or DRZ400SM, BUT a DRZ400E, with a set of supermoto wheels and tires to go with it. Disregard my previous post, this bike is good to go!

The E model is certainly the most robust, and to me feels lime a completely different bike from the stock sm and s models.

I used to own a 400e and had sumo tires for it. Awesome bike, wish I still had it.

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MotoTex said:
+1

Still riding the 2000 DRZ400E I purchased new, fifteen years ago.
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That's the way I am with my 01 S. Although I'm not sure at what point it is a "different" bike with all the mods I've done.

With airplanes as long as you have the data plate that is considered the airplane. So I guess it's the same bike.
 
bucho1999 said:
This may have been covered already, so sorry if this has been hashed out.

I'd like to buy a DRZ for riding things like the TAT. I see a lot of super motos come up. One just hit here on Twtex this morning. It's a super moto w a set of dirt tires.

Will a super moto do ok in dirt if you just switch out to dirt tires? Or are there other considerations?

I spend a lot of time commuting back and forth to work, so this may be a good solution. But would rather have a dirt set up that is mediocre on the road that visa versa.

Thanks in advance for the input.
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I've ridden my SM model on lots of jeep roads in Arkansas, Colorado and Utah. Is it as good as a dirt bike? No. Is it a better commuter bike than a dirt bike would be? Yes. Here's a link to one of my rides in Colorado. One SM and one S. http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62402
 
DRZ SM just past the big lookout half way up the right side. Awesome fun bike to have there.

And a video of my other DRZ SM with GP110 90/10 street/dirt tires. Very capable bike off road. Beats my KLR in every aspect except for comfort and distance.

[ame="https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-DN_E9v2mzc#"]Mud Cave to Diablo Drop off full - YouTube[/ame]
 

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Trying to post a video for the first time. If this works, this is me on my DRZ400SM on the first part of the Alpine loop, just south of Ouray.

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All carb wizards please report to the courtesy phone

My 03 drz400e with FCR 39 carb is giving me some difficulty. It contains stock jets (165 starter, 145 pilot) except for DJ stage 2 kit 136 main, stock needle 4 from top, fuel screw about 2-1/4 turns and the UNI air filter. I had the stock pipe on and it was fine with some minor bog at wot. I had wired the acc pump according to eddie's mod which eased the bog, but didnt make it disappear. With that said, I have never been real happy with the surge/ lug at higher RPM range especially when trying to ride highway for any length of time. Anyway, I recently picked up a used full yoshi rs3 pipe and decided to address all carb issues as I figured it would need a rejet anyway.

SO, after some creative language getting the yoshi header and midpipe to line up, I decided to ride and see what happened. Results were alot louder as expected and worse surging issue while cruising especially around 5000 rpm and higher. At lower rpm and as long as accelerating all is well. Trail riding wasnt an issue, just twitchy at higher rpm cruising.

I removed and cleaned carb, broke out the dj kit remnants and instructions and swapped the dj kit main jet for the 140 and moved the clip to position 5 as instructed. Seems a little better but not much. I checked the float height and is within spec: 9MM. Of note, the spark plug was pretty greasy and black (rich) so I replaced with new at this time.

I decided to remove the ACC pump and found the diaphragm shot to heck, so a new rebuild for that is in order. This might effect the bog, but I am not sure that recent aggressive carb cleaner application did not just damage it. Anyone understand this carb enough to know where else to go with this?

Could the diaphragm damage cause the surge I am experiencing? I suppose there could have been trash from the diaphragm floating around in the circuits causing problems somewhere, but all jets and crud build up seemed minimal, and all circuits seemed to pass air fine.

Anyway, I am ordering parts ( acc pump diaphragm and orings, needle valve carb basic kit) and thought I would post up before jic anyone recommends other parts I havent considered. I have gone down most rabbit holes on thumper and just trying to fully understand how this thing works.

All help appreciated, thanks.
 
Re: All carb wizards please report to the courtesy phone

Hellwig said:
My 03 drz400e with FCR 39 carb is giving me some difficulty. It contains stock jets (165 starter, 145 pilot) except for DJ stage 2 kit 136 main, stock needle 4 from top, fuel screw about 2-1/4 turns and the UNI air filter. I had the stock pipe on and it was fine with some minor bog at wot. I had wired the acc pump according to eddie's mod which eased the bog, but didnt make it disappear. With that said, I have never been real happy with the surge/ lug at higher RPM range especially when trying to ride highway for any length of time. Anyway, I recently picked up a used full yoshi rs3 pipe and decided to address all carb issues as I figured it would need a rejet anyway.

SO, after some creative language getting the yoshi header and midpipe to line up, I decided to ride and see what happened. Results were alot louder as expected and worse surging issue while cruising especially around 5000 rpm and higher. At lower rpm and as long as accelerating all is well. Trail riding wasnt an issue, just twitchy at higher rpm cruising.

I removed and cleaned carb, broke out the dj kit remnants and instructions and swapped the dj kit main jet for the 140 and moved the clip to position 5 as instructed. Seems a little better but not much. I checked the float height and is within spec: 9MM. Of note, the spark plug was pretty greasy and black (rich) so I replaced with new at this time.

I decided to remove the ACC pump and found the diaphragm shot to heck, so a new rebuild for that is in order. This might effect the bog, but I am not sure that recent aggressive carb cleaner application did not just damage it. Anyone understand this carb enough to know where else to go with this?

Could the diaphragm damage cause the surge I am experiencing? I suppose there could have been trash from the diaphragm floating around in the circuits causing problems somewhere, but all jets and crud build up seemed minimal, and all circuits seemed to pass air fine.

Anyway, I am ordering parts ( acc pump diaphragm and orings, needle valve carb basic kit) and thought I would post up before jic anyone recommends other parts I havent considered. I have gone down most rabbit holes on thumper and just trying to fully understand how this thing works.

All help appreciated, thanks.
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Normally when the AP pump diaphragm is messed up, it causes poor acceleration. That was my experience with this exact same set up at least.

So, if your AP is shot, but it still accelerates smoothly, its time to figure out why, because it dang sure shouldn't be.

First fix the pump, THEN try to tune. All tuning to this point is erroneous.

I had E model header, and gutted exhaust, so as far as flow, pretty much what you've got with the Yosh.

145main
Stock E model fcr needle
Middle clip
65 starter
45 pilot

I think most people remove the pilot air jet, but that's in the fcr MX carb, I had the stock slant body fcr in mine.

Your jetting sounds lean (main)
 
It sounds lean still to me also.

Try this while you're waiting on parts to repair your carb. Ride in 4th or 5th gear, steady cruise at near WOT. Then abruptly chop throttle back to 3/4 open. Does bike get a slight burst and accelerate for a second or two or does it cause a blubbery slight bog? Have used this method before for a seat of the pants lean or rich check of the main jet. bog=rich, burst=lean

_
 
thanks for the replies. carb is off the bike in pieces so I cannot check the last post unless you think I should do it with the ac pump disabled. Like I said about the AP diaph, I think I may have just finished it off the first time I tookthe carb off.

SB: Mike thought it sounded rich which would be why my plug looked near fouled, although starting wasn't terrible. Anyway he told me to see if easing the choke out while surging changed anything and all it did was want to make it die, with any choke movement.
I know the jet number sounds lean to me too, most thumpertalk recommendations I have read indicated a 160 main (richer), but I think the DJ jet numbers are different than keihin and JD jets, so I dunno how they compare. Thumper mods indicate changing pilot jets etc, however the Dynojet kit claims their jets are different number to size compared and somehow designed to work without pilot change as this is the idle circuit and if idle is adjusted correctly with the fuel screw, you will not need to change the pilot. False science? I dunno either. Maybe I should just order jets as well just in case?
 
Hellwig said:
thanks for the replies. carb is off the bike in pieces so I cannot check the last post unless you think I should do it with the ac pump disabled. Like I said about the AP diaph, I think I may have just finished it off the first time I tookthe carb off.

SB: Mike thought it sounded rich which would be why my plug looked near fouled, although starting wasn't terrible. Anyway he told me to see if easing the choke out while surging changed anything and all it did was want to make it die, with any choke movement.
I know the jet number sounds lean to me too, most thumpertalk recommendations I have read indicated a 160 main (richer), but I think the DJ jet numbers are different than keihin and JD jets, so I dunno how they compare. Thumper mods indicate changing pilot jets etc, however the Dynojet kit claims their jets are different number to size compared and somehow designed to work without pilot change as this is the idle circuit and if idle is adjusted correctly with the fuel screw, you will not need to change the pilot. False science? I dunno either. Maybe I should just order jets as well just in case?
Click to expand...


I've never used the DJ or JD stuff. I know one uses keihin jets, but when you start getting into all that "ohh try the blue needle" crap, that's when I check out.

Idk man, if it were me, I'd sell whatever "kit" you've got, and get a new AP diaphragm, and the jets I listed. Also check your pilot and choke jets. They should be 45/65 which you listed 165/145? Typo/mix up I'm sure, but check anyways. ;-)
 
Point taken, it came with the bike and what I had lying around, think I will replace the usual wear items in the carb as well as rebuild the ap, new jets. Yes typo, the jets are keihin stock 65/45. Thanks for the input
 
I just finished my second trip for dirt riding on my new to me DRZ400e 2001. Love this bike. I look forward to catching up on this thread.

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